STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

HeidiHeidi

RealJohn wrote: »

Just a quick question and one that has no doubt been answered multiple times before so if someone could point me to a previous answer, I'd greatly appreciate it.

I'd like to get a stove but I'm unsure as to the best way of going about it. Should I go to a fireplace supplier who will install it for me too? Should I buy the stove and hire someone to install it separately? Obviously I'm hoping to do it for the lowest price I can but I'm a complete novice when it comes to this sort of thing.

I was in exactly the same position as you - complete novice, no question whatsoever of self-install. I got two shops (both specialise in fireplaces/stoves) to come out and assess the room/setup and give me quotes. I went with one of those, (they stocked a stove I preferred the look of which was a deciding factor in the end - I am a girl!) - they couldn't have been nicer to deal with, install was about a three-hour job start to finish and no fuss/mess whatsoever.

I have no doubt that someone a bit handy could have done it a lot cheaper - but the hassle-free nature of my dealings with that supplier/installer meant it was worth every penny to me.

Can PM details if you like, not sure if it's the done thing to be advertising merchants on here although I'd happily sing their praises from the rooftop - I'm in Dublin btw.

eastmayo

I got the Stratford eb 16 inset stove fitted last week in my sitting room,each time I open the door to put fire on smoke flows out to the sitting room,I have tried leaving door open and windows open but still no good,and I have an open vent in room,what can I try next

arbf1

Hi East Mayo, I know leaving the damper open when lighting it can help with smoke until it's going well but you probably doing this...my friend had to get a special flu in chimney to stop the draft coming back down and blowing smoke into room. The fire drew a lot better after this. I know my open fire can be smokey at times depending on wind direction and strength.

eastmayo

arbf1 wrote: »

Hi East Mayo, I know leaving the damper open when lighting it can help with smoke until it's going well but you probably doing this...my friend had to get a special flu in chimney to stop the draft coming back down and blowing smoke into room. The fire drew a lot better after this. I know my open fire can be smokey at times depending on wind direction and strength.

I will look into this,the thing is there was always a great pull on the chimney when I had open fire,so will have to see,working great other than that

Sanchez83

Double check that the baffle plate inside the stove is fitted correctly.
Is there a gap to allow the smoke to travel up the chimney?
Otherwise as the other poster said it could be something to do with your chimney.

eastmayo

Sanchez83 wrote: »

Double check that the baffle plate inside the stove is fitted correctly.
Is there a gap to allow the smoke to travel up the chimney?
Otherwise as the other poster said it could be something to do with your chimney.

There seems to be 3 settings on the baffle plate,there seems to be an issue with the baffle plate,there seems to be no way of removing it to clean chimney,builder was looking at it there for an hour and can't remove it,must be some way?

Sanchez83

It might show in the stove manual how to remove it.Its definetly removable.
I would not have great confidence in the fitter if he can't take out a baffle plate....

cmaryr

I am taking out a Villager A Stove after 12 years as it was never plumbed properly and never worked as it should - plenty heat in the room but nothing to the rads or water.
I am looking at installing one of the following stoves bearing in mind that I need a top flue fitting and am stuck for space - really needs to be as narrow as possible. I will need approx. 6kw to the room itself and would hope for approx. 12kw to the rads/water.
1. Stratford EB12HE-G4 Freestanding (Ideal as Spec says it is only 533mm wide / output is
good also)
2. Waterford Stanley Lismore (Width is also ideal but only gives 4.7kw to room)
3. Waterford Stanley Reginald (A little wide but could make it work / output is ideal)

I also have 2-3 rads in the area I need to heat (area requiring 6kw output).
Can anyone please let me know if you have any of these stoves installed - are they working properly and can anyone recommend one stove over another?
I am replacing what is there at the moment as it has never worked properly and need to ensure I am getting value for money when I replace this stove.

eastmayo

Sanchez83 wrote: »

It might show in the stove manual how to remove it.Its definetly removable.
I would not have great confidence in the fitter if he can't take out a baffle plate....

