STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

MayoMagic

Sanchez83 wrote: »

Hi Mayo Magic,

Whoever told you that must have been burning some serious crap in their stove because the Henley Druid is one of the best quality products on the market.
I've seen a few issues with paint peeling and needing to be re sprayed but never once a problem with the quality of the stove or it's parts.
Hunter Herald are not a popular stove here in Ireland as they are way overpriced for what they are.
Pick up the phone and ring some henley stockists and ask them straight out if they have replaced a Henley Druid grate in the last 6 months,I'd bet no.

Cheers Sanchez! I've been around to a few stockists today and cannot find a single complaint against the Druid so I'm pretty much convinced to go with it.

Also, it looks like from what I read online that Hunter do not provide an External Air Supply whereas Henley do provide this - so thats another mark against the Hunter I guess.

Sanchez83

The Henley Druid double is not external air ready I'm afraid.
I'm not aware of any double sided freestanding that is actually,maybe the Boru Carrig double but not certain.

MayoMagic

Sanchez83 wrote: »

The Henley Druid double is not external air ready I'm afraid.
I'm not aware of any double sided freestanding that is actually,maybe the Boru Carrig double but not certain.

Crap I was sure they told me it was!
We have a duct already in place supplying air from outside to directly under chimney, I guess it will still be used/drawn by stove just not as effectively without the fittings needed?

arbf1

I installed a Henley Druid 21kw boiler stove into my fireplace after agonizing about it for months...have lit it few evenings with recent cold spell...heat to room is substantially better to my old back boiler and the rads and water are heating to good level too...have only lit wood fires to date but happy so far with it in case anyone considering it.

Sanchez83

Little tip with the Druid boiler but can be used with most good boiler stoves.
Play around with the thermostat each time you light it and see which works best.
Try it at 1 the first night,2 the second etc.You kind of have to match it to your chimney draw.
Once you have found the setting that you think leaves the correct amount of air in through the thermostat you might never have to touch it again,then follow the below.
Open primary air vents and glass cleaner when lighting for approx the first 20mins.Then open the tertiary air underneath the stove after 20mins.then shut down the primary air completely and the glass cleaner 75%.You will find the boiler heat increases big time when shut down like this.
Very important you clean the ashes out everyday to allow air to travel properly as it can block it up a bit.

Sanchez83

MayoMagic wrote: »

Crap I was sure they told me it was!
We have a duct already in place supplying air from outside to directly under chimney, I guess it will still be used/drawn by stove just not as effectively without the fittings needed?

I'm quiet sure it doesn't.
The pipe will bring air into the room like a vent in the wall/window.
So yes the stove will draw as normal but you are correct in that the control won't be as good as it can be.

cocobean

We are considering taking out our Mulberry Yeats Back Boiler and replacing with with a fitted insert stove with a back boiler. Reason for taking out the Yeats is because it was never strong enough to service our rads properly. We need a 17kw output . We have 10 rads in the house with half of those being doubles and the rest singles.

Can anyone recommend a back boiler insert stove that they have had fitted and are happy with.

Thanks in advance.

olestoepoke

Hi guys I've bought a stratford eb20 and a 15kw heat genie, I now need a good plumber to install for me, do you guys have any recommendations cheers

Cks5

Having gone full circle from using oil with a large stove with back boiler to heat over 4500sqf, to pellet boiler, to gshp, we could be back to the oil and stove combo, to heat a thermal store which would run ufh on both floors and hot water for a family of 5.
We should have access to a lot of free or cheap wood and plenty of room to store it.
Does anyone recommend a stove with back boiler and on a side not are we mad going for this option.
The gshp is working out a very expensive install, with the pump, grounds works etc etc. but offset by the rhi scheme up north

hometruths

I am hoping to install boiler stove to do central heating only, not hot water, as per previous post.

if a 20k stove for example has output of 8 to the room and 12 to the water to heat approx 14 rads - if there is no requirement to heat hot water will it heat more rads?

Sorry if that's a dumb question!

Bruthal

schmittel wrote: »

I am hoping to install boiler stove to do central heating only, not hot water, as per previous post.

if a 20k stove for example has output of 8 to the room and 12 to the water to heat approx 14 rads - if there is no requirement to heat hot water will it heat more rads?

Sorry if that's a dumb question!

If it is putting out 12kw to water, some if it would be used to heat the cylinder, but the cylinder when its heated up, will no longer be taking heat from the stove, apart from losses which would be low on insulated cylinders, and as hot water is used.

