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Stove & Flue Quick Installation

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  • 12-09-2011 3:53pm
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 21


    Hello. I'm hoping to put a stove in front of this fireplace and run the flue liner up the chimney. Simple, right? I've got a slate hearth to stand it on. grand. It's a fine, big, broad chimney inside.

    I can't change the structure of the fireplace as we're renting so this needs to be non-permanent as such. It's an old Georgian fireplace & there are a couple of holes low down in the original brickwork chimney flue. So hopefully somebody can help me out with a few questions - i haven't dealt with chimney's before.

    Do i need to run the stove's flue (piping) right up to the chimney-pot or can i just shove it a meter or two into the existing chimney & seal it off at the point of entry or at the top of the fire-back? Will the draught/draw still work if it's like that?

    What do i use/stuff around the flue pipe to ensure i don't get smoke returning into the room? How do i seal off the chimney once my flue liner is in place in other words? I gather they used to use asbestos wool but not any more, so what now? is there another type of non-combustible cotton wool that i can surround the pipe with? This job does not need to be pretty - it needs to be functional & cheap as possible.

    Also what is the safe, minimum clearance from combustible objects from an 8kw stove?

    Any help provided would be greatly, greatly appreciated.

    fire02.JPG


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    Hello. I'm hoping to put a stove in front of this fireplace and run the flue liner up the chimney. Simple, right? I've got a slate hearth to stand it on. grand. It's a fine, big, broad chimney inside.

    I can't change the structure of the fireplace as we're renting so this needs to be non-permanent as such. It's an old Georgian fireplace & there are a couple of holes low down in the original brickwork chimney flue. So hopefully somebody can help me out with a few questions - i haven't dealt with chimney's before.

    Do i need to run the stove's flue (piping) right up to the chimney-pot or can i just shove it a meter or two into the existing chimney & seal it off at the point of entry or at the top of the fire-back? Will the draught/draw still work if it's like that?

    What do i use/stuff around the flue pipe to ensure i don't get smoke returning into the room? How do i seal off the chimney once my flue liner is in place in other words? I gather they used to use asbestos wool but not any more, so what now? is there another type of non-combustible cotton wool that i can surround the pipe with? This job does not need to be pretty - it needs to be functional & cheap as possible.

    Also what is the safe, minimum clearance from combustible objects from an 8kw stove?

    Any help provided would be greatly, greatly appreciated.

    fire02.JPG

    Where are these holes in the chimney? Ideally as it's an old chimney it should be lined all the way to the top. Does the chimney work as is?

    Any wooden skirting boards or timber around the stove would need to be removed. Your stove manufacturer would give clearance distances to combustibles. If not send them an email. I would fit a big sheet of steel between the tiled sides of the fireplace and cut a hole out for the flue pipe to go through and seal with fire cement.

    Stove Fan:)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 21 Darragh1977


    Hi, thanks for the response Stove Fan!
    There is one hole about 120cm up from the fireback on the right - a couple of bricks were removed somewhere down the line (for piping installations of some kind - all now completely removed again!) and goes into another chimney which is sealed at its base. The other hole is front bottom and centre, i can actually just about touch the inside of the plaster wall right above the top of the fire box - it's about 3 inches high and 16 inches across (where the old, outer surround of the fireplace was [stupidly] taken away at some point) It's basically the bottom of the front wall of the stone chimney breast inside.

    The chimney works beautifully - terrific draft/draw on it. smoke goes straaaaiiight out the top, ignoring both of the unintended holes.

    I can understand why it's best to run the lining right to the top, but would it be particularly unsafe to just run it half way up or so (finances being driving factor here)? Would it have an effect on the draw?

    The steel sheet sounds logical & efficient. Good idea, thank you.

