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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,121 ✭✭✭TomOnBoard


    Dtp79 wrote: »
    Read the second last line from my last post

    I specifically said that I didn't want stainless steel in the post to which you originally responded. Didn't want it then; don't want it now!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 853 ✭✭✭Pappa Charlie


    Whatever pipe you get I'm sure you'll have no shortage of hot air!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,097 ✭✭✭Dtp79


    TomOnBoard wrote: »

    I specifically said that I didn't want stainless steel in the post to which you originally responded. Didn't want it then; don't want it now!
    Is it 6" pipe you're after?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,121 ✭✭✭TomOnBoard


    Whatever pipe you get I'm sure you'll have no shortage of hot air!

    Hilarious.... And you even got a "Thanks" from Dtp. Can't wait for the 3rd Stooge to surface!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,097 ✭✭✭Dtp79


    TomOnBoard wrote: »

    Hilarious.... And you even got a "Thanks" from Dtp. Can't wait for the 3rd Stooge to surface!
    Lighten up will ya!! What size pipe you after and how long?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,884 ✭✭✭Robbie.G


    Tomonboard try ringing oriel flues in Ardee ask for Michael in the design office and tell him what your after and he will proberly be able to sort you out


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,836 ✭✭✭tea and coffee


    Is it true that it is advisable only to have single wall(?) i.e. not twin wall flue internally up to a certain height (even if it is bracketed), due to the heat rising carrying the smoke? Or can I have it as high as I like? its a double height space and I was told I would have to bring it outside after approx 2-3 m

    thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,477 ✭✭✭Hootanany


    Is it true that it is advisable only to have single wall(?) i.e. not twin wall flue internally up to a certain height (even if it is bracketed), due to the heat rising carrying the smoke? Or can I have it as high as I like? its a double height space and I was told I would have to bring it outside after approx 2-3 m

    thanks


    Off topic but did anyone else have problems with there Stove yesterday.
    Had serious down draft on my 2 stove the wind kept putting them out.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,884 ✭✭✭Robbie.G


    Is it true that it is advisable only to have single wall(?) i.e. not twin wall flue internally up to a certain height (even if it is bracketed), due to the heat rising carrying the smoke? Or can I have it as high as I like? its a double height space and I was told I would have to bring it outside after approx 2-3 m

    thanks
    Single wall can go up to 3 times the diameter of it to combustible materials.In other words if you ran single off the top of a stove it can go within 18 inches to the ceiling if using 6 inch flue.At double height it would be about 3mtrs the into twin wall if doing that bring it up to black twin wall inside it makes it look better.Its just some people don't like the look of the stainless steel


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 186 ✭✭rpmcs


    single wall should only rise 1.5 meter's off stove, then change to twin wall as any further would cool flue gas temp,


  • Registered Users Posts: 639 ✭✭✭Arsenium


    Hello again.

    Sorry if I should start a seperate thread for this. Not sure. Anyway I was here a while ago with a photo of my stove. Anyway, I have identified it as an Evergreen Holly ST1017.

    The back bolier is no longer working on it. Can anyone tell me if it is possible to get a replacement boiler for this stove. Also how much the boiler would cost and the cost of fitting it are major considerations also.

    Thanks in advance.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,097 ✭✭✭Dtp79


    Arsenium wrote: »
    Hello again.

    Sorry if I should start a seperate thread for this. Not sure. Anyway I was here a while ago with a photo of my stove. Anyway, I have identified it as an Evergreen Holly ST1017.

    The back bolier is no longer working on it. Can anyone tell me if it is possible to get a replacement boiler for this stove. Also how much the boiler would cost and the cost of fitting it are major considerations also.

    Thanks in advance.
    In what way has it stopped working? Usually the only reason to change a boiler would be if it's leaking


  • Registered Users Posts: 639 ✭✭✭Arsenium


    Dtp79 wrote: »
    In what way has it stopped working? Usually the only reason to change a boiler would be if it's leaking

    Yep. Leaking. I noticed the ashes were wet a few times then one morning I came down and there was a load of water under the stove. The boiler is disconnected now so the stove is no real benefit now apart from the heat it throws to the room.

