STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

Briany3

high just got a new inset stove everything going great,well the fire place Brest gets a bit hot, hot enough to boil water on. Throw water at it and it evaporates. Is this common.
Briany

gomamochi1

therealmccoy wrote: »

Both are fantastic stoves, and will work a charm on the Radiators and Water. But because it is a large open plan space, the Inis has the advantage of giving much better heat to the room than the Stratford.
Inis gets my vote. Where are you based, I might be able to recommend someone good in your area?

Based in Louth thanks if you have any suggestions where to get either one. There is nearly 1 grand in the difference!
Thanks

cranefly

Briany3 wrote: »

high just got a new inset stove everything going great,well the fire place Brest gets a bit hot, hot enough to boil water on. Throw water at it and it evaporates. Is this common.
Briany

Sounds to me their is something seriously wrong if it is as hot as you say it is,
it is common for a chimney breast to get warm even a small bit hot, but not hot enough to boil water.
Is their a baffle plate fitted to the stove, it sounds like all your stoves heat is going up the chimney. if it is possible do not light any more fires in your stove until you get someone to look at it, try calling back the installer to take a look, the baffle plate is at the top of the firebox inside the stove, it normally can come out so you can clean the chimney.

ballyharpat

I have a baby Gabriel stove, the secondary air opening is on the top. I bought the stove 2 weeks ago-used. I.ve sealed it up with new rope on the door and the glass, which has improved performance.
The main problem is I cannot close the secondary air on the top of it, it has a handle that slides side to side, but it only slides halfway, it's okay to burn wood, but for burning coal, it wastes an awful lot as it just burns with a high flame all the time..... ANy help would be appreciated, thanks!!

moonshadow

Hi ballyharpat, The secondary opening on that is only designed to close halfway. The manual is readily available online.

ballyharpat

moonshadow wrote: »

Hi ballyharpat, The secondary opening on that is only designed to close halfway. The manual is readily available online.

Thanks Moonshadow, I have a firebird insert stove with a boiler in the kitchen, it's great, I have a stanley oisin in my other house and that gives great heat, gonna try and seal the joints with some fireplace cement and see if that does anything to improve performance, seems to throw an awful lot of heat up the chimney and very hard to regulate.....

Stiffs

I fitted an Insert stove recently 6.5kw

The granite hearth face is getting hot. The mantle piece that under the mantle shelf is getting warm. I fitted a stove in the past and have experience of fire boarding, stone work etc. I was under the impression a insert was spec'd to fit in a standard fire opening without major modification. But i also understand that the top of the stove gives out mass heat.

My question is whats the best course of action to reduce this from getting so hot?

Fire board the back of the hearth internally or fire board directly onto the stove itself?

The stove firebox flue opening is sealed to the chimney clay flue by flexi pipe. So the heat that comes off the stove behind the face of stove has nowhere to go but into the shelf area.

If i fit the fire board over the stove will this push the heat out the front of the stove?


My other question is why are the clearances for free standing stoves different to inserts that fit snug into an existing fire place?

And lastly, Ive had mixed advice on the whether to insulate the shelf area - as in pack around the flue to the wall to up the clay flue open area with rock wool throwing the heat out the front of the stove rather than getting trapped in the shelf area.

Hope this makes sense?

TTTT

ballyharpat wrote: »

I have a baby Gabriel stove, the secondary air opening is on the top. I bought the stove 2 weeks ago-used. I.ve sealed it up with new rope on the door and the glass, which has improved performance.
The main problem is I cannot close the secondary air on the top of it, it has a handle that slides side to side, but it only slides halfway, it's okay to burn wood, but for burning coal, it wastes an awful lot as it just burns with a high flame all the time..... ANy help would be appreciated, thanks!!

I have a Baby Gabriel and the airwash closes fully. Maybe you have the British Smoke Exempt version that has a stop on the airwash to insure complete combustion and reduce smoke emissions.

