STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

guy bono · 06-06-2012 12:47pm

guy bono wrote: »

Hi, to cut a long story short, i have a stove installed but the flue is installed incorrectly, which i discovered when i used wet timber and the sap flowed down the outside of the pipe. my OH has given me loads a grief (probably deserved) so not looking for any here! i'm looking to find a reliable installer who could fix my problem. based in laois; any recommendations appreciated. thanks

just wondering if anyone can help me on this question i asked last week. thanks

gomamochi1 · 06-06-2012 1:18pm

guy bono wrote: »

guy bono wrote: »

Hi, to cut a long story short, i have a stove installed but the flue is installed incorrectly, which i discovered when i used wet timber and the sap flowed down the outside of the pipe. my OH has given me loads a grief (probably deserved) so not looking for any here! i'm looking to find a reliable installer who could fix my problem. based in laois; any recommendations appreciated. thanks

just wondering if anyone can help me on this question i asked last week. thanks

Hi I did a similiar thing for a self install. Go to your local builders provider and ask their advice as I did and can't go far wrong!

Stove Fan · 06-06-2012 4:11pm

guy bono wrote: »

just wondering if anyone can help me on this question i asked last week. thanks

Sorry can't help with an installer but if you would like any advice regarding the best way forward then message me.

It sounds very much the flue pipe is upside down or the clay adapter isn't suitable or should be fully relined if the clay adapter can't be fitted properly to stop tar leaking out.

Any tar should run internally and not leak out.

Stove Fan:)

slookie · 07-06-2012 9:12am

I know there's loads of threads on this topic already, but most are about putting a stove in instead of a fireplace. Our house is 2,900 sq ft and was built 4 years ago - sorriest thing we ever did was not putting in a stove. Anyway there's an open fire in the sitting room, aswell as oil used to heat the house. We want to put a free standing stove in the kitchen. We want it to heat the kitchen and also to be able open the double doors into the conservatory which is just off it, to heat that too, on the not so cold days. The kitchen is 28x17 ft and the conservatory is 17x12 roughly.
So can anyone recommend what stove to get, and a ball park figure. Want to be able burn timber and coal. Just figure we can have that simmering during the day in winter, and light the fire in the sitting room at night, reducing oil consumotion. Any advice appreciated.

guy bono · 07-06-2012 3:37pm

Stove Fan, have found someone to look at it in the next few days so will see how i get on. If not sorted, will PM you then. Thanks

telecaster · 07-06-2012 8:41pm

Hello Stove Fan

Fair play to you for helping out so many people here. I'd like to join the list if possible please!

I am looking to have a wood burning stove with boiler installed to replace my oil heating in a dormer bungalow.

The room which the stove is going in to is sort of open plan with the kitchen (we removed double doors to make it all the one space).

This entire area is 8m x 5.2m and 2.5m high, which I make to be 104 cubic metres. There are 2 double patio doors and a large window in the room so there is a bit of heat loss. From my research I reckon in the ballpark of 7kw should cover the room?

For the boiler, I have 9 rads to heat:
140cm x 50cm
80 x 50 DOUBLE
60 x 50 DOUBLE
180 x 50
180 x 50 DOUBLE
200 x 50
160 x 50
200 x 50
60 x 50 DOUBLE

I was thinking something in the region of 13kw should heat them sufficiently?

What are your thoughts/corrections, or recommendations for a suitable model?

Many thanks for your help

Stove Fan · 07-06-2012 10:04pm

slookie wrote: »

I know there's loads of threads on this topic already, but most are about putting a stove in instead of a fireplace. Our house is 2,900 sq ft and was built 4 years ago - sorriest thing we ever did was not putting in a stove. Anyway there's an open fire in the sitting room, aswell as oil used to heat the house. We want to put a free standing stove in the kitchen. We want it to heat the kitchen and also to be able open the double doors into the conservatory which is just off it, to heat that too, on the not so cold days. The kitchen is 28x17 ft and the conservatory is 17x12 roughly.
So can anyone recommend what stove to get, and a ball park figure. Want to be able burn timber and coal. Just figure we can have that simmering during the day in winter, and light the fire in the sitting room at night, reducing oil consumotion. Any advice appreciated.

Hi your room requires a stove of 11kw max output. The one stove that would be ideal and great quality is the Charnwood island 2 as it has different heat outputs based on how often you refuel it.
http://www.charnwood.com/range/stove/island-ii.aspx

Another stove that would probably be fine heat wise would be the 8kw output woodwarm enigma stove.
http://www.woodwarmstoves.co.uk/products/wildwood-range1/enigma8kwfreestanding.ashx
A pic and price here.
http://www.fireplaceproducts.co.uk/woodwarm-stoves/woodwarm-enigma-8-multifuel-stove/

Personally though if your house is well insulated I think an 8kw stove may prove ample.

The charnwood is the most expensive then woodwarm.

You could also look up stanley etc, but personally the 2 above are a great make.

It's too hard to advice on installation costs, it so depends on chimney construction/condition. Just get 3 quotes.

Stove Fan:)

Stove Fan · 07-06-2012 10:20pm

telecaster wrote: »

Hello Stove Fan

Fair play to you for helping out so many people here. I'd like to join the list if possible please!

I am looking to have a wood burning stove with boiler installed to replace my oil heating in a dormer bungalow.

The room which the stove is going in to is sort of open plan with the kitchen (we removed double doors to make it all the one space).

This entire area is 8m x 5.2m and 2.5m high, which I make to be 104 cubic metres. There are 2 double patio doors and a large window in the room so there is a bit of heat loss. From my research I reckon in the ballpark of 7kw should cover the room?

For the boiler, I have 9 rads to heat:
140cm x 50cm
80 x 50 DOUBLE
60 x 50 DOUBLE
180 x 50
180 x 50 DOUBLE
200 x 50
160 x 50
200 x 50
60 x 50 DOUBLE

I was thinking something in the region of 13kw should heat them sufficiently?

What are your thoughts/corrections, or recommendations for a suitable model?

Many thanks for your help

Hi, You were very close. Based on your rad sizes and standard hot water cylinder you need a 15kw back boiler stove. Your rooms require around 7kw max to heat them probably less if well insulated.
The stove that may be suitable but best to get a site visit to see if the max 8kw output would be ok.

The New Arrow EB16HE.
http://www.stratfordboilerstoves.co.uk/models/freestanding-stoves/eb16-he.html

Stove Fan:)

slookie · 08-06-2012 3:22pm

Stove Fan wrote: »

Hi your room requires a stove of 11kw max output. The one stove that would be ideal and great quality is the Charnwood island 2 as it has different heat outputs based on how often you refuel it.
http://www.charnwood.com/range/stove/island-ii.aspx

Another stove that would probably be fine heat wise would be the 8kw output woodwarm enigma stove.
http://www.woodwarmstoves.co.uk/products/wildwood-range1/enigma8kwfreestanding.ashx
A pic and price here.
http://www.fireplaceproducts.co.uk/woodwarm-stoves/woodwarm-enigma-8-multifuel-stove/

Personally though if your house is well insulated I think an 8kw stove may prove ample.

