STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

Basq

Balls.. loads of stove paint burned off overnight:



Stove is over 2 years old.

Any idea why would this have happened overnight, and also would some black stove paint just be enough to sort it?

Shefwedfan

Basq wrote: »

Balls.. loads of stove paint burned off overnight:



Stove is over 2 years old.

Any idea why would this have happened overnight, and also would some black stove paint just be enough to sort it?

Seen stove paint around, quick check in goodwins and they have spray paint but I know I seen can before.

https://www.goodwins.ie/products/everbuild-heat-resistant-stove-paint-matt-black-400ml-2359050.html?name=stove+paint&type=simple

I had something similar before, I had loaded the fire with coal before going to bed, I took it that it got too hot....could be wrong....also could be just wear & tear

gillad

Basq wrote: »

Balls.. loads of stove paint burned off overnight:



Stove is over 2 years old.

Any idea why would this have happened overnight, and also would some black stove paint just be enough to sort it?

very windy last night which would have increased the draw

Basq

Shefwedfan wrote: »

Seen stove paint around, quick check in goodwins and they have spray paint but I know I seen can before.

Yep, I'll check Homeland / Connacht Gold at weekend as think I've seen it there too.

gillad wrote: »

very windy last night which would have increased the draw

Yeah, true enough... though it managed just fine during Ophelia and Fionn lately. Literally all burned off overnight.

Ah well, I'll put it down to a one-off and repaint over weekend.

irishproduce

On the subject of the insert cassette stoves, is there anything to be mindful of when looking to clean one of these?
I am gonna have one installed, into an original open fireplace (Gatherer/ Lentil height and all that is sufficient) but I am wondering, how does one go about cleaning the chimney flue once the thing is in?

Dev84

Hey,

Anyone got a review for the 18kw vitae boiler stove?

Will be getting chimney lined , new fireplace, existing back boiler removed and stove plumbed to existing pipe work.

Have got a quote for 4k.

clfy39tzve8njq

Hi I have a standard fire opening with the fireback removed. Is there any stove that would fit into that space (not an insert) or would I need to enlarge it. Thanks.

Mickeroo

Amiyah Substantial Zipper wrote: »

Hi I have a standard fire opening with the fireback removed. Is there any stove that would fit into that space (not an insert) or would I need to enlarge it. Thanks.

Something like this might suit:: https://www.stovax.com/stove-fire/stockton-wood-multi-fuel-stoves/stockton-3/

Villan11

I have a Stanley Oisin inset into my fireplace without much issue, had to get some of area replastered when the fireplace came out. I was recommended to use use sand and cement with a small bit of lime, presumably due to the heat. Will send a pic if it helps...

Amiyah Substantial Zipper wrote: »

Hi I have a standard fire opening with the fireback removed. Is there any stove that would fit into that space (not an insert) or would I need to enlarge it. Thanks.

clfy39tzve8njq

Villan11 wrote:

I have a Stanley Oisin inset into my fireplace without much issue, had to get some of area replastered when the fireplace came out. I was recommended to use use sand and cement with a small bit of lime, presumably due to the heat. Will send a pic if it helps...

Thanks and is your opening standard and not enlarged. A pic would be great.

Villan11

Amiyah Substantial Zipper wrote: »

Thanks and is your opening standard and not enlarged. A pic would be great.

Standard opening with no widening work done, pic attached.

clfy39tzve8njq

Villan11 wrote:

Standard opening with no widening work done, pic attached.

Thanks a million for the pic that's exactly what I want to do. Did you fit a flue liner or how is it attached to your chimney

Villan11

Amiyah Substantial Zipper wrote: »

Thanks a million for the pic that's exactly what I want to do. Did you fit a flue liner or how is it attached to your chimney

Didn't put a liner down as it's more decorative than functional. There's a solid flu to the chimney where there's an adapter that clamps in place. I might not be explaining this quite right. Fantastic heat from it when we do use it and very simple controls.

clfy39tzve8njq

Villan11 wrote:

Didn't put a liner down as it's more decorative than functional. There's a solid flu to the chimney where there's an adapter that clamps in place. I might not be explaining this quite right. Fantastic heat from it when we do use it and very simple controls.

