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STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    mk2 wrote: »
    Was thinking of goin for an insert stove with a back boiler to heat 12 radiators,as follows.
    4x1160mm
    2x950mm Double
    2x950mm Single
    2x900mm
    1x580mm
    1x460mm,
    Our sitting room is 15'x13'.
    The house is insulated and has double glazing.
    Any advice on what make would be the best.
    The budget would flexable depending on the quality and efficiency but all suggestions will looked into!

    Hi:) I have worked out the total Kw required of your rads and your domestic hot water and it is:



    Rads 13.6kw
    Hot water add 3.0kw
    Total 16.6kw


    Hot water requires around 3 KW for a standard sized cylinder.

    Your very much over the largest inset boiler stove, by around 4kw. (There are larger output inset boiler stoves but they cost thousands) This wont make a huge difference providing you either turn some of the rads off or fit some of the rads with thermostatic radiator valves and set them on a much lower heat setting. Another way around it is have most of them on and then switch off rooms downstairs to heat the ones that were off.

    I would go with the esse 350 green switch:) Or the charnwood LA 50 IB. http://www.charnwood.com/range/stove/la-stove.aspx

    Stove Fan:)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 542 ✭✭✭gomamochi1


    Hi There, we are gutting our family home. I have ripped out the two downstairs fireplaces- One in Living/ kitchen and the other in the front room. unfortunately the back clay plate shattered in the living room one when I was dismantling the fireplace- stove 1.JPGstove 2.JPG

    Is it easy to fit a new fire place cay backing and fit this inset stove: http://www.dimplex.co.uk/assets/kb/operating_instructions/0/Westcott_Inset_WST4I_Instructions_Issue_1.pdf
    after. The manufacturer says that you dont need a flue liner but from reading these boards I reckon its bad practice not to put on in. Any suggestions most welcome?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    gomamochi1 wrote: »
    Hi There, we are gutting our family home. I have ripped out the two downstairs fireplaces- One in Living/ kitchen and the other in the front room. unfortunately the back clay plate shattered in the living room one when I was dismantling the fireplace- stove 1.JPGstove 2.JPG

    Is it easy to fit a new fire place cay backing and fit this inset stove: http://www.dimplex.co.uk/assets/kb/operating_instructions/0/Westcott_Inset_WST4I_Instructions_Issue_1.pdf
    after. The manufacturer says that you dont need a flue liner but from reading these boards I reckon its bad practice not to put on in. Any suggestions most welcome?

    Hi:) If you are only fitting the inset then it's not necessary to replace the fireback:) Just backfill all the voids with a mix of vermiculite and cement mix. Do it slightly moist. Make sure there is a lintel supporting the front of the chimneybreast over the fire opening. Fit a concrete one if there is no support. As your place looks like an older build? I would line the chimney unless clay lined and in good condition. Lining would be best though.

    If You can afford a woodwarm fireview 4kw or 6.5kw inset stove they are great. It would look very good, around £1000 for the 6.5kw version. The 6.5 has an optional boiler version available for either hot water or central heating.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCMmV4vszEs

    http://www.woodwarmstoves.co.uk/products/fireview-range/65kwinsetfireview.ashx

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WoQzV00edPI

    http://www.whatstove.co.uk/woodwarm-stoves/woodwarm-fireview-4kw-inset-stove.html

    They work very very well and are well made:).

    I have no ties to woodwarm but I would have one in my home:D

    Stove Fan:)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,105 ✭✭✭cocoman


    goat2 wrote: »
    i bought one of those eco fans, that you sit on top of the stove, it automatically works when the stove top get hot, it pushes the warm air around the room rather than it going to the ceiling, i already find the sitting room roasting, family saying it is too warm now

    Hi goat2,
    Just wondering where you purchased the ecofan? How much? I've seen them advertiser for €97-€135. From reading your post I'm assuming that it was money well spent.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 542 ✭✭✭gomamochi1


    Stove Fan wrote: »
    Hi:) If you are only fitting the inset then it's not necessary to replace the fireback:) Just backfill all the voids with a mix of vermiculite and cement mix. Do it slightly moist. Make sure there is a lintel supporting the front of the chimneybreast over the fire opening. Fit a concrete one if there is no support. As your place looks like an older build? I would line the chimney unless clay lined and in good condition. Lining would be best though.