The charnwood is the most expensive then woodwarm.

You could also look up stanley etc, but personally the 2 above are a great make.

It's too hard to advice on installation costs, it so depends on chimney construction/condition. Just get 3 quotes.

Stove Fan:)

Thanks for the reply. I dunno have you misunderstood my original post, but I just want the stove to heat the rooms...not connecting it to the rads or anything. Ive gotten prices for less than €500 and that is the max I will be spending.

emg74 · 08-06-2012 3:43pm

From recently looking at stoves - I think you will struggle to get a quality stove to heat that size area for less than €500. There are probably chinese imports that are that cheap but you should also look at the availability of parts etc down the line if there is a problem.

We bought a Stovax Stockton 3 room heater stove (3.7kw output) for our small sitting room a couple of years ago. We paid almost €500 for it (incl flue pipe to join into chimney) - It is more than adequate for our room but would be nowhere near good enough for a space the size of yours. This is just to give an idea of price

For some reason, I have a figure of €100 per KW output in my head as being a rough price for a good quality stove

Stove Fan · 08-06-2012 4:14pm

Hi emg 74:) I agree with you.
For under 500 euro and with a decent heat output your looking at a Chinese import. If thats your budget for the stove then so be it. If you are looking for a better Chinese import look at Tiger stoves and firefox stoves. Better than most but not the same as a good quality branded stove that has a provenance.

I generally in the UK say £100 per kw to get something decent. No I wasn't getting mistaken for a boiler stove it's that the stoves I mentioned have boiler options or boilered versions:)

Good luck.

Stove Fan:)

DPM1 · 09-06-2012 8:15am

Im looking at getting a duel sided wood burning stove/boiler for my 4 bed bungalow 1400sq ft. Currently the house has storage heating but in time i want to make to switch away from electric. I like the style of the Boru 900i but my understanding is that its not a boiler type stove. Is there any option out there that would cater for my needs that looks visually like the Boru. I expect in time to install 9-10 rads in the house in time but would like to future proof with the boiler now than purchasing one that would be not up to the requirements later.

Additionally i was first going to get the walls pumped with insulation and upgrate the attic insulation possibly via the SEAI grant scheme, is there any incentives from the government for upgrading from storage heating to the stove/boiler or whats the best way to look at upgrading from the current set up so i would be less reliant on electic power to heat the water and rooms in the house.

Stove Fan · 09-06-2012 5:41pm

DPM1 wrote: »

Im looking at getting a duel sided wood burning stove/boiler for my 4 bed bungalow 1400sq ft. Currently the house has storage heating but in time i want to make to switch away from electric. I like the style of the Boru 900i but my understanding is that its not a boiler type stove. Is there any option out there that would cater for my needs that looks visually like the Boru. I expect in time to install 9-10 rads in the house in time but would like to future proof with the boiler now than purchasing one that would be not up to the requirements later.

Additionally i was first going to get the walls pumped with insulation and upgrate the attic insulation possibly via the SEAI grant scheme, is there any incentives from the government for upgrading from storage heating to the stove/boiler or whats the best way to look at upgrading from the current set up so i would be less reliant on electic power to heat the water and rooms in the house.

Hi, I dont know of many double sided inset boiler stoves:( The one I know of are expensive. There may be other makes though.
http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/wood_burning_stoves/Woodfire-RSD-series-double-sided-insert-stoves.html
The one thing I can say is if you install a boiler stove now but haven't connected it to any rads and it hasn't any water in it you will invalidate the stove manufacturers warranty. They must not be lit/used dry.

I would ideally consider a freestanding stove single sided for now and then upgrade when you do install the rads etc.

Having the walls and roof fully insulated will make a big difference in retaining warmth. Well worth doing as a first step.

I personally would upgrade the insulation and then for know buy a small freestanding stove for your living room.

I believe you can get a grant for insulation but when I enquired you need 2 things upgraded? I don't know if a stove qualifies? May be worth asking the grant people.

Stove Fan:)

Chippy01 · 09-06-2012 7:22pm

First off, thanks to Stove Fan for his PM's last week with regards to the chimney flue. It really helped.

Today though, we went out looking at the stoves themselves. It's one thing looking at them via the InterWeb, and quite another standing right in front of them.

Like everyone doing an install, we have a criteria to work to. Budget, space to heat, position of stove, to line or not to line, etc, etc.

Our criteria comes down to this:-
The room that the stove will be sited in is 4m x 3.75m x 2.4m high. This room has two doors leading from it, one to a kitchen and the other to a bedroom. Sometimes they are left open, sometimes they are closed.

From reading this thread (which takes an age and a half from start to finish), I figured that the stove will need to be around 6kw. (Non boiler stove, just a room heater)
If my calculations are wrong, please tell me.

The site for the stove will be on the hearth just in front of the existing fireplace, and to comply (just) with regulations the stove needs to be as shallow as possible as it won't fit into the fireplace itself. Changing the fireplace surround is not an option.

So with the above facts in mind, we have narrowed our options down to just 2 stoves.
The first is a Henley Suir. It is rated at 6kw, and is 290mm deep.
The second is a Wainsford Arthur. It is rated at 6.5kw, and is 270mm deep.

The fully installed price of either of these units is only a couple of Euro of a difference. A bit of a toss-up really.

We've looked long and hard, but can't find any reviews for these stoves on-line.
Is there anyone here on this thread that knows these stoves?
Does anyone actually have either of these stoves fitted? If so, how would you rate them?
Are there reviews for these stoves on-line, that I have missed? If so, please post a link.
Are there any other types of stove out there that would meet with our criteria, that I may have overlooked?

Stove Fan · 09-06-2012 9:15pm

Chippy01 wrote: »

First off, thanks to Stove Fan for his PM's last week with regards to the chimney flue. It really helped.

Today though, we went out looking at the stoves themselves. It's one thing looking at them via the InterWeb, and quite another standing right in front of them.

Like everyone doing an install, we have a criteria to work to. Budget, space to heat, position of stove, to line or not to line, etc, etc.

Our criteria comes down to this:-
The room that the stove will be sited in is 4m x 3.75m x 2.4m high. This room has two doors leading from it, one to a kitchen and the other to a bedroom. Sometimes they are left open, sometimes they are closed.

From reading this thread (which takes an age and a half from start to finish), I figured that the stove will need to be around 6kw. (Non boiler stove, just a room heater)
If my calculations are wrong, please tell me.

The site for the stove will be on the hearth just in front of the existing fireplace, and to comply (just) with regulations the stove needs to be as shallow as possible as it won't fit into the fireplace itself. Changing the fireplace surround is not an option.

So with the above facts in mind, we have narrowed our options down to just 2 stoves.
The first is a Henley Suir. It is rated at 6kw, and is 290mm deep.
The second is a Wainsford Arthur. It is rated at 6.5kw, and is 270mm deep.

