Lidl petrol chainsaw

GY A1

lidl have a flora best 40cc petrol chainsaw this thursday,
anyone bought one before or what would it be like,
pretty reasonable for 100 euro if lasts

kopkidda

Steer clear, cheap and not very good

GY A1

have you got one before,

Wally Runs

I have one, which has not let me down but the use has been light. I bought it over a year ago. It is a husqvarna rebranded. It says so in the manual, same helpline etc. It may well be a basic model but the build is the same. Now I have no idea if the model this year is the same but a quick look at the manual should tell you. So I guess it depends on what you plan to do with it?

vicwatson

I'd go with this, far better brand IMO, try amazon for better price (or somewhere else online) -

http://www.buy4now.ie/woodiesdiy/productdetail.aspx?pid=12554&loc=P&catid=102.11.2

Eleganza

It's not a Husqvarna but it'd be as good quality wise as their comparable saw.
Both are made by the parent company, Electrolux Motor. I'd say it would be around 60 to 70 percent parts compatible with equivalent Husqvarna with bar, chain, sprocket, cylinder(probably), piston, crankshaft(probably), flywheel and ignition module being the same along with all the studs, nuts and bolts.
A long time since I looked at EM parts lists but if there is a parts list you'll probably find the same part numbers for most items.
At 99 euro there is absolutely nothing wrong with it.
That's a well made saw at a low price unlike the Chinese saws which are poorly engineered and poorly put together.
The design is the best part of 18 years old now with minor refinements along the way since the first husky 36, partner 350, jonsered 2036 appeared on the market.

If you buy it and there is a spike in the box don't affix it. Your saw should work under it's own weight rather than being levered in a tree.
Get a good hand file/guide and keep a good edge on the chain; that's the secret to using a chainsaw.
Use good quality two stoke oil, not the muck you find in many hardware stores. Good brand motorbike two stroke oil or preferably two stroke oil from Stihl, or the electrolux brands like Jonsered or Husqvarna.
Get a filter funnel and dedicated fuel container.
two stroke is simple; ignition and fueling.
ignition is solid state and as long as you buy good two stroke oil the plug won't foul up.
carburettor will work fine for decades if you just keep the fuel clean and water free.
run the engine out of petrol at the end of the season otherwise the carb will gum up with stale petrol.

I'm working off knowledge I had 15 or more years ago.

Eleganza

vicwatson wrote: »

I'd go with this, far better brand IMO, try amazon for better price (or somewhere else online) -

http://www.buy4now.ie/woodiesdiy/productdetail.aspx?pid=12554&loc=P&catid=102.11.2

Ryobi cheap ICEs were always muck.
The 99 euro Lidl saw is a better bet.

headmaster

They also have a "leaf blower/suction" appliance and a battery operated "hedge shears" this Thursday for sale. Can anyone tell me if they've ever bought either of those appliances please and what are they like?

btb

good for light work, pruning or limbing lighter stuff, will probably last domestic user a long time if looked after (not like me flogging it to death), and lidl give you a 3 year gaurntee
parts lists same as domestic user mcculloch's, (on previous florabest saws anyway)
only recommendation would be to bin oe bar and chain and buy decent set (probably cost another 50e),
just my tupence worth

paddy147

btb wrote: »

only recommendation would be to bin oe bar and chain and buy decent set (probably cost another 50e),
just my tupence worth

Well if thats the case,then I wouldnt bother buying the bloody thing,and just but a different chainsaw.

Eleganza

Original Bar and Chain would be mated to sprocket.
original bar and chain would be of equal quality to aftermarket Oregon parts.
upping the chain pitch would be tricky and expensive.

Nothing wrong with standard bar and chain as long as you keep a good edge on the chain. It is a low profile 3/8 pitch which is designed not to be aggessive so that consumers don't suffer much kick back.

GY A1

so it would prob be ok for light branches and trimming or light work

Eleganza

it is OK for anything tree up to it's bar's length and you can approach a tree from both sides to double that but it is a consumer saw intended for the small homesteader, if that isn't you then it isn't the saw for you.

red sean

headmaster wrote: »

They also have a "leaf blower/suction" appliance and a battery operated "hedge shears" this Thursday for sale. Can anyone tell me if they've ever bought either of those appliances please and what are they like?

I bought the leaf blower/vac. about 3 years ago and have had no problem whatsoever. And from now on it'll be in use every Saturday as I'm surrounded by broadleafs.
Can't answer you on the hedge shears as I do'nt even know anybody with one.

slowburner

Eleganza wrote: »

It's not a Husqvarna but it'd be as good quality wise as their comparable saw.
Both are made by the parent company, Electrolux Motor. I'd say it would be around 60 to 70 percent parts compatible with equivalent Husqvarna with bar, chain, sprocket, cylinder(probably), piston, crankshaft(probably), flywheel and ignition module being the same along with all the studs, nuts and bolts.
A long time since I looked at EM parts lists but if there is a parts list you'll probably find the same part numbers for most items.
At 99 euro there is absolutely nothing wrong with it.
That's a well made saw at a low price unlike the Chinese saws which are poorly engineered and poorly put together.
The design is the best part of 18 years old now with minor refinements along the way since the first husky 36, partner 350, jonsered 2036 appeared on the market.