    Also, as a result of the leak it appears my rads have gotten clogged up. As they are heating now at the top and the sides but not in the middle.

    So I need to get these flushed out. Then once I can verify that fixes the rads, either get a replacement back boiler and have it fitted / reconnected, or just take the hit and buy a new stove.

    So I am trying to work out my options here.

    Thanks again.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,097 ✭✭✭Dtp79


    Arsenium wrote: »

    Yep. Leaking. I noticed the ashes were wet a few times then one morning I came down and there was a load of water under the stove. The boiler is disconnected now so the stove is no real benefit now apart from the heat it throws to the room.

    Also, as a result of the leak it appears my rads have gotten clogged up. As they are heating now at the top and the sides but not in the middle.

    So I need to get these flushed out. Then once I can verify that fixes the rads, either get a replacement back boiler and have it fitted / reconnected, or just take the hit and buy a new stove.

    So I am trying to work out my options here.

    Thanks again.
    One way or the other your gonna need a proper flush. That's approx 500. Don't be fooled by cheap flushes being advertised.
    I've never had to change the boiler only in a Stanley stove and Stanley cookers. Did you price a new back boiler?


  • Registered Users Posts: 639 ✭✭✭Arsenium


    Dtp79 wrote: »
    One way or the other your gonna need a proper flush. That's approx 500. Don't be fooled by cheap flushes being advertised.
    I've never had to change the boiler only in a Stanley stove and Stanley cookers. Did you price a new back boiler?

    I contacted a place in Wexford who said the particular type of stove is an economy stove so they dont do the boiler for them. The lady reckoned replacing the boiler (cost of boiler and plumber etc) would be similar to the price of a new stove (well that particular stove).

    Then I contacted a place in the UK who said the boiler can be replaced and it costs 289 sterling delivered (I presume delivered in the UK). They said the stove has to be taken apart from the front and re-sealed professionally then to do this job. It has a 16Kw boiler which in fairness is a little small anyway, even if it was working properly. So I think I have to take the pain and look at a new stove. After getting the rads flushed.

    By proper flush I presume you mean taking them down and flushing them out and then putting them back on again? There are 12 rads in the house. Would 500 cover that?

    Thanks for all the info.. I appreciate it :-)


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,097 ✭✭✭Dtp79


    Arsenium wrote: »

    I contacted a place in Wexford who said the particular type of stove is an economy stove so they dont do the boiler for them. The lady reckoned replacing the boiler (cost of boiler and plumber etc) would be similar to the price of a new stove (well that particular stove).

    Then I contacted a place in the UK who said the boiler can be replaced and it costs 289 sterling delivered (I presume delivered in the UK). They said the stove has to be taken apart from the front and re-sealed professionally then to do this job. It has a 16Kw boiler which in fairness is a little small anyway, even if it was working properly. So I think I have to take the pain and look at a new stove. After getting the rads flushed.

    By proper flush I presume you mean taking them down and flushing them out and then putting them back on again? There are 12 rads in the house. Would 500 cover that?

    Thanks for all the info.. I appreciate it :-)
    No a proper flush as in using a flushing machine ( not mains water ) that washes out the rads with water at high velocity. No rads are removed from the wall. Chemicals are also used in conjunction with this and after the flush another chemical is added.


  • Registered Users Posts: 21 marber1978


    Sorry guys dont want to clog up the post, I've read through the posts and can't find an answer to my question .. Wonder if any of ye can help me?

    I've just built an extension and am kicking myself as I have changed my mind re the position of the stove in the new sitting room!

    I was thinking of putting it in the middle of the room with the double rad on the adjacent wall... However now I'm thinking of putting it in the corner of the room.. But the problem is the double rad starts about a metre away from that corner.. There's also a double plug socket on the wall.. The stove won't be with a back boiler or connected to the rads in any way, but just wondering are ere any regs re proximity of rads to multi fuel stoves???

    Also I'm looking at the Morso contemporary range.. Any tips or feedback on this model???

    All help gratefully appreciated! :)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 878 ✭✭✭rainbowdash


    TomOnBoard wrote: »
    It doesn't. It just has to be cheap.


