STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

cathy427

Car99 wrote: »

a bit of re bar

Thanks,
not sure what that is -
What would I be asking for in the shop for that?

Bass Reeves

vicwatson wrote: »

I find the glass gets dirty easily unless I have top damper open a good bit (this with birch, burned oak before and didn’t have as much an issue, much easier to control)

I do not really worry about how clean or sorry the glass is. Not sure about the Cara but a lot of older stoves have no air wash system to keep glass clean. It something with an older stove I would not worry about. If Wood is good and dry you will need virtually no air to burn it.

Car99

cathy427 wrote: »

Thanks,
not sure what that is -
What would I be asking for in the shop for that?

Rebar is stell bar used to reinforce concrete its every where and is very cheap. Do you know anyone that works on a building site? That's your best bet .

Bass Reeves

cathy427 wrote: »

Thanks,
not sure what that is -
What would I be asking for in the shop for that?

Rebar means reinforceing bar. It used to reinforce concrete. It usually sold in 20' lengths so not really something sold in a shop.

If there is a small engineering/ steel fabrication or welding outfit near you they should be able to sort you with a small piece of steel that will block the home in grate. A builder or farmer may have a piece as well

Irish Gunner

Ok reading through the posts to try and find answers which I am sure is somewhere, still searching

We got a Henley CAMBRIDGE 5kW - Black installed in the summer and only beginning to light it recently

https://mcdhomeandgarden.ie/stoves/16-henley-cambridge-5kw-multi-fuel-stove-freestanding.html

Got 10 bags of Kiln Dried Logs from Monahans and just using these.

So kindles and Firelights to get it started and I am not a twisted Firestarter but learning

So get it started and leave door ajar to get it lit up and then leave air vent open at the bottom and the leaver a the top to the right then once lit up add Wood but leave vents as is.

Anywho the glass regularly picks up heat and goes black.

So do we need to leave vents open to stop this or anything different we should be doing to become a Firestarter twisted Firestarter and prevent glass going black?

Thanks

limnam

Whats the moisture level of the wood?

Purgative

cathy427 wrote: »

Thanks,
not sure what that is -
What would I be asking for in the shop for that?

Cathy, my local builders merchant (in Mayo) will cut it to length for you - I'm sure we're not unique.


Good luck.

Irish Gunner

limnam wrote: »

Whats the moisture level of the wood?

Not sure

Stored out the back in Plastic container box so not sure if rain/ cold having any affect on them?

Purgative

Irish Gunner wrote: »

.....

So get it started and leave door ajar to get it lit up and then leave air vent open at the bottom and the leaver a the top to the right then once lit up add Wood but leave vents as is.

Anywho the glass regularly picks up heat and goes black.

So do we need to leave vents open to stop this or anything different we should be doing to become a Firestarter twisted Firestarter and prevent glass going black?

Thanks

Hi IG. We shut the door as soon as we've lit to allow it to draw from underneath. The bottom vent will make it burn hotter and faster so its a bit of a balancing act, but we don't open the door other than to add fuel.


Our glass goes black. Its black now. We don't worry unless someone is coming round (not these days of course) and then we give it a bit of a clean up.

limnam

Irish Gunner wrote: »

Not sure

Stored out the back in Plastic container box so not sure if rain/ cold having any affect on them?

Depends how long they're there, how much sun/wind they get and what the content was when they were stored originally.


the higher the content the more "smoke" and the dirtier the glass can get.


There's other reasons but that's a fairly common one.


even kindling with high moisture content will do it.

Gruffalux

Going mad here. Stanley range. 15 years no trouble. I gave it an ordinary clean out yesterday, scraped ashes soot etc on sides of oven box, the usual clean. Did not light until evening so it was off for 12 hours plus low fire during night. I am guessing chimney went cold. It is very cold outside. Big smoke issues last night when I lit. Left it go out. Since 6am I have been battling the beast. Big fires with good dry wood vents open to try heat chimney and reverse whatever pressure issue has happened. Works fine with vents open. Gobbles through the wood. Close damper - endless smoke and fire hardly draws at all. I smell like a gypsy, me eyes are sore and 8 hours into battle I am wondering wtf can I do here? Help please.