You can take off the airwash plate by removing the baffle and taking out the 2 screws. behind it there are 2 more screws holding spring brackets that hold the sliding plate for the airwash. maybe it can be replaced with a normal one?

if you contact the importers - The Stove Yard in Down ( +44 (0)2891 814443) they should be able to advise.

cocoman

Stiffs wrote: »

I fitted an Insert stove recently 6.5kw

The granite hearth face is getting hot. The mantle piece that under the mantle shelf is getting warm. I fitted a stove in the past and have experience of fire boarding, stone work etc. I was under the impression a insert was spec'd to fit in a standard fire opening without major modification. But i also understand that the top of the stove gives out mass heat.

My question is whats the best course of action to reduce this from getting so hot?

Fire board the back of the hearth internally or fire board directly onto the stove itself?

The stove firebox flue opening is sealed to the chimney clay flue by flexi pipe. So the heat that comes off the stove behind the face of stove has nowhere to go but into the shelf area.

If i fit the fire board over the stove will this push the heat out the front of the stove?


My other question is why are the clearances for free standing stoves different to inserts that fit snug into an existing fire place?

And lastly, Ive had mixed advice on the whether to insulate the shelf area - as in pack around the flue to the wall to up the clay flue open area with rock wool throwing the heat out the front of the stove rather than getting trapped in the shelf area.

Hope this makes sense?

If its an insert that just slots into the existing opening without breaking out the fireback then there is a ceramic blanket (its like cotton wool) that you can get to wrap around the stove before you slot the stove into position.

The idea is that it prevents heat from transferring to the fireback in the fireplace and out into the room instead. I think firewool will do the same thing but the other stuff is better (and dearer!).

I'm not sure about the clearences but maybe its because the insert works on convection where the heat is blown away from the stove.

mad dad

hi,

I have recently installed a Charnwood free standing stove (no back boiler, just room heater). The Stove is connected to a 6inch flexi flue liner in an existing chimney, which is back filled with vermiculite. My problem is I'm unable to control the rate of burn. I'm satisfied the door seal is good- I have done the paper test on it and it's tight. There is a 4 inch external air connection to the rear of the stove and everything appears connected correctly and in accordance with manufacturers guidelines. There is a single air control lever at the bottom of the stove - but it has little effect on the rate of burn on the fire whether it's in or out!

I have another Charnwood stove in the house which works great and I am very happy with and as a result I know how controllable these things should be.

Anyone any ideas or pointers?????

Cheers

chris_ie

Hi, currently trying to sort our house out for heat. At the minute it's not holding the heat too well. We have an open fire in the sitting room (I know quite a lot of heat gets lost there) and we have a stove (w/ back boiler) in the living room. We noticed at one point that behind the stove was wet, turned out this was due to rain water coming down the chimney. On checking, the flue goes into the chimney but there are small gaps around the flue.

The stove doesnt heat the room that well, at times you'd have to stand right in front of it or open the door to let heat out. But going by others on here the heat is that warm they have to open doors!

Also considering maybe an inset stove for the sitting room now. Love the open fire effect but some of the inset stoves I've seen look like they could still sort of do that anyways.

Galego

A question for those who own a stove without back boiler fitted in the living room. Do you have a trv or close manually the living room radiator when heating the rest of the house with the central heating?

onefortynine

has anyone ever bought from "Valuestoves" in Clare? they seem to do their own brand and cheaply too. would like to hear opinions on the quality. I have a small-ish front room and I won't be going for the boiler type so a 4kw multifuel should do nicely.

charlie_says

Yes I've had similar performance problems with my Stratford EB16i.

After spending close to e2500 on it including the fitting I'm not massively impressed with it. I don't think it's the stove though as they have an excellent reputation and others have great experience with it. I think it's either an installation or chimney problem. New pump was installed to the existing system and seems decent. The stove is the sole entrance to a 3 storey chimney on the ground floor.