The fully installed price of either of these units is only a couple of Euro of a difference. A bit of a toss-up really.

We've looked long and hard, but can't find any reviews for these stoves on-line.
Is there anyone here on this thread that knows these stoves?
Does anyone actually have either of these stoves fitted? If so, how would you rate them?
Are there reviews for these stoves on-line, that I have missed? If so, please post a link.
Are there any other types of stove out there that would meet with our criteria, that I may have overlooked?

Thanks for your kind comments:)

The henley suir is an evergreen made stove which is a Chinese import known as "poplar".
http://www.stovesareus.co.uk/catalog/evergreen-st0406-poplar-multifuel-woodburning-stove-p-528.html
They are very much a budget stove but most UK hetas installers refuse to install them due to poor quality casting.

They wainsford arthur will for the price be a Chinese made stove.

If you do intend to buy ask about spare parts availability. May be a good idea to buy a spare grate and glass.

I personally would buy a better stove after saving up. Unfortunately you get what you pay for.
If you want the best of Chinese look at Firefox stoves and Tiger stoves.

The 6kw output should be fine so long as your house is well insulated. If you go any bigger the room with the stove in will be very hot. It may get hot anyway as your room with stove only requires around 2.55kw.

Stove Fan:)

Chippy01 · 09-06-2012 10:23pm

Stove Fan wrote: »

Thanks for your kind comments:)

The henley suir is an evergreen made stove which is a Chinese import known as "poplar".
http://www.stovesareus.co.uk/catalog/evergreen-st0406-poplar-multifuel-woodburning-stove-p-528.html
They are very much a budget stove but most UK hetas installers refuse to install them due to poor quality casting.

They wainsford arthur will for the price be a Chinese made stove.

If you do intend to buy ask about spare parts availability. May be a good idea to buy a spare grate and glass.

I personally would buy a better stove after saving up. Unfortunately you get what you pay for.
If you want the best of Chinese look at Firefox stoves and Tiger stoves.

The 6kw output should be fine so long as your house is well insulated. If you go any bigger the room with the stove in will be very hot. It may get hot anyway as your room with stove only requires around 2.55kw.

Stove Fan:)

Thanks for the info, Stove Fan.

Having looked at various online sites, it seems that we may be 'tied' to the two stoves I listed, due to the depth of them. All others that we have looked at are getting to the size that they start to compromise the hearth distance required. The Suir and the Arthur barely make it as it is ... :rolleyes:

At present, we can afford to get the chimney properly lined out, but it does leave finances a bit short for a more expensive stove that would also require a hearth upgrade.
If and when things start getting better, we can always do the upgrade then; without worrying about the chimney as that will be done already.

I'll definitely ask about spare parts availability (tbh, that question never crossed my mind), and then take it from there.

emg74 · 14-06-2012 3:37pm

Stove Fan wrote: »

If I was buying I think in your instance the EB12 is the better performer. Let us know how you get on. Glad I was able to help:).

Stove Fan:)

Well, we have had a bit of a crazy busy week. Advertised our old stove on DoneDeal last Thursday morning, had a buyer at asking price by 3pm. Everything had to be disconnected over the weekend to have it ready for its new owner on Monday. We decided that we were going to change hearth too - we had liscannor stone which was impossible to keep clean so decided to go with granite. Organized that with a local man who does granite work. He had it ready on Monday, so got that on Tuesday morning. Hubby & guy next door got it fitted on Tuesday night. Plumber arrived yesterday evening when he finished at work and himself and hubby started the work yesterday evening... Worked out really well. Not a lot of changing of pipes to be done and a small fire was lit @ 11pm last night. Wasn't sure how it was working out as it seemed to take ages to get heat in cylinder or rads. In the end we just switched off the pump to heat the rads so as to get the cylinder hot first.

Really testing it out today and so far I am very impressed. The cylinder is hot (It was warm from last night) and there is great heat in the rads - the fire has been on for about 1hr 45mins

I will pop up some photos when we get everything tidied up and presentable. Still have bricks to put back into the fireplace and to cover up the pipes etc

Stove Fan · 14-06-2012 4:19pm

emg74 wrote: »

Well, we have had a bit of a crazy busy week. Advertised our old stove on DoneDeal last Thursday morning, had a buyer at asking price by 3pm. Everything had to be disconnected over the weekend to have it ready for its new owner on Monday. We decided that we were going to change hearth too - we had liscannor stone which was impossible to keep clean so decided to go with granite. Organized that with a local man who does granite work. He had it ready on Monday, so got that on Tuesday morning. Hubby & guy next door got it fitted on Tuesday night. Plumber arrived yesterday evening when he finished at work and himself and hubby started the work yesterday evening... Worked out really well. Not a lot of changing of pipes to be done and a small fire was lit @ 11pm last night. Wasn't sure how it was working out as it seemed to take ages to get heat in cylinder or rads. In the end we just switched off the pump to heat the rads so as to get the cylinder hot first.

Really testing it out today and so far I am very impressed. The cylinder is hot (It was warm from last night) and there is great heat in the rads - the fire has been on for about 1hr 45mins

I will pop up some photos when we get everything tidied up and presentable. Still have bricks to put back into the fireplace and to cover up the pipes etc

Sounds a very busy week:eek:
Excellent news on the sale of your stove!
Get your plumber to wire the pump to a pipe thermostat otherwise the pump is constantly circulating cool water and not switching on/off automatically. The pipe stat should be set around 45-55 degrees. More info in installers manual. I install mine on the flow pipe from stove.
Without this pipe stat it will take longer to heat up and is a must to conform with the stoves warranty. Otherwise the boiler will suffer from condensation and shorten it's life. Looking forward to pics.

Stove Fan:)

emg74 · 14-06-2012 4:22pm

There is some kind of stat in the attic but I know he was talking about moving it to the hotpress onto one of the pipes coming onto cylinder - I think hubby was supposed to be looking into it for him.

Stove Fan · 14-06-2012 4:38pm

emg74 wrote: »

There is some kind of stat in the attic but I know he was talking about moving it to the hotpress onto one of the pipes coming onto cylinder - I think hubby was supposed to be looking into it for him.

Hi the pipe stat will look like in this link.http://www.plumbworld.co.uk/salus-ct100-cylinderpipe-1932-17051?utm_source=GoogleBase&utm_medium=GB&utm_campaign=GoogleBase&gclid=CI6LwtKGzrACFUEd4QodwWlrYQ

I installed one recently and fitted it right next to the rayburn on the flow.

Ours is about 2m from the stove on the flow. Some manufacturers show it on the return past the cylinder but I find it works best/quicker on the flow.

Stove Fan:)

sculldog · 16-06-2012 4:44pm

we are currently in the early stages of construction of a two storey house.
ground floor 130 square metres
first floor 97 s. m
we are going to site a multi fuel stove with back boiler in ground floor living area - 5.175m x4.750m , with a small wood burning stove in upstairs living area- 6m x 5m.(unlikely to be used as often)
unsure as to what size of stoves would be required??
we were thinking of installing underfloor heating downstairs with rads upstairs but would be open to what others think would be best/ most efficient, also undecided on solar panels or not..??
please help pretty confused......

