STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

t8010789

I’m interested in putting a wood burning stove into my front room. The house is a 1950s semi d and we have recently finished modernising it with wet underfloor heating, windows, electrics and internal insulation. The house is not airtight but it’s far better than when we bought it. I have seen stoves with full or partial external air, would this sound like a safer/better option? It would require a bit of work to get a pipe to the external wall but doable, I also think the chimney will need to be relined.

upupup

mrtom wrote: »

yes, issue also with windows open, good point though notice strong draught at air intake on the video clip.

You have a very good draught.
There is info in the pdf about the tertiary air system which requires a seal to be removed when burning wood.When burning smokeless coal the seal needs to go back in.I dont know anything about this tertiarty system but its worth checking out.
Have you tried burning smokeless coal?

t8010789

t8010789 wrote: »

I’m interested in putting a wood burning stove into my front room. The house is a 1950s semi d and we have recently finished modernising it with wet underfloor heating, windows, electrics and internal insulation. The house is not airtight but it’s far better than when we bought it. I have seen stoves with full or partial external air, would this sound like a safer/better option? It would require a bit of work to get a pipe to the external wall but doable, I also think the chimney will need to be relined.

Photos attached

Muahahaha

Forge83 wrote: »

Don’t use a wire brush as you will damage the bricks.
A normal fireside brush is all that should be used.
Another alternative would be an Ash Vacuum.

Thanks Forge. Had looked at ash vacuums but they all seem to be pretty big units that I dont have the storage space for. Hopefully something smaller comes on the market at some stage. A friend used their normal vacuum last year and completely knackered it by hoovering up ash, doh!

mrtom

upupup wrote: »

You have a very good draught.
There is info in the pdf about the tertiary air system which requires a seal to be removed when burning wood.When burning smokeless coal the seal needs to go back in.I dont know anything about this tertiarty system but its worth checking out.
Have you tried burning smokeless coal?

I do use smokless Ovoids, the tertiary air system "injects" air down into the fire from the back to ignite the unburnt gasses.

At this point I'm beginning to suspect the issue is the design of the stove. The "door" being the entire front of the unit. I contacted the UK company that supply the Irish market and they suggested I use the top exhaust rather than the rear exhaust which in my case would be too destructive for my fireplace.
I'v had "qualified" engineers look at it with various suggestions about low pressure zones, spinning cowls & raising the chimney however when they measured the draught with specialized vacuum tools and find the draught is strong (which negates these solutions), they are stumped!

I was hoping this forum may have something to add.

Thanks for taking the time to read the pdf upupup!

Uriel.

mrtom wrote: »

I do use smokless Ovoids, the tertiary air system "injects" air down into the fire from the back to ignite the unburnt gasses.

At this point I'm beginning to suspect the issue is the design of the stove. The "door" being the entire front of the unit. I contacted the UK company that supply the Irish market and they suggested I use the top exhaust rather than the rear exhaust which in my case would be too destructive for my fireplace.
I'v had "qualified" engineers look at it with various suggestions about low pressure zones, spinning cowls & raising the chimney however when they measured the draught with specialized vacuum tools and find the draught is strong (which negates these solutions), they are stumped!

I was hoping this forum may have something to add.

Thanks for taking the time to read the pdf upupup!

I've same issue with my Riva 55
The installers called out 3 times to look at it, fitted a chimney/flu extension. Huge draw in it when grate open fully, like it's about to take off and yet every time you open the door to refuel you get a waft of smoke back into the room. Whether windows or opened or not. The experts are completely stumped and tried a number of things. Unfortunately we just have to live with it.

steamsey

Hi - just checking if anyone has experience with a Heat Design Vitae 6kw? Hadn't heard of the brand before.

Also in terms of fitting costs - I'm being quoted (ex VAT) - 530 liner (2 storey house), 170 building materials and parts, 600 labour. In greater Dublin area. Sound OK? Standard fireplace opening.

Forge83

steamsey wrote: »

Hi - just checking if anyone has experience with a Heat Design Vitae 6kw? Hadn't heard of the brand before.

