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STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

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Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 50 ✭✭bigdawg


    kingjp1st wrote: »
    Sanchez83

    Thanks for getting back to me with your recommendations. I think the stratford EB16 would provide more than enough heat for the water but I'm a little worried that the heat to the room wouldn't be adequate. A few people on boards were disappointed with the heat output to the room. The room is a fairly large open plan kitchen/dining/ living room although there are 3 rads in this room.

    I reckon I need about 13kw at least for the water. I was hoping to get something a bit more contemporary looking although I'm not sure if this exists.

    Thank you again

    If you have doubts that you wont get adequate room heat with a Stratford, then check out Inis. Read up on their brochure/website first and you will see that they are designed completely differently from conventional boiler stoves (most of which have a wraparound boiler) and are better room heaters as a result....


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 277 ✭✭Sanchez83


    Inis don't do a 21kw insert boiler.
    Inis are a good stove but your claim re room heat doesn't add up.
    A boiler stove will heat radiators first and then give room heat.If you keep loading good quality fuel into it(under the assumption there are no chimney draw issues) then of course room heat will increase to a certain level.But this level will never be huge especially with inserts due to the size of the firebox.
    Yes there website says there freestanding stoves give off high room heat output but they don't seem to have an independent test cert like Stanley,Henley and now Pierce to show this....... I bang on about this often on here,test certs are the only heat output that should be believed!
    As for Stratford,I know they are having some issues with their baffle plates being too small,not allowing smoke to travel efficiently in some houses(especially 2 storey).This would in turn have an effect on room heat as the stove will not combust fully.However I think if you are fitting a flexible liner and have a decent draw and use good quality fuel you should be ok.


  • Registered Users Posts: 50 ✭✭bigdawg


    Sanchez83 wrote: »
    Inis don't do a 21kw insert boiler.
    Inis are a good stove but your claim re room heat doesn't add up.
    A boiler stove will heat radiators first and then give room heat.If you keep loading good quality fuel into it(under the assumption there are no chimney draw issues) then of course room heat will increase to a certain level.But this level will never be huge especially with inserts due to the size of the firebox.
    Yes there website says there freestanding stoves give off high room heat output but they don't seem to have an independent test cert like Stanley,Henley and now Pierce to show this....... I bang on about this often on here,test certs are the only heat output that should be believed!
    As for Stratford,I know they are having some issues with their baffle plates being too small,not allowing smoke to travel efficiently in some houses(especially 2 storey).This would in turn have an effect on room heat as the stove will not combust fully.However I think if you are fitting a flexible liner and have a decent draw and use good quality fuel you should be ok.

    My bad, I didn't realise that it was an insert that the poster was referring to. Now that i see that, I would agree that inserts are poorer room heaters than free standing stoves, all things being equal. A friend of mine has had this same experience and had to go from insert to freestanding.

    I take your point on Inis. I've owned 4 stoves and I've seen others in action. And whilst the Inis heat output may not be independently certified, I believe they really have stood back and looked at how stoves have been traditionally designed and sought to re-engineer the design of their own range to address many of the flaws in others. The main flaw of many boiler stoves - and i have witnessed this first hand - is that too much water is introduced to the firebox area robbing the stove of the ability to generate heat. Inis has recognised this and in re-designing their stoves, they have delivered a boiler stove that heats the room early and also heats the water when driven-on. Their product is up there with the best on the market in my eyes anyway.


  • Registered Users Posts: 32 arbf1


    All things being equal what freestanding boiler stove would you choose for best room heat, what's your favourite...there's alot of choiceout there and would be very interested in opinions after reading above debate? Room heat is my priority followed by the rads and then hot water (I have oil and electric shower already as back up but of course would hope to use them less if got right stove) thanks.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 277 ✭✭Sanchez83


    I wouldn't advise any boiler stove on the market for good room heat.
    They are not designed for that and basic physics and chemistry will not allow High room heat.
    If you want room heat,buy a room heater stove.
    If you want to increase your chances of half decent room heat from a boiler stove,pick a good brand,use a professional Hetas qualified fitter,line your chimney,test for chimney draught and use a suitable chimney cowl and finally load high quality fuel into in constantly.As an add on stick a stove fan on top to redistribute the room heat faster before it rises.
    The best 2 21kw insert boilers on the market in Ireland IMO are the Stratford EB16 and the Henley Achill 21kw.There are a few others of lower power including Charnwood SLX,Stanley Cara plus,Pierce Glas boiler etc that are also good.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,242 ✭✭✭Galego


    bigdawg wrote: »
    I would agree that inserts are poorer room heaters than free standing stoves, all things being equal. A friend of mine has had this same experience and had to go from insert to freestanding.