My problems are:

Heating the 8 (most not very large) radiators is a what I would describe as adequate at best.

Bugger all heat to the room. It's supposed to be rated between 1-5kW to the room but it puts out very little even after being on for hours with a fairly raging fire.

Uses up too much fuel. I burn kiln dried ash (occasionally good smoke giving coal) and it tears through the logs only to provide the the OK heat to rads and bugger all to the room. I have to have all the controls up to the max to get this little heat, so it burns everything quickly. If I turn the controls down the fuel does last a good long time but delivers poor heat.

Also unless you open the door very carefully (leave it ajar for a minute or so before I gingerly open it) to load fuel a good wiff of smoke will escape into the room.

Sigh....

I think I either have a down draught or an up draught problem. I would love to be able to find a definitive way to test this. Trying to put cowls on the chimney is not a cheap solution and I'm uncertain of it's effectiveness. I get quite loud wind noise (certainly louder than the open fire) when there is a bit of a gust outside. Also should I try to refit my cast iron door due to the expansion of the unit after the first few fires and the seal being not quite snug?

Any heating guys know where or what I could do to diagnose the problem? There seems to be a multitude of things that can go wrong with these things but when they work they are awesome. Also everyone seems to have different opinions - are chimneys very unique in their characteristics? Arrgh!

Many thanks....

Dtp1979

onefortynine wrote: »

has anyone ever bought from "Valuestoves" in Clare? they seem to do their own brand and cheaply too. would like to hear opinions on the quality. I have a small-ish front room and I won't be going for the boiler type so a 4kw multifuel should do nicely.

Generally anything with the word value before it is utter crap. Stoves being no different. Don't buy these cheap stoves. You get what you pay for

gunners111

stratford eb 16i stove stove poor performance

there does seem to be a lot of the heat going up the chimney, you can hear it is quite loud even when there is little wind outside if you open damper fully burns loads of fuel for little heat, my stratford replaced a Waterford erin free standing stove which was much more economical to run and gave out way more heat.

I wonder if changing the cowl will help

any plumbers got any ideas could it be it takes so long to heat the rads and water it is starving the room heat ,room is only 13ft x 12ft

chris_ie

gunners111 wrote: »

stratford eb 16i stove stove poor performance

there does seem to be a lot of the heat going up the chimney, you can hear it is quite loud even when there is little wind outside if you open damper fully burns loads of fuel for little heat, my stratford replaced a Waterford erin free standing stove which was much more economical to run and gave out way more heat.

I wonder if changing the cowl will help

any plumbers got any ideas could it be it takes so long to heat the rads and water it is starving the room heat ,room is only 13ft x 12ft

Currenty have a Stanley Erin and struggling to get decent heat in the room.

charlie_says

Another question for people with plumbing knowledge.

With my boiler stove, it heats the domestic hot water as well as rads. Is it possible to disconnect it from the domestic hot water and only heat the rads easily? I can post pics of my tank and piping if necessary.

The domestic hot water heats up and is very hot but I would appreciate the fire heat going to the rads more as really there isn't much showering going on in the evening when the fire is on and the rads don't get very warm.

Dtp1979

charlie_says wrote: »

Another question for people with plumbing knowledge.

With my boiler stove, it heats the domestic hot water as well as rads. Is it possible to disconnect it from the domestic hot water and only heat the rads easily? I can post pics of my tank and piping if necessary.

The domestic hot water heats up and is very hot but I would appreciate the fire heat going to the rads more as really there isn't much showering going on in the evening when the fire is on and the rads don't get very warm.

No I'm afraid

RJF

Hi Dtp1979, what are your reasons for saying no?

charlie_says

Thanks for the reply.

Do you mean it can't be done at all or easily, I thought maybe turning off a valve between the stove hot water and the tank? I assume that the rad water system is seperate to the tank? I really don't know.

I'd be prepared to spend if the stove could actually heat the rads better. Hot water usage here is only in the mornings and I can use the electric hot water heat on the timer as normal as I don't have a fire lit early.

