The Hamster Clinic (or the Repair Advice Thread)

zerohamster

Hi Trev,

After the clean is it still giving you focus errors.
If so it could be the zoom and/or focus brush that could be causing the fault if it wasn't just dirty contacts.

If you want to PM me I could take a look at it for you?

Trigger76 wrote: »

Make: Canon

Item: Lens

Model: 24mm-105mm F4.0 L

Fault: Hunting for Focus also intermittent error "clean lens contacts" which seems to have gone away after a little wipe.

When/how it happened: No obvious knock or fall that, been in my bag and has always been well looked after. Only happened recently , checked body with other lenses to reckon its def the lens.

Any advice /service offered appreciated.
Thanks
Trev

SetOverSet

Make: Panasonic

Item: Compact Camera

Model: DMC-LX5

Fault: System Error (Focus)

Error Code: FOCUS H
18800802 HP Low detect error
Focus encoder always detects low, and not becomes High

Problematic Part/Circuit: LENS FPC/DSP


When/how it happened: Recently upgraded firmware to 2.0. Took a hundred or so shots the other night & turned camera off. When I turned the camera back on, appears to start normally but then lens barrel locks up extended + above error on LCD. Camera's well over 1 year old, well used & has taken a few small knocks but none lately... any advice appreciated. Thanks.

EyeCake

Make: Canon

Item: SLR

Model: T90

Fault: 1 of the carrying strap eyelets is broken

When/how it happened: This happened some years ago and have been using Digital since but was thinking I should try and fix if not too expensive as it is a great classic camera and also have 50mm 1.4 lens but I wonder if part is available
Thanks
Paul

St3ph3n

Make: Canon

Item: DSLR Body
Model: 550D
Fault: The L.E.D display seems to be completely shot. At first it started to flicker and distort the menu or pictures. Now it doesn't display anything except for bars of random colour.

When/how it happened: Started randomly about 3 months after getting the camera.

Necronomicon

Make: Canon

Item: Lens

Model: 17-85 USM

Fault: Err 01 message

How/when it happened: A couple of months ago I started to notice the Err 01 message. It wasn't constant, and I kept using the lens for a while after and it only appeared occasionally. I upgraded to a new lens, and have left the 17-85 in a corner since. I just took it out for the first time since January, fired off 40-50 shots, and not one of them returned with the error message. Though the aperture was at its widest (4-5.6); I forgot to test it at narrower apertures.

Now I'd like to sell it, so I want prospective buyers to know how much it would be to have it repaired. Any ideas about how much it would be to repair? I'm trying to figure out a fair selling price.

zerohamster

SetOverSet wrote: »

Make: Panasonic

Item: Compact Camera

Model: DMC-LX5

Fault: System Error (Focus)

Error Code: FOCUS H
18800802 HP Low detect error
Focus encoder always detects low, and not becomes High

Problematic Part/Circuit: LENS FPC/DSP


When/how it happened: Recently upgraded firmware to 2.0. Took a hundred or so shots the other night & turned camera off. When I turned the camera back on, appears to start normally but then lens barrel locks up extended + above error on LCD. Camera's well over 1 year old, well used & has taken a few small knocks but none lately... any advice appreciated. Thanks.

Sounds like it just needs a new Lens assembly/ if the part is available, the focus encoder.
Alternatively it could just be damamged or dirty perhaps and malfunctioning.
PM me for more details if you'd like.

zerohamster

EyeCake wrote: »

Make: Canon

Item: SLR

Model: T90

Fault: 1 of the carrying strap eyelets is broken

When/how it happened: This happened some years ago and have been using Digital since but was thinking I should try and fix if not too expensive as it is a great classic camera and also have 50mm 1.4 lens but I wonder if part is available
Thanks
Paul

Hi Paul could you provide a picture of the said damaged/missing part area and Ill see if I can find the parts as they are available usually for the more common faults on the T90. If you want to PM me for an email address for the picture that would probably be easier.

zerohamster

St3ph3n wrote: »

Make: Canon

Item: DSLR Body
Model: 550D
Fault: The L.E.D display seems to be completely shot. At first it started to flicker and distort the menu or pictures. Now it doesn't display anything except for bars of random colour.