Purgative

Gruff when did you last have your chimney cleaned?

Gruffalux

Purgative wrote: »

Gruff when did you last have your chimney cleaned?

In early Spring. It was fairly clean he said anyway. I have hardly used any coal this year either except in December.
Thanks for reply. The big difference is the stove clean, the fire out for unusual time (12 hours) and the very low temps outside.

Gruffalux

My instinct is cold air has got into chimney and is stopping draw...?

Irish Gunner

Purgative wrote: »

Hi IG. We shut the door as soon as we've lit to allow it to draw from underneath. The bottom vent will make it burn hotter and faster so its a bit of a balancing act, but we don't open the door other than to add fuel.


Our glass goes black. Its black now. We don't worry unless someone is coming round (not these days of course) and then we give it a bit of a clean up.

Thanks yeah no visitors to ours but Miss Gunner wondering how to keep it clean

I only leave it slightly ajar to build flame and then close it and leave the bottom air vent open and top leaver is to the left so think that is open

limnam wrote: »

Depends how long they're there, how much sun/wind they get and what the content was when they were stored originally.


the higher the content the more "smoke" and the dirtier the glass can get.


There's other reasons but that's a fairly common one.


even kindling with high moisture content will do it.

Well no Sun in Ireland Kept in shed and bunker and who knows where Monahan's had them stored

Maybe its just a given, glass will go black in the grand scheme of things not a Biggie or even a Tupac

Just wipe it off when it does ....obviously not when lit

Thanks

Mickeroo

Dip a wet cloth in the ash and wipe the glass to get it off, handiest way I find and no faffing about with sprays or anything.

Also when you have the fire lit and going well try closing the bottom air vent altogether, you should get better heat from wood by doing this as it burns better when the air is coming from above. You should be able control how strong it's burning with the top vent for the most part, though you may occasionally need to open the bottom briefly when you stick a new log on to get it to flame up.

mrtom

whodafunk wrote: »

Hi All,

I recently purchased a Stanley Cara insert stove. According to the instructions it's 6.5KW output. I used it to mainly burn peat briquettes and wood (good quality). To be honest even after playing about with the controls I don't find that it throws out huge amount of heat - primary air supply open (for max heat) and secondary air supply (open) and spin valve fully open - to give best heat output but also burns quicker. Any ideas am I doing anything wrong? Should I be burning stove coal for better heat output or is it just a case this it a low output stove? Really hoping this is not the case.

Thank you

There is a mysterious art to mastering air controls for the best heat & combustion. Though I follow the basics, after years with my tripple air supply stove I'm never sure if I'v got the subtly just right!
Any tips out there...

Purgative

Gruffalux wrote: »

In early Spring. It was fairly clean he said anyway. I have hardly used any coal this year either except in December.

So what fuel do you use, or have you just not had the stove on?

Thanks for reply. The big difference is the stove clean, the fire out for unusual time (12 hours) and the very low temps outside.

Humm meh, that saying about correlation and causation. Did you take that reflector plate (not the correct name) and did it go back correctly?

Gruffalux wrote: »

My instinct is cold air has got into chimney and is stopping draw...?

No expert - but I'm not a fan of that theory. It does sound to me as if you are not getting enough of a draw from the chimney. Does the chimney have a cowl? Is it accessible / frequented by birds?


I tell you why I don't like your cold chimney thing. We used to heat entirely with solid fuel but then about 5 years ago got an A2W pump. So now the stove goes on whenever we feel like it or not. Spring and Autumn its 4 days off 2 days on. Never a problem lighting it.

Gruffalux

Purgative wrote: »

So what fuel do you use, or have you just not had the stove on?






Humm meh, that saying about correlation and causation. Did you take that reflector plate (not the correct name) and did it go back correctly?








No expert - but I'm not a fan of that theory. It does sound to me as if you are not getting enough of a draw from the chimney. Does the chimney have a cowl? Is it accessible / frequented by birds?


I tell you why I don't like your cold chimney thing. We used to heat entirely with solid fuel but then about 5 years ago got an A2W pump. So now the stove goes on whenever we feel like it or not. Spring and Autumn its 4 days off 2 days on. Never a problem lighting it.