Dtp1979

Valves are not permitted anywhere between the stove and the cylinder. There must be 1" pipe joining one to the other. If a valve was installed it would stop the gravity curcuit that is critical to the correct and SAFE operation of the stove

Markcheese

With your old stove was there any sort of flue baffle /damper that controlled the draw up the chimney ? If the draw is very strong it should be possible to add a control to your flue -
Also did you match the stove boiler to your houses requirements ?
It's all grand for a supplier to say "it'll do 10 rads" or something but big ones ? , small small rads ? -well insulated rooms ? Draughty ones that'll never heat -

charlie_says

Markcheese wrote: »

With your old stove was there any sort of flue baffle /damper that controlled the draw up the chimney ? If the draw is very strong it should be possible to add a control to your flue -
Also did you match the stove boiler to your houses requirements ?
It's all grand for a supplier to say "it'll do 10 rads" or something but big ones ? , small small rads ? -well insulated rooms ? Draughty ones that'll never heat -

Yeah got an good crowd who did buy and fit, spec done properly. I think it's a chimney draught problem but not certain.

dosebier

Hi All,

Want to put a stand alone small wood stove in a new sunroom, the sun room will be a normal one storey height (not flat roof).

My question is about the flue, how high does it need to be over the roof? the stove will be located in the end corner or sunroom (so not directly beside the house).
is there any good practice in doing this that I need to be aware of?

Thnks

Calahonda52

dosebier wrote: »

Hi All,

Want to put a stand alone small wood stove in a new sunroom, the sun room will be a normal one storey height (not flat roof).

My question is about the flue, how high does it need to be over the roof? the stove will be located in the end corner or sunroom (so not directly beside the house).
is there any good practice in doing this that I need to be aware of?

Thnks

http://www.environ.ie/en/Publications/DevelopmentandHousing/BuildingStandards/FileDownLoad,37240,en.pdf
will get you there

There are two main points, the recommended flue height in its own right, and then height above the main roof of house, not the sun room.

As the geometry is not clear, you need to tell us a bit more.

gunners111

chris_ie wrote: »

Currenty have a Stanley Erin and struggling to get decent heat in the room.

the Stanley erin was supposed to be rated the same KW to water as the stratford eb 16i, but stratford was rated 1-5kw to room where as the Stanley was only rated 3kw
I found the Stanley much better to heat room, I am beginning to think I may need a different cowl, had the chimney lined when I changed stoves wonder if this is the reason for such poor performance
any thought appreciated

dosebier

There are two main points, the recommended flue height in its own right, and then height above the main roof of house, not the sun room.

As the geometry is not clear, you need to tell us a bit more.

Thanks for the info, there is a lot of reading in that link. So are you saying that a small flue on a one storey extension isnt possible? and it would have to rise to the height of the normal house roof?
Its a small 4x3M sunroom (3.5M roof high) that I'd like the stove in, joined to the back of the house.and had wanted the stove set in the far corner of sunroom (part not joined to house) in between a patio door and large window for max heat effect.

Thanks

HeidiHeidi

dosebier wrote: »

Thanks for the info, there is a lot of reading in that link. So are you saying that a small flue on a one storey extension isnt possible? and it would have to rise to the height of the normal house roof?
Its a small 4x3M sunroom (3.5M roof high) that I'd like the stove in, joined to the back of the house.and had wanted the stove set in the far corner of sunroom (part not joined to house) in between a patio door and large window for max heat effect.

Thanks

What happens when the wind/breeze is blowing from the top of your flue towards the back of the house? You'll wind up smoked out of it, or your neighbours will. There was another thread about this a while back.

I have no idea of regulations, but this would be one good reason why the flue should rise above the overall height of the house.

