STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

MugMugs

@micks_address

You can get an inset stove. Something like this which won't protude too much more onto the hearth. I am presuming if you're able to burn an open fire without issue that your fire place would meet up to what's required for this. This is an Esse301.

An Esse350 can be rigged up to a back boiler but if you don't already have one then you're looking at a lot of work to get one rigged.

In relation to your chimney, you'd probably be best having her lined with a flexi flue but honestly, should consider having a pro out to view it himself and advise accordingly.

Zipppy

Robbie.G wrote: »

Need a lot more info what stove? Freestanding or inset?what chinmney adjustments are you talking is the chimney goin to be relined flexi liner?
But all that said 3k sounds a bit much but impossible to give accurate price if your unhappy with your quote look for others

Free standing Inis stove..work will involved breaking out current opening (to make it bigger) with blocks, plastering etc...and I gather a flue will need to be fitted in chimney..

micks_address

Thanks,

From a cost point of view its looks from a quick google that the Esse301 would be about 1100, how much would relining the flu be? Looks like an ideal solution for us.. do you get the same heat output as say a freestanding stove?

Cheers,
Mick

MugMugs wrote: »

@micks_address

You can get an inset stove. Something like this which won't protude too much more onto the hearth. I am presuming if you're able to burn an open fire without issue that your fire place would meet up to what's required for this. This is an Esse301.

An Esse350 can be rigged up to a back boiler but if you don't already have one then you're looking at a lot of work to get one rigged.

In relation to your chimney, you'd probably be best having her lined with a flexi flue but honestly, should consider having a pro out to view it himself and advise accordingly.

Bligh

Hi Everyone, this is a very informative thread and feel more informed in realtion to the type of stove I want, but a would like to have a few thoughts on my set up.

I have a 2500 sq feet house with main Heating system being oil. I have 19 rads a mixture of single and double with 7 of turned off and only turned on if required.

In the living room I have a fire with back boiler, which is hopeless at heating the rads. I planing to change this to a Boru Carrick Mor 30kw, has anyone any experience of this stove?

How well does it perform in realtion to heat output and fuel consumption.

My plan will be to light it in the morning and leave it running all day does anyone do this?

Many thanks

Brianne

Mick you will not get the same output of heat atall into the room from an insert as from the freestanding. We got a Yola insert in last year, which I must say we are very pleased with. Its fantastic for the rads. Our room is 16 x 12 and we have a large double rad in it which we certainly need. The Yola comes out 5'' and we have 14'' of heart in front of it so your marble heart is fine. Again we 're really happy with this stove, big window, large firebox so looks like your own fire is still there! What I find very good also is we get very little window blackening atall with it. We paid 630 euro for best grade chimney liner 904 Thats not including labour as he had lots of other work to do so I can't give you a breakdown.
As regards being cleaner than open fire, I think thats the main reason I went for it. What size is your sitting room?

micks_address

Thanks Brianne,

I havent measured our room in a while but at a guess its about 15 foot by 15 foot.

We have a double rad in it as well, but we dont have a back boiler. We find with the open fire it just gives us a nice cosy feeling in the sitting room and we sometimes turn off the rad if its to much, but we obviously then have the heat on to heat the rads upstairs etc. Its a pity our fireplace isnt plumbed for a back boiler as obviously it would make a lot of sense to be able to heat some of the rads while burning fuel in the fire!

Anyway I'll measue up and I'll probably get a quotation during the summer, we'll probably look at getting the work done before september in time for next winter.

Cheers,
Mick

Brianne wrote: »

Mick you will not get the same output of heat atall into the room from an insert as from the freestanding. We got a Yola insert in last year, which I must say we are very pleased with. Its fantastic for the rads. Our room is 16 x 12 and we have a large double rad in it which we certainly need. The Yola comes out 5'' and we have 14'' of heart in front of it so your marble heart is fine. Again we 're really happy with this stove, big window, large firebox so looks like your own fire is still there! What I find very good also is we get very little window blackening atall with it. We paid 630 euro for best grade chimney liner 904 Thats not including labour as he had lots of other work to do so I can't give you a breakdown.
As regards being cleaner than open fire, I think thats the main reason I went for it. What size is your sitting room?