No it dose not show how to remove it,I have every confidence in the fitter,he has fitted a lot of inset stoves,he has never seen this before,looks like a fault

Sanchez83

A baffle plate is made separately from the stove.It is inserted after the body of the stove is manufactured.Therefore it was put in so can be taken out.They can be awkward at times to figure out but there's a knack in doing it if it doesn't show in the manual.Contact the retailer and if they don't know contact Stratford directly.

eastmayo

Sanchez83 wrote: »

A baffle plate is made separately from the stove.It is inserted after the body of the stove is manufactured.Therefore it was put in so can be taken out.They can be awkward at times to figure out but there's a knack in doing it if it doesn't show in the manual.Contact the retailer and if they don't know contact Stratford directly.

Was at the retailer today,was able to take baffle plate of the stove in shop today no bother so defo fault with this 1,they comeing out tomorrow to have a look

Villan11

Hi all,

Forgive me if this is a stupid question or if it's been covered already. Moved house recently and in the process of redecorating the front room. I've taken out the old hideous fire place/hearth/fire brick. Basically I've stripped everything out.

I want to put some sort of insert into the opening, preferably a multifuel stove, but could go gas or electric if I had to.

My only thing is that the room is small and I want to keep everything as minimal as possible so I am hoping to have something like a floating insert and no surround or hearth or mantle. I've attached an image of something like what I would like, but mine would be much smaller.

Is this possible with a multifuel stove?

Sarah3

Hi

I am looking for a recommendation for a room heater stove of approx. 12kw to heat a large open plan kitchen and living room.

Ideally it should have a decent sized firebox and opening for large timber logs.

Thanks.

Bebo stunnah

I'm getting a Cara plus insert stove fitted next week and was wondering would it be necessary for me to have to install a vent specifically for it? I've had 2 different suggestions that I should and shouldn't get it done. I was under the opinion, after reading the installation manual, that I should.

The house is about 45 years old so it's far from being airtight and the room the stove is going in has a suspended timber floor, which I've taken up for access for plumbing (which is proving to be a whole other problem in itself) so if needs be, I'd prefer to get it done while it's up. I'm looking to insulate the floor (with a yet to be determined substance) and once completed access will be a nightmare if retro-retrofitting. Also I don't want to put the vent at the wall or, the most Irish bit advice I got so far; 'open the window if you need more air', as I don't want to have draughts across the whole room.

Robbie.G

Bebo stunnah wrote: »

I'm getting a Cara plus insert stove fitted next week and was wondering would it be necessary for me to have to install a vent specifically for it? I've had 2 different suggestions that I should and shouldn't get it done. I was under the opinion, after reading the installation manual, that I should.

The house is about 45 years old so it's far from being airtight and the room the stove is going in has a suspended timber floor, which I've taken up for access for plumbing (which is proving to be a whole other problem in itself) so if needs be, I'd prefer to get it done while it's up. I'm looking to insulate the floor (with a yet to be determined substance) and once completed access will be a nightmare if retro-retrofitting. Also I don't want to put the vent at the wall or, the most Irish bit advice I got so far; 'open the window if you need more air', as I don't want to have draughts across the whole room.

The stove must have a permanently open vent.
Also a carbon monoxide alarm must be
Fitted

Wearb

+1 RibbieG

It has to be a permanent non closeable vent. To avoid too much draughts keep it close to the stove, or at least try to not have it in a place where the air from it is passing around the people sitting in the room.

Green farmer

Just a question on stove chimneys. Does the amount of bends on a chimney make any difference to draw on flue. Was looking to install a stove but will have to go out through an external wall with a stainless steel chimney and up side of house. Will have to add another bend to clear eves of house . therefore 2 bends with possible third if I go out back of stove as opposed to top plate of stove ?
Thanks in advance .

Robbie.G

Green farmer wrote: »

Just a question on stove chimneys. Does the amount of bends on a chimney make any difference to draw on flue. Was looking to install a stove but will have to go out through an external wall with a stainless steel chimney and up side of house. Will have to add another bend to clear eves of house . therefore 2 bends with possible third if I go out back of stove as opposed to top plate of stove ?
Thanks in advance .