    Try eBay


  • Registered Users Posts: 39 The Stove Man


    marber1978 wrote: »
    Sorry guys dont want to clog up the post, I've read through the posts and can't find an answer to my question .. Wonder if any of ye can help me?

    I've just built an extension and am kicking myself as I have changed my mind re the position of the stove in the new sitting room!

    I was thinking of putting it in the middle of the room with the double rad on the adjacent wall... However now I'm thinking of putting it in the corner of the room.. But the problem is the double rad starts about a metre away from that corner.. There's also a double plug socket on the wall.. The stove won't be with a back boiler or connected to the rads in any way, but just wondering are ere any regs re proximity of rads to multi fuel stoves???

    Also I'm looking at the Morso contemporary range.. Any tips or feedback on this model???

    All help gratefully appreciated! :)

    You would need the plastic control knob on the rad to be approx 500mm away from the stove to ensure it does not melt, your riser to the rad should be copper not plastic so no issue there.

    The morso contemporary range are top class as are nearly all morso stoves, however they are best suited to burning wood only as it looks and works better than coal

    Go to a stove shop and ask them to send out a fitter for a free survey to make sure the stove will work in the position you want, if the flue is going up through roof or out through wall they will need a survey to check if it will work

    If you are going to spend over 2k on a stove and flue a free survey is the least you should expect.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 168 ✭✭skodacb


    Hi folks,just wondering could anyone help.
    Currently have a 16" gas insert fire in the kitchen with a back boiler behind it from when we had coal. The fire place in the sitting room is back to back with this, but has a separate flue.
    Considering getting the cara plus insert stove http://www.waterfordstanley.com/stanley-stoves/room-heat-central-heating/solid-fuel/caraplus-insert-stove.aspx

    All the original piping for the back boiler is still in place would just need to be reconnected, or would the original back boiler need to be removed and piping replaced.

    Would anything be needed to be done to the fire place in the sitting room as well.

    Any help or advice is appreciated.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 199 ✭✭Tinder


    Hi Guys,
    Just trying to tap into the knowledge base here if you don't mind.

    I am looking to gt an insert stove with boiler, our house is a small 3 bed cottege with 7 rads. The sitting room to which the insert is going into is very small and I don't want to be roasted out of it once the stove is in place.

    I am down to three options I think,

    The Chieftan insert by Brou 2k to room and 15k to the water,

    The Henley Achill boiler 3.8 to the room and 11.2 to water or

    The Stratford Ecoboiler, 3 to the room and 7k to the water.

    The sitting room size is 12'x14' height standard. The house is well insulated with cavity and roof recently done.

    Any advise is greatly appreciated.

    T


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 244 ✭✭Brianne


    Tinder what size are the rads? Is one of those rads in the sitting room? You won't be roasted out of it in your sitting room with any insert boiler stove. Our sitting room is 16x12 so thats roughly the same as yours. We have the Yola 17kw insert. 14 to water and 3 to room. We also have a long double rad in sittingroom which is always on. We find the Yola great to heat the rads. Nice big window and a very big firebox. There are 2 other Yola inserts. A 10 and a 12 kw.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 199 ✭✭Tinder


    Hi Brainne,

    Yes there is a rad on the wall in the sitting room, all the rads are single rads.

    4 rads are 150x50 2 bedroom, sitting room and kitchen
    2 are 90x50 box room and hallway
    and the bathroom is a double rad 50x50

    Thanks in advance.

    T


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 244 ✭✭Brianne


    Just to give you an idea, our sitting room and kitchen rads are 162x50 (both double). The hall and 1 bedroom are same length but single. The other 3 bedrooms are 132x50, all single. I think you need a lesser output to rads than what we have. Especially the fact you're house is so well insulated, ours is not that well insulated as yours. You still need an output of at least 3 to room I reckon. As I mentioned we have 3 to room plus double rad on all time.
    The Chieftan is only 2 to room which is not much and 15 to water. You dont need 15 to water. The Stratford seems to have a very good name but 7 could be too low to water for you. The Henley would be most suited of the 3 you mention. Don't know anything about it. Again we're very pleased with the Yola and its totally Irish made and the 12 output one could be the best for you. Theres also a Firebird insert, totally Irish made and we went to see that with somebody that had it and they were really pleased with it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 199 ✭✭Tinder