Brianne

Yes certainly the fire throws out fantastic heat into the room. I miss that part! They do say the non boiler inserts do throw more heat out than the boiler ones. Theres only an output of 3 to room from our one where I see you can get the non boiler ones with a way higher output to room so do keep enquiring into it. You really need to see one in use in somebodys house before you decide as its a fairly big decision.

Cillfeicin

So I have geothermal heating with under floor which runs on night rate. I have my tank in the garage with insulated piping bringing the hot water to the house. I have found the conservatory which is a playroom for the kid’s cold and am looking at putting in place a stove to heat the downstairs during the day/evenings. Some options I am looking at are.
1 .5KW no boiler stove in conservatory with flue going through the roof
2. 5kw non boiler stove in the living room which has opening to kitchen and conservatory.
3. Stove with boiler with pipe running into attic to tank to heat water
4. Stove with boiler with pipe running into conservatory for rad.
5. Stove with boiler with pipe running into conservatory for rad as well as heating 2 more rads in converted attic as well as heating water.

The problems with (3,4,5) are no tank or boiler in house .so could I do the following
Install Stove with boiler in existing blocked up fireplace run pipe up the chimney to attic (2story with converted attic) 30 feet. Put hot water tank in attic and connect this to existing hot water system, 2 rads in attic as well as running pipe back down chimney to heat a rad in the conservatory. So is this totally mad or what. What do you suggest?

mjmc4004

Is it ok to have the stove going directly into the rads and not piped to the cylinder so only the rads get heat ?

Robbie.G

mjmc4004 wrote: »

Is it ok to have the stove going directly into the rads and not piped to the cylinder so only the rads get heat ?

No it's not ok.If fitting a boiler stove you must run a gravity circuit to the cylinder this is also for safety and the heating system must be open vented.

Robbie.G

Cillfeicin wrote: »

So I have geothermal heating with under floor which runs on night rate. I have my tank in the garage with insulated piping bringing the hot water to the house. I have found the conservatory which is a playroom for the kid’s cold and am looking at putting in place a stove to heat the downstairs during the day/evenings. Some options I am looking at are.
1 .5KW no boiler stove in conservatory with flue going through the roof
2. 5kw non boiler stove in the living room which has opening to kitchen and conservatory.
3. Stove with boiler with pipe running into attic to tank to heat water
4. Stove with boiler with pipe running into conservatory for rad.
5. Stove with boiler with pipe running into conservatory for rad as well as heating 2 more rads in converted attic as well as heating water.

The problems with (3,4,5) are no tank or boiler in house .so could I do the following
Install Stove with boiler in existing blocked up fireplace run pipe up the chimney to attic (2story with converted attic) 30 feet. Put hot water tank in attic and connect this to existing hot water system, 2 rads in attic as well as running pipe back down chimney to heat a rad in the conservatory. So is this totally mad or what. What do you suggest?

The boiler stove option will not work as with moving your cylinder to the attic there will be no expansion off the stove and if will pitch constantly so this is a non runner.

Go with getting a non boiler stove fitted in livingroom and let the heat circulate the conservatory.I would under no circumstances fit a stove in a children's playroom as once lit they are highly dangerous due to the fact that the stove will get extremely hot and if a child touched it.

Robbie.G

Zipppy wrote: »

Free standing Inis stove..work will involved breaking out current opening (to make it bigger) with blocks, plastering etc...and I gather a flue will need to be fitted in chimney..

If you wanted to keep costs down you could always go for a insert stove there is very little work to chimney and fireplace for them otherwise get additional quotes for the works

mjmc4004

Robbie.G wrote: »

No it's not ok.If fitting a boiler stove you must run a gravity circuit to the cylinder this is also for safety and the heating system must be open vented.

Thanks for your reply

What if I use a heat exchanger on the cylinder if I don't have a extra coil or should i try to get an extra coil fitted .....or change cylinder?

mjmc4004

Robbie.G wrote: »

No it's not ok.If fitting a boiler stove you must run a gravity circuit to the cylinder this is also for safety and the heating system must be open vented.

Thanks for your reply

What if I use a heat exchanger on the cylinder if I don't have a extra coil or should i try to get an extra coil fitted .....or change cylinder?

Robbie.G

mjmc4004 wrote: »

Thanks for your reply

What if I use a heat exchanger on the cylinder if I don't have a extra coil or should i try to get an extra coil fitted .....or change cylinder?