Yes the more bends the more restriction in the flue.
You can have up to 4 bends but no larger that 45 degree

irishproduce

I posted this elsewhere but probably the wrong thread.

I am going to see some stove stores tomorrow.
What will be required to have stove up and running? It is an insert we have to use as space is not there to put out on the floor.
The house is 1972 build - suspended timber floors - no vents in the walls (although i'm thinking of getting them done soon)
Is it a stove and flue line kit all that I need? Or is there other equipment required?
I am thinking to buy the stove locally (Haven't decided which stove to buy but will go with the recommendation of one of the local stores) and then give some freelance guy the work to put it in to share the work around.
I would appreciate the advice. I don't want to go into a stove centre with a fist full of money and be upsold crap and junk I could avoid - obviously where possible. At the same time, I do not want to avoid getting all the right things to ensure a hassle free winter.
thanks - irish

irishproduce

Thank you Sanchez. I will do that so. You make a lot of sense actually when I consider after sales.
Is there a big spread in terms of what I'd expect to pay for the different stoves? None of the sites seem to advertise the prices and we've never had a stove...only just bought our first home. Thanks

Sanchez83

Prices vary a bit on the stoves but it's the associated costs like piping etc that are the real unknowns until the fitter does an assessment.
The size of the stove you need will also dictate price.
6kw would be around the norm so you are talking anything from e800-1100 for the stove alone.
If you let me know what county you are in I may be able to point you in the right direction.

irishproduce

I'm in Limerick.

I was going to go with 4kw to be honest, the room is quite small and oil heaters all over the house.
I am going to ryans and livingstone tomorrow, appreciate any pointers, thanks.

guinness queen

After much deliberation and driving myself crazy a few years ago, I finally purchased a Nestor Martin H 30 (I think)abt 7\Kw very expensive, but I was fortunate to get one that had been on display for 2 years and so got it for 50% of the actual price. I really hated it at first, I had a book full of very explicit instructions, and half way through I usually lit it my way, which did not really work to full capacity. Then after a year or so of frustration, I decided on eday to follow the instructions to the letter and is now very successful. The wood must be absolutely dry, that was also a mistake of mine. When I burn anthricite coal I can hardly stay in the room. Even in very cold weather half a small bucket will do for the evening and night.
I have never managed to keep it in at night with the coal, but there still will be a spark in the morning if using wood. Its terribly easy to start off then in the morning, a few minutes and all systems go. It does not heat the water. It is a beautiful piece, very well crafted and made in Belgium.
however, I am not sure that is worth the full price approx Eu 1800.

Sanchez83

Nestor Martin have closed down.
You got ripped off!

Sanchez83

Irishproduce-
2 shops that know their stuff to be fair.

reni10

I am looking to get an insert stove into my house, something like the Henley Apollo and I had a person come to the house to have a look for me to see if it would be suitable and they said the fire surround has no gaps to expand or something in it so I could NOT install an insert stove!

The fireplace, surround and mantel piece are all solid and from the same material which is maybe marble?

There is a gas fire in there at the moment and it is useless so I wanted to get a tidy non boiler 5KW insert stove in its place.

Anyone know of any options to proceed with the insert stove without having to rip out the whole fireplace and surround basically?

irishproduce

Thanks Sanchez, I went to ryans today, had a good look, mr ryan himself is supposed to come out for an inspection this week coming.
Then to livingstone but never got to speak to anyone as the one sales rep was tied up so I left and went to Pa Carey (heard of him?) small place out the county.
I was impressed by all accounts.
Went through some options with Pa, and whittled it down to a henley insert (5kw or 6kw, I can't recall) and priced at €650 or a boru standalone 4kw (didn't catch make) which would go half into the hearth but nicely come out onto the front of fire area and this was about €550 if I recall correctly.
They don't include fitting which he described would go one of two ways. One is the metal joints that go off the back of stove up to existing chimney or second (more expensive) would need the 10 metre metal flue up the chimney, packed with some material etc for insulation. These options depended on the existing chimney in our 1972 house
Mind boggling but he is also going to come to house this week to investigate what is required.
I told both that the budget was about €1000 all in but that I wasn't up for avoiding bad news if I needed that flue line up the chimney so lets get it done right.