Also in terms of fitting costs - I'm being quoted (ex VAT) - 530 liner (2 storey house), 170 building materials and parts, 600 labour. In greater Dublin area. Sound OK? Standard fireplace opening.

One of the best selling stoves in the country.
Standard 2 storey with ladder access?
Is the Flexi 316 grade or 904 grade?
Labour cost is reasonable for Dublin.

steamsey

Forge83 wrote: »

One of the best selling stoves in the country.
Standard 2 storey with ladder access?
Is the Flexi 316 grade or 904 grade?
Labour cost is reasonable for Dublin.

Standard 2 storey, good ladder access. No idea about the flexi, which should I be asking for?

Thanks

Forge83

steamsey wrote: »

Standard 2 storey, good ladder access. No idea about the flexi, which should I be asking for?

Thanks

Ok. So I would assume the cost doesn’t include a hoist if good ladder access.
If the Flexi price is for 904 grade it’s about right. If it’s for 316 grade it’s very expensive. Should only cost around €380-€450, especially if other fitting materials are included in the €170 for building materials.

But as I said, he could have charged you less for materials and asked for €800-€900 for installation and still been fair for a Dublin installation. So overall it’s about right.

seanmh

I'm looking to install a wood burning stove into a new build which is airtight. The flue will come out vertically above the stove, through the plasterboard ceiling, through the attic space and out through the roof.

I've been told I need a ventilated fire stop place in the ceiling which will damage my air tightness obviously.

Are there any solutions which could maintain the airtightness?

House has mechanical ventilation and stove takes air from outside for the burning.

Cheers

rebeve

TRying to get a few parts for a Henley Apollo , the spare parts shop never seem to have what I need .Anyone know if spares are available elsewhere .

Forge83

rebeve wrote: »

TRying to get a few parts for a Henley Apollo , the spare parts shop never seem to have what I need .Anyone know if spares are available elsewhere .

Your local retailer can order them directly into the shop.

Mickiemcfist

Hi all, wondering if anyone has any suggestions as to how to widen the opening by about 200mm to accommodate a free standing stove.

The remaining blocks look structural to me?

Mickiemcfist

Hi all, wondering if anyone has any suggestions as to how to widen the opening by about 200mm to accommodate a free standing stove.

The remaining blocks look structural to me?

Mickiemcfist

Hi all, wondering if anyone has any suggestions as to how to widen the opening by about 200mm to accommodate a free standing stove.

The remaining blocks look structural to me?

upupup

Mickiemcfist wrote: »

Hi all, wondering if anyone has any suggestions as to how to widen the opening by about 200mm to accommodate a free standing stove.

The remaining blocks look structural to me?

The blocks are holding up your entire chimney stack and the lintel is already cracked.It is safe as it is.If you want to widen the ope then another longer lintel needs to be inserted above the existing one which is a complicated job that needs an expert in construction.
Get this post moved to the construction forum

Mickiemcfist

upupup wrote: »

The blocks are holding up your entire chimney stack and the lintel is already cracked.It is safe as it is.If you want to widen the ope then another longer lintel needs to be inserted above the existing one which is a complicated job that needs an expert in construction.
Get this post moved to the construction forum

Yea that's what I was thinking, it's not as straightforward as I'd hoped before I pulled the fireplace off. Waiting on 2 quotes at the minute

easypazz

Mickiemcfist wrote: »

Yea that's what I was thinking, it's not as straightforward as I'd hoped before I pulled the fireplace off. Waiting on 2 quotes at the minute

Why not put the stove in front of the fireplace.

ike

Mickiemcfist wrote: »

Hi all, wondering if anyone has any suggestions as to how to widen the opening by about 200mm to accommodate a free standing stove.

The remaining blocks look structural to me?

We got this done a few years ago...I got someone to do it its much better job than sticking the stove in front of it...Messy work but worth it

Some photos if your interested

Mugser

Does the f&e tank for a multi-fuel boiler stove loop need to be copper or stainless as opposed to plastic?

easypazz

ike wrote: »

We got this done a few years ago...I got someone to do it its much better job than sticking the stove in front of it...Messy work but worth it

Some photos if your interested

Tasty job.

steamsey

steamsey wrote: »

Hi - just checking if anyone has experience with a Heat Design Vitae 6kw? Hadn't heard of the brand before.