When/how it happened: Started randomly about 3 months after getting the camera.

I would be happy to have a look for you and if the rest of the camera functions then it most likely is just the LCD display or LCD FPC at fault and needing replacement.
PM me for more details?

zerohamster

Necronomicon wrote: »

Make: Canon

Item: Lens

Model: 17-85 USM

Fault: Err 01 message

How/when it happened: A couple of months ago I started to notice the Err 01 message. It wasn't constant, and I kept using the lens for a while after and it only appeared occasionally. I upgraded to a new lens, and have left the 17-85 in a corner since. I just took it out for the first time since January, fired off 40-50 shots, and not one of them returned with the error message. Though the aperture was at its widest (4-5.6); I forgot to test it at narrower apertures.

Now I'd like to sell it, so I want prospective buyers to know how much it would be to have it repaired. Any ideas about how much it would be to repair? I'm trying to figure out a fair selling price.

Hi, I will PM you the details of the cost so you can get a better idea. If it is the diaphragm fault I expect it is then the lens will function wide open at any focal length but if at the 17-24/35mm side anything more and it will give a fault.
You can easily confirm this by just changing the aperture value at 17mm and pressing the DOF button, repeat through the range and you will see it probably doesn't function until either 24-35mm and will start to vibrate as you go further before fully functioning.

magicbastarder

i just bought an olympus OM1n and it's missing one of the small screws which holds the baseplate on, and the motor drive socket cap; no immediate problem, but are those sort of parts easy to come by?
the shutter speed dial is a bit stiff, but that's not something i'd try to rectify myself.

zerohamster

magicbastarder wrote: »

i just bought an olympus OM1n and it's missing one of the small screws which holds the baseplate on, and the motor drive socket cap; no immediate problem, but are those sort of parts easy to come by?
the shutter speed dial is a bit stiff, but that's not something i'd try to rectify myself.

Hi,

I'll have a look and see what I can find, I think I have some screws that would fit the bottom plate from an OM10 and I'll see if I can find one of the socket caps for you.
I'd be happy to have a look as a stiff dial won't be anything major.
Does the camera function as it should?

magicbastarder

pretty much; i haven't had a chance to run a film through. the seller said the seals were good in it, but they look tired.

magicbastarder

i may give you a shout about this in a week or two - very busy with other stuff at the moment, but it'd also include the 50mm 1.4 that i mentioned had developed a spot or two of fungus.

MobyDick

Make: Canon

Item: Lens

Model: 24-105L

Fault: The usual aperture diaphragm error.

zerohamster

MobyDick wrote: »

Make: Canon

Item: Lens

Model: 24-105L

Fault: The usual aperture diaphragm error.

I would be happy to have a lok at it for you? Pm me if so.

David60d

Make: Canon
Model: 17-85 Lens
Fault: Error 01

Error 01 on screen from 17 to around 35, working ok above that,

zerohamster

David60d wrote: »

Make: Canon
Model: 17-85 Lens
Fault: Error 01

Error 01 on screen from 17 to around 35, working ok above that,

That sounds like the standard diaphragm failure.
Try setting the aperture value higher than wide open and press the DOF button, if the diaphragm doesn't respond at all (try 17mm first) then it is the diaphragm at fault and needs to be replaced.

This is caused by the diaphragm cable bending over time with change of focal length, eventually it cracks and causes this problem at 17-24/35mm (when the cable is bent the most) and eventually on to full failure at higher focal lengths.

PM me for details if you are interested in repair.

Tearaway

Make: Canon
Model: 580ex ii
Fault: Flash powers up but won't fire - red light is on - LCD works - zoom works. Won't fire manually or on two different cameras.