So realistically, when the cylinder is heated up, the full 12kw would be going to the radiators.

arbf1

Hi I am just wondering if anyone could advise me what to do with 2 large bags vermiculite I have left over from installing stove. Unfortunately they both have slight tear on top so shop won't take them back. They are unused and in perfect condition. I have them taped and in the spare bedroom as didn't want them being ruined but they are taking up space. Don't want to throw them away as they are worth 60 euro. I have the receipt. Also have a back boiler from open fire, grate and bits to go with it, a single radiator and a fireplace. I'm not trying to advertise I just need advice on what to do with them or if anyone knows where I could sell them on...feel free to PM. Thanks.

k123456

arbf1 wrote: »

Hi I am just wondering if anyone could advise me what to do with 2 large bags vermiculite I have left over from installing stove. Unfortunately they both have slight tear on top so shop won't take them back. They are unused and in perfect condition. I have them taped and in the spare bedroom as didn't want them being ruined but they are taking up space. Don't want to throw them away as they are worth 60 euro. I have the receipt. Also have a back boiler from open fire, grate and bits to go with it, a single radiator and a fireplace. I'm not trying to advertise I just need advice on what to do with them or if anyone knows where I could sell them on...feel free to PM. Thanks.

adverts.ie

addisb

Hi all,
Hope I am not hijacking anyone's thread here. Hope it is in the right place.
Recently installed a Yeoman Stove and Heat Genie. First class piece of kit, delighted with performance and safety features. The system is fitted with 2 Lowara Pumps. 1 circulates the rads/DHW heating coil etc. and the second the stove water. All working fine except when the stove gets up to good operating temperature then the ( Stove ) circulating system sounds as if a tap is running - water trickling. Coming from around the pump which is on the return. I thought perhaps there was air in the system but the pump has been bled and there is an auto air vent at the top of the system ( which is now closed ! ) Once the system cools the noise is gone, there's only the hum of the pump motor. Wondering if this is potentially long term damaging only just annoying /( turn up the telly ! ) Would appreciate any replies / thoughts.
Best Regards,
Chris

Jane98

I am looking for a multi fuel room heater stove 9-10 kw and went to a stove shop at the weekend.

Was advised to buy a steel stove as they heat up much quicker than cast iron. The Charnwood Island II was recommended to me at a cost of €1600.

Anyone an opinion on this stove and whether steel is best? Other recommendations also appreciated.

k123456

Hi Any experience of these
http://www.dineensales.com/downloads/dinboardSheet.pdf


How heat resistant are they, reason I ask, i want to make an outdoor wood fired pizza over/bbq , which will be clad in ;
http://www.stonepanels.ie/stone_gallery/index.html

Can these panels take the heat of wood burning, in the same way a stove can
or are they more for the surround of a stove , ie wall behind it

I have a stove, and the idea is , as I have quiet a bit of logs , use some logs for pizza oven/bbq
https://www.google.ie/search?q=wood+fired+pizza+oven&espv=2&biw=1366&bih=643&site=webhp&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=p01SVdLsIsa07gapj4LADw&sqi=2&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAQ

Robbie.G

https://www.facebook.com/OrielTrainingAcademy/posts/1658174661077766

blue5000

When our chimney was being built the blocklayer made a b*lls of the chimney, there are 2 lintels under the flue gatherer, there is a 4'' stove pipe fitted. We want to buy a new stove, is it possible to fit a 6 inch stovepipe? I don't think a 6 inch pipe can be reduced to 4 inches. Any advice?

naughtysmurf

We got one of these installed recently, 6.6kw, happy with it, we have been using it even though the weather is mild just to get familiar with it, it's not running any rads

My questions, it has airwash technology which is supposed to keep the glass clean, doesn't keep ours clean, is this just sales patter?

What fuel gets you the best bang heatwise for your buck? when we had the open fire, a bag of polish & a bale of briquettes a week in the cold weather would get us through, we have been using blocks & small bit of turf in the stove, but we are horsing through the ash & birch blocks

Thanks

Sanchez83

Turf equals dirty glass.
Timber must be dry and have a moisture content below 20%.
Lever on the left side must be open to keep glass clean. This allows hot air to travel over the glass keeping it clean.
Best fuel is kiln dried timber,the harder the wood the longer it should last.
If you are using more than 4 logs in the first hour and 3 every hour after based on a moisture content of below 20% than there is something up.
Do you close the primary air wheel after the first 30 mins? If not this will keep air travelling through the stove and over burning the fuel.
If you are closing the wheel and it's still over burning you probably have a chimney draught issue.

naughtysmurf

Sanchez83 wrote: »

Turf equals dirty glass.
Timber must be dry and have a moisture content below 20%.
Lever on the left side must be open to keep glass clean. This allows hot air to travel over the glass keeping it clean.
Best fuel is kiln dried timber,the harder the wood the longer it should last.
If you are using more than 4 logs in the first hour and 3 every hour after based on a moisture content of below 20% than there is something up.
Do you close the primary air wheel after the first 30 mins? If not this will keep air travelling through the stove and over burning the fuel.
If you are closing the wheel and it's still over burning you probably have a chimney draught issue.

