Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie

Easiest way to wire up an outdoor socket??

Options
13

Comments

  • Options
    #62
    Bruthal
    Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    indie armada wrote: »
    in this instance the circut is on its own rcbo, so is having dp switches really nesecery as it can be isolated at the board without any disruption to the house and if it was tripping due to fault only that circut would be affected.
    im not disagreeing with the advice, just trying to understand it.

    A double pole switch is a great item in a circuit to show an earth fault is past the switch, particularly where ciruits go out to gardens. So in an earth to neutral short in the garden, and its own dedicated RCBO trips, simply switching off the DP switch will show if the fault is past the DP switch and likely in the gardem, or before it and likely in the house.

    In the case of kitchen appliances, while it is used to disconnect an appliance quickly in an emergency, it is also very useful to indicate again where there are faults causing nuisance tripping problems, as switching off the isolator will eliminate any problem after the switch on the circuit.

    It can be fairly tricky to narrow down these problems with difficult to get at sockets, so the isolators can be very useful for that.


  • Options
    #63
    .G.
    Registered Users Posts: 5,415 ✭✭✭.G.


    robbie7730 wrote: »
    I wouldnt agree with each appliance needing its own supply. If the 20 amp circuit is overloaded, thats what the 20 amp MCB is there for, in the same way any socket circuits work.

    Since each appliance has its own 20 amp switch, the switch itself wont ever be overloaded.

    A washing machine and dryer can easily work on one circuit etc. In paddys case, he has 3 items on one circuit which is not great.


    Yeah but if a sparks is wiring 3 sockets on the one switch then surely he has to think there's a possibility of that circuit being overloaded and should really think again.Its not great design of a circuit if its tripping its mcb when things on it are being used in a normal fashion.If there's a chance its going to be overloaded then it should be split as I'm sure you agree.


  • Options
    #64
    cast_iron
    Registered Users Posts: 2,454 ✭✭✭cast_iron


    superg wrote: »
    Yeah but if a sparks is wiring 3 sockets on the one switch then surely he has to think there's a possibility of that circuit being overloaded and should really think again.Its not great design of a circuit if its tripping its mcb when things on it are being used in a normal fashion.If there's a chance its going to be overloaded then it should be split as I'm sure you agree.
    What's "normal fashion" though? In a domestic situation, only the utility above and maybe the kitchen could run into trouble by overloading.

    And you're right, special consideration should be given for these situations.
    Though kitchens should have at least 2 ring circuits anyway.

    You can have up to 10 twin sockets on a circuit, but for a variety of reasons, that many would not usually be favourable.


  • Options
    #65
    .G.
    Registered Users Posts: 5,415 ✭✭✭.G.


    By normal I mean if the the 3 appliances are in operation at the same time,and that leads to an overload situation well that's a poorly designed circuit so final loadings have to be taken into consideration as much as is practicable when designing the circuit.Also how likely is at that all 3 old be ion together,its not like an oven and hob where diversity comes into it,washer,dryer and dishwasher would be on together in my house a few times.

    In reality there's probably no issue at all here,depends on the wattage of the appliances.Washing machine and dishwasher I wouldn't have thought would consume too much to be a problem,its the dryer that needs looking at when added to those 2.

    I agree ten is a bit much but then it depends on what you plug into them,in the normal kitchen there's not too many things you'd likely use that may cause an issue when other things are with it.


  • Options
    #66
    Bruthal
    Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    superg wrote: »
    Yeah but if a sparks is wiring 3 sockets on the one switch then surely he has to think there's a possibility of that circuit being overloaded and should really think again.Its not great design of a circuit if its tripping its mcb when things on it are being used in a normal fashion.If there's a chance its going to be overloaded then it should be split as I'm sure you agree.

    Im simply saying an isolator is needed for each appliance, but not necessarilly a circuit for each one. I never said 1 circuit for 3 items was good. I agreed with cast iron`s observation about 3 appliances on one circuit is not good.

    It would be a bit silly to run a circuit for a microwave alone though for example, just because it has an isolator controlling its socket. But 1 circuit for a washing machine and dish washer would not seem too bad.


  • Advertisement
  • Options
    #67
    Bruthal
    Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    cast_iron wrote: »
    Though kitchens should have at least 2 ring circuits anyway.


