STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

henke

Hi,

I got a Stratford boiler stove installed a few months ago and overall am happy with it. Have noticed when cleaning around the hearth some small gold bits seem to gather to the right (see pic). I think this is insulation creeping out. My question is am I right and why is it happening? It is only small bits so hopefully not serious but guessing shouldn't be there.

Dev84

Hi all.
Hope someone can help me with some stove questions.

Recently had the chimney inspected and was told the liner is cracked. Sure enough when shown on the camera I could see it.

The inspector has told me I have two options.

1. A chimney rebuild which is mad money he reckons.
2.Line the chimney with the same liner used for stoves which is a hell of a lot cheaper.

At the moment we have an open fire wth back boiler.

So my questions are as follows.

Can the existing back boiler be plumbed to a new stove?

Anyone any price examples from work recently done?

Davidkiller

Dev84 wrote: »

Hi all.
Hope someone can help me with some stove questions.

Recently had the chimney inspected and was told the liner is cracked. Sure enough when shown on the camera I could see it.

The inspector has told me I have two options.

1. A chimney rebuild which is mad money he reckons.
2.Line the chimney with the same liner used for stoves which is a hell of a lot cheaper.

At the moment we have an open fire wth back boiler.

So my questions are as follows.

Can the existing back boiler be plumbed to a new stove?

Anyone any price examples from work recently done?

ya it can no problem we did the same recently a 20kw stove and it cost 2350 for everything and we also got a new black marble hearth at the same time included in the price

Davidkiller

henke wrote: »

Hi,

I got a Stratford boiler stove installed a few months ago and overall am happy with it. Have noticed when cleaning around the hearth some small gold bits seem to gather to the right (see pic). I think this is insulation creeping out. My question is am I right and why is it happening? It is only small bits so hopefully not serious but guessing shouldn't be there.

ya it looks like perlite i would be to worried but if it keeps on dropping down after a month or two id get the installer to check it out

Dev84

Davidkiller wrote: »

ya it can no problem we did the same recently a 20kw stove and it cost 2350 for everything and we also got a new black marble hearth at the same time included in the price

Excellent. Thats what the insector said. Around 2500 all inclusive. Any idea the cost of the flue liner and install? I will more than likely go through insurance for that.

What model stove did you go for?

Davidkiller

i went for the boru 20kw back boiler
and the liner and caps perlite cost about 350
i did the installation myself except the plumping

henke

Davidkiller wrote: »

ya it looks like perlite i would be to worried but if it keeps on dropping down after a month or two id get the installer to check it out

Thanks. I might get in touch with the installer. Curious if the stove isn't fitted correctly or if something is not sealed properly.

Davidkiller

henke wrote: »

Thanks. I might get in touch with the installer. Curious if the stove isn't fitted correctly or if something is not sealed properly.

from tge looks of the photos its nothing much i say it will stop fairly quickly

Gency

Most pictures I see the single wall flue sits INTO the collar on the top of the stove, however my collar is smaller and the flue will only sit tightly outside the collar. Is this ok?

PRman

Hi all, I have a problem with my stove and I hoping I could get some help here. Its a Stanley Aoife stove the house is about 60 years old. Since installation we are getting lumps of creosote falling down the chimney onto the top of the stove whenever we light it and it gets hot and they are smoking and creating an almighty stench. I got the company (Cliffords) that installed it back and they put in a metal plate above the stove, however the creosote is still coming down through the insulation and gap between the flue and metal plate. This gap is about 3 inches wide around the flue and perhaps too big IMHO?

What is my next move? Cliffords aren't offering any solutions and I am considering lighting a beast of a fire to get as much as possible to fall down and then block the gap with tech 7 fireproof expanding foam. Is this a bad move or can anyone give me a better course of action? Thanks

gillad

Gency wrote: »

Most pictures I see the single wall flue sits INTO the collar on the top of the stove, however my collar is smaller and the flue will only sit tightly outside the collar. Is this ok?

If you get any creosote coming down the flue it will end up on top of your stove.

gillad

PRman wrote: »

Hi all, I have a problem with my stove and I hoping I could get some help here. Its a Stanley Aoife stove the house is about 60 years old. Since installation we are getting lumps of creosote falling down the chimney onto the top of the stove whenever we light it and it gets hot and they are smoking and creating an almighty stench. I got the company (Cliffords) that installed it back and they put in a metal plate above the stove, however the creosote is still coming down through the insulation and gap between the flue and metal plate. This gap is about 3 inches wide around the flue and perhaps too big IMHO?