    Thanks a mill Brainne

    Leaning towards the Hanley to be honest, saw it yesterday. Must look up the firebird.

    t


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 244 ✭✭Brianne


    The Henley Achill does'nt seem to be a boiler stove. If you could ask the guy where you're purchasing could he tell you of somebody that has the stove you're interested in and try and get to see it working before you buy. Thats what we did with a few different types. People are only glad to let you see their stoves. Also shop around for best prices. We did'nt and paid way too much.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,403 ✭✭✭Audioslaven


    marber1978 wrote: »
    Sorry guys dont want to clog up the post, I've read through the posts and can't find an answer to my question .. Wonder if any of ye can help me?

    I've just built an extension and am kicking myself as I have changed my mind re the position of the stove in the new sitting room!

    I was thinking of putting it in the middle of the room with the double rad on the adjacent wall... However now I'm thinking of putting it in the corner of the room.. But the problem is the double rad starts about a metre away from that corner.. There's also a double plug socket on the wall.. The stove won't be with a back boiler or connected to the rads in any way, but just wondering are ere any regs re proximity of rads to multi fuel stoves???

    Also I'm looking at the Morso contemporary range.. Any tips or feedback on this model???

    All help gratefully appreciated! :)

    I have the morso 1448 and am really happy with it. I also have a stanley tara but it is not a patch on the morso


  • Registered Users Posts: 3 maeve1308


    Tinder wrote: »
    Hi Guys,
    Just trying to tap into the knowledge base here if you don't mind.

    I am looking to gt an insert stove with boiler, our house is a small 3 bed cottege with 7 rads. The sitting room to which the insert is going into is very small and I don't want to be roasted out of it once the stove is in place.

    I am down to three options I think,

    The Chieftan insert by Brou 2k to room and 15k to the water,

    The Henley Achill boiler 3.8 to the room and 11.2 to water or

    The Stratford Ecoboiler, 3 to the room and 7k to the water.

    The sitting room size is 12'x14' height standard. The house is well insulated with cavity and roof recently done.

    Any advise is greatly appreciated

    T
    hi maeve1308 here, my neighbour put in a Charnwood slx45 only last week, she shopped around and went for the Charnwood as it is on the market a long time, it's made in the uk, unlike Henley as I now know are brought in from china, and we are led to believe they are made in Kerry, anyway she is over the moon with her stove, the places she recommended were Ryan stoves( whom I just dealt with and very happy ) or Murphys hope this helps


  • Registered Users Posts: 413 ✭✭crazy_kenny


    Anyone know any suppliers of double sided stoves?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 199 ✭✭Tinder


    Brianne wrote: »
    The Henley Achill does'nt seem to be a boiler stove. If you could ask the guy where you're purchasing could he tell you of somebody that has the stove you're interested in and try and get to see it working before you buy. Thats what we did with a few different types. People are only glad to let you see their stoves. Also shop around for best prices. We did'nt and paid way too much.

    Thanks Brainne.

    They have made it into a boiler stove, I know it's weird that it is not on their website at the moment, but I saw it in the flesh and have a brochure at home. The made in china bit is putting me off a bit, will that make much difference, most things are made in China these days.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 244 ✭✭Brianne


    Some people would'nt go for a stove made in China as they feel the quality is inferior. Thats only what I've read by some posters on this forum so personally I don't know. A lot of the big names like Stanley etc don't seem to be Irish made anymore. I'm sure there are lots of people here with stoves made in China and are happy with them. It did put me off a bit I must say so I was happy to go with an Irish one.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 454 ✭✭jezko


    Brianne wrote: »
    Firebird insert, totally Irish made and we went to see that with somebody that had it and they were really pleased with it.

    My Parents are not happy with their 17Kw Firebird, Lot's of Smoke pours in to room as soon as door is opened, burning dried hardwood (Ash/Elder etc.)
    The Suppliers are blaming the installer, not their problem.
    The Installer has been doing stoves for years here and UK.
    His first time with the Firebird.
    Wasn't Impressed with the room heating 2Kw ?? But water heating not bad
    I would loved to have gotten an Irish made stove but Yola has Min 5 weeks waiting list.