Any thoughts on that?

Sanchez83

Yep Pa is a good guy too.
He does great deals for packages on the 2 stoves you mentioned and knows his stuff.
Ryan's are excellent too though.
I'd imagine with your house being 1972 you will need your chimney lined especially with the inserts as they give off savage heat.
4kw may not be big enough for you so price Borus larger version 5/6 kW.

Sanchez83

Could you post a picture Reni 10?

irishproduce

Thanks Sanchez!

reni10

Here are a couple of pics of the Fireplace I am talking about...

Please let me know if an insert stove or cassette or whatever could be put into this?

Sanchez83

Hi Reni,

You have 3 sections to your fireplace-
The Surround
The Hearth(The base)
The Insert(the panel the stove fits into)

Everything is made from granite.
The problem is the hearth and insert.
These are designed for a gas fire as they are.

What your fitter is trying to say is that the heat from the stove might crack your hearth and insert as it is not heat jointed.They will expand from the heat and possibly crack.

You would be taking a chance otherwise which wouldn't be advised.
You will have to have your hearth and insert heat jointed.

reni10

Thanks for the reply Sanchez, do you know how I could get the hearth and insert Heat Jointed and approx how much would it cost?

Sanchez83

You would have to take the fireplace down and hope the hearth and insert come out in one piece.
Most fireplace shops would be able to heat joint them for you.
Cost is hard to say,I'd say a minimum of e200-e300.
You would buy them new already heat jointed for around e300-e350.
Does the shop you are buying the stove in do fireplaces?

reni10

The shop only seems to sell Stoves so not sure about fireplaces...

Would you get a new granite one that looks the same as the one in there for about e300 do you reckon that has the expansion joints in it?

Sanchez83

I'd say you should get a new heat jointed hearth and insert for around e300-e350.
Where abouts are you and I might be able to point you in the right direction.

Entonces

ive been reading through the excellent posts on here and im lookin for some help also
i am at my wits end with researching stoves i had decided on a carraig mor 20 kw but warned off it by a plumber today

i am looking for a stove to heat 14 rads and an open plan kitchen/dining/sun room area of 50 sq metres
there is a double rad at one end of the room(sitting room) and a single rad at the other (sun room)

i have oil central heating which i dont mind using to do some of the heating work in the house
im basically trying to harness some of the free heat from burning my free timber supply combined with some stove fuel, and heat the living area at the same time

my research had led me to the carraig mor 20kw but today ive been reliably informed that the heat output to room is poor from this model

so im wondering can anyone advise me where to go now. i want the living space to be warm but i dont want to have to constantly pump fuel into the stove and lose the heat to the rads. can anyone recommend a boiler stove with a better output to room thats not over 20kw total output

any other advise greatly appreciated?

guinness queen

Sanchez83 wrote: »

Nestor Martin have closed down.
You got ripped off!

Hi Sanchez, how do you make out that I got ripped off. this will be my third winter to use this stove, and after initial teething problems, my own fault, it is a great stove (thus far). the price I paid for it was half the price of a new one. It was only used as a display model for less than 2 years.
I am wondering however about getting spare parts if and when I need them. But their english distributors and their Irish ones are very good and most helpful.
So perhaps there will be spare parts around for some time to come. Thanks for the warning.

Sanchez83

Hi Entonces,

The Carrig Mor is 4kw to the room which would probably be a little low for that size of an area.
Did the plumber do BTU calculations?
Are you counting your rads as singles?

I would estimate you would need 16kw to the water and 6kw to the room.
That will probably mean you would have to go with a 25kw as I don't think there are many 22kws on the market .

Sanchez83

My apologies Guiness queen,I read your post wrong.
I tought you said you had only just purchased it.
So I tought the shop were conning you by getting rid of a discontinued brand.
They are closed down but I have no idea about spares.
I'm sure some company will start manufacturing the spares as there are 100s of thousands of homes around the world with those stoves.

reni10

I am in the Waterford area Sanchez.