What is my next move? Cliffords aren't offering any solutions and I am considering lighting a beast of a fire to get as much as possible to fall down and then block the gap with tech 7 fireproof expanding foam. Is this a bad move or can anyone give me a better course of action? Thanks

Is the chimney lined with a flexi flue?....A twin walled flexi flue will stop the creosote from building up.
creosote should be directed into the stove so its possible that one of the flue collars is upside down.....if you stop the creosote from coming down then it will build up someplace in the chimney and cause a fire

Shefwedfan

PRman wrote: »

Hi all, I have a problem with my stove and I hoping I could get some help here. Its a Stanley Aoife stove the house is about 60 years old. Since installation we are getting lumps of creosote falling down the chimney onto the top of the stove whenever we light it and it gets hot and they are smoking and creating an almighty stench. I got the company (Cliffords) that installed it back and they put in a metal plate above the stove, however the creosote is still coming down through the insulation and gap between the flue and metal plate. This gap is about 3 inches wide around the flue and perhaps too big IMHO?

What is my next move? Cliffords aren't offering any solutions and I am considering lighting a beast of a fire to get as much as possible to fall down and then block the gap with tech 7 fireproof expanding foam. Is this a bad move or can anyone give me a better course of action? Thanks

Had similar issue last year. It was cresote running down the fuel pipe, I had to keep a bucket under it to collect. I had bought the house and it was terrible install.

They had not run a flex liner. So it was cast iron running right up to flue liner. What was happening was the hot air/smoke was hitting the cold flue. Generating cresote and it was coming back down. I replaced the cast iron with new ones, ran a flexi flue liner right up to top of chimeny.

Works perfect, your installation people sound like a shower of muppets. I would get some sort of refund and get someone proper in. You could have CO2 coming back into room etc....dangerous if they dont know how to install

dubtom

After a chimney fire and video inspection I'm told the flue pots are cracked. He advised that the whole flue should be removed before a flexi is installed.trouble is it needs to be done from inside and my house is pored concrete. I'm aware that their is other alternatives to relining a flue but am wondering is it nessary to remove the cracked pots before installing a flexi? I have an 18kw multi fuel stove.

gillad

dubtom wrote: »

After a chimney fire and video inspection I'm told the flue pots are cracked. He advised that the whole flue should be removed before a flexi is installed.trouble is it needs to be done from inside and my house is pored concrete. I'm aware that their is other alternatives to relining a flue but am wondering is it nessary to remove the cracked pots before installing a flexi? I have an 18kw multi fuel stove.

The problem with leaving cracked flue pots in the chimney is they may come loose and damage your new flexi flue when installing.
If they get the new flexi flue in without disrupting the cracked flues,then the space can be filled with perlite or vermiculite or maybe a weak cement/lime mix to keep everything strong.

mrsWhippy

Does anyone have any comments on the Charnwood Arc, 5kw?

Thanks!

Tommy Max

what is a register plate and is it required for an insert stove fitting to chimney flue?

also are fire blankets important for heat coming from insert stove?

giesha

Hi all, hope i posted in correct place.
how you doing?

can 1 of you please help me on 2 stove's?

1st.. a Stratford ecoboiler eb12i inset boiler

its, 5kw to room & 12kw to water.

& the..

2nd.. a Stanley cara+ inset boiler

its, 3.6kw to the room & 13.2kw to water.

...

are they good on fuel.?
do they heat up the rads quick?
are they easy to operate?

any one got these stove's.?
could you give us so info please, we'r going into 1 of these stove's next year, but im looking into this now & get / doing a bit of home work 1st.

could you give us some good & some bad points please.
the units are basicly the same cost.

also could you give us a few idea's on stove's that's about the same cost,with good to water & good to room.
we are thinking more to the stratford eco12ebi as i was told its cast (& its hard wareing). were some of them are made of steel (& is a weaker unit).
but what do i know... i only every seen 2 stove's in use & i have no idea what they was...but my god what great little heating units.

thanks all for any help. & i hope i posted in the correct place.

thanks.

cavan4sam

Hi all i have a blacksmith forge stove 20kw 8 to room and 12kw to hot water and rads .

I'm currently around 14 rads off it and feel its too much as it recommends 8-12

I'm wondering if i switch it to just heating upstairs which is around 6-7 radiators and hot water will it be too much on the radiators

I know when the plumber installed it he put expansion vessels and a small tank in the attic if that helps

Barr

What are peoples opinion on white / cream coloured stoves?

Would they be more difficult to keep clean.

Mickeroo

cavan4sam wrote: »

Hi all i have a blacksmith forge stove 20kw 8 to room and 12kw to hot water and rads .