Ok, good to know about the turf, the timber we are using is dry with low moisture content,
As regards the lever, the Henley video on their website shows pushing that lever upwards after fire is going, is that the open position? & closing the primary air wheel

Yes we close the the primary air wheel, today I didn't need to leave it open for more than 10mins after lighting with firelighters, kindling & 3 blocks

Three logs an hour is ok? thought that would be a lot tbh, €8 for a net of ash. if it lasted for three days, say two a week, isn't any cheaper than coal?

All a bit of a learning curve

Sanchez83

A net of Ash at e8.Sounds expensive!
Where are you buying this? If from a garage I can guarantee it doesn't have a low moisture content.
At 3 an hour I was covering my estimate really.4 every 2hrs would be about the norm.

tbukela

Folks, any opinions/recommendations on the Thormia brand of wood burners? I like some of the designs and they seem to be cheaper than some of the Stovax/Dovre ones.

splashthecash

Hi all,

We are thinking of purchasing an insert stove for this coming winter. We are not interested in a boiler stove, so just heat for the sitting room itself will be sufficient.

Some questions...

There was a gas fire installed in the sitting room when we moved in, but I had that taken out and we had a few open fires in the fireplace...but there is no split down the centre of the base so i don't know if that'll work. Ideally, I would like to have a one stop shop with whoever we go with in that they will come and take a look at the current fireplace and tell us if it'll work, and if so, they will tell us what size Kw stove we should be looking for and after we select it, they'll come down and install everything.

Does anyone have any recommendations of places in the Leinster area (specifically Kildare) that would do this level of service?

knockon

Hi
We have an open plan with a sitting room 16 x 18 which is where the stove will be and where we spend the evenings and arch way from that to a kitchen of 14 x 10 and another room with an open door way of 16 x 16 feet with one of the walls all glass. I have supplementary heating in the whole area with central heating and a huge farraho electric heater. I am thinking of getting a Aarrow i600 7.5kw -10kw Multi fuel insert stove not connected to back boiler or rads. Its €2450 inclusive of VAT and builders work...sound ok?

naughtysmurf

Sanchez83 wrote: »

A net of Ash at e8.Sounds expensive!
Where are you buying this? If from a garage I can guarantee it doesn't have a low moisture content.
At 3 an hour I was covering my estimate really.4 every 2hrs would be about the norm.

Not a garage, a fuel supplier in Limerick, I also bought a bag of smokeless stove fuel, this seems to have helped considerably, use about six pieces when lighting, this leaves a nice red bed for the blocks, heat output is up & not using as many blocks at all,

BarneyMc

Currently building a new house with UFH and very well insulated. The freestanding, wood burning stove with external air inlet will sit in the corner of the kitchen/dining area which is 5m by 7m and 8 and half foot ceilings. There will be double doors leading into a living room which is 4.6m x 5m and hope to be able to heat this also with the stove.

Can someone please recommend a suitable output? Also, what about any of these as potential suitors?

knockon

knockon wrote: »

Hi
We have an open plan with a sitting room 16 x 18 which is where the stove will be and where we spend the evenings and arch way from that to a kitchen of 14 x 10 and another room with an open door way of 16 x 16 feet with one of the walls all glass. I have supplementary heating in the whole area with central heating and a huge farraho electric heater. I am thinking of getting a Aarrow i600 7.5kw -10kw Multi fuel insert stove not connected to back boiler or rads. Its €2450 inclusive of VAT and builders work...sound ok?

Anyone?

therealmccoy

knockon wrote: »

Hi
We have an open plan with a sitting room 16 x 18 which is where the stove will be and where we spend the evenings and arch way from that to a kitchen of 14 x 10 and another room with an open door way of 16 x 16 feet with one of the walls all glass. I have supplementary heating in the whole area with central heating and a huge farraho electric heater. I am thinking of getting a Aarrow i600 7.5kw -10kw Multi fuel insert stove not connected to back boiler or rads. Its €2450 inclusive of VAT and builders work...sound ok?