    As for the wooden surround - I'm hoping it may be of a safe distance from stove but if not, i was hoping that cementing slate tiles (purpose cut) over it and around edges of the front face would suffice - also would be aesthetically pleasing..?!

    thanks again for your help - it's so difficult to work from theory into specific practical for something like this :-)


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    Hi, thanks for the response Stove Fan!
    There is one hole about 120cm up from the fireback on the right - a couple of bricks were removed somewhere down the line (for piping installations of some kind - all now completely removed again!) and goes into another chimney which is sealed at its base. The other hole is front bottom and centre, i can actually just about touch the inside of the plaster wall right above the top of the fire box - it's about 3 inches high and 16 inches across (where the old, outer surround of the fireplace was [stupidly] taken away at some point) It's basically the bottom of the front wall of the stone chimney breast inside.

    The chimney works beautifully - terrific draft/draw on it. smoke goes straaaaiiight out the top, ignoring both of the unintended holes.

    I can understand why it's best to run the lining right to the top, but would it be particularly unsafe to just run it half way up or so (finances being driving factor here)? Would it have an effect on the draw?

    The steel sheet sounds logical & efficient. Good idea, thank you.

    As for the wooden surround - I'm hoping it may be of a safe distance from stove but if not, i was hoping that cementing slate tiles (purpose cut) over it and around edges of the front face would suffice - also would be aesthetically pleasing..?!

    thanks again for your help - it's so difficult to work from theory into specific practical for something like this :-)

    I would not risk it without the liner as your landlord wouldn't be impressed if you had a chimney fire or burnt the place down. Any wood would need to be removed to a safe distance to what the stove manufacturers says, as covering in tiles would not pass regs.

    When these old places were built they didn't worry too much about keeping timber joists out of the chimneys or away from them:rolleyes:. It would be better for draw and ease of cleaning. Not worth the risk and you could always take the liner with you when you move:)

    If I was you I would get a friendly stove company to look at the cheapest way of installing the stove. He will test the flue and inspect it and once the holes filled in say it's ok to use as is, but with me not seeing it I don't want to give any advice that could be dangerous.

    Personally though I would line the chimney for safety. It sounds as if there may be a back boiler in the old fireplace? If there is get it checked to make sure it's safe and not capped.

    Stove Fan:)


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 15,858 ✭✭✭✭paddy147


    1st of all......................


    Have you approached and spoken to your landlord about this matter??

    And do you have "full permission" from your landlord to even go near the fireplace and install a stove??????


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 21 Darragh1977


    Thanks Stove Fan. Appreciate all of the advice. All very sensible - short cuts not really an option on a job like this. Need to save a bit more cash now - and if i ever get there, i'll report back to you! :)


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 21 Darragh1977


    paddy147 wrote: »
    1st of all......................


    Have you approached and spoken to your landlord about this matter??

    And do you have "full permission" from your landlord to even go near the fireplace and install a stove??????


    Yes, of course. I've been making regular improvements to the flat since i've moved in and of course the landlord is happy with that.
    Regarding a job like this one... no money is being spent until clarity on the job is achieved AND consent given. However the landlord is delighted that i'm even looking into the issue of re-enlivening the fireplace.
    Thanks.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    Thanks Stove Fan. Appreciate all of the advice. All very sensible - short cuts not really an option on a job like this. Need to save a bit more cash now - and if i ever get there, i'll report back to you! :)

    Good luck with it and I hope you have a little win:D

    Stove Fan:)


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,378 ✭✭✭RebelButtMunch


    My stove has about 8 inches of clearance around the sides and back. The fireplace walls are lined with some sort of fire board. Feels soft to touch but doesnt heat up. The pipe going up is surrounded by rockwoll type stuff. Probably fire/heat resistant.

    If you do fit it yourself for the love of god check for carbon monoxide coming into the room before you get comfy


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 21 Darragh1977


    If you do fit it yourself for the love of god check for carbon monoxide coming into the room before you get comfy

    Definitely will. Thanks very much. Always nice yo get reminder of the *really* important stuff. Rather be cold than dead.


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