What type of heating do you have oil/gas
Sealed or open system
You would need a dual coil cylinder and if a sealed system a plate heat exchanger but then your getting into a lot of expense

Dtp79

mjmc4004 wrote: »

Thanks for your reply

What if I use a heat exchanger on the cylinder if I don't have a extra coil or should i try to get an extra coil fitted .....or change cylinder?

Better off changing your cylinder and Maybe go up a size while your at it cause you'll have loads of hot water with your stove

mjmc4004

Robbie.G wrote: »

What type of heating do you have oil/gas
Sealed or open system
You would need a dual coil cylinder and if a sealed system a plate heat exchanger but then your getting into a lot of expense

Hi Robbie

Its a 300 liter dual coil cylinder with open vented system with oil and solar for heating the water ...the stove was in the cylinder ,then took it out to put in the solar ...originally I got the cylinder made for all three but turned out there's only two coils so now the stove is not going in to the cylinder and its pitching like mad ...most of the hot water from the rads ends up on the footpath

mikehn

Looking for advice, I have been offered a Stanley Errigal oil stove but I want something that will run on solid fuel which I have a plentiful supply of.
This Errigal is not a conversion, it was a factory oil installation so I am wondering if it is possible to convert it to burn solid fuel.
Any opinions would be appreciated.
Cheers

paddy147

Does anyone know where in Ireland I can get 2 meters of 14mm thick stove rope seal??

The biggest size anyone seems to stock is 12mm.

I need 14mm for my Stovax Riva 66 stove.

Robbie.G

mikehn wrote: »

Looking for advice, I have been offered a Stanley Errigal oil stove but I want something that will run on solid fuel which I have a plentiful supply of.
This Errigal is not a conversion, it was a factory oil installation so I am wondering if it is possible to convert it to burn solid fuel.
Any opinions would be appreciated.
Cheers

It's not possible to convert the stove to solid fuel AFAIK
If in doubt contact Stanley in Waterford

Robbie.G

mjmc4004 wrote: »

Hi Robbie

Its a 300 liter dual coil cylinder with open vented system with oil and solar for heating the water ...the stove was in the cylinder ,then took it out to put in the solar ...originally I got the cylinder made for all three but turned out there's only two coils so now the stove is not going in to the cylinder and its pitching like mad ...most of the hot water from the rads ends up on the footpath

In that case your as well ordering a triple coil cylinder it's the only way around this
Also look at the stove pump and open vent get them checked to make sure that these are contributing to the pitching

Robbie.G

paddy147 wrote: »

Does anyone know where in Ireland I can get 2 meters of 14mm thick stove rope seal??

The biggest size anyone seems to stock is 12mm.

I need 14mm for my Stovax Riva 66 stove.

Try your local Dpl they might have some if not your just goin to have to order it

jem

Hi all, great tread.
I hope someone will be able to give me advise pls.
We built the house 20 years ago.#
At the time we put in an inside oil boiler. this unusually had a chimney.
The oil boiler is now outside and the chimney still in the kitchen. Now thinking about puting in solid fuel boiler.
I attach 3 photos. The size of the "hole" is 580mm deep by 470 wide. The chimney is 920mm
We partially covered the hole with false front and an electric fire for effect over it.
The pipes are still there from the oil boiler at the back of the "hole"
Wondering how hard to install stove. can we do insert type? we have closed system in attic, can this be changed easily last can existing hot water cylinder be adjusted to allow for the solid fuel. (its only 2 years old and an unusual size( high and narrow)
Thanks
j

2013-03-31 21.21.05.jpg

2013-03-31 21.15.21.jpg
2013-03-31 21.16.19.jpg

mikehn

Thanks Robbie, I feared as much, I will try Stanley on Tues and post if they suggest anuthing.
Cheers

ebyr

Hi all,

I'm looking to install a boiler stove and remove open fire. With the cost of oil now it's just nuts! I've a good bit of research done so I'll explain where I am to date.

House is a dormer bungalow-upstairs not used, however if I'm fitting a stove I might as well get one that can heat all rads (if possible).

Rads downstairs (all .450 high)
Doubles - 1 x 2000, 1 x 1800, 3 x 1400, 2 x 1200, 2 x 700
Singles - 2 x 1000, 1 x 700

Rads upstairs (all .450 high)
Double - 4 x 1200, 1 x 1000, 1 x 600
Single - 1 x 1000

Hot water cylinder (HWC) = 200l

I've calculated the btu for downstairs rads and HWC at 55,000 + 15, 000, is this accurate?
Also, I've calculated upstairs btu at 30,000, is this accurate?