Do you have to pull it out to clean the chimney or do you clean from the roof and take it out the stove door

Villan11

Amiyah Substantial Zipper wrote: »

Do you have to pull it out to clean the chimney or do you clean from the roof and take it out the stove door

Clean from the roof, remove the baffle and bricks, close the door and then sweep from the roof. All dirt is then in the stove. I give it a good clean out then.

clfy39tzve8njq

Villan11 wrote:

Clean from the roof, remove the baffle and bricks, close the door and then sweep from the roof. All dirt is then in the stove. I give it a good clean out then.

Thanks for the info I appreciate it

Villan11

Amiyah Substantial Zipper wrote: »

Thanks for the info I appreciate it

Not at all, I got a lot of help and guidance here when researching my stove purchases and its good to be able to give some back. Best of luck!!

CD2017

Hi Everyone,

Just looking for some help on choosing stoves for a new house. The house is under construction at present and will be A rated so they leave fireplace covered and we can have it cut out then to insert stove..... being honest I haven't a clue where to start.
Can anyone advise what I need to get done before stove goes in and then of course some advice on what I should look for in a stove would be really helpful.

I have a kitchen living room which will be a large almost l shaped space, with the stove to go in the living room. We were not looking to get a boiler stove just room heaters (please tell me if this is crazy?) looking for something a little more modern than the general ones Ive seen if possible, what KW etc should I look at?

We also have a sitting room with space for a stove, this is a good sized room, 22.37 msq and need a stove for there too (room heater) so again any recommendations welcome. Sorry if this is all a bit long would just love some solid advice.

TIA

gillad

CD2017 wrote: »

Hi Everyone,

Just looking for some help on choosing stoves for a new house. The house is under construction at present and will be A rated so they leave fireplace covered and we can have it cut out then to insert stove..... being honest I haven't a clue where to start.
Can anyone advise what I need to get done before stove goes in and then of course some advice on what I should look for in a stove would be really helpful.

I have a kitchen living room which will be a large almost l shaped space, with the stove to go in the living room. We were not looking to get a boiler stove just room heaters (please tell me if this is crazy?) looking for something a little more modern than the general ones Ive seen if possible, what KW etc should I look at?

We also have a sitting room with space for a stove, this is a good sized room, 22.37 msq and need a stove for there too (room heater) so again any recommendations welcome. Sorry if this is all a bit long would just love some solid advice.

TIA

Everything can be done when the construction is finished but it may be easier to install flex flu now as you will prob have scaffolding up.
A stand alone room heater stove would be your best option for rooms of that size.
you can find online kw calculaters to determine what size stove you need

chuck eastwood

gillad wrote: »

Everything can be done when the construction is finished but it may be easier to install flex flu now as you will prob have scaffolding up.
A stand alone room heater stove would be your best option for rooms of that size.
you can find online kw calculaters to determine what size stove you need

To be fair if your architect is any use at all he should be able to easily spec the sizing of all rads and outputs needed per room. After that you should go directly to the likes of stanley stoves but from personal experience the show rooms in builder's providers will not give you the info you need as i found having wasted a huge amount of time. Are you using a system link set up or have you sat down with your plumber to discuss options yet. In fairness between the architect and plumber they should be able to recommend KW output

chuck eastwood

http://www.waterfordstanley.com/news-media/ask-the-heat-doctor

http://www.waterfordstanley.com/news-media/ask-the-heat-doctor/which-size-stove-to-fit-my-room

Bit of useful info in there and they have a sale on now. I installed lismore boiler stove about 3 years ago to use as a combi system with an oil burner via a systemlink. Works really well. Keeping mind if they say it heats ten rads then that is viewed as max output with a roaring fire. Hope this helps

pedroeibar1

Looking at installing a 10kw non-boiler insert stove with a 190mm topvent in a newish two-storey extension. Chimney is sound, 9m high with a 200mm claypipe flue within solid chimney (surrounding space back-filled during construction.) Can I assume that there is no need for a flue liner?
Aesthetically an insert is preferred, but is a free-standing stove faster to heat/more efficient?
Advice appreciated, thanks.

jaffa20

I have a vitae 6kw stove in quite a small room (12-13sq m), how quickly should the room heat up from 8-9degrees? I'm using good smokeless coal and briquettes at the moment and it's great after 4 hours or so but the first few hours it's very slow to get the heat up.