    I am not a stove expert myself but have been told many times by the manufactures that stoves do heat to max output designed for regardless whether it is freestanding or insert.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 179 ✭✭therealmccoy


    arbf1 wrote: »
    All things being equal what freestanding boiler stove would you choose for best room heat, what's your favourite...there's alot of choiceout there and would be very interested in opinions after reading above debate? Room heat is my priority followed by the rads and then hot water (I have oil and electric shower already as back up but of course would hope to use them less if got right stove) thanks.

    The best boiler stove on the market to also heat a room is Inis. Hands down, no debate.

    They typically give double the heat to the room than any of their competitor and thats down purely to the design of the stove and the use of convection in their freestanding stoves.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,787 ✭✭✭hallo dare


    Anyone know where I can pick up some heat shielding for 2 6" flue pipes plus a heat shield for the rear of the stove? Trying to keep the stove nice and tidy to the wall so it's not sticking out so far taking up the whole room.

    I've looked everywhere and the only place I can see them is in America and Canada and cost a bomb to import to Ireland.

    Thanks


  • Registered Users Posts: 32 arbf1


    thank you for the replies...Sanchez83, I notice you gave good recommendations for insert boiler stove above, I agree the two you mentioned are the best insert from looking into it previously but I was actually looking for a stand alone boiler stove this time...which is the best brand in your opinion? Opinions from others very welcome too. Thanks so much.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,184 ✭✭✭k123456


    hallo dare wrote: »
    Anyone know where I can pick up some heat shielding for 2 6" flue pipes plus a heat shield for the rear of the stove? Trying to keep the stove nice and tidy to the wall so it's not sticking out so far taking up the whole room.

    I've looked everywhere and the only place I can see them is in America and Canada and cost a bomb to import to Ireland.

    Thanks

    http://www.dineensales.com/


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  • Registered Users Posts: 50 ✭✭bigdawg


    Galego wrote: »
    I am not a stove expert myself but have been told many times by the manufactures that stoves do heat to max output designed for regardless whether it is freestanding or insert.

    The manufacturers are going to tell you that, of course they will. I'm just telling you what I have come across in my experience so far and I have no vested interest in it other than to help other stove users.


  • Registered Users Posts: 50 ✭✭bigdawg


    The best boiler stove on the market to also heat a room is Inis. Hands down, no debate.

    They typically give double the heat to the room than any of their competitor and thats down purely to the design of the stove and the use of convection in their freestanding stoves.

    This is correct. And as someone that has gone through this exercise (at considerable expense) I can attest to that. I went through this myself first hand. Our first stove (freestanding 20kwh) did not heat the room. Replaced the stove with an Inish Meain - everything else stayed the same, plumbing, draught, stats etc etc. Bang, room was roasting.

    CHOICE OF STOVE IS AS IMPORTANT AS THE SIZING/PLUMBING/FITTING.


  • Registered Users Posts: 50 ✭✭bigdawg


    arbf1 wrote: »
    thank you for the replies...Sanchez83, I notice you gave good recommendations for insert boiler stove above, I agree the two you mentioned are the best insert from looking into it previously but I was actually looking for a stand alone boiler stove this time...which is the best brand in your opinion? Opinions from others very welcome too. Thanks so much.

    I have owned/operated 4 stoves in the past 2 years and seen a number of others in action.

    Best stand alone boiler stoves out there (that I have seen, there may be others):
    Inis
    Stratford

    Hope i can help others save a few bob and see past some of the junk that's out there.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 277 ✭✭Sanchez83


    bigdawg wrote: »
    The manufacturers are going to tell you that, of course they will. I'm just telling you what I have come across in my experience so far and I have no vested interest in it other than to help other stove users.

