Help with ordering double glazed windows - what features/specs etc ?

long_b

Just about to get our old wooden-framed windows replaced by double glazing.

Does anyone have any pointers on what specs I should ask for ?
Or what fiddly bits I might need to add ?

There's a lot of condesation on the existing windows of a morning - should I order a trickle vent on the new windows ?

What about locking mechanisms ? We've got young-uns so don't want them to be able to let themselves out through the windows too easy !

long_b

From a different post, there's some good stuff in this document

http://www.seai.ie/Publications/Your_Home_Publications/A_Detailed_Guide_to_Insulating_Your_Home.pdf

martinn123

long_b wrote: »

Just about to get our old wooden-framed windows replaced by double glazing.

Does anyone have any pointers on what specs I should ask for ?
Or what fiddly bits I might need to add ?

There's a lot of condesation on the existing windows of a morning - should I order a trickle vent on the new windows ?

What about locking mechanisms ? We've got young-uns so don't want them to be able to let themselves out through the windows too easy !

First, get a number of quotes to compare prices.

Insist on Internally Beaded frames, i.e the glass is fitted from the inside, if the beads are External, the glass can be removed from the outside, to gain access to your house.

Get the best insulated glass you can afford, I suggest Low E Argon filled units with a U Value of 1.1 or thereabouts. U value measures the insulation, the lower the number the better the glass.

You will need Toughened glass in doors, or any window which is below waist level.

Condensation, is usually caused by water/ steam, which is generated within the home, coming into contact with a cold surface, so is the kitchen well ventilated, steam from cooking, showers, baths,etc, well ventilated.
Trickle vents will help if the room has no other ventilation, otherwise, a night vent on the window will be enough.

Fiddly Bits,,,, to stop the children opening a window and escaping, get a restrictor fitted to all upstairs windows.
Easy clean hinges will allow you to clean upstairs windows, without a ladder.
Fire escape hinges on all bedrooms, allows the window to open past 90 deg, for escape in a fire.
Handels, no key locking in bedrooms, as you may not get out if key not in lock, I have seen luminous handels in bedrooms which help you find the window in smoke.

Hope this helps

long_b

That's mighty, thanks very much !

RKQ

martinn123 wrote: »

Fiddly Bits,,,, to stop the children opening a window and escaping, get a restrictor fitted to all upstairs windows.
Easy clean hinges will allow you to clean upstairs windows, without a ladder.
Fire escape hinges on all bedrooms, allows the window to open past 90 deg, for escape in a fire.
Handels, no key locking in bedrooms, as you may not get out if key not in lock, I have seen luminous handels in bedrooms which help you find the window in smoke.

All very good advice above. Also make sure the new bedroom opes are big enough for you to escape out of, in the event of a fire!
Tilt & turn windows on the ground floor are handy, as they can be securely locked slightly open for ventilation in summer. Easy to clean also.
Get at least 3 written quotes.

Al Capwned

Ten years since i worked in trade, but here goes...

Fire escape windows must have a clear opening of 550mm x 850mm at least. Toughened glass must be used in all units that have any part of it below 1100mm (i think) from finished floor level and in all doors

Compare window profiles - 70mm (thickness) means bigger steel reinforcement, means a stronger window - Also means a 28mm glass unit, which if properly filled can act as a slightly thicker insulation layer.

Also ask about 'internally beaded / glazed' - in this the strip holding the glass in is on the inside of the window as opposed to the outside, thereby increasing security.

Ask for multi-point 'shootbolt' or similar locking systems on windows.

Ensure door panel is reinforced.

I would also make sure frame is to be fully welded - no mechanical joints.

Cosmetically, ask for the spacer bar in the glass unit to be matched to the colour of the window / handles - ie silver for white windows with white handles, or gold for brown / black windows that have gold handles..

U-value very important - so get details on this on all quotes.

Finally get references!!! - Make sure frames are measured correctly, and ask to see previous work - as the best windows in the world can look like ****e if not fitted / measured / re-plastered correctly.