Thanks

zerohamster

Tearaway wrote: »

Make: Canon
Model: 580ex ii
Fault: Flash powers up but won't fire - red light is on - LCD works - zoom works. Won't fire manually or on two different cameras.

Thanks

Most likely the bulb has burnt out and can be replaced without buying the whole motor and part of the head assembly.

The red light upon start up combined with all other functions working is pretty indicative of the bulb failing.


PM me for more details if you would like.

vidhill

Make: Canon
Model: 40D

Fault:

The shutter release button on my Canon 40D has started acting up, from Googling it seems like it's a common problem

Given the value on a 40D these days spending a lot (I've heard it costs a lot) repairing it would be a bit of false economy..

What are the opinions/options/people to talk to?

I'm based in Cork btw

zerohamster

vidhill wrote: »

Make: Canon
Model: 40D

Fault:

The shutter release button on my Canon 40D has started acting up, from Googling it seems like it's a common problem

Given the value on a 40D these days spending a lot (I've heard it costs a lot) repairing it would be a bit of false economy..

What are the opinions/options/people to talk to?

I'm based in Cork btw

Just to figure out what you mean by acting up, do you mean you have to put more pressure on the button to get the camera to release, it gives errors when you take photos sometimes, the button feels spongey or other?

If the switch requires more pressure, then it is oxidised which is a common problem on the X0D series of DSLRs and is a quick repair.

If the problem is with the switch it wouldn't cost a lot either.

If you want to PM me I do repairs and I can give you more details?

vidhill

The switch requires more pressure.. sometimes I have to release the button and press again.

-half press for focus lock is working as normal

It'd be okay for regular work but for sports when I'm waiting for the right moment it's a disaster..

I have a found a guy based here in Cork who is going to have a look at it for me

zerohamster

vidhill wrote: »

The switch requires more pressure.. sometimes I have to release the button and press again.

-half press for focus lock is working as normal

It'd be okay for regular work but for sports when I'm waiting for the right moment it's a disaster..

I have a found a guy based here in Cork who is going to have a look at it for me

Yes that is the oxidisation I was talking about. It should just need a clean and it will be fine.

Best of luck with the repair.

NakedDex

Make: Nikon

Model: D60

Fault: Pop up flash opens, but doesn't fire.

I'm not sure how it happened, it's been like this for a good while but lack of use let me leave fixing it on the long finger. I suspect it took a minor spill in the bag at some point.

It's not something that's ever bothered me because I only take this body on holidays so I don't have to take my D300S, but I'm giving it to a friend who's starting to get interested in photography so if it can be fixed, it'd be great.

zerohamster

NakedDex wrote: »

Make: Nikon

Model: D60

Fault: Pop up flash opens, but doesn't fire.

I'm not sure how it happened, it's been like this for a good while but lack of use let me leave fixing it on the long finger. I suspect it took a minor spill in the bag at some point.

It's not something that's ever bothered me because I only take this body on holidays so I don't have to take my D300S, but I'm giving it to a friend who's starting to get interested in photography so if it can be fixed, it'd be great.

Hi Dex,

I was talking to you about this before, I believe it is simply the flash pop up switch at fault here.
Basically when the flash head pops up it causes a switch to contact when it is fully up and tells the camera that the flash is in the upright position and therefore can use the pop up flash.
The switch is depressd by a cyclindrical plastic insert on the base of the flash that has either a small nib or ramp that as it rotates to the up position causes the switch to move to the on position.

Sometimes this insert can pop into the inside of the head and the flash won't activate because the camera thinks the flash is still down.

Hope that helps for anyone with D40, D60 and whatever other models this affects.

I'll PM you the message I'd sent you last year.

Tearaway

zerohamster wrote: »

Most likely the bulb has burnt out and can be replaced without buying the whole motor and part of the head assembly.

The red light upon start up combined with all other functions working is pretty indicative of the bulb failing.