Calahonda52

As in the title!
Its a grey black soft rope

chris_ie

Well after a bit of investigation on my issue I feel a bit stupid

We have the Stanley Erin, it was in the house when we bought it. We were told it heated the downstairs radiators, but in truth thats about all it manages. Its not seperate or anything. So it struggles trying to heat all the radiators in the house (21!) instead of just downstairs, so I'm guessing thats why we might not get much heat into the room also?

So, 21 radiators, quite a lot, but they are of various sizes, some single, some double, some narrow etc.. Its a two storey house with the attic converted. I did some measurements and used a formula I found online to get a rough idea of the BTU for all of the radiators, worked out around 81,000 BTU. Given that the Erin does 45,0000 if I recall correctly, its a bit of a problem! Not sure why the previous owners chose that stove....

Radiators were also supposed to be zoned, with there being switches for upstairs and downstairs but dont seem to have much effect.

So my next question. Do many on here have any experiences with the 25-30kW stoves? I've seen the Stratford Eco Boiler 25kW which says max of 85,350 BTU. Also seen some Boru, Henley and Yola. Not certain on the brands to be honest but I did see someone somewhere mention the Stratford as the "rolls royce" of stoves :P

Calahonda52

My guess is that they went for the smaller option because
1. if you put a 25-30 kWh stove in the room, especially the older ones maybe 10 would go into the room so it would be bermuda shorts time because if u want the rads heated the room will be getting the 10 whether u like it or not
2. if u want to be getting 30 kWh out, you will need your own coal mine.
Its a lot of fuel, a lot of ash and a lot of work

chris_ie

Calahonda52 wrote: »

My guess is that they went for the smaller option because
1. if you put a 25-30 kWh stove in the room, especially the older ones maybe 10 would go into the room so it would be bermuda shorts time because if u want the rads heated the room will be getting the 10 whether u like it or not
2. if u want to be getting 30 kWh out, you will need your own coal mine.
Its a lot of fuel, a lot of ash and a lot of work

So people with larger houses don't use stoves?

I've seen the Stratford 25kW mentioned as :
Heat Output : 25kW / 85350 BTU
Heat Output to room : 3.5 - 12kW to room
Heat Output to water : 21 - 25kW / 71694 - 85350 BTU/Hr

Calahonda52

sticking with the math

I've seen the Stratford 25kW mentioned as :
Heat Output : 25kW / 85350 BTU
Heat Output to room : 3.5 - 12kW to room
Heat Output to water : 21 - 25kW / 71694 - 85350 BTU/Hr

Not a data presentation I am familiar with as this suggests that the 25 in the name is just the water circuit heat output which is unusual but perhaps is correct.

Assuming it is correct, if u want 25 for rads then the room is gone to have 12 which is a lot of heat.
Whats the heat requirement of the room where the stove is located. Say it is 8, then the 4 is wasted. End of.

chris_ie

Calahonda52 wrote: »

sticking with the math

I've seen the Stratford 25kW mentioned as :
Heat Output : 25kW / 85350 BTU
Heat Output to room : 3.5 - 12kW to room
Heat Output to water : 21 - 25kW / 71694 - 85350 BTU/Hr

Not a data presentation I am familiar with as this suggests that the 25 in the name is just the water circuit heat output which is unusual but perhaps is correct.

Assuming it is correct, if u want 25 for rads then the room is gone to have 12 which is a lot of heat.
Whats the heat requirement of the room where the stove is located. Say it is 8, then the 4 is wasted. End of.

Yeah I'll admit, the data doesnt seem to match up. I was thinking 25kw would be split, so 25kw minus whatever is going to the water goes to the room. I thought the majority of the heat would go to heating the water then once that hit a certain temp the heat would begin increasing to the room?

Calahonda52

chris_ie wrote: »

Yeah I'll admit, the data doesnt seem to match up. I was thinking 25kw would be split, so 25kw minus whatever is going to the water goes to the room. I thought the majority of the heat would go to heating the water then once that hit a certain temp the heat would begin increasing to the room?