Do you think there are any other options for the fireplace I have that would look alright like a free standing oisin stove or something like that pushed right back into the fireplace?

Would you need the expansion gaps for something like that too?

Rackle

Hi
Does anyone have any experience of the Boru Carraig Mor 20KW boiler stove?
We have a 3 bed semi, with existing oil CH, also need to heat 11 rads.. Is it efficient and reliable?

Sarah3

Sarah3 wrote: »

Hi

I am looking for a recommendation for a room heater stove of approx. 10 - 12kw to heat a large open plan kitchen and living room.

Ideally it should have a decent sized firebox and opening for large timber logs.

Thanks.

Anyone????

Green farmer

Sarah3 wrote: »

Anyone????

If you can afford it, charnwood

Entonces

Sanchez83 wrote: »

Hi Entonces,

The Carrig Mor is 4kw to the room which would probably be a little low for that size of an area.
Did the plumber do BTU calculations?
Are you counting your rads as singles?

I would estimate you would need 16kw to the water and 6kw to the room.
That will probably mean you would have to go with a 25kw as I don't think there are many 22kws on the market .

thanks sanchez i was hoping you would reply

on line calculator tells me 22,475 BTU/hour required for the room
all rads accounted for at 15 (forgot one last time)

would 4 kw be enough with a double rad at one side of the room and a single rad at other side? i really dont want the room to be cold after doing so much work on it. however i also dont want to be burning large amounts of fuel to heat the room and losing this heat to the water heating the rest of the house.
any suggestions welcome ?

Moggaman

Hi. Was wondering does anyone have a review on Dimplex Westcott 12kw solid fuel stove. Are they manufactured in ire/ uk... Are they a solid stove?
Am thinking about buying .

martin6651

Any one heard of Mazona Stoves. I'm looking at the Cairo version so would like any comments of same before I commit to purchase.

therealmccoy

Hi Entonces,

THe Boru will only give around 4kw to the room and that's when you've got the stove really going. You'd be better off going for the Inis Meain MK2 boiler stove. Will heat up to 16 rads and give around 8kw to the room.
If heat the the room is your main concern, then the Inis one is your best bet.Check them at www(dot)InisStoves(dot)ie (Don't mix them up with Irish Isle Stoves).

Entonces wrote: »

ive been reading through the excellent posts on here and im lookin for some help also
i am at my wits end with researching stoves i had decided on a carraig mor 20 kw but warned off it by a plumber today

i am looking for a stove to heat 14 rads and an open plan kitchen/dining/sun room area of 50 sq metres
there is a double rad at one end of the room(sitting room) and a single rad at the other (sun room)

i have oil central heating which i dont mind using to do some of the heating work in the house
im basically trying to harness some of the free heat from burning my free timber supply combined with some stove fuel, and heat the living area at the same time

my research had led me to the carraig mor 20kw but today ive been reliably informed that the heat output to room is poor from this model

so im wondering can anyone advise me where to go now. i want the living space to be warm but i dont want to have to constantly pump fuel into the stove and lose the heat to the rads. can anyone recommend a boiler stove with a better output to room thats not over 20kw total output

any other advise greatly appreciated?

therealmccoy

For 11 Rads you'd be fine with the Boru 20kw, (assuming 11 rads are 4ft singles). Will give 4kw to the room so if room its going into is around 12x12 or therabouts you'd be ok.

Rackle wrote: »

Hi
Does anyone have any experience of the Boru Carraig Mor 20KW boiler stove?
We have a 3 bed semi, with existing oil CH, also need to heat 11 rads.. Is it efficient and reliable?

therealmccoy

Hi Sarah.

I'd recommend the Henley Druid 12kw or the Dimplex Westcott 12. Both give 12kw, and are reasonably priced around the 700-800 mark.

Both freestanding with flue exits on top/rear.

Druid is Steel built and one door.
Westcott is Cast built and has two doors.

IMO I like the Druid a little better but thats just my opinion.

Sarah3 wrote: »

Anyone????