Stove Fan · 16-06-2012 9:27pm

sculldog wrote: »

we are currently in the early stages of construction of a two storey house.
ground floor 130 square metres
first floor 97 s. m
we are going to site a multi fuel stove with back boiler in ground floor living area - 5.175m x4.750m , with a small wood burning stove in upstairs living area- 6m x 5m.(unlikely to be used as often)
unsure as to what size of stoves would be required??
we were thinking of installing underfloor heating downstairs with rads upstairs but would be open to what others think would be best/ most efficient, also undecided on solar panels or not..??
please help pretty confused......

Hi based on your 2 room sizes you need a 4.5kw stove and for the upstairs room 5.5kw. Less if building to passive standards.

With the 4.5kw stove being a boiler stove you need 4.5kw to room and if you want it to heat all of the house it has to be sized for the heating load.
A plumber or engineer would calculate this taking into account various things including insulation levels.

You can't use the stove direct to heat the underfloor heating as it would produce too hot water. This is as far as I'm aware. If you do want to use the stove to heat the underfloor then consider a thermal store. This store would connect the solar panels for summer hot water if wanted.

If you used radiators throughout the stove could heat the rads direct.

Underfloor is more efficient but with only a stove for heat you could be dissapointed as it's not a constant steady heat and needs the fire lit to get heat. If you do go for stove and underfloor you should certainly seriously consider a thermal store cylinder,. This stores the hot water produced from your stove and you can use it at any time you like using time clocks and zone valves.

I personally would install.

Thermal store, rads, and oil boiler for when ill or don't want the hassle of lighting the fire or if you go away in winter, although could consider antifreeze for heating systems for winter protection.

Solar panels for summer hot water when and if budget allowed.

If budget is an issue. Twin/triple coil hot water cylinder. Back boiler stove, oil boiler and radiators throughout.

Certainly though insulate as much as you can:)

Stove Fan:)

sculldog · 17-06-2012 6:47pm

thanks for speedy informative reply stovefan....would just like to clarify would you go for radiators throughout or underfloor heating downstairs rads upstairs. i am planning to put in a thermal store ,putting in a precast concrete floor for first floor and going to pump the wall cavity(7 inch) with beads.
could you recommend a particular stove. for our needs.
thanks again

Stove Fan · 17-06-2012 8:55pm

sculldog wrote: »

thanks for speedy informative reply stovefan....would just like to clarify would you go for radiators throughout or underfloor heating downstairs rads upstairs. i am planning to put in a thermal store ,putting in a precast concrete floor for first floor and going to pump the wall cavity(7 inch) with beads.
could you recommend a particular stove. for our needs.
thanks again

Myself personally I would go for radiators as I like the instant control and being able to switch it on or off as needed due to changes in the weather. Whereas underfloor really needs to be on all the time and can be slow to warm up. Ie the house is cooled by doors/windows being left open. Having the thermal store gives you the option to have both but the fire would need to be going quite a lot/24hours I would think to initially heat up the concrete floor slab.
I'm not up on underfloor heating so it may be best to speak to someone more experienced in underfloor heating with a stove only with regards to heat up time and how much the fire would need to be going.

No matter which type you go for certainly zone the system if it's a large house. With rads have at least 2 zones. Upstairs/downstairs, Or install thermostatic rad valves. Underfloor it's best to zone each room.

I couldn't really recommend an actual stove due to not knowing the boiler size required.

I like the Arrow ecoboiler range. Clearview stoves, Charnwood range. Woodwarm stoves, Dunsley stoves. All of these makers have boiler options on their range.
Plus there are Stanley etc.
Have a look at www.whatstove.co.uk for pictures of stoves and reviews by owners.

Stove Fan:)

martinn123 · 18-06-2012 9:30am

Great thread, had a read but need advice on my situation.

Want to install a stove in Conservatory, 3.5m X 3.5m.

We have an added part 1.5m wide, see pic 1 which has a solid wall.
I want a stove just to heat the room, two rads are on the Oil system, but I can switch off.

My questions are,
1, Flue, I can take the flue out through the wall, its standard two X 4'' blocks, insulated, plasterboard on inside, dry dash outside, any issues?
2 Height, see outside pic's do I have to clear the roof above the Conservatory only, or does the flue have to be higher than the main house?
3, Stove, I am looking for something small, that will burn mainly wood perhaps turf, or coal, I have a constant supply of Timber, off cuts, logs branches etc, can I burn these or only dried timber logs?
4, likely cost, like everyone else I am on a budget, so any ideas of total installed cost would be appreciated.
5. Recomendations, I am in North Co. Dublin, so any recomendations for an installer by PM.

thanks in advance

jameshayes · 18-06-2012 12:11pm

Hello all - a quick question regarding fitting a stove,

I will be installing a stove and linking it to an existing (ununsed) chimney, the chimney is clear all the way to the roof with clay inserts which seem to be about 200mm wide (cant remember)

my question is, should i run new metal flues right up to the chimney outlet or do I just use a shorter half meter length?

Stove Fan · 18-06-2012 1:05pm

martinn123 wrote: »

Great thread, had a read but need advice on my situation.

Want to install a stove in Conservatory, 3.5m X 3.5m.

We have an added part 1.5m wide, see pic 1 which has a solid wall.
I want a stove just to heat the room, two rads are on the Oil system, but I can switch off.

My questions are,
1, Flue, I can take the flue out through the wall, its standard two X 4'' blocks, insulated, plasterboard on inside, dry dash outside, any issues?
2 Height, see outside pic's do I have to clear the roof above the Conservatory only, or does the flue have to be higher than the main house?
3, Stove, I am looking for something small, that will burn mainly wood perhaps turf, or coal, I have a constant supply of Timber, off cuts, logs branches etc, can I burn these or only dried timber logs?
4, likely cost, like everyone else I am on a budget, so any ideas of total installed cost would be appreciated.
5. Recomendations, I am in North Co. Dublin, so any recomendations for an installer by PM.

thanks in advance

Hi, looking at your pictures the flue would need to terminate above gutter level/eaves by at least 1- 1.5m of the main building. The higher the better but you can't have too much flue unsupported.

Yes you can install the flue through the wall so long as it's twinwall insulated flue, not standard fluepipe. The installer will install twinwall through the wall and outside. You could also go vertically through the roof but out the wall is probably easiest. Inside will be black enameled fluepipe to match the stove.

The inside wall will need to be fireproofed due to the insulated plasterboard. The installer will fire protect it with a vermiculite board.

With regards to costs I would quess materials could be around 1000-1500 plus 2 days labour plus the stove cost. The stove if you bought a cheap chinese one could be anywhere from 300 to up to-1500 euro for a decent one. I think your looking at spending around 2,000 euro upwards.