If you buy it and there is a spike in the box don't affix it. Your saw should work under it's own weight rather than being levered in a tree.
Get a good hand file/guide and keep a good edge on the chain; that's the secret to using a chainsaw.
Use good quality two stoke oil, not the muck you find in many hardware stores. Good brand motorbike two stroke oil or preferably two stroke oil from Stihl, or the electrolux brands like Jonsered or Husqvarna.
Get a filter funnel and dedicated fuel container.
two stroke is simple; ignition and fueling.
ignition is solid state and as long as you buy good two stroke oil the plug won't foul up.
carburettor will work fine for decades if you just keep the fuel clean and water free.
run the engine out of petrol at the end of the season otherwise the carb will gum up with stale petrol.

I'm working off knowledge I had 15 or more years ago.

Eleganza, very informative post. Presumably you are referring to the bumper spike? I have an old Stihll 044 without a bumper spike - I find that not having one is a pain when it comes to blocking - logs shoot all over the place when the chain makes initial contact with the wood. I've had more than one or two bruises from logs being propelled this way. Would you not think that the spike is an integral part of the saw's safety set up?

btb

seems that there was great demand for them, was in local store today and all gone.

paddy147

headmaster wrote: »

They also have a "leaf blower/suction" appliance and a battery operated "hedge shears" this Thursday for sale. Can anyone tell me if they've ever bought either of those appliances please and what are they like?

Out of leaf blowers in Lidl,Coolock.

I picked up a brand new WORKZ 3000W leaf blower/vacum/mulcher for 55 euro this evening in BnQ Swords.

It was reduced from 95 euro to 65 euro.

I haggled a bit,as its end of gardening season and it was the last 1 on the shelf, and I got it for 55 euro.:D

Good deal me thinks.

paddy147

kopkidda wrote: »

Steer clear, cheap and not very good

You have 1 then??

Eleganza

slowburner wrote: »

Eleganza, very informative post. Presumably you are referring to the bumper spike? I have an old Stihll 044 without a bumper spike - I find that not having one is a pain when it comes to blocking - logs shoot all over the place when the chain makes initial contact with the wood. I've had more than one or two bruises from logs being propelled this way. Would you not think that the spike is an integral part of the saw's safety set up?

The bar on a 044 is much heavier than on most modern saws and you can lever against it.
modern bars are much softer.

gsxr1

I got the aldi chain saw 4 years ago and its still going strong. Looks very similar and had a 3 year warranty.

If you are a lumberjack buy a good one. If you are a DIYer. buy a cheap one.

Simples.

paddy147

I just bought the Lidl chainsaw.I got it for 90 euro,as the box was transport damaged,so I haggled a tenner off.

Its made in the USA for Lidl.

I also haggled a good deal out in BnQ for a 3000w WORKX leaf blower.vacume and mulcher.

It was reduced from 95 euro down to 65 euro,and I haggled another 10 euro off it too.

It pays to ask for a few euros off.:D

slowburner

You'll be haggling with St.Peter

paddy147

slowburner wrote: »

You'll be haggling with St.Peter

If it ever comes to it,then yep,I will be.:D

moy83

slowburner wrote: »

Eleganza, very informative post. Presumably you are referring to the bumper spike? I have an old Stihll 044 without a bumper spike - I find that not having one is a pain when it comes to blocking - logs shoot all over the place when the chain makes initial contact with the wood. I've had more than one or two bruises from logs being propelled this way. Would you not think that the spike is an integral part of the saw's safety set up?

I think the spikes are used for keeping the bar straight when felling a tree not for extra leverage when cutting blocks . If you use it when blocking it will put the saw under pressure that its not meant for

paddy147

Do you mix the oil and unleaded petrol together 1st,and then pour it into the chainsaw?

Or do you pour in the oil seperately and then pour in the petrol?


Also what type of oil is best for the bar and chain??


I cant bloodywell remember how to do it,and the instruction manual doesnt seem to say?

Thanks.:)

red sean

paddy147 wrote: »

Do you mix the oil and unleaded petrol together 1st,and then pour it into the chainsaw?

Or do you pour in the oil seperately and then pour in the petrol?


Also what type of oil is best for the bar and chain??


I cant bloodywell remember how to do it,and the instruction manual doesnt seem to say?

Thanks.:)

Ya do the mix first, not sure of the ratio 2 stroke to petrol ( for the Lidl one), but you can buy a mixing bottle in Homebase, B&Q etc. that has the graduations on it. Pour the petrol in the bottle to the mark and top up to the correct ratio level with 2 stroke, and shake.

There is chain oil in the diy or hire shops but I've been using ordinary semi-synthetic for the car with no problem.

red sean

My bad. Should have had photos!

paddy147

red sean wrote: »

Ya do the mix first, not sure of the ratio 2 stroke to petrol ( for the Lidl one), but you can buy a mixing bottle in Homebase, B&Q etc. that has the graduations on it. Pour the petrol in the bottle to the mark and top up to the correct ratio level with 2 stroke, and shake.

There is chain oil in the diy or hire shops but I've been using ordinary semi-synthetic for the car with no problem.

Thanks for the advice.:)

Ive a brain like a sieve today (headcold,banging headache and cant think straight).:(

So hense me asking,rather than just presuming.

paddy147

red sean wrote: »

My bad. Should have had photos!

:D

red sean

Paddy,
theres nothing better to clear the head than a day with the chainsaw!