I'm currently around 14 rads off it and feel its too much as it recommends 8-12

I'm wondering if i switch it to just heating upstairs which is around 6-7 radiators and hot water will it be too much on the radiators

I know when the plumber installed it he put expansion vessels and a small tank in the attic if that helps

The plumber put a change over thermostat on ours so we can switch between upstairs and downstairs as we need. So if you felt upstairs was more than warm enough you can switch it over to heat the downstairs and vise versa.

thekooman

Barr wrote: »

What are peoples opinion on white / cream coloured stoves?

Would they be more difficult to keep clean.

should be easy clean i would imagine but as with any enamel stove if you chip it it mightn't look great. thats the beauty of the non-enamel black stove.

popsy09

My house was built in 2007 it has a standard open fire with clay pots going up the shaft

I went to 3 places today to get a price for a 5kw insert stove the first 2 were similar 950-1000e fitted these were 2 different 5kw stoves

The third place which was selling the same stove that was 950e fitted and they wanted 1850 e as they said I would 100% have to line the chimney where as the other 2 said since I have clay pots there is no need and they have done 100s of jobs like mine

I know lining the chimney can't be a bad thing but if I don't have to I would rather keep the 900 or so euro in my pocket ..

What are peoples opinions on this

Forge83

popsy09 wrote: »

My house was built in 2007 it has a standard open fire with clay pots going up the shaft

I went to 3 places today to get a price for a 5kw insert stove the first 2 were similar 950-1000e fitted these were 2 different 5kw stoves

The third place which was selling the same stove that was 950e fitted and they wanted 1850 e as they said I would 100% have to line the chimney where as the other 2 said since I have clay pots there is no need and they have done 100s of jobs like mine

I know lining the chimney can't be a bad thing but if I don't have to I would rather keep the 900 or so euro in my pocket ..

What are peoples opinions on this

100% line the chimney.
However €1850 seems a bit steep unless a manlift/teleported is required.
A lining kit plus the extra labour should cost a max €480-€580 more.

popsy09

Forge83 wrote: »

100% line the chimney.
However €1850 seems a bit steep unless a manlift/teleported is required.
A lining kit plus the extra labour should cost a max €480-€580 more.

Why would you say line the chimney ?? I'm just curious as to why the 2 places are saying no , is it as they will have a better chance of people paying 1000 rather than say 1800

Is it dangerous ?

gillad

popsy09 wrote: »

Why would you say line the chimney ?? I'm just curious as to why the 2 places are saying no , is it as they will have a better chance of people paying 1000 rather than say 1800

Is it dangerous ?

If you are able to keep an eye on how clean your flue is and be prepared to clean the flue twice a year then it is not dangerous......there can be hidden places in an unlined flue where soot and cresote can build up and cause a fire which can cost thousands to fix.

Its a risk not lining it but it may be years before something happens.
I would line it but the quote you got to line it is a little high

irishproduce

Anyone ever come across a 190mm flue connector to clay pot?
Stove has a 190mm flue and chimney is 8". Stumped here. Tried Ryan stoves and they can't help.

Forge83

irishproduce wrote: »

Anyone ever come across a 190mm flue connector to clay pot?
Stove has a 190mm flue and chimney is 8". Stumped here. Tried Ryan stoves and they can't help.

You will have to get it custom made.

irishproduce

Thanks Forge

Dev84

Hi Folks,

Had chimney swept before Christmas and was told by the sweep that I had a crack. Sure enough when I looked up I can see the crack myself. Haven't lit the fire for obvious reasons since then.

So I have decided that I am going to get rid of the open fire and have a boiler stove fitted.The existing back boiler will need to be removed first but have been told by installers that the existing pipe work and pump can be used for the new boiler stove.The insurance will cover the cost of the chimney repair.

It's a 3 bed semi so would it be better and more cost effective just to put in a stand alone stove?

Any ball park ideas of costs involved?

lordgoat

popsy09 wrote: »

My house was built in 2007 it has a standard open fire with clay pots going up the shaft

I went to 3 places today to get a price for a 5kw insert stove the first 2 were similar 950-1000e fitted these were 2 different 5kw stoves

The third place which was selling the same stove that was 950e fitted and they wanted 1850 e as they said I would 100% have to line the chimney where as the other 2 said since I have clay pots there is no need and they have done 100s of jobs like mine

I know lining the chimney can't be a bad thing but if I don't have to I would rather keep the 900 or so euro in my pocket ..

What are peoples opinions on this

I have a similar issue. House built in 1997, Bungalow, external chimney breast, very clean. Had hardly been used. Got it cleaned and smoke tested - passed 100%. Chimney has no bends etc, straight single flue.