Lit stove at 6.30pm today and at 8.30 it's only 15degrees? Does that sound right? I can get it up to 21 degrees after about 4 or 5 hours at which point i'll probably open the door. I'm wondering if that's all ok for an inset stove or should i get it checked out? Maybe will try some different fuel.

Roen

jaffa20 wrote: »

I have a vitae 6kw stove in quite a small room (12-13sq m), how quickly should the room heat up from 8-9degrees? I'm using good smokeless coal and briquettes at the moment and it's great after 4 hours or so but the first few hours it's very slow to get the heat up.

Lit stove at 6.30pm today and at 8.30 it's only 15degrees? Does that sound right? I can get it up to 21 degrees after about 4 or 5 hours at which point i'll probably open the door. I'm wondering if that's all ok for an inset stove or should i get it checked out? Maybe will try some different fuel.

How are you measuring temperature? I've never had anywhere in the house drop below 16C no matter how cold it gets outside. That's with no fire and the central heating knocking off at 9 for the night and coming back on at half four the following afternoon.
Is it a really old draughty house? Any central heating?
It sounds very wrong on the surface of it but I'd first start with questioning how the room gets so cold in the first place.
Next up is your stoves Kw rating and what you're burning in it and how much.
They can be hungry enough if you want to run them at full capacity.

jaffa20

Roen wrote: »

How are you measuring temperature? I've never had anywhere in the house drop below 16C no matter how cold it gets outside. That's with no fire and the central heating knocking off at 9 for the night and coming back on at half four the following afternoon.
Is it a really old draughty house? Any central heating?
It sounds very wrong on the surface of it but I'd first start with questioning how the room gets so cold in the first place.
Next up is your stoves Kw rating and what you're burning in it and how much.
They can be hungry enough if you want to run them at full capacity.

Thanks for reply. The temperature is a thermostat on an electric heater which displays temperature. Maybe it's not accurate, it could be the temperature of the heater haha :pac: It normally only goes below 10degrees say if it's around 1 or 2 degrees outside. Perhaps i will buy a thermometer for accuracy.

The stove isn't too hungry on fuel and when the fuel is burning well, i lower both vents halfway. I usually stick to smokeless coal and briquettes and 20kg would last me about 5 or 6 days to burn from 6pm till late. It does get lovely and warm eventually but would love it to heat up a bit quicker.

Roen

jaffa20 wrote: »

Thanks for reply. The temperature is a thermostat on an electric heater which displays temperature. Maybe it's not accurate, it could be the temperature of the heater haha :pac: It normally only goes below 10degrees say if it's around 1 or 2 degrees outside. Perhaps i will buy a thermometer for accuracy.

The stove isn't too hungry on fuel and when the fuel is burning well, i lower both vents halfway. I usually stick to smokeless coal and briquettes and 20kg would last me about 5 or 6 days to burn from 6pm till late. It does get lovely and warm eventually but would love it to heat up a bit quicker.

I'd say that thermostat is way off if you're opening the door at 21C. I know everyone is different but that's comfortable t shirt temperature for me but too cold for my wife.
8 or 9C would have me shivering before long.
The Kw rating of your stove is important too and the size of the room in m3.

Draughts and lack of insulation could explain the slow warming up, or the stove could be under specced for the room. As you are burning a relatively small amount I'm think it's safe to assume you're not heating rads from the stove.

That seems like a long time to get warm though. I have an open fire in the living room and it only takes about 1-2 hours to get toasty.

Roen

Sorry. Just noticed that you that the first line of your original post had the Kw rating of the stove. Doh.
All other things aside a 6kw stove in a room of that size should heat it up way quicker and should go on to lift you out of it.
I wouldn't bother with turf though unless you have an absolute tonne of the stuff.

On the surface of it the stove is big for the size of the room. Unless you have ceilings three times the height of normal. I'm putting one in a room about twice that size with 2.4m ceilings and it'll be a 5Kw.
You have to factor in window area. Wall and ceiling insulation. Number of doors and if you have stairs leading out of the room.

I'm not an expert in this field but I'd be getting a stove guy out to look at it. First things first though. An accurate thermometer!

jaffa20

Roen wrote: »

Sorry. Just noticed that you that the first line of your original post had the Kw rating of the stove. Doh.
All other things aside a 6kw stove in a room of that size should heat it up way quicker and should go on to lift you out of it.
I wouldn't bother with turf though unless you have an absolute tonne of the stuff.