Also in terms of fitting costs - I'm being quoted (ex VAT) - 530 liner (2 storey house), 170 building materials and parts, 600 labour. In greater Dublin area. Sound OK? Standard fireplace opening.

Just a follow up on this. Went with the Heat Design Vitae 6kw (with the 904 grade liner). Very happy with it having had it for about 6 weeks or so. Gives off great heat, especially with stove coal. Beds down well for the night and still warm the next morning. Easy to clean & operate. Installer did a great job, if anyone wants a recommendation, PM me. Dublin / Wicklow area.

JJs Left Hand

Hi, I'm planning on installing a freestanding Stovax Vogue Midi T in my house with no chimney so flue straight up through the roof. Flue will need to extend anywhere between 1 and 2 metres above the line of the roof.

Has anyone who has done similar had any issues with a flue in the wind when it's at this height or had any leaks around the flue?

Irish Gunner

Miss Gunner wants stove installed in our house. Wants a wood burner

Shopping around and only visited mcd home and garden and waiting for quote.

I'm just wondering with all the eco stuff will burning of anything be banned in years to come and better getting gas stove.

Forge83

Irish Gunner wrote: »

Miss Gunner wants stove installed in our house. Wants a wood burner

Shopping around and only visited mcd home and garden and waiting for quote.

I'm just wondering with all the eco stuff will burning of anything be banned in years to come and better getting gas stove.

Quality dried timber is the only fuel that will be advisable to burn in the future. In Dublin there are plenty of suppliers so you should be safe enough.

easypazz

Irish Gunner wrote: »

Miss Gunner wants stove installed in our house. Wants a wood burner

Shopping around and only visited mcd home and garden and waiting for quote.

I'm just wondering with all the eco stuff will burning of anything be banned in years to come and better getting gas stove.

Gas is now being spoken of as a medium term transition fuel, so in theory that will be banned eventually.

Timber will still be allowed after gas.

In any case there will be a slow transition over the next 10 years or so, and your stove will be fully depreciated by then.

And according to Greta we will all die in 10 years anyway.

olestoepoke

Hey guys looking for advice on a back boiler stove installation. Ive been told that a system link heat genie needs to be installed with it. Ive contacted a few plumbers and none of them seemed confident about installing it. Or are there other options apart from the system link? Any reccomendations on companies or plumbers that a experienced in installing stoves with back boiler via system link? Thanks and PM me of course as per the rules.

Squatman

hi guys, looking for advice on a stove install. Ive used fire cement to seal the back of the stove to the Stainless steel flue liner, and also, the stainless steel connection pipe to the flexi section. the cement on the pipe to flexi section has now cracked after 2 fires, and fallen off. , and secondly the is a smell of soot in the room (i have carbon monoxide alarm in the room near stove, but the stove isnt fully plastered into place (its bolted to the ground, but i wanted to be sure of the fire before i built up around the stove) will the smell of soot go away when its fully installed? and what sealer should i have used around the stainless steel pipe.? ( the flue liner is in place, with vermiculite around the liner)

iphone6

Hi I'm thinking of getting an arada I500 stove to heat the sitting room, I'd be hoping I get get it 16inchs off the ground and sit in where the older fire was. It's all to do with accommodating a tv over the fire place. And currently not able to do this.

Has anyone any pros or cons on what I'm doing or the stove I'm looking at arada or best place to buy. Thanks

The picture below gives an idea what I'm trying to achieve

Forge83

iphone6 wrote: »

Hi I'm thinking of getting an arada I500 stove to heat the sitting room, I'd be hoping I get get it 16inchs off the ground and sit in where the older fire was. It's all to do with accommodating a tv over the fire place. And currently not able to do this.