Thanks for reply.
Most of year is mix of seasoned hard and soft wood.
In colder times I add briquettes. In coldest times I add smokeless coal. It is never not used as it is heat, water, rads and cooking. It dies down overnight except in winter where there will be embers to start on (i cannot bear too warm sleeping). It has never given me this trouble. I have a damn headache now with trying to fix it. I am afraid also I might have banged off some part inside while cleaning it that has changed the draw - thats my other theory. I dont think it is dirty chimney as up to yesterday and the cleaning/cooling completely.. it was perfect.

Purgative

Gruffalux wrote: »

Thanks for reply.
Most of year is mix of seasoned hard and soft wood.
In colder times I add briquettes. In coldest times I add smokeless coal. It is never not used as it is heat, water, rads and cooking. It dies down overnight except in winter where there will be embers to start on (i cannot bear too warm sleeping). It has never given me this trouble. I have a damn headache now with trying to fix it. I am afraid also I might have banged off some part inside while cleaning it that has changed the draw - thats my other theory. I dont think it is dirty chimney as up to yesterday and the cleaning/cooling completely.. it was perfect.

I like that theory better than the other one.



No I don't think its a dirty chimney but I think you have ended up with something restricting the draw. Does yours resemble the picture in MrToms post?


If all was well with the chimney you should be able light a sheet of newspaper, shut the door and trot outside to see a wisp of smoke.

Gruffalux

Purgative wrote: »

I like that theory better than the other one.



No I don't think its a dirty chimney but I think you have ended up with something restricting the draw. Does yours resemble the picture in MrToms post?


If all was well with the chimney you should be able light a sheet of newspaper, shut the door and trot outside to see a wisp of smoke.

Thanks Purgative. There are small signs I might be winning. I can leave damper closed for longer without smoke or with less smoke, fire burns a bit better, still leaky but leakiness lessening. The chimney might be warming. I will be handing over the beasts reigns in a hour - I will try battle again tomorrow!

Gruffalux

To conclude the story of my travails, my husband discovered I had dislodged and then missed clearing a clump of soot and ashes and thus blocked the proper movement of smoke around the oven and out the chimney. He fixed it in a few minutes of carefulness. He has been quite good not to gloat too much about my 2 day stove fiasco, though I owe him, apparently. Mixed emotions. Am very glad to be warm again and yet sad to be proved incompetent.
Thanks to Purgative for help.

limnam

Mickeroo wrote: »

Dip a wet cloth in the ash and wipe the glass to get it off, handiest way I find and no faffing about with sprays or anything.

Also when you have the fire lit and going well try closing the bottom air vent altogether, you should get better heat from wood by doing this as it burns better when the air is coming from above. You should be able control how strong it's burning with the top vent for the most part, though you may occasionally need to open the bottom briefly when you stick a new log on to get it to flame up.

I've heard wiping with ash can cause small scratches that make the glass weaker over time.

Must look into it a bit more as it is a handy way of cleaning it

vicwatson

limnam wrote: »

I've heard wiping with ash can cause small scratches that make the glass weaker over time.

Must look into it a bit more as it is a handy way of cleaning it

Ash from wood or briquettes is perfectly fine.

Wouldn’t go scraping the glass with bits of left over coal that might not have burned off.

Joe-Bloggs

If this isn't the right place to post this let me know.

I have a Hunter Herald 14 solid fuel stove that was put in 10 years ago and I'm looking into possibly changing it. I looked at heat pump systems but they're too expensive at the moment. Someone told me there could be a possibility to change it to a wood pellet stove, is that correct? And could anyone point me in the right direction or suggest where to get more information? Thanks

HG stove glass cleaner is animal stuff.
Spray ,wait and wipe.
No scrubbing at all.
I

CHOPS01

Joe-Bloggs wrote: »

If this isn't the right place to post this let me know.

I have a Hunter Herald 14 solid fuel stove that was put in 10 years ago and I'm looking into possibly changing it. I looked at heat pump systems but they're too expensive at the moment. Someone told me there could be a possibility to change it to a wood pellet stove, is that correct? And could anyone point me in the right direction or suggest where to get more information? Thanks

Pretty straight forward swap over. Only issue you might have is space. Wood pellet boiler will be quiet a bit taller than your solid fuel stove. Also you will most likely need additional depth due to the tee and plug required on the back.