  • Registered Users Posts: 71 ✭✭newtothis2011


    Can anyone here tell me why my stove gives out loads of smoke when i refuel it? When i open the door its ok but then when I put in coal or timber loads of smoke comes out the top, would a down draught be the problem??
    Thanks.


  • Registered Users Posts: 30 blue100


    Robbie.G wrote: »
    Fairly straight away.you have the burn off for the first few lights but then it should be grand.What setup is your flue is the adaptor used Or did you go for flexi liner.
    Are you using your dampers top one closed and bottom one opened for lighting when established close down bottom damper and opentopslider one about half should give you all the heat you need.If not check that you 2 baffles are fitted correctly

    Hi Robbie, I'm still having issues. Installer called today and said everything is fitted properly. He brought his own fuel (ecobright coal) and thought the heat output was ok for the period he was there, but I am not convinced. The unit heats up but isn't giving out any greater heat, in my view, than an open fire. With the cold evenings, I need the radiator on in the room too, which I really think shouldn't be the case. (Per measurements room requires 5.5kw, stove is supposed to give out 6.5kw.)

    With an insert stove, I believe that the convection mechanism works such that the heat comes out the vents above the door. Should I feel heat coming out the top? I don't at present, main heat is through the glass panel. I am concerned that the convection mechanism isn't working properly. I would appreciate any advice you (or other posters) may have. Thanks.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 244 ✭✭Brianne


    jezko wrote: »
    My Parents are not happy with their 17Kw Firebird, Lot's of Smoke pours in to room as soon as door is opened, burning dried hardwood (Ash/Elder etc.)
    The Suppliers are blaming the installer, not their problem.
    The Installer has been doing stoves for years here and UK.
    His first time with the Firebird.
    Wasn't Impressed with the room heating 2Kw ?? But water heating not bad
    I would loved to have gotten an Irish made stove but Yola has Min 5 weeks waiting list.

    Thats very disappointing. There was a stage and we were going to go with that so glad we did'nt. Is it only 2 to room, thats very little. Certainly any insert won't roast the room on their own. You're really depending on them to heat the rads well.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 10,910 ✭✭✭✭RoundyMooney


    Hi everyone.

    Hoping to go with an arched insert non boiler multifuel stove (be it new or secondhand, presumably the former is best). 18". I gather that the arch dimensions seem to be standard enough, so all I need really are recommendations, and just a clarification on the install itself. It's a modern (lined chimney) so will I need a flue? Additionally, when it comes to install, is it a simple matter of fitting the insert, sealing with fire rope, and the same with the stove itself?

    Many thanks, guys.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 10,910 ✭✭✭✭RoundyMooney


    Sorry, I should have added that I'm looking in the 7kW range.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,836 ✭✭✭tea and coffee


    Hi I was hoping to put an inset back boiler stove in an upstairs sitting room. The hot water cylinder is on same floor and then the water tank is one floor above in attic.
    Is this possible?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,836 ✭✭✭tea and coffee


    Hi I was hoping to put an inset back boiler stove in an upstairs sitting room. The hot water cylinder is on same floor and then the water tank is one floor above in attic.
    Is this possible?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,477 ✭✭✭Hootanany


    Hootanany wrote: »
    Off topic but did anyone else have problems with there Stove yesterday.
    Had serious down draft on my 2 stove the wind kept putting them out.

    Cheers to all:o


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,978 ✭✭✭Citizenpain


    Looking for some advise please

    Currently building an extension and want to put in an insert multi-fuel non boiler stove; something like the TR8C. is a block built chimney breast the best way to go? I guess we will need a granite hearth but will the breast also need a granite panel or tiles?

    Sorry if this has been asked a million times before!!!

    CP


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,054 ✭✭✭Zipppy


    Hi
    Looking at getting a stove to replace an inset gas fire we have.

    Aside of the cost of the stove we have gotten a quote of over 2K to take out gas fire, do some break out/rebuild work at fireplace, install flue etc...