Has anyone any pros or cons on what I'm doing or the stove I'm looking at arada or best place to buy. Thanks

The picture below gives an idea what I'm trying to achieve

How high you can raise the stove will all depend on the position of the chimney lentil and flue gatherer. If these need to be raised it’s a very big job.

As for the stove, Arada in general is a strong brand but their cassette stoves have never taken off here in Ireland. Would suggest looking at a Heat Design Vitae or a Hota Ares as very popular, good quality and good value.

shanec1928

looking at https://www.heatdesign.ie/product/heat-design-insert-boiler-stove/ to replace our fire with back boiler that has called it quits. we have 13 rads with 3 of them permanently off, are we better to go with the 18 or the 25kw? also aprox cost am i looking at for the stove in question.

Squatman

Hi guys, would any of you have an idea of how much this range is worth. Oil burner 10kwh. Or what model no. It is

Forge83

Squatman wrote: »

Hi guys, would any of you have an idea of how much this range is worth. Oil burner 10kwh. Or what model no. It is

Stanley Errigal.
There isn’t a massive market for oil ranges so what it’s worth won’t match what you will get.

failover

Hi All,

I'd really appreciate some advice on these two stove setup scenarios. I have read through this thread as much as possible but it's huge!

Scenario 1
I want to put a stove with back boiler into my house. My house is a 3-storey townhouse style. The stove will be on the ground floor but the hot water cylinder is on the top (second floor). I currently have gas central heating which heats water and rads. I'd like the stove to do the same (heat water and rads) but to work in conjunction with the gas central heating system (e.g. gas to heat water only in warm weather). A plumber told me it's not possible to fit a boiler stove in this situation as the pipes will be banging like crazy, a huge pump would be required and the water would also lose its heat by the time it got to the cylinder. I want to use a boiler stove because I have access to turf.

Scenario 2 (more of a question really)
Can I put a boiler stove on a ground floor with a water cylinder, and then run underfloor heating off it, along with hot water? I'm wondering because there is no gravity fall to circulate the water. Its quite a large area to heat so I'd love to be able to plumb it into the existing underfloor heating (runs on an oil burner and so far seems to be HUGELY inefficient and expensive), and maybe add some rads to facilitate quick warming up of the space.

Thanks in advance for any advice!

corks finest

easypazz wrote: »

Why not put the stove in front of the fireplace.

Or get a smaller one?

shanec1928

shanec1928 wrote: »

looking at https://www.heatdesign.ie/product/heat-design-insert-boiler-stove/ to replace our fire with back boiler that has called it quits. we have 13 rads with 3 of them permanently off, are we better to go with the 18 or the 25kw? also aprox cost am i looking at for the stove in question.

anyone?

upupup

shanec1928 wrote: »

anyone?

You can find out how many kw you need herehttps://www.heatdesign.ie/calculator/

upupup

failover wrote: »

Hi All,

I'd really appreciate some advice on these two stove setup scenarios. I have read through this thread as much as possible but it's huge!

Scenario 1
I want to put a stove with back boiler into my house. My house is a 3-storey townhouse style. The stove will be on the ground floor but the hot water cylinder is on the top (second floor). I currently have gas central heating which heats water and rads. I'd like the stove to do the same (heat water and rads) but to work in conjunction with the gas central heating system (e.g. gas to heat water only in warm weather). A plumber told me it's not possible to fit a boiler stove in this situation as the pipes will be banging like crazy, a huge pump would be required and the water would also lose its heat by the time it got to the cylinder. I want to use a boiler stove because I have access to turf.

Scenario 2 (more of a question really)
Can I put a boiler stove on a ground floor with a water cylinder, and then run underfloor heating off it, along with hot water? I'm wondering because there is no gravity fall to circulate the water. Its quite a large area to heat so I'd love to be able to plumb it into the existing underfloor heating (runs on an oil burner and so far seems to be HUGELY inefficient and expensive), and maybe add some rads to facilitate quick warming up of the space.

Thanks in advance for any advice!

Scenario 2 will work fine.A pump will circulate the water under the floor.

sternn

We are getting a stove in place of our current fireplace. We are looking at a bog standard stove that has an output of around 6kw to heat the room. One place we went to has given a quote of €1,200 + VAT for a Wanders Marvic and around €2,800 + VAT for installation (with geo cast beam). Does this seem about right?