Right now we are looking to remove fireplace completely and put in a free standing stove. Don't want an insert stove. We've been looking a good while now and keep getting mixed info.

Some places refuse to use the existing clay flue and will only install with a stainless steel flexi-flue.

One other place refuses to use flexi-flues, saying long term they will become an issue. But also says widening the opening for the free standing stove may damage the existing chimney.

Ideally we would like a 5-7kw stove (no boiler) and a plain finish around it. Quotes have ranges from 2700 - 3300

Would love some opinions / personal experiences. Thanks.
Based in Maynooth area.

Juwwi

lordgoat wrote: »

I have a similar issue. House built in 1997, Bungalow, external chimney breast, very clean. Had hardly been used. Got it cleaned and smoke tested - passed 100%. Chimney has no bends etc, straight single flue.

Right now we are looking to remove fireplace completely and put in a free standing stove. Don't want an insert stove. We've been looking a good while now and keep getting mixed info.

Some places refuse to use the existing clay flue and will only install with a stainless steel flexi-flue.

One other place refuses to use flexi-flues, saying long term they will become an issue. But also says widening the opening for the free standing stove may damage the existing chimney.

Ideally we would like a 5-7kw stove (no boiler) and a plain finish around it. Quotes have ranges from 2700 - 3300

Would love some opinions / personal experiences. Thanks.
Based in Maynooth area.

mmccstovesandfireplaces has an offer on his site for 2500 for what you describe you want .

I used them and was happy enough with them , I got similar to what you want except we went with a black slate effect chamber in the opening .

Give him a call even for getting advice on best way to do the job,l got the impression he has been in the game a long time.

Marcus is the lad we dealt with .

Paddytheman

Hey all, So have moved into our house and have a 5kw stove in our living room, which is approx 3m x 3m. Have the stove lit all day but room barely gets above slightly warm. Have noticed insulation coming from one side of the stove, "small white pastic rubble".

The stove was installed before we bought but had never been used. ANy ideas?

Basq

Have a solid fuel stove (Heritage Dunmore) and can't help but think the output of my sister's stove (which is slightly smaller) produces a lot more heat in a similarly sized room.

I'd often be waiting over an hour for the room to properly heat up with my stove, whereas far quicker for her.

I did notice that the stove itself that she has is far smaller in terms of depth and width, so would I be able to put say loose fire bricks at the back of my stove to radiate more heat outwards or something. I just can't help but think a lot of the heat is going up the chimney or something.

gillad

Basq wrote: »

Have a solid fuel stove (Heritage Dunmore) and can't help but think the output of my sister's stove (which is slightly smaller) produces a lot more heat in a similarly sized room.

I'd often be waiting over an hour for the room to properly heat up with my stove, whereas far quicker for her.

I did notice that the stove itself that she has is far smaller in terms of depth and width, so would I be able to put say loose fire bricks at the back of my stove to radiate more heat outwards or something. I just can't help but think a lot of the heat is going up the chimney or something.

Is your stove connected to the rads and what are you burning?
same question for your sisters stove

Basq

gillad wrote: »

Is your stove connected to the rads and what are you burning?
same question for your sisters stove

Neither are connected to rads.. standalone inset stoves.

She's burning just kiln-dried wood.. I'm burning kiln-dried and coal.

gillad

Basq wrote: »

Neither are connected to rads.. standalone inset stoves.

She's burning just kiln-dried wood.. I'm burning kiln-dried and coal.

With an inset stove,the chance of loosing heat up the chimney is higher,everything is hidden so heat loss is harder to examine and fix.
Your idea about firebricks is on the right track but most of the heat goes up and i'd guess that is your problem which is hard to fix.
if the stove eventually heats the room to a good level then all is good...just slower

gillad

Paddytheman wrote: »

Hey all, So have moved into our house and have a 5kw stove in our living room, which is approx 3m x 3m. Have the stove lit all day but room barely gets above slightly warm. Have noticed insulation coming from one side of the stove, "small white pastic rubble".

The stove was installed before we bought but had never been used. ANy ideas?

I had a stove that size in a room of similar size and temps used to reach 32,i'd have to open doors to let out some heat.
is it connected to the rads?if not then the heat is going up and out the chimney
The white stuff is perlite

Dev84

Hi Folks,

Had chimney swept before Christmas and was told by the sweep that I had a crack. Sure enough when I looked up I can see the crack myself. Haven't lit the fire for obvious reasons since then.

So I have decided that I am going to get rid of the open fire and have a boiler stove fitted.The existing back boiler will need to be removed first but have been told by installers that the existing pipe work and pump can be used for the new boiler stove.The insurance will cover the cost of the chimney repair.