As mentioned, my main concern is downstairs so if it's not possible to get a stove to heat rads upstairs too (without using a small forest) I wouldn't be that bothered. I've narrowed it down to 3 stoves- The Henley Druid 30kw, The Hamco Glenmore 30kw, and the Yola 25kw. If I could get opinions on these makes in terms of performance, for example, how long would a 1.4 cubic meter bag of kiln-dried logs last burning for six hours each evening during winter using a 30kw stove a maximum efficiency? An opinion on correct stove size that would be great also.

Also, to the best of my knowledge, the current central heating system (CHS) is a closed pressurised one and the the HWC is a single coil (i think). I'd really be grateful for some expert insight into installation and my other queries before I make my final decision.

Thanks

ebyr

Brianne

Ebyr as regards fuel usage, we have a 17kw insert boiler stove which is also a Yola and which has a very large firebox. This is what we find, in order to get and keep the heat in the rads coal is the best, we use all smokeless. We also use timber but with timber and coal together it burns away too quickly and you dont get the same heat as coal on its own when it reddens up. We are definitely using quite a lot more coal with the stove than we did with the open fire and back boiler.

graycore

hi there people could any one tel me what the boru stoves are like i am thinking of fitting one....... its a 30 kw stove..... or what would be the best i have 12 rads there all doubles..... two of them ore 3ft rads the rest are around 5ft doubles.......

graycore

hi there people i am looking for a bit of help........ does any one know about the boru stoves i am thinking of putting in a 30 kw boru stove i have 12 rads..... two of them are 3ft doubles and the rest are roughly 5ft doubles.....

CEOLGRA

Hi I am just started renovating and extending old cottage. I am getting an oil burner external installed for heating 9 rads with thermo static valves fitted.

Extension will have kitchen dining Room vaulted ceiling 6m X 5m x 8m heigh. - solo 6 rad. Think that's enough I had older model of solo rad in other house and was happy with them.
Other rooms will have normal rads.

Cottage living room has large old open fireplace which used to have bellows to get fire going.. you can look up chimney and see sky.. Size of room is 9ft x 15ft. 8ft high ceilings.

Am putting stove into old chimmny space. Was going for boiler stove to compliment oil system,. Am out working all day, only me, kids reared. And when I get home light stove etc., and then can turn off soul.

Questions/advice
Do I but a non boiler stove .. if so what size.
Boiler stove... if so what size.
Or recently someone suggested. Oil burning stove..

micks_address

Hi Guys,

I'm back again - was looking at a few stove inserts over the weekend.

Am leaning towards the Stanley Cara Insert stove but have a few questions

1) Its stated output is 6kw - in a separate shop that does Boru stoves only they said that anything above 5 KW output would cause a problem for our timber frame surround. Its a really chunky fire surround and we've never had any problem with the open fire. Will this be an issue we need to worry about? The Boru's allow you to fit a deflector plate - would we need something simillar with the Stanley?

3) Flu - the Stanley comes with the flu adapter kit, but i priced a complete flu kit and its only 165 euro, that would be a 5" flexible flu that goes from the stove to the top of the chimney and is attached at the top of the chimeny with a clamp. Is this a good way to go if you have any doubts about the integrity of the current flu? The sales guy also said its more efficient as you have less of a flu to take away heat etc. Would there be any concerns with cleaning a 5" flu?

4) Insert size, i measured our opening and we are about 10 millimetres to wide, but im guess thats not a huge issue, but the opening is about 6 cm's higher than the front of the Cara insert, what would the solution be there? We have marble on the front so wouldnt want to interfere, could you put a brick under the cara to raise the height and then finish it off someway to tidy up?

5) Was chatting my uncle over the weekend and he has a neighbour who put in an insert stove and wasnt happy with it at all! I didnt get much more info other than it was smoky and not very efficient and dirty and they took it out again and went back to the open fire... Is that a common experience?

Cheers,
Mick

Cheers,
Mick

micks_address wrote: »

Thanks Brianne,

I havent measured our room in a while but at a guess its about 15 foot by 15 foot.