    An insert stove which is independently certified to 10kw is of course the same as a freestanding stove certified(emphasis on certified)to 10kw. The only variables which can effect this are quality of installation and chimney conditions. These are never a reflection of the stove.
    They are tested under controlled set conditions by internationally known companies such as Gastech UK and SGS.
    A freestanding and insert give off heat in different ways but 10 kW is 10kw regardless.
    Your statement is entirely without base or widespread proof.


  • Registered Users Posts: 32 arbf1


    whats's the opinion on the henley druid 21kw? I notice it has 2kw more to the room than the 25kw model? why/how is this? both very reasonably priced...what is quality/reputation like? thanks.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,184 ✭✭✭k123456


    Hi Folks, looking for an opinion on a stove I in mind please#

    Carraig Mor 20kW Freestanding Boiler Stove


  • Registered Users Posts: 50 ✭✭bigdawg


    Sanchez83 wrote: »
    An insert stove which is independently certified to 10kw is of course the same as a freestanding stove certified(emphasis on certified)to 10kw. The only variables which can effect this are quality of installation and chimney conditions. These are never a reflection of the stove.
    They are tested under controlled set conditions by internationally known companies such as Gastech UK and SGS.
    A freestanding and insert give off heat in different ways but 10 kW is 10kw regardless.
    Your statement is entirely without base or widespread proof.

    You are entitled to your view, and I respect it. However, there is an Irish manufacturer of stoves which is certified (should be fine so?) that is getting a lot of airing on this site and I know one particular plumber who has already taken 3 out of houses. Having done a like-for-like swap with another stove, the houses were rocking. And the 2nd stove that was put in wasn't officially certified.

    Where does that leave you?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 277 ✭✭Sanchez83


    If the second stove wasn't officially certified then it is illegal to have it fitted.Do you mind mentioning which brand this is? For everyone's safety as you say you know they are not certified.
    Advocating the fitting of non certified stoves is pure madness!
    My statement is not a view,it is fact! If it were not fact(rather than hearsay...) then there would be no point in testing any stove.CE compliance is law and exists for a damn good reason!
    My view or opinion is that some brands have better quality than others.
    That some are overpriced and some are well priced.
    Some brands look better than others.
    Your view or opinion along with many other posters here can agree or disagree with my opinion.I have no problem with that.
    BUT a certified heat output,efficiency etc from a reputable testing company is fact and should outweigh any one persons personal opinion.So if a genuine cert states an insert stove is 10kw under the correct conditions,then the stove is 10kw regardless of your opinion.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 277 ✭✭Sanchez83


    Hi K123,

    The Boru Carrig Mor 20kw is probably the second best selling model in the 18-22kw market in the country.The only stove which outsells it is the copy products of the Stanley Erin such as the Olymberyly Aidan,Henley Blasket,Blacksmith Forge etc.They sell because they are a popular traditional look.
    However I would rate the Boru Carrig Mor as a better stove.It may cost you a few quid more but I think you will be happier in the long run.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 50 ✭✭bigdawg


    Sanchez83 wrote: »
    If the second stove wasn't officially certified then it is illegal to have it fitted.Do you mind mentioning which brand this is? For everyone's safety as you say you know they are not certified.
    Advocating the fitting of non certified stoves is pure madness!
    My statement is not a view,it is fact! If it were not fact(rather than hearsay...) then there would be no point in testing any stove.CE compliance is law and exists for a damn good reason!
    My view or opinion is that some brands have better quality than others.
    That some are overpriced and some are well priced.
    Some brands look better than others.
    Your view or opinion along with many other posters here can agree or disagree with my opinion.I have no problem with that.
    BUT a certified heat output,efficiency etc from a reputable testing company is fact and should outweigh any one persons personal opinion.So if a genuine cert states an insert stove is 10kw under the correct conditions,then the stove is 10kw regardless of your opinion.