Bass Reeves

Joe-Bloggs wrote: »

If this isn't the right place to post this let me know.

I have a Hunter Herald 14 solid fuel stove that was put in 10 years ago and I'm looking into possibly changing it. I looked at heat pump systems but they're too expensive at the moment. Someone told me there could be a possibility to change it to a wood pellet stove, is that correct? And could anyone point me in the right direction or suggest where to get more information? Thanks

Why are you getting rid of the stove. Is it not heating the house

Joe-Bloggs

Bass Reeves wrote: »

Why are you getting rid of the stove. Is it not heating the house

It heats the house fine, just looking for options at the moment. I'm getting tired of the mess and work it causes with the ash dust, dirt from wood and turf and having to get the turf to the house 🀣. Looking for something simpler as I get older

Odyssey 2005

Joe-Bloggs wrote: »

It heats the house fine, just looking for options at the moment. I'm getting tired of the mess and work it causes with the ash dust, dirt from wood and turf and having to get the turf to the house 🀣. Looking for something simpler as I get older

Turf is the dirtiest fuel of all.

Bass Reeves

Joe-Bloggs wrote: »

It heats the house fine, just looking for options at the moment. I'm getting tired of the mess and work it causes with the ash dust, dirt from wood and turf and having to get the turf to the house ��. Looking for something simpler as I get older

Turf is neither the cheapest or cleanest fuel. I burn mainly wood and a small bit of smokeless coal. However you need dry wood. Woodpellet stoves while vey efficient and clean are not exactly cheap run. As a room heater expect to pay about 1500 minimum for one and about 1-1.5k to fit. That presuming no major structural work is required to install the stove.

Pellet stoves cost a bit more to run as the expected reduction in the cost of pellets never materialised. As well you will have annual maintenance costs and parts cost long term. However I can understand the thinking behind your choice. One other thing to be aware of is that if the electricity. Goes out you will not have a source of heat in the house.

JCDUB

Hi all,

Very informative thread, thank you!

I couldn't see a list of installers anywhere, although I'm not sure that's allowed.

I need a 4/6kw wood burning stove fitted.

Can anybody recommend a fitter please?

PM's welcome, thanks in advance.

Irish Gunner

Irish Gunner wrote: »

Ok reading through the posts to try and find answers which I am sure is somewhere, still searching

We got a Henley CAMBRIDGE 5kW - Black installed in the summer and only beginning to light it recently

https://mcdhomeandgarden.ie/stoves/16-henley-cambridge-5kw-multi-fuel-stove-freestanding.html

Got 10 bags of Kiln Dried Logs from Monahans and just using these.

So kindles and Firelights to get it started and I am not a twisted Firestarter but learning

So get it started and leave door ajar to get it lit up and then leave air vent open at the bottom and the leaver a the top to the right then once lit up add Wood but leave vents as is.

Anywho the glass regularly picks up heat and goes black.

So do we need to leave vents open to stop this or anything different we should be doing to become a Firestarter twisted Firestarter and prevent glass going black?

Thanks

So a few things that might help you here:

1. You always start small with a stove fire and built it up gradually over the first hour. So kindling, fire lighter, 1 small log- that's it.

2. Open the vents all the way and CLOSE THE DOOR- modern stoves are designed to work with the door closed, not open. A recent tragic fire cost the lives of two elderly people because they kept their stove door open.

3. Keep the vents fully open for a good 15-20 minutes until there's a good glow to the log and the flames are dying down. Then 1/2 close the vents.

4. Add another log (small) to fire and keep doing this every 20 mins or so- but NEVER overload the stove.

After about 1.5 hours, your stove will have built up a lovely mound of glowing fuel- this is when you can consider closing down the vents even further and place a larger log onto it which should burn slower than the previous ones and give lovely gradual heat.

Depending on the logs, you may need to temporarily open up the vents again, but just until flames appear- then close them back gradually.

Always check the size of the logs you've purchased with the size of your stove- some logs will be too big to fit in to a small stove or will just barely fit, resting close to the window- again, this will invariably create the blackened window. You'll also do damage to the door seals over time.