We want a pretty basic stove but there seems to be so much choice on the market. I was also looking at the Henley Achill 6.6kw which seems to retail at around €900 including VAT. Any recommendations here?

upupup

sternn wrote: »

We are getting a stove in place of our current fireplace. We are looking at a bog standard stove that has an output of around 6kw to heat the room. One place we went to has given a quote of €1,200 + VAT for a Wanders Marvic and around €2,800 + VAT for installation (with geo cast beam). Does this seem about right?

We want a pretty basic stove but there seems to be so much choice on the market. I was also looking at the Henley Achill 6.6kw which seems to retail at around €900 including VAT. Any recommendations here?

the stanley oisin is a great stove,I had one for years and only got rid of it because i needed a boiler stove.
https://www.google.com/search?q=stanley+oisin&rlz=1C1CHBF_enIE750IE750&oq=s&aqs=chrome.1.69i60j69i59l3j69i57j69i60l2j69i61.2111j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Forge83

sternn wrote: »

We are getting a stove in place of our current fireplace. We are looking at a bog standard stove that has an output of around 6kw to heat the room. One place we went to has given a quote of €1,200 + VAT for a Wanders Marvic and around €2,800 + VAT for installation (with geo cast beam). Does this seem about right?

We want a pretty basic stove but there seems to be so much choice on the market. I was also looking at the Henley Achill 6.6kw which seems to retail at around €900 including VAT. Any recommendations here?

The wanders is mainly wood burning. Pretty rare brand so seems like a very high end shop you visited.
You would have to break down the installation cost but it does seem very high. What county are you based in?

Henley Achill 6.6kw is an extremely popular stove.

olestoepoke

upupup wrote: »

the stanley oisin is a great stove,I had one for years and only got rid of it because i needed a boiler stove.
https://www.google.com/search?q=stanley+oisin&rlz=1C1CHBF_enIE750IE750&oq=s&aqs=chrome.1.69i60j69i59l3j69i57j69i60l2j69i61.2111j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

If you don't mind me asking, how was your boiler stove installed? I have one I will need installed soon and I'm told ill need a systemslink.

upupup

olestoepoke wrote: »

If you don't mind me asking, how was your boiler stove installed? I have one I will need installed soon and I'm told ill need a systemslink.

I installed it myself.I got rid of the oil burner and redirected the pipes to the stove,very simple and basic.
I don't know anything about a systemlink but stoves do not need any electrical monitors/controls as the only control you have is air and a bigger/smaller stick or a shovel of coal.Shop around and get a few plumbers to advise/price and you will figure it out.

vicwatson

Had a multi fuel stove fitted recently, can anyone tell me how to "break it in"?

Apparently light small kindling with a log or something?

Does it smoke and smell bad?

TIA for an advice on what to do here

CaptainCoPilot

vicwatson wrote: »

Had a multi fuel stove fitted recently, can anyone tell me how to "break it in"?

Apparently light small kindling with a log or something?

Does it smoke and smell bad?

TIA for an advice on what to do here

Just light a small fire with kindling and add a bit of a split log to it and leave burn. No coal or turf. The intent of this is to cure the fire cement that has probably been used on connections of the flue before putting significant heat in it.

vicwatson

CaptainCoPilot wrote: »

Just light a small fire with kindling and add a bit of a split log to it and leave burn. No coal or turf. The intent of this is to cure the fire cement that has probably been used on connections of the flue before putting significant heat in it.

Will there be much of a smell off it? I'll evacuate the room anyway and open windows etc.

bootser

vicwatson wrote: »

Will there be much of a smell off it? I'll evacuate the room anyway and open windows etc.

I had my Stanley Cara installed a couple of years ago and after the first light-up had to evacuate the house the smell was terrible!! BUT after that it was fine and going strong since:)

shanec1928

would a firelog be sufficient or would you need something a bit more substantial?

jm08

A firelog would be fine.