    No rings in the kitchens now though, is there. Maybe paddy`s sparks used a ring for them appliances. Probably not though. What size is the MCB paddy?


  • Options
    #68
    paddy147
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 15,858 ✭✭✭✭paddy147


    robbie7730 wrote: »
    No rings in the kitchens now though, is there. Maybe paddy`s sparks used a ring for them appliances. Probably not though. What size is the MCB paddy?


    Theres 2 seperate circuits for the kitchen area and appliances.

    The RCDs for the kitchen back at the fuse board are 20amp each.

    Oh and I had every appliances on this afternoon (washing machine,dryer,dishwasher,cooker,extractor unit and fridgefreezer) for around 2 hours with 2 radios,a kettle and microwave oven going off the surface wall sockets too,and nothing tripped out at all.


  • Options
    #69
    paddy147
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 15,858 ✭✭✭✭paddy147


    Can somebody advize me please on how to wire up that Hagar 20 amp MCBO thats for the outdoor junction box??

    As Ive stated above,Ive wired up a few normal RCD,s and double sockets,but have not wired up an RCBO yet.

    Can some give me some help please??

    Thanks.:)


  • Options
    #70
    cast_iron
    Registered Users Posts: 2,454 ✭✭✭cast_iron


    paddy147 wrote: »
    Oh and I had every appliances on this afternoon (washing machine,dryer,dishwasher,cooker,fridgefreezer) for around 2 hours with 2 radios,and a kettle and microwave oven going off the surface wall sockets too,and nothing tripped out at all.
    Where is the washing machine or is it a washer-dryer? I guess that's an integrated dishwasher beside it.
    Maybe one of the big 3 items is on another circuit? (washing machine, dryer, dishwasher)


  • Options
    #71
    paddy147
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 15,858 ✭✭✭✭paddy147


    cast_iron wrote: »
    Where is the washing machine or is it a washer-dryer? I guess that's an integrated dishwasher beside it.
    Maybe one of the big 3 items is on another circuit? (washing machine, dryer, dishwasher)


    Fully integrated kitchen.:)

    Washing machine is just that,a washing machine,then a seperate condensor dryer which is intergrated and then the dishwasher,which is also intergrated too.

    All 3 appliances mentioned above are on 1 20amp RCD and the 1 neon switch plate,and then the intergrated fridge freezer is on the other 20amp RCD with a neon switch plate too.

    The electric double oven is on its own RCD,which I think is a 32 amp and a large neon switch plate too,from memory.


  • Advertisement
  • Options
    #72
    cast_iron
    Registered Users Posts: 2,454 ✭✭✭cast_iron


    paddy147 wrote: »
    All 3 appliances mentioned above are on 1 20amp RCD and the 1 neon switch plate,
    I can't see those 3 appliances on full load not tripping out a 20A MCB.
    Perhaps when on low power cycles and eco modes being used it would be ok.

    In any case, 2 circs for those 3 appliances would be best practice.


  • Options
    #73
    M cebee
    Closed Accounts Posts: 4,431 ✭✭✭M cebee


    it can be surprising how many appliances can operate simultaneously on a 20amp mcb
    -without tripping it


  • Options
    #74
    paddy147
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 15,858 ✭✭✭✭paddy147


    Well all I know is that every appliance in that kitchen was on full whack today for a solid 2 hours and all the kitchen wall sockets had the likes of radios,microwaves and kettles plugged in,and nothing happened,nothing tripped out and everything was fine.


    But Im going to call the electrician in the morning and disscuss this matter with him and also with regards the regulation changes in 2009.


  • Options
    #75
    paddy147
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 15,858 ✭✭✭✭paddy147


    So can anyone help me out with wiring the RCBO please??????


  • Options
    #76
    cast_iron
    Registered Users Posts: 2,454 ✭✭✭cast_iron


    paddy147 wrote: »
    So can anyone help me out with wiring the RCBO please??????
    To my mind, someone who doesn't know how to fit it, shouldn't fit it.


  • Options
    #77
    paddy147
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 15,858 ✭✭✭✭paddy147


    cast_iron wrote: »
    To my mind, someone who doesn't know how to fit it, shouldn't fit it.