It's a 3 bed semi so would it be better and more cost effective just to put in a stand alone stove?

Any ball park ideas of costs involved?

Basq

gillad wrote: »

Your idea about firebricks is on the right track but most of the heat goes up and i'd guess that is your problem which is hard to fix.
if the stove eventually heats the room to a good level then all is good...just slower

Yeah.. in hindsight.. I'm thinking the increased depth in our stove is definitely affecting it.

If I'd some way to safely decrease that overall depth (at back and sides), I reckon it'd make a difference.

The problem is myself and my partner both work till 5 or 6 in the evening.. so waiting till 7 or 7.30 to get a warm room is a bit of a sickener. If we're running late and are home after 7, there's not a massive amount of point in lighting it.

Dev84

Has anyone any reviews on fire doors for an existing back boiler? Do they work well?

Just looking at them (deville , boru) fraction of the price and can be fitted diy fairly handy.

Shefwedfan

Dev84 wrote: »

Has anyone any reviews on fire doors for an existing back boiler? Do they work well?

Just looking at them (deville , boru) fraction of the price and can be fitted diy fairly handy.

Now this is not technical or anything.

I talked to a few people, they said the issue was most of the heat is lost up the chimney, the fire door does not stop this so its not really solving the problem.....

Mickeroo

We had a sttratford eb12 insert installed and we're happy with it for the most part, it heats the rads very well and sems pretty efficient. It doesn't heat the room all that much though, it's generally just about comfotable but any talk of having to leave the door open to let the heat out was way off the mark. most evenings the OH would still need a blanket over her lap for example.

My parents have a free standing stanley boiler stove and the performance of our insert is actually better than that. So is it the norm for boilers not to throw out all that much heat to the room?

gillad

Mickeroo wrote: »

So is it the norm for boilers not to throw out all that much heat to the room?

Yes..Most of the heat goes to the rads.
I had a 6kw freestanding non boiler and the heat was too much,so had to open doors to cool down the room,temps over 30.

I now have a 12kw free standing boiler stove.I have a rad in the same room as the boiler and it is always on....if i turned off the rad, the room would be just warm but not cosy warm.

A nonboiler free standing stove is the best way to heat a single room.

fallen01angel

Hi All,
After a lot of looking around I've pretty much decided on buying an inset cassette stove called the Scandinavisk A500,just wondering has anyone here got any experience of having one of these? I haven't found any reviews of them. It's a wood burning stove,looks great but I'd really love to hear peoples opinions on how they find them?

Paddytheman

gillad wrote: »

I had a stove that size in a room of similar size and temps used to reach 32,i'd have to open doors to let out some heat.
is it connected to the rads?if not then the heat is going up and out the chimney
The white stuff is perlite

No not connected to the rads, its just to heat the room. Is there anything obvious that could be missing i can try and correct myself?

gillad

Paddytheman wrote: »

No not connected to the rads, its just to heat the room. Is there anything obvious that could be missing i can try and correct myself?

I presume its an inset stove.
What are you burning?...to get the most(5kw)from your stove,you nee to have a good fire burning constantly like a raging coal fire.

The heat must be going somewhere...is the room/house insulated well?

Barr

What is the most efficient fuel type to burn in a stove , some seem to come in wood burning only whereas others are multi-fuel ?

rpmcs

gillad wrote:

I presume its an inset stove. What are you burning?...to get the most(5kw)from your stove,you nee to have a good fire burning constantly like a raging coal fire.

I would suggest that telling some one to out on raging fire is bad advise.
Reason being if the chimney draught is high then the stove could be over fired and damage the stove internally and also over Heat the flue and cause serious damage the flue.
Also if high draught is an issue then this could explain the heat being sucked up chimney .

My advise would be to put on a good fire but then then control the burn rate by turning down air controls till you have nice rolling flame rather than an anger flame firing up chimney.
Just my thoughts.

gillad

rpmcs wrote: »

I would suggest that telling some one to out on raging fire is bad advise.
Reason being if the chimney draught is high then the stove could be over fired and damage the stove internally and also over Heat the flue and cause serious damage the flue.
Also if high draught is an issue then this could explain the heat being sucked up chimney .

My advise would be to put on a good fire but then then control the burn rate by turning down air controls till you have nice rolling flame rather than an anger flame firing up chimney.
Just my thoughts.

Yes.A raging fire is the wrong description but stoves are designed and recommended to have good strong fires burning.
Getting a raging fire going is a good way to figure out the total heat output of your stove but should be done gradually over a few days(a bigger fire every day) if you are unsure or nervous.