The black window happens for a number of reasons, but mainly:

Overloaded fire and/or Logs too close to the window

It does take practice to get to know your stove but consult your manufacturers guidebook to learn about its particular vent controls.

I've had mine about 18 months now and i've greatly reduced the amount of fuel i use by knowing what the stove needs and when but it took time-

limnam

limnam wrote: »

I've heard wiping with ash can cause small scratches that make the glass weaker over time.

Must look into it a bit more as it is a handy way of cleaning it

Don't know how true that is but it's how i clean my window every time i clear out the stove.
I use a slightly wet/damp bounty kitchen towel (they're practically indestructible) dip it into the ash, and rub the window. then dry off with dry kitchen towel- glowing window every time.

Vittu

I use oven cleaner, spray and after 1 min every thing wipes off spotless.

misc2013

Currently researching the possibility of installing an insert pellet stove into an open fireplace.. Would prefer one flush with chimney breast but apart from pricing the stoves themselves, have no idea what cost is involved to do this or is it a lot more expensive than placing a more regular stove in the fireplace area as such. Any ideas? How economical are they to run? We also have a back boiler but it's 30 yrs old and wouldn't be v effective but then we've never had anything done with it ie "serviced it" if that's a thing to do. We've OFCH and planning to upgrade the heating system with new boiler and thermostat rad controls.

Bass Reeves

misc2013 wrote: »

Currently researching the possibility of installing an insert pellet stove into an open fireplace.. Would prefer one flush with chimney breast but apart from pricing the stoves themselves, have no idea what cost is involved to do this or is it a lot more expensive than placing a more regular stove in the fireplace area as such. Any ideas? How economical are they to run? We also have a back boiler but it's 30 yrs old and wouldn't be v effective but then we've never had anything done with it ie "serviced it" if that's a thing to do. We've OFCH and planning to upgrade the heating system with new boiler and thermostat rad controls.

Physically similar to install as an ordinary stove. You need a power supply. Price of pellets have remained high. You can get them with a boiler so they could connect into you back boiler plumbing. They take as long as an ordinary stove to get started. They vary a lot in price. Expect to pay 2k+ for an ordinary insert pellet stove. I consider opening up the fireplace and installing a free-standing one

The world over

Just looking for a small bit of advice. Just done a recent kitchen/living area extension and going to put in a solid fuel standalone stove with no back boiler. The all in one kitchen/living area room is quite large at 50 sq metres. Would anyone have any general advice or recommendations on what to buy.

misc2013

Bass Reeves wrote: »

Physically similar to install as an ordinary stove. You need a power supply. Price of pellets have remained high. You can get them with a boiler so they could connect into you back boiler plumbing. They take as long as an ordinary stove to get started. They vary a lot in price. Expect to pay 2k+ for an ordinary insert pellet stove. I consider opening up the fireplace and installing a free-standing one

Are you quoting based on back boiler or not?
Either system, do you need a power supply to the chimney?? Really know nothing about this. We were hoping to modernise our living room with one of those flush insert stoves fitted into existing chimney but not at a ridiculous price either.

Lenny lynch

misc2013 wrote: »

Currently researching the possibility of installing an insert pellet stove into an open fireplace.. Would prefer one flush with chimney breast but apart from pricing the stoves themselves, have no idea what cost is involved to do this or is it a lot more expensive than placing a more regular stove in the fireplace area as such. Any ideas? How economical are they to run? We also have a back boiler but it's 30 yrs old and wouldn't be v effective but then we've never had anything done with it ie "serviced it" if that's a thing to do. We've OFCH and planning to upgrade the heating system with new boiler and thermostat rad controls.

Recently installed a multi fuel insert stove into an old open fireplace, great heat out of it and burns very little wood. To be fair it’s not a big room 14ft x 11ft. Considered putting in a free standing stove but you’d only fit a tiny one into the opening and wanted it flush with wall so went with bigger insert

misc2013

Lenny lynch wrote: »

Recently installed a multi fuel insert stove into an old open fireplace, great heat out of it and burns very little wood. To be fair it’s not a big room 14ft x 11ft. Considered putting in a free standing stove but you’d only fit a tiny one into the opening and wanted it flush with wall so went with bigger insert

Would you be able to post a pic please with cost? Our living room is similar size.