Ya, seems ok, might get a little hot in the immediate room after a while.
Price seems ok depending on the work.
That stove retails around the 1600e mark so depending on flue (Im guessing flexi?) and what ever else needs to be done it doesnt seem too far off the mark.

knockon

therealmccoy wrote: »

Ya, seems ok, might get a little hot in the immediate room after a while.
Price seems ok depending on the work.
That stove retails around the 1600e mark so depending on flue (Im guessing flexi?) and what ever else needs to be done it doesnt seem too far off the mark.

Good man - thanks

wilser

Am going to fit a stove in the next couple of weeks and I am looking for a bit of advice.

The stove has four water connections,
Is it best practise to use two of these for the hot water and the other two for the rads, our just use opposite sides for both?
Its as easy to do it either way atm so just wanted to see if it made a difference which way to do it.
Haven't fit a back boiler/stove system in about 20 years so am out of the loop a bit.
Thanks

Bruthal

wilser wrote: »

Am going to fit a stove in the next couple of weeks and I am looking for a bit of advice.

The stove has four water connections,
Is it best practise to use two of these for the hot water and the other two for the rads, our just use opposite sides for both?
Its as easy to do it either way atm so just wanted to see if it made a difference which way to do it.
Haven't fit a back boiler/stove system in about 20 years so am out of the loop a bit.
Thanks

I installed a stove recently, connecting it into a gas sealed system via a heat genie, and as such, used just 2 ports.

Another stove I installed last year I used all 4, one set for the cylinder coil to heat via gravity, and the other set for the radiators. Using all 4 eliminates the problem of the radiator circuit flowing through the cylinder coil and back out to radiators, thus avoiding properly flowing back through the stove.

Dtp1979

Bruthal wrote: »

I installed a stove recently, connecting it into a gas sealed system via a heat genie, and as such, used just 2 ports.

Another stove I installed last year I used all 4, one set for the cylinder coil to heat via gravity, and the other set for the radiators. Using all 4 eliminates the problem of the radiator circuit flowing through the cylinder coil and back out to radiators, thus avoiding properly flowing back through the stove.

Or just use an injector tee. If it's possible, use all 4 ports. Use opposite corners, as in top right bottom left for rads and opposite for hot water.
But using 2 ports can work perfectly fine too if plumbed correctly. Always use opposite corners

Bruthal

Dtp1979 wrote: »

Or just use an injector tee.

Can do that alright if only 2 ports can be used.

Bruthal

wilser wrote: »

Am going to fit a stove in the next couple of weeks and I am looking for a bit of advice.

The stove has four water connections,
Is it best practise to use two of these for the hot water and the other two for the rads, our just use opposite sides for both?
Its as easy to do it either way atm so just wanted to see if it made a difference which way to do it.
Haven't fit a back boiler/stove system in about 20 years so am out of the loop a bit.
Thanks

Here are some diagrams of both setups, using 4 ports or 2, including an injector t for the 2 port setup, and the bottom diagram shows the effect of using 2 ports without the t.

They are not complete diagrams, but show the 2 and 4 port setups at least. The feed pipe etc is not shown.

THE DON FANUCCI

well guys, I'm starting a new build. 2,300 sq ft. two storey. Oil central heating and a back boiler.15 rads.

is there a regulation that says i need solar panels to fulfil the renewable energy requirement for a new build??
or will my wooden log stove with back boiler cover the renewable energy requirement? (PS i hate the sight of solar panels)
excuse me because i know sweet f-all about plumbing!!

BarneyMc

Blowheads wrote: »

We had a DRU 64 stove, very, very good. Be careful where you are putting it, that the room is of the correct size. It could "melt" you

Is this the wood burning or multi-fuel and what fuel did you use? Also what' the room size? I'm looking at the 55 and 64 models (both wood burning only).

k123456

THE DON FANUCCI wrote: »

well guys, I'm starting a new build. 2,300 sq ft. two storey. Oil central heating and a back boiler.15 rads.

is there a regulation that says i need solar panels to fulfil the renewable energy requirement for a new build??
or will my wooden log stove with back boiler cover the renewable energy requirement? (PS i hate the sight of solar panels)
excuse me because i know sweet f-all about plumbing!!