On the surface of it the stove is big for the size of the room. Unless you have ceilings three times the height of normal. I'm putting one in a room about twice that size with 2.4m ceilings and it'll be a 5Kw.
You have to factor in window area. Wall and ceiling insulation. Number of doors and if you have stairs leading out of the room.

I'm not an expert in this field but I'd be getting a stove guy out to look at it. First things first though. An accurate thermometer!

Thanks for the reply. It's an old victorian terrace so insulation is terrible and window is quite old. Ceiling height 2.6m. All this could be having an impact on slower time to heat up.

What I do notice that if i put some logs on top of coal, it is much quicker to throw out the heat so might stick to this when lighting the fire.

The stove itself is very hot to touch after 30-45 mins to i'm not sure if it cause my installation. Will invest in proper thermometer first and see how things go.

pedroeibar1

pedroeibar1 wrote: »

Looking at installing a 10kw non-boiler insert stove with a 190mm topvent in a newish two-storey extension. Chimney is sound, 9m high with a 200mm claypipe flue within solid chimney (surrounding space back-filled during construction.) Can I assume that there is no need for a flue liner?
Aesthetically an insert is preferred, but is a free-standing stove faster to heat/more efficient?
Advice appreciated, thanks.

Bump thanks.

gillad

pedroeibar1 wrote: »

Bump thanks.

You have a bigger risk of a chinmey fire when you omit the flexi flue...Cresote will form in the clay pots but not in the flexi flue
if you clean the chimney often and burn clean fuel this will help

gillad

jaffa20 wrote: »

The stove isn't too hungry on fuel and when the fuel is burning well, i lower both vents halfway. I usually stick to smokeless coal and briquettes and 20kg would last me about 5 or 6 days .

The age and insulation of your house is one problem.
You are not burning very much coal,,,,you will only get out what you put in and since your house is probably losing heat fast you need to keep that stove burning well.
When you turn down the air supply,you turn down the performance.....let the air controls fully open for longer.

My stove and house is different but this is how I use it..top and bottom vents fully open and stove full of coal.When it is burning very strong i close the bottom vent.The stove continues to burn strong with lots of flames for 45mins,the flames start to die down then and i have a large glowing orange mass of hot coal and my room is warm....the top vent is only closed if i get too hot

jaffa20

gillad wrote: »

The age and insulation of your house is one problem.
You are not burning very much coal,,,,you will only get out what you put in and since your house is probably losing heat fast you need to keep that stove burning well.
When you turn down the air supply,you turn down the performance.....let the air controls fully open for longer.

My stove and house is different but this is how I use it..top and bottom vents fully open and stove full of coal.When it is burning very strong i close the bottom vent.The stove continues to burn strong with lots of flames for 45mins,the flames start to die down then and i have a large glowing orange mass of hot coal and my room is warm....the top vent is only closed if i get too hot

OK i will try keep both vents open for longer thanks. With the top vent, do you mean the secondary airwash? Maybe it is different on my stove but i read the bottom primary vent shouldn't be closed for burning coal? I normally only close it 3/4 of the way.

gillad

jaffa20 wrote: »

OK i will try keep both vents open for longer thanks. With the top vent, do you mean the secondary airwash? Maybe it is different on my stove but i read the bottom primary vent shouldn't be closed for burning coal? I normally only close it 3/4 of the way.

yea.the top vent is the airwash.
once the coal is burning well the air will be sucked into the fire via the airwash.
The best thing to do is experiment with your stove and figure it out your self but I recommend leaving all air intakes fully open and it should give out more heat faster..only close it down when the room is warm.

pedroeibar1

gillad wrote: »

You have a bigger risk of a chinmey fire when you omit the flexi flue...Cresote will form in the clay pots but not in the flexi flue
if you clean the chimney often and burn clean fuel this will help

Thanks Gillad, your point on creosote made me do more research - my fuel is wood. I presume that the liner will heat faster/remain hotter than the clay pipe even though there would not be room for in-fill insulation.

Is it best for the flexiliner run to the top of the flue? Some websites suggest that it is best to have it just half way up…

Also, an installer site states that ‘Due to building regulations we now only install 150 mm flexible flue liners’ - this seems odd when the designed outlet for the stove is 200mm.