We have a double rad in it as well, but we dont have a back boiler. We find with the open fire it just gives us a nice cosy feeling in the sitting room and we sometimes turn off the rad if its to much, but we obviously then have the heat on to heat the rads upstairs etc. Its a pity our fireplace isnt plumbed for a back boiler as obviously it would make a lot of sense to be able to heat some of the rads while burning fuel in the fire!

Anyway I'll measue up and I'll probably get a quotation during the summer, we'll probably look at getting the work done before september in time for next winter.

Cheers,
Mick

Fingers Mcginty

micks_address wrote: »

5) Was chatting my uncle over the weekend and he has a neighbour who put in an insert stove and wasnt happy with it at all! I didnt get much more info other than it was smoky and not very efficient and dirty and they took it out again and went back to the open fire... Is that a common experience?

Cheers,
Mick

Cheers,
Mick

Just speaking for myself here but we had an open fire in a previous house and really missed it when we moved into our current house which had a gas fire which was complete crap. Ripped it out and put in an insert stove as the mrs wanted to keep the look of the fire surround. It's an innisboffin from innistoves and I have to say it's fantastic. Some heat off it and all we burn in it is logs/briquettes. Has airwash sytem also so glass hardly ever blackens unless damper is fully closed.

Sanchez83

Hi Ebyr,

While i am not an expert a 30kw stove[100k Plus Btus] should do the job for both upstairs and downstairs.

My father purchased a Henley druid 30kw to replace a solid fuel range in January and he loves it.He says it heats up quite fast[approx 20-30mins]and easily heats the 20 or so rads in his house. Ok i am not sure exactly what BTUs his house requires but it sounds similar.

He burns a mixture of coal and wood and would have the stove going for approx 12hrs every day! We were only talking about it the weekend and he reckons he is spending half what he was spending beforehand on fuel.
Ive never burnt Kiln dried wood but from what ive heard it burns quite fast no matter what you burn it in.

He even sticks the kettle and pots of food to simmer on it as its made from steel.
When he was buying it he was told that all the big European manufacturers are making most of their stoves in steel now.

I have a Stanley Erin Cast Iron myself and while its great if i could change to a steel stove in the morning i would.I get home in the evening around 6 and have to wait until about 7.30 for the place to heat up.

albert kidd

hi all,

my father is planning on taking the plunge and getting a boiler stove.

the house(bungelow) was built 30 years ago which had a back boiler to the open fire..the back boiler hasnt been used in ten years and he now has oil central heating.

the cyclinder and hotpress are next to the fireplace in an alcove boxed off..probably a foot or so away and a radiator on the wall probably 3 feet away..is the position of these ok being so near the stove?

will it be ok to plumb into the pipes that serviced the old back boiler to the cycliner from the new stove?

also anyone's advice on a stove which will fire out about 4kw to room and then will heat 8 single rads.

cheers guys.

smallwonder

After nearly a year of stalking this forum I finally got me a stove. It's been in 2 weeks and I've lit a fire everyday and loving the fact that its heating me and my radiators. The problem is that smoke belches out every time I refuel. I got a spinning cowl fitted last week but its made no difference (except to my wallet!) The installer wants to cut holes in the baffle (throat) plate but I'm a bit wary of that option for all the obvious reasons.
There seems to be a huge build up of soot and its taking me longer and longer to clean them darn windows too.
Any suggestions?

Robbie.G

smallwonder wrote: »

After nearly a year of stalking this forum I finally got me a stove. It's been in 2 weeks and I've lit a fire everyday and loving the fact that its heating me and my radiators. The problem is that smoke belches out every time I refuel. I got a spinning cowl fitted last week but its made no difference (except to my wallet!) The installer wants to cut holes in the baffle (throat) plate but I'm a bit wary of that option for all the obvious reasons.
There seems to be a huge build up of soot and its taking me longer and longer to clean them darn windows too.
Any suggestions?

Is there a vent in the room is there a extractor fan in the room? What fuel are you using what's the set up with your flue

smallwonder

Robbie.G wrote: »

Is there a vent in the room is there a extractor fan in the room? What fuel are you using what's the set up with your flue

Hi Robbie,
There's a kitchen extractor fan but its never used. I'm using coal mainly, some turf. The flue is going up through the roof, twinwalled from ceiling. I think maybe the flue isn't high enough on the roof??
I've attached some pics to give you a better idea.