PM me for more details if you would like.

Thanks zerohamster - sent you a pm as requested a few days ago - just wondering if you got it.

PopeBuckfastXVI

Make: Bronica

Item: Lens

Model: Zenzanon 50mm f/2.8 MC for ETRS

Fault: When the shutter button is pressed the mirror flips up revealing the shutter fully closed, and the shutter does not open. Have tried this with the back open and varying shutter speeds, including several seconds. The shutter does not reopen until it is cocked again by the wind on crank. The camera works perfectly with my 75mm and the batter indicator light comes on when tested.

When/how it happened: Bought the lens second hand, and hasn't worked since I got it.

Thanks in advance!

zerohamster

PopeBuckfastXVI wrote: »

Make: Bronica

Item: Lens

Model: Zenzanon 50mm f/2.8 MC for ETRS

Fault: When the shutter button is pressed the mirror flips up revealing the shutter fully closed, and the shutter does not open. Have tried this with the back open and varying shutter speeds, including several seconds. The shutter does not reopen until it is cocked again by the wind on crank. The camera works perfectly with my 75mm and the batter indicator light comes on when tested.

When/how it happened: Bought the lens second hand, and hasn't worked since I got it.

Thanks in advance!

Can't say for sure without seeing the lens but I would be happy to have a look if you wanted.
Could be mechaanic or electronic in nature if the release is electronically controlled.

PopeBuckfastXVI

zerohamster wrote: »

Can't say for sure without seeing the lens but I would be happy to have a look if you wanted.
Could be mechaanic or electronic in nature if the release is electronically controlled.

Thanks ZH, where are you based? I can mail you the lens and paypal you money?

chisel

Make: canon

Model: lens 24-105 f4L

Fault:

This is for a friend: took his lens on hols, stopped working. He did a bit of reading etc, and he seems to think it's a fault where some wire/harness becomes disconnected inside. Of course that could be wrong!

He isn't on boards, could you possibly pm/email me your contact details so he could ring/email you?

Thanks

john47

Make: Sigma Flashgun (for Nikon)

Model: EF 530

Fault: Small square black piece of plastic on bottom, under locking wheel broken.

I dropped my camera, flashgun first, luckily camera is fine, including the hot shoe on camera, but flashgun isnt.

Can I get the piece of plastic replaced or do I need to replace the whole bottom section of the flashgun. Is there sauldering needed or is it (only) a job of unscrewing broken part and replacing.

Thanks

John Ryan

zerohamster

john47 wrote: »

Make: Sigma Flashgun (for Nikon)

Model: EF 530

Fault: Small square black piece of plastic on bottom, under locking wheel broken.

I dropped my camera, flashgun first, luckily camera is fine, including the hot shoe on camera, but flashgun isnt.

Can I get the piece of plastic replaced or do I need to replace the whole bottom section of the flashgun. Is there sauldering needed or is it (only) a job of unscrewing broken part and replacing.

Thanks

John Ryan

I don't think it should require soldering if it is just the hot shoe that needs replacing but you have to be careful with the pins and springs so that you don't lose or break any.



If you are looking to do it yourself be careful to not short anything as there is a huge charge stored in the Capicitor that could kill you, otherwise shoot me a PM and I'll give you details.

The part can be bought here:

http://www.ebay.ie/itm/SIGMA-EF-530-DG-SUPER-NIKON-NA-ITTL-HOT-SHOE-FOOT-MOUNT-/330463396853?pt=Camera_Flash_Accessories&hash=item4cf12743f5

john47

Thanks Zero, I think I can manage it but I'll PM you if I chicken out...

John Ryan

zerohamster

john47 wrote: »

Thanks Zero, I think I can manage it but I'll PM you if I chicken out...

John Ryan

No problem,

Good luck with the repair!

aidanic

Have a Canon EOS 30 film 35mm camera. When you insert the batteries, the display, both on top and in the viewfinder light up all the segments.