Some have a 1/3 room 2/3 water spit but they usually are rectangular with a deep firebox around the boiler: need a navy shovel to stoke back that far!!

There are no controls like u mention because safety is paramount, if the power to circulation pump dies with stove at full blast with a few bags of polish coal on board, your heat sink better be up to it or else have a backup power supply.:)

chris_ie

Calahonda52 wrote: »

Some have a 1/3 room 2/3 water spit but they usually are rectangular with a deep firebox around the boiler: need a navy shovel to stoke back that far!!

There are no controls like u mention because safety is paramount, if the power to circulation pump dies with stove at full blast with a few bags of polish coal on board, your heat sink better be up to it or else have a backup power supply.:)

Ha! Yeah, I'm new to the workings of stoves. Initially thought, great, throw in a bitta coal and it'll magically heat the house More I look into it the more there is to it! So what way do the likes of the Stanleys and Stratfords work? What dictates what heat goes to the room and what to the water?

gofasterdad

dosebier wrote: »

Thanks for the info, there is a lot of reading in that link. So are you saying that a small flue on a one storey extension isnt possible? and it would have to rise to the height of the normal house roof?
Its a small 4x3M sunroom (3.5M roof high) that I'd like the stove in, joined to the back of the house.and had wanted the stove set in the far corner of sunroom (part not joined to house) in between a patio door and large window for max heat effect.

Thanks

Hi Dosebier, I had a very similar issue to yourself last year. (see post http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=92216803 with full details).

in short, we had to bring the flue back to the main body of the house and bring it up the full height of the house, it was not cheap, but it works very well. At one stage, I had nearly given up on the idea of a stove out there, but I am delighted we pushed ahead with it. Even these nights with the crazy cold weather and wind and hail and snow, it's lovely to light the stove and let the rain lash against the windows. Without the stove it would not be anywhere near as inviting.

you may need to consider relocating the stove closer to the main body of the house for it to work though. The flue is less of an eyesore if it is running up the side of the house rather than standing out on its own and being visible from the bedroom windows.

positivenote

advice on replacing gas fireplace with a stove guys. Basically looking at the potential cost of getting and installing a stove into where our current gas fire is housed (in a fireplace with a chimney). The room is a living room approx 16ft x 25ft in size with a bay window. Im looking for advice on which heather to look at getting, its potential cost including installation and whether its a worthwhile switch. Not looking for a boiler option at all, moreso just a stove.
Thanks in advance

SoapFan27

Hi, can anyone point me in the direction of a moisture thermometer for wood fuel that works well for you and didn't cost the earth?

k123456

SoapFan27 wrote: »

Hi, can anyone point me in the direction of a moisture thermometer for wood fuel that works well for you and didn't cost the earth?

Plenty on ebay, about 15 euro, works well

SoapFan27

k123456 wrote: »

Plenty on ebay, about 15 euro, works well

Thanks, do you know name or brand?

Had a quick look and there's one for just under €12 but postage is €16!

http://www.ebay.ie/itm/4-Pin-PRO-Digital-Moisture-Damp-Meter-Detector-Tester-Plaster-Timber-Wood-Sensor-/251865801963?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3aa45f24eb

k123456

SoapFan27 wrote: »

Thanks, do you know name or brand?

Had a quick look and there's one for just under €12 but postage is €16!

http://www.ebay.ie/itm/4-Pin-PRO-Digital-Moisture-Damp-Meter-Detector-Tester-Plaster-Timber-Wood-Sensor-/251865801963?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3aa45f24eb

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/sis.html?_kw=%23QZO+4-Pin+Moisture+Meter+Wood+Timber+Damp+Humidity+Tester+Detector&_id=141303422304

or

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QZO-4-Pin-Moisture-Meter-Wood-Timber-Damp-Humidity-Tester-Detector-/141303422304?hash=item20e6571d60#shpCntId

SoapFan27

k123456 wrote: »

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/sis.html?_kw=%23QZO+4-Pin+Moisture+Meter+Wood+Timber+Damp+Humidity+Tester+Detector&_id=141303422304

or

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QZO-4-Pin-Moisture-Meter-Wood-Timber-Damp-Humidity-Tester-Detector-/141303422304?hash=item20e6571d60#shpCntId

Thanks, appreciate it.

bigdawg

Big Nelly wrote: »

Thanks.....was wondering what the difference, guy was saying the cassette is better than a stove.