    As I said on the last page,Ive fitted a few RCD,s with no problems and also done some double sockets on a ring on a relations house,in the past.

    So Id appreciate some help on how to wire up a Hagar 20 amp RCBO please.


    Thanks.:)


  • Options
    #78
    M cebee
    Closed Accounts Posts: 4,431 ✭✭✭M cebee


    paddy in fairness

    the forum isn't here to coach non-qualified people through jobs

    i assume you've no testing equipment and won't be carrying out any tests


  • Options
    #79
    Bruthal
    Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    What sort a tests,, general knowlege?


  • Options
    #80
    paddy147
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 15,858 ✭✭✭✭paddy147


    Ok so,who wants a nixer in Dublin 9 then?????????


  • Options
    #81
    cast_iron
    Registered Users Posts: 2,454 ✭✭✭cast_iron


    paddy147 wrote: »
    Ok so,who wants a nixer in Dublin 9 then?????????
    Was the sparks that did the house no good then?
    I'd have thought he'd be the first call.


  • Advertisement
  • Options
    #82
    .G.
    Registered Users Posts: 5,415 ✭✭✭.G.


    robbie7730 wrote: »
    Im simply saying an isolator is needed for each appliance, but not necessarilly a circuit for each one. I never said 1 circuit for 3 items was good. I agreed with cast iron`s observation about 3 appliances on one circuit is not good.

    It would be a bit silly to run a circuit for a microwave alone though for example, just because it has an isolator controlling its socket. But 1 circuit for a washing machine and dish washer would not seem too bad.

    I know and I agree.I wasn't talking about silly things like a microwave,just the 3 appliances mentioned and that I agree with cast Iron and you that I wouldn't have all 3 on one circuit.My point was simply that the sparks doing it should've been thinking along those lines himself just to be safe.

    that said he probably knows what the draw is on the circuit whereas we don't.


  • Options
    #83
    paddy147
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 15,858 ✭✭✭✭paddy147


    cast_iron wrote: »
    Was the sparks that did the house no good then?
    I'd have thought he'd be the first call.


    He took a long time to come back to the house to finish off a bit of extra wiring work in another part of the house


  • Options
    #84
    buzzerxx
    Registered Users Posts: 913 ✭✭✭buzzerxx


    Pay a qualified electrician to do it.


  • Options
    #85
    Bruthal
    Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    Maybe he was no good at digging either:D


  • Options
    #86
    Bruthal
    Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    superg wrote: »
    that said he probably knows what the draw is on the circuit whereas we don't.

    True, but 2 appliances is most on 1 circuit for any of them 3 big ones. A replacement appliance might have a bigger element etc. So having 3 is too much.


  • Options
    #87
    buzzerxx
    Registered Users Posts: 913 ✭✭✭buzzerxx


    paddy147 wrote: »
    He took a long time to come back to the house to finish off a bit of extra wiring work in another part of the house

    you probably done his head in asking questions and looking over his shoulder
    d.i.y. and electricity is dangerous.


  • Options
    #88
    paddy147
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 15,858 ✭✭✭✭paddy147


    buzzerxx wrote: »
    you probably done his head in asking questions and looking over his shoulder

    Actually thats what I didnt do,so maybe I should have done that in the 1st instance.


  • Options
    #89
    paddy147
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 15,858 ✭✭✭✭paddy147


    Right so,seen as everyone is telling me to get a sparks in to do it

    How much would I be looking at for a sparks to fit the RCBO,fit the 2 pole switch plate and fit the outdoor junction box.

    I have the RCBO and I have the switch plate and the outdoor junction box.
    The 2.5 T&E is in place,as is the metal back box,as is the 4 core SWA.

    All that would be needed is to hook it up and get the power flowing.

    So how much am I looking at?????????

    Im in Dublin 9.


  • Options
    #90
    Bruthal
    Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    A 3 phase isolator might have made a good JB for out at the pond.


  • Advertisement
  • Options
    #91
    cast_iron
    Registered Users Posts: 2,454 ✭✭✭cast_iron


    Probably a bit overkill though robbie. Cost wise if nothing else.

    No one here can give you a price for someone else. Ring around and get a couple of quotes. That's how you'll find out the cost.

    I still think your switch is the wrong type, but I think I'll give up trying to find out.


Advertisement