If you tilt the camera, you can see that the "full on" is actually about 50%, and that the correct LCD segments are lit about 100%.



The full display is lit even in the off position. Need to remove the batteries. The camera does work, exposures are correct. You're just flying blind, so to speak.

The camera came to me this way - not sure what happened. I'm OK with tools, so should be able to fix it, if I can get a pointer or two.

Thanks

Aidan

Top Dog

Make: Canon

Item: DSLR Body

Model: 450D

Fault: Error 99

When/how it happened:

Had borrowed the camera while out with friends, and suspect it may have taken a knock while in standby mode. Didn't realise it at the time, and while taking a series of photos it just stopped and flashed up the Error 99 on the screen. Took battery out, replaced with a fresh one, error still present. Realised later when the photos were downloaded that the last few photos it had taken had huge shadows through them, almost like the shutter hadn't fully opened/closed when capturing the shot.

Since then my wife has tried all the fixes she could find online but to no avail. Given the flat charge for sending it to the UK for a repair, I'm kinda reluctant. The camera is about 4 years old at this stage. The same money could possibly be better spent buying a secondhand replacement or being put towards a newer replacement, so basically I'm looking for somewhere over here to have a look and tell me if it can be fixed and how much it might be.

Started another thread and zerohamster was suggested, so here I am

zerohamster

aidanic wrote: »

Have a Canon EOS 30 film 35mm camera. When you insert the batteries, the display, both on top and in the viewfinder light up all the segments.



If you tilt the camera, you can see that the "full on" is actually about 50%, and that the correct LCD segments are lit about 100%.



The full display is lit even in the off position. Need to remove the batteries. The camera does work, exposures are correct. You're just flying blind, so to speak.

The camera came to me this way - not sure what happened. I'm OK with tools, so should be able to fix it, if I can get a pointer or two.

Thanks

Aidan

I've never come across that happening before actually but it looks like the contrast is messed up on the LCD.

When the camera is in the off position does anything show up 100% on the top LCD bar frame counter and film roll indicator?

I would say it's a bad top LCD but I can't say for sure really.

Ill see if I can find any information or if this is a common fault etc...(or even if there is a way to change the contrast on the LCD as that seems to be the only problem.

zerohamster

Top Dog wrote: »

Make: Canon

Item: DSLR Body

Model: 450D

Fault: Error 99

When/how it happened:

Had borrowed the camera while out with friends, and suspect it may have taken a knock while in standby mode. Didn't realise it at the time, and while taking a series of photos it just stopped and flashed up the Error 99 on the screen. Took battery out, replaced with a fresh one, error still present. Realised later when the photos were downloaded that the last few photos it had taken had huge shadows through them, almost like the shutter hadn't fully opened/closed when capturing the shot.

Since then my wife has tried all the fixes she could find online but to no avail. Given the flat charge for sending it to the UK for a repair, I'm kinda reluctant. The camera is about 4 years old at this stage. The same money could possibly be better spent buying a secondhand replacement or being put towards a newer replacement, so basically I'm looking for somewhere over here to have a look and tell me if it can be fixed and how much it might be.

Started another thread and zerohamster was suggested, so here I am

Luckily (or not) for you I believe the fault wasn't caused by a drop or bang but simply component failure from wear and tear.
From your description of the last few photos with shadows on them it sounds like the shutter has failed and what you are seeing are the blades obstructing the photo.

This can happen for a number of reasons but most likely a part of the shutter failing.

I'd be happy to take a look at it for you or can give you more info in any case if you'd like to send me a PM?

aidanic

Thanks for looking - my own searches bring up this. Will give it a look.

Top Dog

Pm on its way

Top Dog

zerohamster wrote: »

Luckily (or not) for you I believe the fault wasn't caused by a drop or bang but simply component failure from wear and tear.