    This seems insanity ? Stove is less that 1k but it comes to 3k including install ??


  • Registered Users Posts: 59 ✭✭Tillerman08


    Apologies if Im just repeating a question to a previous post! I am looking into buying a stove for a new build. We have 18 rads in house and these rads are doubles. I am looking at buying a stove that will heat 15-18 rads (budget)! Our heating system will be zoned and therefore we will only ever need to heat 12 rads max at a time and not all (36) at once. My question is would I be better off going for a stove that will be able to heat over 20 rads or will the 15-18 rads stove be good enough for what I want. The stove we are looking at is the Inishmeain Mk 2 boiler stove!

    Thanks in advance for the help


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 107 ✭✭Tifosi


    Anyone know any suppliers of double sided stoves?

    Are you looking for insert or freestanding. If it is insert you are looking for I am aware of a few, what Kw rating are you looking for.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 172 ✭✭Anne Other


    Has anybody advice to give me re a HENLEY DRUID STOVE?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,884 ✭✭✭Robbie.G


    Zipppy wrote: »
    Hi
    Looking at getting a stove to replace an inset gas fire we have.

    Aside of the cost of the stove we have gotten a quote of over 2K to take out gas fire, do some break out/rebuild work at fireplace, install flue etc...

    This seems insanity ? Stove is less that 1k but it comes to 3k including install ??
    Need a lot more info what stove? Freestanding or inset?what chinmney adjustments are you talking is the chimney goin to be relined flexi liner?
    But all that said 3k sounds a bit much but impossible to give accurate price if your unhappy with your quote look for others


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,291 ✭✭✭paul71


    Anybody know anything about bypassing the need for rads completely and venting warm air from the stove to all rooms in a house? I am particularly looking at pacificenergy stoves from Canada. The idea is that without a backboiler cooling the stove the energy output is more efficient and using electric fans a 21kw can heat 180 m2 home.

    I would appreciate input from anyone with more knowledge on this.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,884 ✭✭✭Robbie.G


    paul71 wrote: »
    Anybody know anything about bypassing the need for rads completely and venting warm air from the stove to all rooms in a house? I am particularly looking at pacificenergy stoves from Canada. The idea is that without a backboiler cooling the stove the energy output is more efficient and using electric fans a 21kw can heat 180 m2 home.

    I would appreciate input from anyone with more knowledge on this.
    Check out this crowd.they have something that might suit
    http://vesta-heat.com/


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,291 ✭✭✭paul71


    Robbie.G wrote: »
    Check out this crowd.they have something that might suit
    http://vesta-heat.com/

    The idea is the right and in addition to the venting I had not thought of a heat exchange system, that would result in a bigger saving but the stove is 76% efficiency rating. The stoves I was looking at have a 90% EPA efficiency rating. I am not sure if the efficiency ratings in Canada/America are different to the ones here.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,819 ✭✭✭micks_address


    hi guys, the topic of a stove is something that comes up quite a bit in our house. When we moved in, the sitting room had a gas fire fitted, so we had that removed and just put in a grate and proper fireback, we light the fire from september to april depending on weather etc and love it. We burn a mixture of turf/coal/some wood blocks and briquettes.

    We have talked about adding a stove as a) they are more efficient and b)out daughter suffers from asthma and my wife thinks that the open fire is probably adding smoke to the room that we could do without.

    Now we ideally it would be great to add a stove that would also heat the water, but there is no plumbing there for it. I assume we'd need to at least run two pipes to our hot water cylinder, possibly change the cylinder for a double coiled one and add a second circulation pump? Our main heating is a gas boiler that is in the house at least 15 years.

    The other question is space. We have a marble hearth about 20" deep in front of the current fireplace. If we were to go with a stove would we be able to fit it on the current hearth - and is it easy enough to flu up to our existing chimney?

    Other question is re chimney fires with stoves - we actually had one last year with our open fire, a piece of paper floated up the chimney and set it off, no damage done but was a bit scary! Are stoves safer in terms of chimney fires?

    Apologies if these questions are already covered in the thread

    Cheers,
    Mick


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