Robbie.G

smallwonder wrote: »

Hi Robbie,
There's a kitchen extractor fan but its never used. I'm using coal mainly, some turf. The flue is going up through the roof, twinwalled from ceiling. I think maybe the flue isn't high enough on the roof??
I've attached some pics to give you a better idea.

Flue looks a bit on the low side it should be higher than the ridge
Make sure there is a permanently open vent in the room
What coal are you using because for a stove it should be anthracite

albert kidd

albert kidd wrote: »

hi all,

my father is planning on taking the plunge and getting a boiler stove.

the house(bungelow) was built 30 years ago which had a back boiler to the open fire..the back boiler hasnt been used in ten years and he now has oil central heating.

the cyclinder and hotpress are next to the fireplace in an alcove boxed off..probably a foot or so away and a radiator on the wall probably 3 feet away..is the position of these ok being so near the stove?

will it be ok to plumb into the pipes that serviced the old back boiler to the cycliner from the new stove?

also anyone's advice on a stove which will fire out about 4kw to room and then will heat 8 single rads.

cheers guys.

bump:o

smallwonder

Robbie.G wrote: »

Flue looks a bit on the low side it should be higher than the ridge
Make sure there is a permanently open vent in the room
What coal are you using because for a stove it should be anthracite

What do you mean by a permanently open vent? Should I be leaving the extractor fan on?
I'm using Colombian coal. The installer said that's the best. I'm not sure what anthracite is:o

jem

jem wrote: »

Hi all, great tread.
I hope someone will be able to give me advise pls.
We built the house 20 years ago.#
At the time we put in an inside oil boiler. this unusually had a chimney.
The oil boiler is now outside and the chimney still in the kitchen. Now thinking about puting in solid fuel boiler.
I attach 3 photos. The size of the "hole" is 580mm deep by 470 wide. The chimney is 920mm
We partially covered the hole with false front and an electric fire for effect over it.
The pipes are still there from the oil boiler at the back of the "hole"
Wondering how hard to install stove. can we do insert type? we have closed system in attic, can this be changed easily last can existing hot water cylinder be adjusted to allow for the solid fuel. (its only 2 years old and an unusual size( high and narrow)
Thanks
j

2013-03-31 21.21.05.jpg

2013-03-31 21.15.21.jpg
2013-03-31 21.16.19.jpg

Very gentle bump

Brianne

Albert our hotpress is right next to the fire also as we were told that the nearer to the back boiler the better it works when we were building a few years short of 30 years ago. We had our back boiler and fire in action until last November when we changed to an insert stove. There was nt any problem doing it. Our insert is heating 5 large single and 2 large double rads very well. Our room is 16 x 12 approx but we have a large double rad in that room also which we definitely need. Theres 3 to room from stove but the heat does nt hit you like it did from the fire so thats why your depending on it being very good to heat the rads but we are very pleased with it in general.

albert kidd

Brianne wrote: »

Albert our hotpress is right next to the fire also as we were told that the nearer to the back boiler the better it works when we were building a few years short of 30 years ago. We had our back boiler and fire in action until last November when we changed to an insert stove. There was nt any problem doing it. Our insert is heating 5 large single and 2 large double rads very well. Our room is 16 x 12 approx but we have a large double rad in that room also which we definitely need. Theres 3 to room from stove but the heat does nt hit you like it did from the fire so thats why your depending on it being very good to heat the rads but we are very pleased with it in general.

thats for that brianne..i appreciate the info.

did i see you mention you got the yola further back on this thread?..he's thinking about an insert by still undecided..bit of a price difference between the standalone boiler and insert.

Brianne

Yes got the Yola. We paid 1575 for it and could nt believe Emerald stoves were selling it for 1100. Just checked it on Emerald site now but they have no price given for it at the minute.

albert kidd

Brianne wrote: »

Yes got the Yola. We paid 1575 for it and could nt believe Emerald stoves were selling it for 1100. Just checked it on Emerald site now but they have no price given for it at the minute.

feck sake bud thats a big difference!!

whats the heat like for the yola to the room..is it noticeable?