I like the morso squirrel for small rooms. Have a look at stoves up to 5kw max. If on a budget look at a chinese Tiger/firefox stoves. Well cast chinese made stove. See different reviews and pictures of stoves here.
www.whatstove.co.uk
You can only burn dry timber, minimum a year old and left to dry once split and cut.
Have a look at the various stoves. http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/

If your burning wood mostly you may like a woodburning stove with an optional multifuel grate. Wood burns best on the base of the stove without grate as it gives more room for logs. If burning coal install the optional grate.

Stove Fan:)

DPM1 · 18-06-2012 1:56pm

Stove Fan wrote: »

Hi, I dont know of many double sided inset boiler stoves:( The one I know of are expensive. There may be other makes though.
http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/wood_burning_stoves/Woodfire-RSD-series-double-sided-insert-stoves.html
The one thing I can say is if you install a boiler stove now but haven't connected it to any rads and it hasn't any water in it you will invalidate the stove manufacturers warranty. They must not be lit/used dry.

I would ideally consider a freestanding stove single sided for now and then upgrade when you do install the rads etc.

Having the walls and roof fully insulated will make a big difference in retaining warmth. Well worth doing as a first step.

I personally would upgrade the insulation and then for know buy a small freestanding stove for your living room.

I believe you can get a grant for insulation but when I enquired you need 2 things upgraded? I don't know if a stove qualifies? May be worth asking the grant people.

Stove Fan:)

Thanks Stove Fan

That’s exactly the type I’m after despite the cost involved, i must check to see if there is an Irish supplier of that type now.

On another note it’s often mentioned that certain stoves are wood burning only and not multi fuel, coal turf etc. Why is this or is it a case that they function best on wood only and they don’t work as well with the other fuel types?

Stove Fan · 18-06-2012 3:33pm

jameshayes wrote: »

Hello all - a quick question regarding fitting a stove,

I will be installing a stove and linking it to an existing (ununsed) chimney, the chimney is clear all the way to the roof with clay inserts which seem to be about 200mm wide (cant remember)

my question is, should i run new metal flues right up to the chimney outlet or do I just use a shorter half meter length?

It really all depends on the soundness of the clay liners and how well they were installed. The chimney should be swept and tested for smoke leaks by using some smoke pellets. Smoke should only come out of one chimney pot.
I myself if money wasn't tight I would fully line to the top with a stainless steel flexible liner. This would give a good draw to the stove, make cleaning easier and avoid any risks of tar leaking out at the rigid pipe to clay liner adapter. This adapter is crucial to get a good seal to the base of the liners otherwise tar can leak out. Sometimes it's not possible to install due to the builder supporting the clay liners on concrete lintels. You need a flat base to get a good seal. If you look up your chimney you will see if it's flat. A photo would help.
Lining is the better choice:)

Stove Fan:)

Stove Fan · 18-06-2012 3:45pm

DPM1 wrote: »

Thanks Stove Fan

That’s exactly the type I’m after despite the cost involved, i must check to see if there is an Irish supplier of that type now.

On another note it’s often mentioned that certain stoves are wood burning only and not multi fuel, coal turf etc. Why is this or is it a case that they function best on wood only and they don’t work as well with the other fuel types?

Woodburning only stoves are only designed to burn wood as wood burns best without a grate. A wood only stove has no grate as the wood is burnt on the base of the stove and without the grate you get more room for logs.

A grate is designed to be used with coal as the fire requires an air supply from below whereas wood burns best with air supply controlled from above the fire.

Woodburning only stoves are generally cheaper as there isn't a grate.

Multifuel is really a stove with a grate and can burn a multitude of fuels.

Burning wood and coal together is pretty inefficient as the coal burns the wood quicker and burning this combination produced sulphuric acid which is corrosive to the stove and chimney.

If you have to burn wood or coal best to burn individually.

The best stove really is a stove with a removable grate for woodburning only. Some stoves like charnwood etc have a grate with two positions, one for wood and one for coal. http://www.charnwood.com/multifuel-grate.aspx

Stove Fan:)

DPM1 · 18-06-2012 4:13pm

The best stove really is a stove with a removable grate for woodburning only. Some stoves like charnwood etc have a grate with two positions, one for wood and one for coal. http://www.charnwood.com/multifuel-grate.aspx

Stove Fan:)[/QUOTE]

Makes since now alright, just from a curiosity point of view can a grate be fitted to a wood burning stove to make it multi fuel or would you say that all stoves designed and supplied as wood burning only should be kept that way. I should note that a wood burning stove would suit my needs just fine, it’s just that i always like to future proof anything that i do.

Stove Fan · 18-06-2012 4:22pm

DPM1 wrote: »

Makes since now alright, just from a curiosity point of view can a grate be fitted to a wood burning stove to make it multi fuel or would you say that all stoves designed and supplied as wood burning only should be kept that way. I should note that a wood burning stove would suit my needs just fine, it’s just that i always like to future proof anything that i do.

A grate can be fitted to a woodburning stove providing the stove manufacturer has the option to buy a multifuel grate for their stove. It will be listed under the options if it's available. If it's not available then it's a woodburner only.

For instance we had a villager A range woodburner but bought the optional grate for £114. Like you we liked to hedge our bets in case we ran out of wood:)

Stove Fan:)

Redfox1 · 19-06-2012 11:10am

Hi Stove Fan,
I want to put an insert back boiler stove in a small room to service 13 rads.
I was looking at ESSE but not sure if it will support my needs.
Can you advise me please?

Stove Fan · 19-06-2012 11:51am

Redfox1 wrote: »

Hi Stove Fan,
I want to put an insert back boiler stove in a small room to service 13 rads.
I was looking at ESSE but not sure if it will support my needs.
Can you advise me please?

'
Hi could you measure the size of your rads and say if they are doubles or singles, I'll give you a rough idea on size required:)

I will also need your room size where the stove is going. You don't have to include the rad(s) in this room as when the stove is lit this will heat the room. How many doors are there in the room with the stove? Is it just one or 2 etc. Ie layout for heat transfer.

Stove Fan:)

Redfox1 · 19-06-2012 12:13pm

Hi Stove Fan,

My room size is 12' x 10'.
There are two doors in room and one window.
Five of my rads are rads are about 6' in length
Other rads are about 3' and only two of these are double rads.
My bedroom / upstairs rads are always turned down really low as I dont feel need to heat upstairs as house is well insulated and generally warm.
I have to get insert boiler stove as it is less disruption but having read up on various types I am a bit wary & totally confused!
Thanks.

Stove Fan · 19-06-2012 5:46pm

Redfox1 wrote: »

Hi Stove Fan,

My room size is 12' x 10'.
There are two doors in room and one window.
Five of my rads are rads are about 6' in length
Other rads are about 3' and only two of these are double rads.
My bedroom / upstairs rads are always turned down really low as I dont feel need to heat upstairs as house is well insulated and generally warm.
I have to get insert boiler stove as it is less disruption but having read up on various types I am a bit wary & totally confused!
Thanks.

Hi, yes it can be confusing:)

Based on your rad sizes and hot water requirements you need a stove with a back boiler of 16kw output.