Lenny lynch

misc2013 wrote: »

Would you be able to post a pic please with cost? Our living room is similar size.

Not too sure on cost as we did other work too, slabbed the walls and new floor, how do you dm pics?

Bass Reeves

Lenny lynch wrote: »

Not too sure on cost as we did other work too, slabbed the walls and new floor, how do you dm pics?

You have to have a minimum number of posts before you can put up photos

pumpkinpie86

Having some problems with a stove we've installed ourselves, hope someone can help...

Old 50's built cottage, previously had an open fire in the room, no central heating. We took out the fireplace and put a Henley stove in - just a few feet of pipe up to a ceramic lined chimney pipe. Doesn't seal with the liner, and the pipes have also been put in with the joins upside down because of the reducer not fitting. Metal cowl on top of chimney outside.

Tar has been dripping down the pipe, and today now water/condensation seems to be pooling behind the stove too.

It's a rough job, and I'm aware of that, but the hope was that it would be okay for a few months, as the house has no heating and needs a new roof (hopefully this summer) so would be sorted out properly then. Not sure what to do...flexible flue liner? A different way to connect the pipes? Is the metal chimney cowl causing problems?

Bass Reeves

A liner should sort it. Use glasd fibre wool to seal and vermiculite around the liner. You may need to seal the bottom of the flies with concrete board.

If the chimney is in the middle of the cottage and it is build of stone it may be taking up a lot of room in the cottage. You should remove it completely. You can install a new chimney using metal studs and concrete board. You can wrap the liner in a fiberglass sheet. This will take up way less room of a traditional chimney in the cottage

Car99

The world over wrote: »

Just looking for a small bit of advice. Just done a recent kitchen/living area extension and going to put in a solid fuel standalone stove with no back boiler. The all in one kitchen/living area room is quite large at 50 sq metres. Would anyone have any general advice or recommendations on what to buy.

I've got a 60sq m area kitchen/ living/ sunroom and for the last 13 years have a stanley Erin non boiler stove that's lit at about 5 every evening in the winter. Its burns a bag of smokeless stove coal in about 5 days ,one full scuttle an evening put in at 5 then dont have to look at it again and it's still has flue temp of 300deg at midnight. It's nearly too hot at that we leave all the doors in the room open to spread the heat around the house. Fantastic stove in my experience. I reseal it every couple of years and this year I rebuilt it fully new bricks, rope , bolts , fire cement, and a few other bits for €200. Still as good as new. I bought it second hand in 2008.

limnam

The world over wrote: »

Just looking for a small bit of advice. Just done a recent kitchen/living area extension and going to put in a solid fuel standalone stove with no back boiler. The all in one kitchen/living area room is quite large at 50 sq metres. Would anyone have any general advice or recommendations on what to buy.

Have you looked at soapstone stoves?

Would work well in that size of space

https://www.tulikivi.com/en

You basically heat the stone and stone gives out radiant heat for about 24 hours.

amber2

Vittu wrote: »

I use oven cleaner, spray and after 1 min every thing wipes off spotless.

A Used tea bag works a treat to clean stove glass.

Dempo1

amber2 wrote: »

A Used tea bag works a treat to clean stove glass.

I've seen that trick, I used to use Dr Muscle oven cleaner but found it quite caustic. Did a a quick Google search for ideas and discovered using a damp rag and some fresh ashes (small amounts) hey presto, job done and free. I normally do this when glass warm as opposed to hot.

pumpkinpie86

Bass Reeves wrote: »

A liner should sort it. Use glasd fibre wool to seal and vermiculite around the liner. You may need to seal the bottom of the flies with concrete board.

If the chimney is in the middle of the cottage and it is build of stone it may be taking up a lot of room in the cottage. You should remove it completely. You can install a new chimney using metal studs and concrete board. You can wrap the liner in a fiberglass sheet. This will take up way less room of a traditional chimney in the cottage

Thank you - got a couple of people giving me quotes to line it this week, decided it's best to get a professional in.

Yeah, it's a massive chimney breast really, debating taking it down when we get the new roof done.