Brianne

Heat to the room with rad on once it heats up is grand but if you re talking of it without rad (we have nt actually ever turned rad down ) but dont think it would be great-well not in this cold weather anyway. It has a big firebox so it uses a lot of fuel.
Yea that was a huge price difference, quite maddening when I saw it for 1100 Yola are somewhere down in Wexford and I think you can deal directly with them and you d prob get a good deal too. See their facebook page.

albert kidd

cheers brianne..yeah might take a spin up around there 2mora and see..thanks again.

ebyr

Brianne wrote: »

Ebyr as regards fuel usage, we have a 17kw insert boiler stove which is also a Yola and which has a very large firebox. This is what we find, in order to get and keep the heat in the rads coal is the best, we use all smokeless. We also use timber but with timber and coal together it burns away too quickly and you dont get the same heat as coal on its own when it reddens up. We are definitely using quite a lot more coal with the stove than we did with the open fire and back boiler.

Hi Brianne,

Thanks very much for the heads up on the fuel end of business, appreciate it!

Sanchez83 wrote: »

Hi Ebyr,

While i am not an expert a 30kw stove[100k Plus Btus] should do the job for both upstairs and downstairs.

My father purchased a Henley druid 30kw to replace a solid fuel range in January and he loves it.He says it heats up quite fast[approx 20-30mins]and easily heats the 20 or so rads in his house. Ok i am not sure exactly what BTUs his house requires but it sounds similar.

He burns a mixture of coal and wood and would have the stove going for approx 12hrs every day! We were only talking about it the weekend and he reckons he is spending half what he was spending beforehand on fuel.
Ive never burnt Kiln dried wood but from what ive heard it burns quite fast no matter what you burn it in.

He even sticks the kettle and pots of food to simmer on it as its made from steel.
When he was buying it he was told that all the big European manufacturers are making most of their stoves in steel now.

I have a Stanley Erin Cast Iron myself and while its great if i could change to a steel stove in the morning i would.I get home in the evening around 6 and have to wait until about 7.30 for the place to heat up.

Hi Sanchez83,

Thanks very much for your reply. Any idea how much the old man is actually burning over the 12h period. Would be good to get some idea. Also, how much did he pay for it? (if you dont mind my asking:))

To anyone else reading, if you have good knowledge of btu and stove output etc (all the tech stuff basically) I'd really appreciate if you could have a look at my previous post.

Thanks again

ebyr

Coltdearg

Hi all... Advise needed.. I'm looking for a double sided boiler stove multifuel.. Have been looking at boro carrig mor 30kw, but it only gives 4kw (2kw each side) and heats up to 10 single rads... What I am looking for would be a stove with greater output to room and only heats 5 to 6 rads?? Can anyone recommend a stove that fits my needs.. Really hitting a brick wall with this one ...
Thank you 🔥

TomOnBoard

smallwonder wrote: »

What do you mean by a permanently open vent? Should I be leaving the extractor fan on?
I'm using Colombian coal. The installer said that's the best. I'm not sure what anthracite is:o

What is the make and model of your stove?

1st steps:

Don't use extractor fan.. Instead open a room door a crack to let more air into the room..

Fully open the air vents on the stove and open any flue damper.

Buy a bag of Arigna Ecobrite and try it instead of the coal. While excellent in terms of ease of lighting and usually good in terms of heat output, any coal releases huge amounts of smoke and its use is a recipe for filthy maintenance in a glass fronted stove. Your installer should have known better.

Get a 2nd opinion on the quality of the stove itself and how well it was installed.

2nd steps:

Check if the extractor fan can be reversed, ie suck air from outside into the room rather than from the room out.

Ensure the installed chimneys internal diameter is at least as large as the output from the stove.

Leave the stove doors open a crack to allow air to keep smoky deposits off the glass

Third steps:

Replace the internal single wall flue with a double insulated flue.

Add to the height of the external flue.

Fourth steps:

Mmmmmmm :-(

Robbie.G

smallwonder wrote: »

What do you mean by a permanently open vent? Should I be leaving the extractor fan on?
I'm using Colombian coal. The installer said that's the best. I'm not sure what anthracite is:o

A permanently open is is a vent in the room that can't be closed.
The fan can only be used when the stove is lit if there is enough air in the room to allow that.So unless this is tested do use the fan when the stove is lit.
Stoves can't use bituminous coal which is house coal it's to smokey and to high burning I'm only after taking out a Stanley stove because the user was burning high heat polish coal his coal man told him it was ok the coal distributor says not for stoves so my client is down €1500 to replace his stove as it was very badly damaged due to excessive heat