Your room size requires around 2.3kw to heat it. The heat output of the esse is 3.6kw
The extra room heat of 1.3 kw would be easily dissipated by leaving the doors open:)

The esse 350 greenswitch produces 11.1kw to water using wood only and more burning coal:D.
Unfortunately the boiler in the esse is a bit small but may be ok if you turn some of the rads low using the rads thermostatic valve.

I don't know of any other inset stoves suitable with a larger boiler but still with a low room heat output. All the others I know would make your room too hot.

I would get several quotes in for installation and discuss with your plumber.

Stove Fan:)

Redfox1 · 19-06-2012 7:28pm

Redfox1 wrote: »

Hi Stove Fan,

My room size is 12' x 10'.
There are two doors in room and one window.
Five of my rads are rads are about 6' in length
Other rads are about 3' and only two of these are double rads.
My bedroom / upstairs rads are always turned down really low as I dont feel need to heat upstairs as house is well insulated and generally warm.
I have to get insert boiler stove as it is less disruption but having read up on various types I am a bit wary & totally confused!
Thanks.

Thank you so much. Great help.

DPM1 · 20-06-2012 1:45pm

As i mentioned in a previous post i am looking at a getting a dual sided inset boiler stove of which there are not a lot of choices out there. I have attached 2 examples

http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/wood_burning_stoves/Woodfire-RSD-series-double-sided-insert-stoves.html

http://www.thestoveshop.ie/modules/store/Hestia-Double-Sided-Boiler-Stove-19kW_P163488C13403.cfm

Question i have is when a manufacturer states that a particular stove provides 5KW of heat to the room would that be to both sides or would it effectively mean 2.5KW per side?

Stove Fan · 20-06-2012 4:41pm

DPM1 wrote: »

As i mentioned in a previous post i am looking at a getting a dual sided inset boiler stove of which there are not a lot of choices out there. I have attached 2 examples

http://www.stovesonline.co.uk/wood_burning_stoves/Woodfire-RSD-series-double-sided-insert-stoves.html

http://www.thestoveshop.ie/modules/store/Hestia-Double-Sided-Boiler-Stove-19kW_P163488C13403.cfm

Question i have is when a manufacturer states that a particular stove provides 5KW of heat to the room would that be to both sides or would it effectively mean 2.5KW per side?

I would definately think its 2.5kw per side otherwise I think they would specify.
You could always email them but would quess the output shown is the max total output from the stove.

Stove Fan:)

coillsaille · 21-06-2012 1:33am

Hi,
Great thread and I've tried to read as much as can to get an answer to my question, but gave up around page 20! So apologies if the answer is there somewhere.

I am building a new house with a heating system that involves solar, oil, underfloor and a buffer tank. I also would like to link a stove into this system. However a plumber has said I cannot link the stove to the buffer tank because it is located in a plant room on the ground floor. He said the stove could only be linked to the hot water cylinder and towel rails upstairs because the stove has to work with gravity. However someone else I spoke to said there are stoves available that work by pump instead of gravity. (In case it's not already clear, I really am clueless about this stuff.)

Basically I am looking for a stove that:

(1) can feed into a buffer tank located on the same level

(2) is multifuel with a removable grate for burning logs

(3) is room-sealed and can use an external air supply (airtight house)

(4) will put as little heat as possible into the room and as much as possible into the buffer tank

I would appreciate if Stove Fan or anyone else could recommend a stove that meets this list.

Stove Fan · 21-06-2012 11:41am

coillsaille wrote: »

Hi,
Great thread and I've tried to read as much as can to get an answer to my question, but gave up around page 20! So apologies if the answer is there somewhere.

I am building a new house with a heating system that involves solar, oil, underfloor and a buffer tank. I also would like to link a stove into this system. However a plumber has said I cannot link the stove to the buffer tank because it is located in a plant room on the ground floor. He said the stove could only be linked to the hot water cylinder and towel rails upstairs because the stove has to work with gravity. However someone else I spoke to said there are stoves available that work by pump instead of gravity. (In case it's not already clear, I really am clueless about this stuff.)

Basically I am looking for a stove that:

(1) can feed into a buffer tank located on the same level

(2) is multifuel with a removable grate for burning logs

(3) is room-sealed and can use an external air supply (airtight house)

(4) will put as little heat as possible into the room and as much as possible into the buffer tank

I would appreciate if Stove Fan or anyone else could recommend a stove that meets this list.

Hi, your plumber is part correct, the stove does need to work in part by gravity, ie towel rails and hot water cylinder.
This is fine as when the pump isn't working (powercut) then these towel rads etc dissipate the heat from the boiler stove. Wouldn't it be possible to route pipework to the buffer and pump this part? Ie gravity circulation to towel rads and pumped circuit to buffer. This way you have the safety of gravity upstairs but get your buffer tank heated as well:) I would certainly insulate all pipe runs to buffer.

Unfortunately there isn't a great deal of boiler stoves that are room sealed or fully room sealed.
It looks like dunsley boiler stoves, the 8,10,16 and Yorkshire look like they have this option.
http://www.dunsleyheat.co.uk/highland16CH.htm

Dunsley yorkshire is a good stove.
http://www.boilerstoves.co.uk/Dunsley-Yorkshire-boiler-stove-784.html

http://www.dunsleyheat.co.uk/highland.htm

Clearview 650/750 has the option of outside air kit, confirm if it applies to the boiler models. Can have up to 40,000btu around 12kw boiler.
http://www.clearviewstoves.com/clearview650.htm

There is also the Boru carraig Mor 20kw and 30kw stove.
http://www.borustoves.ie/products/carraigmor.html

Stanley models can come with air supply from 2011.

http://www.waterfordstanley.com/stanley-stoves/room-heat-central-heating/solid-fuel/erin-stove.aspx

http://www.waterfordstanley.com/stanley-stoves/room-heat-central-heating/solid-fuel/lismore-stove.aspx

http://www.waterfordstanley.com/stanley-stoves/room-heat-central-heating/solid-fuel/reginald-stove.aspx

http://www.waterfordstanley.com/stanley-stoves/room-heat-central-heating/solid-fuel/tara-stove.aspx

There are probably other, but this is what I found on a search:)

Whatever you do get your plumber to specify the boiler size and room heat required.

Reviews on Dunsley and clearview here. www.whatstove.co.uk

Stove Fan:)

trevorbrady · 21-06-2012 10:02pm

I bought a house with two stoves in it. After a few winters I'm considering ditching both of them and replacing with something more suitable.

The previous owner of the house obviously spent a few quid extending and renovating etc but I think he didn't think through the stove selection properly.

The kitchen/living and dining rooms are open plan and have an overall floor area of 64 sq. M. Doing the sums, this requires 9.4kW to heat and with a 75% efficient stove, would require approximately 13kW of stove output. There is a Stanley Erin in situ in the dining room with back boiler and TBH, it does a piss poor job of heating the space and the 8 radiators. It does neither job well. So the plan is to replace it with a non-boiler stove and just let the outdoor oil boiler deal with the central heating. All going well, we could even turn off the three radiators or at least turn them right down in the three rooms exposed to the heat of the stove.