Well on the plus side - it'd mean it wasn't my fault which would be nice

zerohamster

aidanic wrote: »

Thanks for looking - my own searches bring up this. Will give it a look.

Yeah, if you follow the LCD guide and remove the LCD (clean contacts with isopropyl alcohol) and reinsert. I would use a crosspoint (XPT screwdriver blade) to open the camera as they fit much better than philips and won't strip the screw even on very tight screws that won't budge.

Post back with your results anyway as it may help others.

Good luck!

zerohamster

Top Dog wrote: »

Well on the plus side - it'd mean it wasn't my fault which would be nice

That's true, bullet possibly dodged

aidanic

zerohamster wrote: »

Post back with your results anyway as it may help others.

Got the LCD out, and back in with no problems. No change in the actual problem, and with a battery installed, the display is full on. It could just be the display chip, since the viewfinder display is also full on, or some control circuit related to it. Will give Canon a shout, as I'm not that local to you ZH.

magicbastarder

zh, have you ever worked on olympus OM4Tis?
mine is making a chirping noise when i insert batteries, or if not, when i fire the shutter, it sticks open till i set it back to B. not sure if they're worth fixing if the electronics are shot. which is a pity, they're a nice camera.

Irishwonkafan

Make: Sigma

Item: Lens

Model: 24-70/2.8 EX DG

Fault: Focus ring stuck

When/how it happened: Taking a photograph I noticed it couldn't focus on the foreground. The focus ring was stopping at 5' and had only got the range from 5' - infinity. It wasn't dropped or didn't receive any bangs - just decided to stop. Initially I could get a little more movement if not a little noisy but then the movement stopped. It hasn't been forced. Hope you cna advise on costs to service/repair.

ajncam

Make: Sony

Item: Compact Camera

Model: DSC-TX10

Fault: The catch which holds the flap covering the charging and hdmi port on the side of the camera closed has broken.. pictures make it a little clearer..!








Below is the catch on the battery/sd card flap, which is what the other one should look like!






When/how it happened: It happened in june 2011 and i have just used a bit of duck tape to keep the flap closed ever since but this obviously wont cut the mustard when i go looking to use it underwater later this summer! nothing specific happened as such, it just popped open one day, the piece that broke off is miniscule so can only presume there was a weakness in the plastic and it just gave up.

It appears a simple enough fix and would be confident I could do it myself, getting a replacement part is where I hit a brick wall, hopefully someone here can help me over it!

Thanks in advance,
Andy

Top Dog

Zerohamster - your pm box has reached its limit so can't reply to you.

What I was going to send -

Thats perfectly ok

I'm not in a panic about it - just curious to know what went wrong

Thanks

zerohamster

magicbastarder wrote: »

zh, have you ever worked on olympus OM4Tis?
mine is making a chirping noise when i insert batteries, or if not, when i fire the shutter, it sticks open till i set it back to B. not sure if they're worth fixing if the electronics are shot. which is a pity, they're a nice camera.

Sorry for the overly late reply,
I haven't worked on any OM4Ti models but I have read that depending on what batteries you are using in them it can cause problems as more power is drawn during that part of the shutter/mirror cycle which can cause that behaviour so if you haven't already then try a different type of batteries as that may solve your problem.

Chirping noise can be indicative of the battery being low also so if they are new batteries then check that there is no corrosion on the contacts.

zerohamster

Irishwonkafan wrote: »

Make: Sigma

Item: Lens

Model: 24-70/2.8 EX DG

Fault: Focus ring stuck

When/how it happened: Taking a photograph I noticed it couldn't focus on the foreground. The focus ring was stopping at 5' and had only got the range from 5' - infinity. It wasn't dropped or didn't receive any bangs - just decided to stop. Initially I could get a little more movement if not a little noisy but then the movement stopped. It hasn't been forced. Hope you cna advise on costs to service/repair.

It sounds like something has come loose inside the lens and is jamming movement from that range. If you want to fire me a PM I can give you more details on repair?