    When I say that second company is not certified, I should clarify that they do not have their stoves respective heat ratings' certified. They publish the heat ratings, but nothing on the website or brochures says that it has been independently verified. The stoves are perfectly legal I am sure. And, yes, the do appear to deliver the heat that they state.

    Whereas the first company i refer to has such a certification and, personally, I wouldn't buy any of their stoves as they fail to deliver the heat that they claim.

    So what does certification prove in this instance? Not a lot in my mind. That is the only point I am making.

    I wont mention either brand as some people have these stoves and may find nothing at all wrong with them. This is just my experience.

    My point is: you have to see stoves in action and you take them at face value. You cant rely solely on what it says in the brochure - no matter how well certified they are.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 277 ✭✭Sanchez83


    If a stove does not have "Respective heat ratings" then it cannot have CE certification! A CE cert for a stove requires a declaration of performance including heat ratings.


  • Registered Users Posts: 32 arbf1


    Any opinions on the Henley Druid please and thanks?


  • Registered Users Posts: 32 arbf1


    Anyone heard of the Hamco Glenregan...plumber recommended it today. 13kw to water 6kw to room...also how much roughly should it cost to knock out fireplace and plumb stove. I have some issues with pipework to pump plumber said but could allow little extra for that if I knew ballpark...just afraid of being ripped off. If anyone can recommend someone to quote the job (south east) pls do by pm.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 69 ✭✭vwt


    Have been reading a lot of threads on here in relation to stove types and sizing.A lot of people seem to be sizing stoves with online calculators etc......not realising that that you will need to run your stove at maximin output to achieve these values.I would advise to go for at least 1.5 your calculated value.Ive recently had a stove installed as have some of my friends/family.What we found was that the stoves that were oversized performed much better.As regards type of stove,casette type seems much more popular and I personally like the finish as well as the efficiency.We opted for an 11kw casette stove.Using online calculators our room would probably need around 6kw.Luckily we had some advise from an experienced installer who advised us to oversize so we could achieve good heat at half
    capacity.Keep this in mind if your are installing a stove.
    http://s46.photobucket.com/user/goshea1/library/Mobile Uploads?sort=3&page=1


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,578 ✭✭✭Markcheese


    vwt wrote: »
    Have been reading a lot of threads on here in relation to stove types and sizing.A lot of people seem to be sizing stoves with online calculators etc......not realising that that you will need to run your stove at maximin output to achieve these values.I would advise to go for at least 1.5 your calculated value.Ive recently had a stove installed as have some of my friends/family.What we found was that the stoves that were oversized performed much better.As regards type of stove,casette type seems much more popular and I personally like the finish as well as the efficiency.We opted for an 11kw casette stove.Using online calculators our room would probably need around 6kw.Luckily we had some advise from an experienced installer who advised us to oversize so we could achieve good heat at half
    capacity.Keep this in mind if your are installing a stove.
    http://s46.photobucket.com/user/goshea1/library/Mobile%20Uploads?sort=3&page=1

    Doesn't the output depend on the fuel you use as well. Good coal- crap coal - dry hardwood - turf -
    I think turf is about half the heat value of coal -

    Slava ukraini 🇺🇦



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 69 ✭✭vwt


    Markcheese wrote: »
    Doesn't the output depend on the fuel you use as well. Good coal- crap coal - dry hardwood - turf -
    I think turf is about half the heat value of coal -

    Yes the quality/type of fuel will have a massive impact on the efficiency/longevity of your stove/flue.We found kiln dried hardwood to be the best.When we use this there is zero smoke output from our flue and massive heat.Poor quality fuel will also impact your flue liner/chimney resulting in more sweeps.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 277 ✭✭Sanchez83


    VWT-
    Your statement makes no logical sense.
    Heat output= Fuel amount x Calfaric value x Stove efficency.
    Of course a bigger rated stove will give more heat as it has a bigger fuel box to load fuel.Loading a bigger stove with the same amount of fuel as a smaller one will not give any extra heat.
    The whole point of a stove is to save money on fuel and increase heat output.
    Therefore you are best looking at stove that meets your needs as closely as possible but the heat output needs to be nominal rated and with a high certified efficency.
    I would however agree that online calculators can be deceiving and a knowledgable stove retailer would know best.They need to know about number of windows,insulation level,shape of room,position of stove etc.
    To summarise,do not oversize your stove,get good advice on size needed from an expert,buy a high efficency stove that is nominally rated.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 69 ✭✭vwt