The other stove is in the living room is a Stanley Tara oil burning stove and it's an expensive ornament at the moment. In the years we've been here we used it twice and it stank up the house so we've avoided it since.

The way I'm thinking at the moment is to swap the boiler stove for a properly specified non-boiler model, probably multi-fuel (maybe wood-only?) and swap the oil stove for a lesser specified wood-burning stove for occasional use only. Last winter we burned wood exclusively, the winter before, both wood and coal. We have taken delivery of another load of timber so I'm planning on wood-only from here on out.

So, what I'm really asking is: what/where's the best value in stoves at the moment? I'm hoping I can sell off the two existing stoves on donedeal to fund their replacements, they're both enamel finish models so should make a reasonable price. It wouldn't bother me to buy matt-finish stoves as replacements. I have a quote of €1575 for an enamel Stanley Erin non-boiler which I think is excessive. I'd be hoping to replace both stoves for that. I'm not brand-snobby BTW

any help/pointers/advice appreciated

Stove Fan · 22-06-2012 12:11am

trevorbrady wrote: »

I bought a house with two stoves in it. After a few winters I'm considering ditching both of them and replacing with something more suitable.

The previous owner of the house obviously spent a few quid extending and renovating etc but I think he didn't think through the stove selection properly.

The kitchen/living and dining rooms are open plan and have an overall floor area of 64 sq. M. Doing the sums, this requires 9.4kW to heat and with a 75% efficient stove, would require approximately 13kW of stove output. There is a Stanley Erin in situ in the dining room with back boiler and TBH, it does a piss poor job of heating the space and the 8 radiators. It does neither job well. So the plan is to replace it with a non-boiler stove and just let the outdoor oil boiler deal with the central heating. All going well, we could even turn off the three radiators or at least turn them right down in the three rooms exposed to the heat of the stove.

The other stove is in the living room is a Stanley Tara oil burning stove and it's an expensive ornament at the moment. In the years we've been here we used it twice and it stank up the house so we've avoided it since.

The way I'm thinking at the moment is to swap the boiler stove for a properly specified non-boiler model, probably multi-fuel (maybe wood-only?) and swap the oil stove for a lesser specified wood-burning stove for occasional use only. Last winter we burned wood exclusively, the winter before, both wood and coal. We have taken delivery of another load of timber so I'm planning on wood-only from here on out.

So, what I'm really asking is: what/where's the best value in stoves at the moment? I'm hoping I can sell off the two existing stoves on donedeal to fund their replacements, they're both enamel finish models so should make a reasonable price. It wouldn't bother me to buy matt-finish stoves as replacements. I have a quote of €1575 for an enamel Stanley Erin non-boiler which I think is excessive. I'd be hoping to replace both stoves for that. I'm not brand-snobby BTW

any help/pointers/advice appreciated

Hi, I calculate you need a max of 10kw to heat the open plan space based on 8mx8m, with 2.4m heigh ceilings.

I would say it's a case of shopping around for the best price/deals whether here or the UK. On google uk type multifuel stoves:) We ordered our villager stove from the UK as it was cheaper.

Are you absolutely sure you want to ditch your boiler stove because surely with the cost of oil it would pay, if you could get it working better or a replacement? It has a 45,000btu boiler so should do better. A person who did work on our house has a stanley erin but it didn't work great probably due to the rubbish install and plumbing install. Trapped air due to pipework running down from stove, undersized pipework, not crossflowed, excessive horizontal flue, no heat leak rad, no seperate feed and vent. vented using oil vent. Pipe stat on pipe miles away that never got hot so stove just boiled. In other words a right hash job.
I wouldn't be without our boiler stove:DIn fact it's our only form of heating. Maybe the stove is running all doubles or large rads and so undersized?
Granted it should half heat the space:(
ours stove produces 3kw to the room of 28sqm and heated it well even in that cold winter, but it's a well insulated detatched bungalow.

I myself would evaluate the boiler stove and installation before condeming it. See if it's plumbed in correctly, install a small multifuel stove in the living room.
If you would measure the rads and note if doubles or singles I'll see if the stove is undersized if you want me too:).

Stove Fan:)

trevorbrady · 22-06-2012 12:33am

much obliged

radiators:

1.6M x 0.5M double
1.0M x 0.5M double
2.0M x 0.5M double
1.2M x 0.3M double
0.6M x 0.5M double
1.2M x 0.5M single
1.2M x 0.5M double
1.2M x 0.5M single
1.2M x 0.5M single

the house is basically divided in two, the older section, built 1975ish and contains the bedrooms and bathroom. The newer section, built 2005ish has the open plan kitchen, dining, living rooms plus a small utility. Even with no heating on, the new section is way warmer than the old section.

My thinking is that we use solid fuel to heat the new section, turn off/down the radiators in the new section, close the door between the new and old parts of the house and just let the oil heat the bedrooms. The old section has already had the walls pumped with styrofoam beads and I stripped out the old 100m fibreglass loft insulation last year and refitted 300mm glasswool instead. All windows are double glazed. So the old section is as well insulated as possible without cladding the outside.

I just didn't feel like we were getting any result from the radiators on the stove alone. When the oil boiler kicked in, it warmed the radiators up better than just the stove but after the oil kicked out again, the stove didn't really maintain the heat in the radiators. Plus there was an overflowing issue with the c/h header tank, with both oil burning and the stove well fired up, it would overflow warm water out the eave pipe occasionally. Had a plumber look at it and after replacing a seized water pump on the boiler he thought he had it sorted until it happened again. Since the weather warmed up a bit I haven't gone after the problem. I'm hoping that ditching the back boiler stove in favour of a non-boiler model will solve a few problems.

**EDIT** just re-read this bit:

A person who did work on our house has a stanley erin but it didn't work great probably due to the rubbish install and plumbing install. Trapped air due to pipework running down from stove, undersized pipework, not crossflowed, excessive horizontal flue, no heat leak rad, no seperate feed and vent. vented using oil vent. Pipe stat on pipe miles away that never got hot so stove just boiled. In other words a right hash job.

not much of that makes much sense to me except I know the pipe-stat on the system is a good bit away from the stove. Does that make a big difference?

Stove Fan · 22-06-2012 1:16am

trevorbrady wrote: »

much obliged

radiators:

1.6M x 0.5M double
1.0M x 0.5M double
2.0M x 0.5M double
1.2M x 0.3M double
0.6M x 0.5M double
1.2M x 0.5M single
1.2M x 0.5M double
1.2M x 0.5M single
1.2M x 0.5M single

the house is basically divided in two, the older section, built 1975ish and contains the bedrooms and bathroom. The newer section, built 2005ish has the open plan kitchen, dining, living rooms plus a small utility. Even with no heating on, the new section is way warmer than the old section.