MAJJ

gillad wrote: »

You have a bigger risk of a chinmey fire when you omit the flexi flue...Cresote will form in the clay pots but not in the flexi flue
if you clean the chimney often and burn clean fuel this will help

Hi, can you please clarify why
Cresote will form in the clay pots but not in the flexi flue?

gillad

pedroeibar1 wrote: »

Thanks Gillad, your point on creosote made me do more research - my fuel is wood. I presume that the liner will heat faster/remain hotter than the clay pipe even though there would not be room for in-fill insulation.

Is it best for the flexiliner run to the top of the flue? Some websites suggest that it is best to have it just half way up…

Also, an installer site states that ‘Due to building regulations we now only install 150 mm flexible flue liners’ - this seems odd when the designed outlet for the stove is 200mm.

Its always best to run the flex flue the whole length of the chimney.Its probably best for your wallet to run it only halfway up but its not as safe...the infill insulation is not essential as the flexi flue is doing the job,so it is only recommended in an extra cold chimney..i.e a chimey on an external wall.
I haven't heard anything about the 150mm flexi flue regulations so i cant advise you on that.....has your stove a 200mm outlet?....if it has then the flexi flue must be 200mm

gillad

MAJJ wrote: »

Hi, can you please clarify why
Cresote will form in the clay pots but not in the flexi flue?

Hot air rises/Hot smoke rises
When you cool it down it slows down and lingers in your chimney.The hot smoke from the stove hitting a cold clay pot slows and this is when it deposits tar and condensation on the clay pot.....this doesn't happen with an open fire as a lot of heat is going up the chimney keeping it warm,,,,it is a stove problem
With a flexi flue, the chimney heats up quick and keeps the smoke hot and moving up and out of your house.

MAJJ

gillad wrote: »

Hot air rises/Hot smoke rises
When you cool it down it slows down and lingers in your chimney.The hot smoke from the stove hitting a cold clay pot slows and this is when it deposits tar and condensation on the clay pot.....this doesn't happen with an open fire as a lot of heat is going up the chimney keeping it warm,,,,it is a stove problem
With a flexi flue, the chimney heats up quick and keeps the smoke hot and moving up and out of your house.

Thanks it was a genuine question as had a vitae 6kw stove and flue lined installed a few days ago.Was told about the less than 20% timber and not to use anything else due to creosote forming in the flexible flue.

CD2017

chuck eastwood wrote: »

To be fair if your architect is any use at all he should be able to easily spec the sizing of all rads and outputs needed per room. After that you should go directly to the likes of stanley stoves but from personal experience the show rooms in builder's providers will not give you the info you need as i found having wasted a huge amount of time. Are you using a system link set up or have you sat down with your plumber to discuss options yet. In fairness between the architect and plumber they should be able to recommend KW output

Hi, sorry I should have said, the house is in an estate, we only get a say on a few things with the house so no architect to speak of just the builder. The builder is very helpful though so if there is anything he could do for us now to make things easier in the long run the I can ask him.

soap1978

Should there be a gap around flue at top

pedroeibar1

gillad wrote: »

Its always best to run the flex flue the whole length of the chimney.Its probably best for your wallet to run it only halfway up but its not as safe...the infill insulation is not essential as the flexi flue is doing the job,so it is only recommended in an extra cold chimney..i.e a chimey on an external wall.
I haven't heard anything about the 150mm flexi flue regulations so i cant advise you on that.....has your stove a 200mm outlet?....if it has then the flexi flue must be 200mm

Thanks gillad. The top vent is 197mm so I’ll use a 200mm liner for the full length. The chimney is on an internal wall. Is the liner fitted from the top down usually? Would it be wise to have a solid SS pipe for a metre or so at the stove end abd then fit the flexi??

gillad

pedroeibar1 wrote: »

Thanks gillad. The top vent is 197mm so I’ll use a 200mm liner for the full length. The chimney is on an internal wall. Is the liner fitted from the top down usually? Would it be wise to have a solid SS pipe for a metre or so at the stove end abd then fit the flexi??

You cant fit the flexi straight to the stove so a metre or more of ss is usual.
The flexi can be fitted top down or vice versa,,what ever is easier.