    Sanchez83 wrote: »
    VWT-
    Your statement makes no logical sense.
    Heat output= Fuel amount x Calfaric value x Stove efficency.
    Of course a bigger rated stove will give more heat as it has a bigger fuel box to load fuel.Loading a bigger stove with the same amount of fuel as a smaller one will not give any extra heat.
    The whole point of a stove is to save money on fuel and increase heat output.
    Therefore you are best looking at stove that meets your needs as closely as possible but the heat output needs to be nominal rated and with a high certified efficency.
    I would however agree that online calculators can be deceiving and a knowledgable stove retailer would know best.They need to know about number of windows,insulation level,shape of room,position of stove etc.
    To summarise,do not oversize your stove,get good advice on size needed from an expert,buy a high efficency stove that is nominally rated.

    Sanchez my statement makes perfect sense,you either misread what I said or misinterpreted what I meant.For example if you buy a 6kw stove - to achieve 6kw you will need to have it running at maximum output and fully loaded.If you buy a 9kw stove you can achieve 6kw of heat at less than full capacity and also in most cases get a bigger viewing window with the bigger stove.
    So explain to me what exactly makes no logical sense about this?


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,305 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    Does the stove efficiency drop off as you move away from near maximum capacity?

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



  • Closed Accounts Posts: 277 ✭✭Sanchez83


    Nope,I read it correctly.
    6kw of heat will require the same amount of fuel in the big stove as it will in the small stove.
    Efficency is the only thing that would make one stove require less fuel than the other for the same heat output.
    Stove size only allows you to put more fuel in to get more heat if you require more than 6kw.
    Again to repeat the fact,not my opinion btw-
    Heat Output= fuel amount x calfaric value x Stove efficency.
    Stove size only changes the amount of the variables,it doesn't form part of the equation.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 277 ✭✭Sanchez83


    Wearb wrote: »
    Does the stove efficiency drop off as you move away from near maximum capacity?

    Interesting question.
    A stove efficiency will be tested at the required amount of fuel per kg it takes to meet its nominal heat output.
    I don't know the answer to this actually.
    I would imagine the efficiency is less,as like a car it will use more fuel to get the appliance upto an operating temperature before it will give out room heat.Therefore a bigger stove would take longer to get going meaning the efficiency would be lower again.
    Anybody else know the answer to this?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 69 ✭✭vwt


    Sanchez83 wrote: »
    Nope,I read it correctly.
    6kw of heat will require the same amount of fuel in the big stove as it will in the small stove.
    Efficency is the only thing that would make one stove require less fuel than the other for the same heat output.
    Stove size only allows you to put more fuel in to get more heat if you require more than 6kw.
    Again to repeat the fact,not my opinion btw-
    Heat Output= fuel amount x calfaric value x Stove efficency.
    Stove size only changes the amount of the variables,it doesn't form part of the equation.

    I'm not getting into an argument here....but did you not just back up my statement..if 6kw of Heat requires the same amount of fuel in each stove does that not denote that the smaller stove would require it to be full and the larger stove not to be!
    Anyway I'm offering my opinions based on my stove and around 20 friends and family of mine.A few of those opted for smaller stoves based on online calculators and so called 'expert' advice and were sorely disappointed with the heat output.And one final point-I sought the advice of three independent hetas qualified installers and had my installation done by one.I think perhaps he posts on here.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 69 ✭✭vwt


    Wearb wrote: »
    Does the stove efficiency drop off as you move away from near maximum capacity?

    From all the stoves I looked at it seemed to me that the smaller stoves were slightly more efficient than larger ones.There is many variables here to consider such as the quality of the installation,fuel,air supply,flue condition etc.You would have to imagine that the stove operates more efficiently at full capacity.Again though I don't know for sure,I'm sure somebody will have the answer.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,305 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    Sanchez83 wrote: »
    Interesting question.
    A stove efficiency will be tested at the required amount of fuel per kg it takes to meet its nominal heat output.
    I don't know the answer to this actually.
    I would imagine the efficiency is less,as like a car it will use more fuel to get the appliance upto an operating temperature before it will give out room heat.Therefore a bigger stove would take longer to get going meaning the efficiency would be lower again.
    Anybody else know the answer to this?