I have a Meg Cassette (Meg Contemporary 4.5 its called) and its just superb. 4.5kw in a small room. Looks the biz. Great heat output and great control. One of the best things ive ever bought.

cocoman

bigdawg wrote: »

I have a Meg Cassette (Meg Contemporary 4.5 its called) and its just superb. 4.5kw in a small room. Looks the biz. Great heat output and great control. One of the best things ive ever bought.

That looks a nice stove.
Where did you purchase? Price?

bigdawg

gomamochi1 wrote: »

Can I ask what stove would be best to suit our needs?
Stratford eb 25 kW boiler stove or the inis mean mk 2 boiler stove?
17 odd rads in gaff, large open plan kitchen living room space to be heated -500 sq foot, 3 rads in that room also. Joining into oil fired central heating too.
Advice welcome.
Thsnks

I looked at both of those and saw both in live settings. Went with the Inis as I wanted more room heat in a room that has a lot of glass windows. Been very pleased since. 17 rads is probably pushing the Inis Meain a bit but if you are zoned, they wont always be on at once. Also, you will definitely have the 3 rads in that room turned off as its a super room heater, so now you are down to 14. So its well within Inis's comfort zone. Saw the Stratford in another house. A good water/rad heater and was also doing an excellent job on room heat - and this guy was only using turf and wood. The Stratford 20 would probably be closer to the Inis Meain.

Both a good choice but as room heater is a big part of your requirement, i would go with Inis.

bigdawg

happy fish 77 wrote: »

We have a new build house which will be heated by a boiler stove, oil and solar panels for hot water. Upstairs and downstairs radiators will be zoned 12 & 9. The room with stove is 5.8m x 4.1m and standard ceiling height. The stove needs to be external air ready and have an efficiency of 75% or more for ber rating.
We have been recommended the following stoves and I'm looking for your opinions or further suggestions as my brain is addled at the minute with so many stoves on the market.
1. Stanley lismore - haven't been able to see this in real life.
2. Inis meain - think I prefer a single door, but could live with it if needed.
3. Henley druid 21- think the room output is too high.
4. Boru carraig mor 20kw - can't fine ce approval logo
Any advice would be greatly appreciated. We are meeting our plumber at the end of the week and ask his advice too.

Go with the Inis. Me and my wife couldnt see past the double doors to begin with either (2 glasses to clean, akward to load as bucket needs to be brought to front - cant load from side (where stuff is stored), 2 ropes, 2 ashpans etc. But we were convinced it fitted our needs the best so we took the plunge and went for it and havent looked back. We quickly forgot all about our small misgivings. Marvellous stove that does what it states.

morebabies

Hi just wondering, we are going to relocate our boiler stove from our kitchen as I've decided to get a non boiler solid fuel range for the kitchen diner area. Only thing is the stove has a huge heat output, too much for our small sitting room. The only other place to locate it is the hallway in the house, the area is big enough but I've never seen a stove in a hallway before. I guess I'm wondering if it's a totally crazy idea to waste the heat in the hallway instead of a room. Our sitting room is a cold room in general, North facing, but I know the heat from the stove would totally overpower it. Any advice please?

bigdawg

cocoman wrote: »

That looks a nice stove.
Where did you purchase? Price?

Oldens in Cork are sole distributors for Ireland.

I was very happy with the deal. Without nailing anyone to the mast they were a couple of hundred cheaper than Stovax for what is, in my mind, a better stove having seen both first hand.

Im sure oldens will be happy to quote you on one.