Good luck,
Al....

long_b

Thanks for the great advice folks.

We've just about settled on a supplier, nearly everything checks out specs wise (4/16/4, Argon filled, Ug1.1) the only thing is they're externally beaded ("with clips").

How big a deal is the beading ? We're in a semi-rurual environment so *touchwood* looting is rare enough.

Thoughts ?

martinn123

The industry standard is pretty much Internal, however there are still some fabricators who supply external, hope it's not M.J. who you have chosen.
If so search for a thread in this forum, and you will get a lot of feedback, on maintenance problems.

What other features did you pick as ''fiddly bits''

long_b

I've read so much about the external now that I wouldn't be happy with it - including some very definite advice from the local Gardaí.

Fortunately the supplier has said they can re-quote for internally beaded.

It's not M. J., it's W.W.

The vents will be "hit and miss" which seems to be like an adjustable version of the trickle lad.

No other fiddly bits really.

martinn123

Don't forget the restrictors, on upstairs windows, to stop the small ones, escaping, not everyone fits them as stardard.

long_b

martinn123 wrote: »

Don't forget the restrictors, on upstairs windows, to stop the small ones, escaping, not everyone fits them as stardard.

Fortunately we're not cursed with stairs in our house

kbfdirect

Can you please pm me your supplier w.w.as i am looking around for windows . Thanks in advance

dadon70

Hi all,

looking for some advice please. In the middle of building our new home,
and have been meeting with a few window companies. We have large long windows in two rooms on the ground floor, and one of the rooms is a bedroom.

One of the window companies said we would need to split the windows to ensure the opening part of the window was above 800mm and complied with fire escape regulations. (The lower part of the window would not open following his suggestion).

We would prefer to stick to a single frame window as we were hoping to have the effect of one large window. Does the regulation of the opening section of windows being above 800mm apply on the ground floor? The bedroom exits in to the main entrance hall, right next to the front door.

The other window company did not mention this, and our engineer has said we would not need to split the window, but we want to be sure we build within regulations.

Sorry for rambling a bit and thanks for any help offered!

Al Capwned

This should give you all you need......

a) The window should have an openable section
which can provide an unobstructed clear open
area of at least 0.33 m2 with a minimum width
and height of 450 mm (the route through the
window may be at an angle rather than straight
through). The opening section should be capable
of remaining in the position which provides this
minimum clear open area.

(b) The bottom of the window opening should be
not more than 1100 mm and not less than 800
mm (600 mm in the case of a rooflight) above the
floor, immediately inside or beneath the window
or rooflight. As an exception to the general
guidance in TGD K (Stairways, Ladders, Ramps
and Guards) that guarding be provided for any
window, the cill of which is less than 800 mm in
height above floor level, guarding should not be
provided to a rooflight opening provided in
compliance with this paragraph.

(c) In the case of a dormer window or rooflight, the
distance from the eaves to the bottom of the
opening section of the rooflight, or, where the
window is vertical, the vertical plane of the
window, should not exceed 1.7 m measured
along the slope of the roof.

(d) The area beneath the window externally should
be such as to make escape or rescue practicable.
For example,
(i) where there is a clear drop from a window in
an upper storey or attic conversion, the
ground beneath the window should be
suitable for supporting a ladder safely and be
accessible for rescue by the fire services or
others.
(ii) Where there is a roof, balcony or canopy
below a window, it should be structurally
adequate to support those using the window
for escape or rescue.

(e) The opening section of the window should be
secured by means of fastenings which are readily
openable from the inside and should be fitted
with safety restrictors. Safety restrictors can be
either an integral part of the window operating
gear or separate items of hardware which can be
fitted to a window at the time of manufacture or
at installation. Restrictors should operate so that
they limit the initial movement of an opening
section to not more than 100 mm. Lockable
handles or restrictors, which can only be
released by removable keys or other tools,
should not be fitted to window opening sections...