    My GUESS is that running it at less than capacity would reduce efficiency because the flue would have been sized for maximum capacity.

    I too would like to see data on this.

    In relation to question/statement above; using say a 10kw stove at half capacity to achieve a 5kw output. Would the amount of fuel needed be half that needed to run it at 10kw - ignoring the initial heat up.
    I would think that more than half would be needed, but would like to know for sure.

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



  • Closed Accounts Posts: 277 ✭✭Sanchez83


    vwt wrote: »
    I'm not getting into an argument here....but did you not just back up my statement..if 6kw of Heat requires the same amount of fuel in each stove does that not denote that the smaller stove would require it to be full and the larger stove not to be!
    Anyway I'm offering my opinions based on my stove and around 20 friends and family of mine.A few of those opted for smaller stoves based on online calculators and so called 'expert' advice and were sorely disappointed with the heat output.And one final point-I sought the advice of three independent hetas qualified installers and had my installation done by one.I think perhaps he posts on here.

    I have a Hetas qualification.
    Yes the smaller stove would need to be full but it's the same amount of fuel! This is the point you seem to be missing.
    I'm not arguing about the smaller stove being full.

    My point is this-
    Heat output= fuel amount x calfaric value x stove efficiency
    So if you require 6kw-
    6kw= Fuel amount same both stoves x calfaric value same both stoves x stove efficiency(assuming same in both)(Normally less in bigger stove actually)
    The size of the stove only comes into play if you require more than 6kw of heat.

    Manufacturers build stoves to operate at the stated heat outputs.
    They do not design a 11kw stove to operate as a 6kw stove.

    It's great that you are happy with your 11kw stove but I'd be 100% sure you are using more fuel than you would if it was a 6kw stove.That's your choice and it's a safe choice.But it's not the best possible choice IMO.
    My advice is to help people to get the heat they need at the most economical price.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 277 ✭✭Sanchez83


    vwt wrote: »
    From all the stoves I looked at it seemed to me that the smaller stoves were slightly more efficient than larger ones.There is many variables here to consider such as the quality of the installation,fuel,air supply,flue condition etc.You would have to imagine that the stove operates more efficiently at full capacity.Again though I don't know for sure,I'm sure somebody will have the answer.

    You are backing up my point here.
    If your bigger 11kw stove operates at a lower efficiency because it's not full then the 6kw stove full must be more fuel efficient.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 69 ✭✭vwt


    Sanchez83 wrote: »
    You are backing up my point here.
    If your bigger 11kw stove operates at a lower efficiency because it's not full then the 6kw stove full must be more fuel efficient.

    I think its fact that all of the smaller stoves are more efficient than the larger ones.I think we are talking about differnet things here.Anyway i think the look of the stove is very important also...ie large glass door for viewing effect of flames etc needs to be considered....Also i think the extra fuel we would use with the larger stove would be minimal...even when we operate at half capacity.Different strokes and all that...im just offering my opinion from MY experience.Stoves are a quite a large investment and ive seen more than friend unhappy with the outcome.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 277 ✭✭Sanchez83


    Wearb wrote: »
    My GUESS is that running it at less than capacity would reduce efficiency because the flue would have been sized for maximum capacity.

    I too would like to see data on this.

    In relation to question/statement above; using say a 10kw stove at half capacity to achieve a 5kw output. Would the amount of fuel needed be half that needed to run it at 10kw - ignoring the initial heat up.
    I would think that more than half would be needed, but would like to know for sure.

    I would tend to agree.
    Will do some research.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 69 ✭✭vwt


    Sanchez83 wrote: »
    You are backing up my point here.
    If your bigger 11kw stove operates at a lower efficiency because it's not full then the 6kw stove full must be more fuel efficient.