You mentioned that you would prefer an inset stove,I wouldn't recommend one as they can go wrong with the heat being lost up the chimney.they look good and fit into existing fireplaces but heat wise a freestanding stove is the best source of heat....If you want an inset then a boiler inset is better because the heat is caught in the water and brought to the rads.

pedroeibar1

gillad wrote: »

You cant fit the flexi straight to the stove so a metre or more of ss is usual.
The flexi can be fitted top down or vice versa,,what ever is easier.

You mentioned that you would prefer an inset stove,I wouldn't recommend one as they can go wrong with the heat being lost up the chimney.they look good and fit into existing fireplaces but heat wise a freestanding stove is the best source of heat....If you want an inset then a boiler inset is better because the heat is caught in the water and brought to the rads.

Aaaaaaagh Gillad, You’ve put me back to the drawing board……….:mad::mad::)
I don’t want a boiler stove as I have underfloor heating and it would be impossible to plumb one in. The room is almost 100 M3 with big windows so 7kw minimum.

I started out looking for a ‘horizontal’ freestanding rear vent stove measuring max size of mm 700 x 530 x 400 (W x H x D) as I would prefer to keep the existing fireplace if possible. I also believed that freestanding would have better convection and radiated heat. But an output of 10kw remains the same whether it is insert or freestanding, so I presume there is more fuel required for an insert to reach and maintain that output?

I switched to looking at insert stoves because I could not find a freestanding one that would look good against the fireplace. The most appropriate insert types are Cassette stoves.(Also, my logsplitter takes up to 400mm so most of my logs are 350-380mm.)

Are you aware of any freestanding stove that is more horizontal than vertical? Otherwise I need to rethink pulling out the fireplace which is sure to break.

gillad

pedroeibar1 wrote: »

Aaaaaaagh Gillad, You’ve put me back to the drawing board……….:mad::mad::)
I don’t want a boiler stove as I have underfloor heating and it would be impossible to plumb one in. The room is almost 100 M3 with big windows so 7kw minimum.

I started out looking for a ‘horizontal’ freestanding rear vent stove measuring max size of mm 700 x 530 x 400 (W x H x D) as I would prefer to keep the existing fireplace if possible. I also believed that freestanding would have better convection and radiated heat. But an output of 10kw remains the same whether it is insert or freestanding, so I presume there is more fuel required for an insert to reach and maintain that output?

I switched to looking at insert stoves because I could not find a freestanding one that would look good against the fireplace. The most appropriate insert types are Cassette stoves.(Also, my logsplitter takes up to 400mm so most of my logs are 350-380mm.)

Are you aware of any freestanding stove that is more horizontal than vertical? Otherwise I need to rethink pulling out the fireplace which is sure to break.

If you can insulate the cassette type stove and stop the heat from going up the chimney or into the surrounding blockwork then it will work fine because the only place for the heat to go then is into your room....with some careful thought by you and the installer you can get an inset to work at full capacity

read the thread here called "stove not heating room"....the problem stoves are inset stoves

pedroeibar1

Thanks gillad, I appreciate the time you’ve spent on this.

Currently the fireplace has a precast ‘hood’ with a central flue so there is room for the top of an insert stove to be heavily insulated. At present ope size is 550mm high x 620 wide x 460 deep. If necessary it can be made 200mm wider by the removal of the firebricks on either side (behind them is solid concrete) so there would be room to use insulation material.

I think I will research 10kw freestanding stoves again and see what seems feasible, then make a hardboard mock-up and see how it looks against the fireplace.

Zebrano

Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr

Hi all
Can some on recommend A multi fuel stove that would be suitable for this fireplace.
No back boiler needed
Room is about 17sqm
No permanent vent in room
What would a rough cost be
Thanks
Zebrano

Stovepipe

Can anyone recommend a good vendor for a mantlepiece for a freestanding stove? we have to take down our wooden fire surround because it is too close to the stove.

regards
Stovepipe

taytobreath

Is it possible to upgrade from a Stanley oisin to a bigger stove without having to alter the part where the chimney connects to the back of the stove.
If the back connection is a different height then the Stanley oisin then that's a big undertaking to go and alter that.

MAJJ

Zebrano wrote: »

Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr

Hi all
Can some on recommend A multi fuel stove that would be suitable for this fireplace.
No back boiler needed
Room is about 17sqm
No permanent vent in room
What would a rough cost be
Thanks
Zebrano

Maybe a heat design vitae? I have one in a similar fire place, went in recently not used much yet.

Kalyke

Is it OK ask for recommendations for installers here?