My thinking is that we use solid fuel to heat the new section, turn off/down the radiators in the new section, close the door between the new and old parts of the house and just let the oil heat the bedrooms. The old section has already had the walls pumped with styrofoam beads and I stripped out the old 100m fibreglass loft insulation last year and refitted 300mm glasswool instead. All windows are double glazed. So the old section is as well insulated as possible without cladding the outside.

I just didn't feel like we were getting any result from the radiators on the stove alone. When the oil boiler kicked in, it warmed the radiators up better than just the stove but after the oil kicked out again, the stove didn't really maintain the heat in the radiators. Plus there was an overflowing issue with the c/h header tank, with both oil burning and the stove well fired up, it would overflow warm water out the eave pipe occasionally. Had a plumber look at it and after replacing a seized water pump on the boiler he thought he had it sorted until it happened again. Since the weather warmed up a bit I haven't gone after the problem. I'm hoping that ditching the back boiler stove in favour of a non-boiler model will solve a few problems.

**EDIT** just re-read this bit:

not much of that makes much sense to me except I know the pipe-stat on the system is a good bit away from the stove. Does that make a big difference?

Hi, I have calculated you need a 18kw back boiler stove to heat everything including hot water, although it would need to be a bit more powerfull if not using coal or the wood fire wasn't roaring for a good hour. I find a lively fire is essential for the first hour.

Your stove isn't far off so I'm highly suspicious of this problem with overflowing and should certainly get 6 rads hot after about 60-90 minutes with a good fire going.

You shouldn't run the stove and oil boiler together unless specially linked using a systemlink or centraliser. Otherwise you may well get pumping over/pitching problems and possible water running out the overflow pipe.

See if the water is warm in the smaller tank in loft etc when the fire is lit without the oil boiler on and see if any water comes out the vent pipe. It is probably poor pump positioning on the solid fuel fire or using both boilers together. This is probably where your heat is going by heating up the water in the cold feed and expansion tank. Do you always use both boilers together? Try the fire without the oil being on.
If your system isn't linked using a system link you should have 2 central heating pumps, one near the oil boiler or inside the boiler case and one near the boiler stove. Running both pumps will cause issues as they are conflicting with each other.

The pipe stat needs to be on the flow pipe that actually gets hot. Normally near the stove on the flow pipework or on the gravity flow pipework to the hot water cylinder. This is the pipework linking the stove to the hot water cylinder and should always be in 1 inch diameter pipe which doesn't require a pump to circulate the hot water through it.

After 15 minutes of the fire lit go and feel the pipe that the pipe thermostat is attatched too. If it's getting warm/hot it seems correctly positioned. If not follow the hot pipe from stove along, this is where the pipe stat needs moving too.

Stove Fan:)

trevorbrady · 22-06-2012 1:14pm

thanks again stove fan. I'll get a good fire going tonight and make sure the oil boiler is off and see how things pan out.

It feels weird lighting a fire in the middle of June :eek:

jack12a · 23-06-2012 7:09pm

Hello all,

I am going to replace my 16" open fire with a non boiler inset stove my room requires approx 5kw to heat it, I have narrowed my choice down to 2 makes the clearview vision inset 5kw or woodwarm 4k or 6.5kw I would be grateful for any advice on these inset stoves.
Also I intend to install a 6" 316 flexi liner into a 8" clay liner the house is 2 story and the chimney is straight and 9mts high and in the middle of the house, Q would there enough room between flexi liner and clay liner to insulate. or would it be ok to leave it uninsulated.

Regards

trevorbrady · 23-06-2012 7:31pm

trevorbrady wrote: »

thanks again stove fan. I'll get a good fire going tonight and make sure the oil boiler is off and see how things pan out.

It feels weird lighting a fire in the middle of June :eek:

I didn't get around to it last night but the stove is stocked up and a good wood fire burning since about 4.30 this afternoon. As I type, the radiators are only barely warm (like just gone off cold) in the top inch only. The rest of the radiators are basically cold.

We also drew a bath for the little one, no hot water from the stove, again, just barely off cold. Resorted to boiling kettles to heat up the bath...

There has been no over flow out the eave outlet as of yet. The oil boiler is fully off and won't kick in on the timer at all so the stove is responsible for any heat/water/overflowing issues, should there be any

emg74 · 23-06-2012 7:46pm

emg74 wrote: »

Well, we have had a bit of a crazy busy week. Advertised our old stove on DoneDeal last Thursday morning, had a buyer at asking price by 3pm. Everything had to be disconnected over the weekend to have it ready for its new owner on Monday. We decided that we were going to change hearth too - we had liscannor stone which was impossible to keep clean so decided to go with granite. Organized that with a local man who does granite work. He had it ready on Monday, so got that on Tuesday morning. Hubby & guy next door got it fitted on Tuesday night. Plumber arrived yesterday evening when he finished at work and himself and hubby started the work yesterday evening... Worked out really well. Not a lot of changing of pipes to be done and a small fire was lit @ 11pm last night. Wasn't sure how it was working out as it seemed to take ages to get heat in cylinder or rads. In the end we just switched off the pump to heat the rads so as to get the cylinder hot first.

Really testing it out today and so far I am very impressed. The cylinder is hot (It was warm from last night) and there is great heat in the rads - the fire has been on for about 1hr 45mins

I will pop up some photos when we get everything tidied up and presentable. Still have bricks to put back into the fireplace and to cover up the pipes etc

Finally popping up some pics of the Stratford EB12 Stove - We have it installed about 10days at this stage & I am so happy with it.

I can't believe the heat in the rads without having a massive fire on. To be honest I don't think it uses much more fuel than we used to use with our old stove.

We have done a calculation of the cost and at the minute the stove is costing us about €1600 (incl cost of stove, new hearth, plumber minus what we got from sale of old stove).

We have loads of hot water and there is lots of heat in the radiators (even on the days I am working and without a fire till about 6.30pm).

Thanks again Stove Fan for your advice, it was invaluable. Found out that the stat is on the flow pipe in the attic but we are going to move it to the pipe coming from the cylinder so that the priority goes to getting the cylinder hot first

wreckless · 23-06-2012 10:59pm

jack12a wrote: »

Hello all,

I am going to replace my 16" open fire with a non boiler inset stove my room requires approx 5kw to heat it, I have narrowed my choice down to 2 makes the clearview vision inset 5kw or woodwarm 4k or 6.5kw I would be grateful for any advice on these inset stoves.
Also I intend to install a 6" 316 flexi liner into a 8" clay liner the house is 2 story and the chimney is straight and 9mts high and in the middle of the house, Q would there enough room between flexi liner and clay liner to insulate. or would it be ok to leave it uninsulated.

Regards

couldnt recommend it enough. we put in an inset stove last year and its athe Boru inset, small heart in irish i think. some serious heat out of it, cannot sit in the room without the door open! u would pass out... great heat for such a small stove, very efficient also.

now, i am kinda sorry o didnt perhaps go for a boiler stove and had piped the yoke up to the heating too. but it would ave been a good weeks work or so. but then, thats all it is, oh and an extra grand or 2 probably.

STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

Comments