    I think its fact that all of the smaller stoves are more efficient than the larger ones.I think we are talking about differnet things here.Anyway i think the look of the stove is very important also...ie large glass door for viewing effect of flames etc needs to be considered....Also i think the extra fuel we would use with the larger stove would be minimal...even when we operate at half capacity.Different strokes and all that...im just offering my opinion from MY experience.Stoves are a quite a large investment and ive seen more than friend unhappy with the outcome.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 69 ✭✭vwt


    Sanchez83 wrote: »
    Hi Mollybelle,
    I would suggest that you should always over estimate the heat output you require so the Boru 600i seems fine.That 10kw is a maximum heat output as far as I'm aware so will be closer to 8kw nominal.
    If it seems too hot just reduce them air intake and fuel levels.

    Sanchez seems like with all your expertise you are giving conflicting advice.
    Did you not just yesterday say you should NOT oversize your stove??
    :rolleyes:


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 277 ✭✭Sanchez83


    Ok then.....
    Trolling back to posts 18 months ago.You had to go 170 posts to find something to pick at.
    Ok, my advise there wasn't the best.However lady needed a 6-8kw stove based on online calculator which I have stated I wouldn't trust.Also that 600i is 10kw max and 8kw nominal.As you have seen I advise all nominal heat outputs so therefore the stove was the correct size and not oversized.But I could have advised better.But I suppose I have picked up a lot of knowledge in the last 18 months.
    Anyway just move on,people will read our opinions and choose for themselves.


  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    MOD: We'll leave it there now, thank you.


  • Moderators, Education Moderators Posts: 2,283 Mod ✭✭✭✭angeldaisy


    I've been looking round at inset stoves, these are the ones I have been recommended;

    Riva 55 : Boru 400i : Faro 600i

    Would these be the best ones?

    How much should I expect to pay to get it fitted, one quote came in around 900 for fittings and labour. Does that seem reasonable? The chimney is quite tall, we need 6mtrs of lining.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,823 ✭✭✭ballyharpat


    angeldaisy wrote: »
    I've been looking round at inset stoves, these are the ones I have been recommended;

    Riva 55 : Boru 400i : Faro 600i

    Would these be the best ones?

    How much should I expect to pay to get it fitted, one quote came in around 900 for fittings and labour. Does that seem reasonable? The chimney is quite tall, we need 6mtrs of lining.

    I installed a firebird 16" insert, it is superb, it has the back boiler, heats up real fast and burns efficient, If it is a dry stove, that definitely seems high to me, there is only half a days work in it, unless you are knocking the fireplace? the fittings are just the flue and metafill, should be no more than
    200, installation, maybe 300 tops?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 80 ✭✭virgo69


    angeldaisy wrote: »
    I've been looking round at inset stoves, these are the ones I have been recommended;

    Riva 55 : Boru 400i : Faro 600i

    Would these be the best ones?

    How much should I expect to pay to get it fitted, one quote came in around 900 for fittings and labour. Does that seem reasonable? The chimney is quite tall, we need 6mtrs of lining.

    I paid around the same for a heat design insert stove, no back boiler and no lining of the chimney, it did include chimney clean though. I would imagine the Riva is probably superior the the heat design though?


  • Registered Users Posts: 32 arbf1


    Hi I was in a stoveshop today. Saw the Henley druid 21. It's a massive size......it's 1099 euro. got quotes of 400 euro to cut out fireplace by builder and 250 euro to plumb by plumber (I will be supplying cement, lentil, tiles, etc...but haven't priced these yet) The stovedealer said flue into existing chimney is 80 euro but a flexiflueliner kit (is 9metre standard?) vermiculite and flue pipe is 420 euro...which is the recommended method?

    I'm still unsure id the druid 21 meets my requirements. I have 5 double rads and 3 old single rads currently (these 3 may need to be updated later).

