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screwing number plate to brick wall

  • 27-08-2011 2:41pm
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 354 ✭✭


    Putting up the number plate in the pic. Would the screws screw into a brick wall or would I need plug and stronger screws. The screws came with it but no plug. Are they meant to be screwed into wood?

    I woul prefer on wall beside door


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,632 ✭✭✭ART6


    The screws certainly won't go direct into brick as they are wood screws. It looks as if the plate is intended to be screwed to a wooden back. However, if you drill the bricks and insert Rawlplugs the screws will do just fine.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 354 ✭✭MapForJ


    ART6 wrote: »
    The screws certainly won't go direct into brick as they are wood screws. It looks as if the plate is intended to be screwed to a wooden back. However, if you drill the bricks and insert Rawlplugs the screws will do just fine.
    Thought so thanks. Drilling to brick is masonry bit is it? how would i know right size?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,632 ✭✭✭ART6


    MapForJ wrote: »
    Thought so thanks. Drilling to brick is masonry bit is it? how would i know right size?

    Yes, you need a masonry bit. First step is to take one of the screws to a DIY shop and try it in some Rawlplugs until you find one that it will just begin to enter with finger pressure (note: not go right into the plug), The Rawlplug pack will be marked with the size of masonry bit you need.


  • Registered Users Posts: 332 ✭✭mick121


    you will prob need a 6mm masonary bit and red plugs.you may need longer screws to grip the wall.your local hardware will know.also make sure holes are well away from the outer edge of the brick as when drilling with hammer action they are prone to cracking the brick if to close to edge.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,876 ✭✭✭Spread


    It may be a good idea to chuck the screws included and buy two non-rust screws. Don't want a rust track after six months.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 365 ✭✭berrypendel


    Hope its not to late to post to this thread

    I have a similar job to do. Not sure if should attempt myself

    This says
    Don't use brick joints as a mounting position.

    is the brick joint the cement between the bricks.? How much would someone charge to fit this?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 879 ✭✭✭woodturner


    Where abouts are you located? It's a 5 minute job which would be done easily. Where you are going to fix the plate use masking tape to mark roughly where the screws are going. It will dampen some of the vibration while starting to drill and reduce the risk of cracking some of the brick away and will also stop the bit from skidding across the face of the brick if it isn't textured.


  • Registered Users Posts: 505 ✭✭✭annieoburns


    I have used tube of No Nails for this job. You would have to tack on light batten under it to keep the sign level while it sets (24 hours). There is one suitable for exterior use.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 365 ✭✭berrypendel


    I have used tube of No Nails for this job. You would have to tack on light batten under it to keep the sign level while it sets (24 hours). There is one suitable for exterior use.
    Thanks did not think of NMN.

    What would you hold the batten on with? It would have to be solid but easy to get off wouldn't it?


  • Registered Users Posts: 505 ✭✭✭annieoburns


    oh I just tacked it on with a couple of panel pins I think? does not have to hold much weight, so tapped in till it made bare contact. No Nails otherwise would just slide off. I have used it to put stuff ontp bathroom tiles and in that case bit of masking tape was enough to support a short bit of wood on which the fixture rested til 'set'.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 365 ✭✭berrypendel


    oh I just tacked it on with a couple of panel pins I think? does not have to hold much weight, so tapped in till it made bare contact. No Nails otherwise would just slide off. I have used it to put stuff ontp bathroom tiles and in that case bit of masking tape was enough to support a short bit of wood on which the fixture rested til 'set'.
    was it an outside job? NMN exterior says water resistant but also water should not ingress where bond is. On an external wall how would this be avoided?


  • Registered Users Posts: 505 ✭✭✭annieoburns


    I have done four house number ceramic tiles and no problem. Two locations are on north facing house walls so out of prevailing rain/wind but other two are and on gate posts.... 10 plus years still there! :) You should apply the No Nail in a continuous line. I dont think there was fancy exterior stuff 10 or so years ago. Of course choose a dry day to do work....


  • Registered Users Posts: 49 zebrano.96


    in jp corry s on tuesday there is a new product for doing fixings like this outside .can t remember full name but has bond at the end cost is 12 euro watched video of product just a few blobs on exterior letter box hold it on the verical and its stuck.very easy to use:) used on concrete blocks as well .


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 365 ✭✭berrypendel


    zebrano.96 wrote: »
    in jp corry s on tuesday there is a new product for doing fixings like this outside .can t remember full name but has bond at the end cost is 12 euro watched video of product just a few blobs on exterior letter box hold it on the verical and its stuck.very easy to use:) used on concrete blocks as well .

    Weldbond?


  • Registered Users Posts: 49 zebrano.96


    yes that sounds like the stuff.


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