It certainly is debatable whether solar will pay for itself , in your case you will be generating a lot of hot water from your wooden log stove with back boiler

For our build, we decided against solar
We generate lots of hot water, from the wood burner

It would have taken 26 years for the solar to pay for itself. This payback does not include
maintenance of solar panels, system
loss of efficiency over time

beveragelady

Hi,
Does anybody know what make this stove is? It's in the house I bought and I'd like to get specific info on maintenance, suitable fuels etc. I can't find a maker's mark on it anywhere. I think it was installed around 2008, and there's a good chance it was specially imported by the previous owner.
Any info at all would be a help.

olestoepoke

Hi guys, I've bought a stratford eb20 and a heat genie, I'm now looking for an installer. Its not as easy as i thought can anyone recommend a good plumber with experience installing boiler stoves, i phoned a few different plumbers and some of them had never heard of a heat genie so that was a red flag. thanks

therealmccoy

olestoepoke wrote: »

Hi guys, I've bought a stratford eb20 and a heat genie, I'm now looking for an installer. Its not as easy as i thought can anyone recommend a good plumber with experience installing boiler stoves, i phoned a few different plumbers and some of them had never heard of a heat genie so that was a red flag. thanks

Where in the country are you?

olestoepoke

north dublin

Bruthal

olestoepoke wrote: »

Hi guys, I've bought a stratford eb20 and a heat genie, I'm now looking for an installer. Its not as easy as i thought can anyone recommend a good plumber with experience installing boiler stoves, i phoned a few different plumbers and some of them had never heard of a heat genie so that was a red flag. thanks

I used a heat genie on my own stove when I installed it recently. I still have to complete the wiring to lock out the gas boiler when stove is on, but the heat genie is great, although in reality, heat exchanging is not a complex matter really. But at least you will know it works great.

olestoepoke

Bruthal wrote: »

I used a heat genie on my own stove when I installed it recently. I still have to complete the wiring to lock out the gas boiler when stove is on, but the heat genie is great, although in reality, heat exchanging is not a complex matter really. But at least you will know it works great.

Thank you

quazzy

Hi there,

I was looking into getting a stove in the house.

Not sure about freestanding stove or insert one.

One shop mentioned that if you get a insert stove (and because I have a wooden surround) I could only get a 4kW stove.

Is this true for insert stoves?

And secondly, if I opted for a freestanding stove does the same restriction hold true w.r.t. having the wooden surround.

Thanks in advance,

positivenote

Hi All,
just got Henley Valentia 5kW insert stove, having never had or lived in a house with a fire (open or stove) before can anyone let me know what else I'll need to get, utensils wise, and what wood/coal to get and how where to store etc... total newbie with fire so any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks

R0C

Looking at buying a Stanley Donard Solid Fuel range new to fit in a kitchen, hoping to heat radiators and have hot water and occasional cooking too.

Would like to hear from someone who already has one of these fitted.
I have endless supply of turf and sticks, so would be running it on these, but I note the firebox is quite small - is this an issue for anyone?
We cut the sticks ourselves so can cut them smaller, but it doesn't look like there's room to fit a lot of fuel into it. Is it a matter of filling it very regularly or is it incredibly efficient?

Officially they say the Donards can heat 'Up to 12' radiators but I've seen people quote both higher and lower - how many (single? double?) are people realistically heating from the range?

What about the equivalent Rayburn model, is there a larger firebox in that?

Any info appreciated..

blindside88

Hi guys,

Can anyone tell me whether or not I will need to change this fireplace if I want to put in a 5kw/6kw stove. I've been told I may have to change it as it has a wooden surround.

Thanks in advance

Blindside

Bruthal

blindside88 wrote: »

Hi guys,

Can anyone tell me whether or not I will need to change this fireplace if I want to put in a 5kw/6kw stove. I've been told I may have to change it as it has a wooden surround.

Thanks in advance

Blindside

I think insert stoves can be got to fit straight into them fireplaces without removing any of the fireplace surround.

Thats was the same type fireplace I had before putting in a free standing room heating stove. The existing wood surround would have been ok with it. I since removed that stove and replaced with a boiler one, completely opening out the fireplace, removing the flue gather (6.5kw room heat stove was ok with gather staying), and original wood surround gone.

First image is with room heater. I had to widen original fireplace a little to take it. Then changed plans and went for a boiler stove, requiring further widening, removing the flue gather, and fitting a lintel. Still not totally finished, but close. A lot of work in it, and its linked into the gas heating system as well.

Installation progress photos here

blindside88

Bruthal wrote: »

Thats was the same type fireplace I had before putting in a room heating stove. The existing wood surround would have been ok with it. I since removed that stove and replaced with a boiler one, completely opening out the fireplace, removing the flue gather (6.5kw room heat stove was ok with gather staying), and original wood surround gone.

First image is with room heater. I had to widen original fireplace a little to take it. Then changed plans and went for a boiler stove, requiring further widening, removing the flue gather, and fitting a lintel. Still not totally finished, but close. A lot of work in it, and its linked into the gas heating system as well.

Installation progress photos here

Thanks very much for that, very informative. I was hoping to just put in the freestanding stove without too much extra work/cost needed. The wife has other plans and would like a new fireplace as well