    Here's the measurements in feet if anyone can help. The room I'm putting stove in is a sitting room (16x13) with standard single rad. I have a kitchen (10x8) off this using double door with a standard double rad in here. There is also single door to hall with high ceiling off this. There is a small double rad out here. I would leave these doors open if heat was too much in room with stove. Off the hall is the bathroom (5x6) there is a small double rad in here and it is the best heated room in house due to it's size when oil is on. I have two bedrooms off the hall (16x14) and (15x17) both these rooms have an old standard size single rad. In the attic conversion are 2 further bedrooms (10x12) with a small double rad in both. The hot water cylinder is standard and is lagged. The plumber did look at rads and cylinder but didn't measure them...he did however measure the area of the house (33x26) which as you can tell from measurement is modest enough...it's really a 2 bed cottage. the 25kwDruid is 200 euro more and I'm conscious that its bigger again and can heat a house much bigger than mine.......PLEASE PLEASE give me your opinions. Now that I've got quotes I want to push on ahead but don't want to make any poor decisions either.


  • Moderators, Education Moderators Posts: 2,283 Mod ✭✭✭✭angeldaisy


    I installed a firebird 16" insert, it is superb, it has the back boiler, heats up real fast and burns efficient, If it is a dry stove, that definitely seems high to me, there is only half a days work in it, unless you are knocking the fireplace? the fittings are just the flue and metafill, should be no more than
    200, installation, maybe 300 tops?

    Thanks, I think I'll phone around a couple of people to quote for fitting.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 69 ✭✭vwt


    I got a few quotes before I went ahead
    My breakdown was
    Lining chimney,including fittings,cowl,vermiculite etc -450
    Labour - 300
    Stove - 1000
    Granite hearth plus surround for stove -150
    Labour quotes can vary a lot depending on your fireplace.Mine had to be increased in size to accommodate the stove.Two guys were there for around 6 hours I think.I was left to plaster around the stove.Every company who priced my job all advised that the chimney should be lined regardless of condition.This would improve the efficiency of the stove and was best practice so I went ahead and got it done.Hope this helps.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,666 ✭✭✭charlie_says


    Just wanted to tell all the helpful folks here that I got my Stratford EB16i insert working just the way I like it now. It heats the house great and the room fine.

    My mistakes in the past were, not loading it enough (it really needs to be fully loaded once it's gotten nice and hot) and I also had a pipe thermostat connected to my pump so it only pumps water in and out at the required temperature.

    It's a great stove, it's more boiler than anything else but it can pump out great heat to the room when you load it up and use the controls correctly.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 277 ✭✭Sanchez83


    arbf1 wrote: »
    Hi I was in a stoveshop today. Saw the Henley druid 21. It's a massive size......it's 1099 euro. got quotes of 400 euro to cut out fireplace by builder and 250 euro to plumb by plumber (I will be supplying cement, lentil, tiles, etc...but haven't priced these yet) The stovedealer said flue into existing chimney is 80 euro but a flexiflueliner kit (is 9metre standard?) vermiculite and flue pipe is 420 euro...which is the recommended method?

    I'm still unsure id the druid 21 meets my requirements. I have 5 double rads and 3 old single rads currently (these 3 may need to be updated later).

    Here's the measurements in feet if anyone can help. The room I'm putting stove in is a sitting room (16x13) with standard single rad. I have a kitchen (10x8) off this using double door with a standard double rad in here. There is also single door to hall with high ceiling off this. There is a small double rad out here. I would leave these doors open if heat was too much in room with stove. Off the hall is the bathroom (5x6) there is a small double rad in here and it is the best heated room in house due to it's size when oil is on. I have two bedrooms off the hall (16x14) and (15x17) both these rooms have an old standard size single rad. In the attic conversion are 2 further bedrooms (10x12) with a small double rad in both. The hot water cylinder is standard and is lagged. The plumber did look at rads and cylinder but didn't measure them...he did however measure the area of the house (33x26) which as you can tell from measurement is modest enough...it's really a 2 bed cottage. the 25kwDruid is 200 euro more and I'm conscious that its bigger again and can heat a house much bigger than mine.......PLEASE PLEASE give me your opinions. Now that I've got quotes I want to push on ahead but don't want to make any poor decisions either.

    Your plumber really should have measured your rads and given you a BTU requirement.Without measurements it's hard to be sure.
    I would estimate you need 14.6kw to the water and 4kw to room but that's a rough estimate.Only a plumber can tell you 100%.
    A 21kw stove should suffice.


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