    If You can afford a woodwarm fireview 4kw or 6.5kw inset stove they are great. It would look very good, around £1000 for the 6.5kw version. The 6.5 has an optional boiler version available for either hot water or central heating.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wCMmV4vszEs

    http://www.woodwarmstoves.co.uk/products/fireview-range/65kwinsetfireview.ashx

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WoQzV00edPI

    http://www.whatstove.co.uk/woodwarm-stoves/woodwarm-fireview-4kw-inset-stove.html

    They work very very well and are well made:).

    I have no ties to woodwarm but I would have one in my home:D

    Stove Fan:)

    Cheers Sove fan for the valuable info. We are doing a self build/ renovation trying to carry out as much work ourselves as possible! Could you recommend where to buy vermiculite as I never heard of it before. Also where online in Irl or the UK can we buy stainless steel flue liners as i undersand we need these for a multifuel stove. I thought that this was a relatively simple job prior to reading this forum!
    Cheers for the help!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,939 ✭✭✭goat2


    cocoman wrote: »
    Hi goat2,
    Just wondering where you purchased the ecofan? How much? I've seen them advertiser for €97-€135. From reading your post I'm assuming that it was money well spent.
    it is selling in, cork, portlaoise and tralee, it was nienty five euro, it is the smaller version, it is suitable for the small stove, they sell a bigger one for one hundred and forty five euro for bigger stove, the stove has to be standing proud of the heart, as you put it on the stove in such a way that the fan will catch the heat that goes up, stove has to be real hot to get the benefit from fan, they are also selling on ebay.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    gomamochi1 wrote: »
    Cheers Sove fan for the valuable info. We are doing a self build/ renovation trying to carry out as much work ourselves as possible! Could you recommend where to buy vermiculite as I never heard of it before. Also where online in Irl or the UK can we buy stainless steel flue liners as i undersand we need these for a multifuel stove. I thought that this was a relatively simple job prior to reading this forum!
    Cheers for the help!

    My localish builders merchant stocked vermiculite in bags and the flue pipes and liners. The only thing is with buying in Britain is the delivery charges, so I bought all the flue sundries from my builders providers.

    It may be worth doing a google search in your area and see if there is a stove shop who have these items or try your local builders merchants.

    You could also ask on here if anyone knows an online company here or can recommend a supplier:)

    Good luck with your project and keep warm:)

    Stove Fan:)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,100 ✭✭✭whitelightrider


    Stove fan, just wondering what it would cost to fit a stove? We have the pipes but not the connection to the chimney flue. The installer has given me a price of €170 to supply and fit any connectors needed and seal the stove and connections properly.

    Just wondering if its a good price?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3 dinkss


    Hi Stove Fan,
    Can u help me with multifuel stove?

    I have 11 rads in my house:
    2 x double rads= W: 1500 H: 500
    4x small rads = W: 500 H: 500
    3x single rads = W: 1100 H: 500
    1x single rad = W: 1200 H: 500
    1x single rad = W: 1300 H: 500

    I was looking at:
    Stratford EB12i HE Boiler Stove
    Esse 350GS Greenswitch Boiler Inset Stove
    Carraig Mor 20kw Boiler Stove

    I'm confused now coz I rang few places and few plumbers and they told me that Stratford EB12i HE Boiler Stove will be the best and strong enough to heat all rads and have hot water and some of them told me to go with Carraig Mor 20kw Boiler Stove! As far as I checked most of the people says that
    Stratford EB12i HE Boiler Stove is far better than Esse 350GS Greenswitch Boiler Inset Stove. Who is right? Which stove of those three is the best for my house? Which one will heat all rads and give hot water properly? I don't want to spend money and be disappointed:(
    I like Stratford EB12i HE Boiler Stove and would like to buy it but will it heat all rads? Will it be good for my house? Thanks in advance for help!


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  • Registered Users Posts: 40 doherta5


    Stove Fan wrote: »
    Hi:) We have in the past ripped out a 12 month old oil boiler and replaced it with a woodburning stove with back boiler. It was cheaper to run as where we lived in France wood was very cheap to buy. About a 50% saving.

    Here I think coal is definately cheaper than the wood but dirty and have to empty the ashes every day rather than once a week.

    We only have a villager boiler stove here in Ireland heating the rads and hot water. It's a good stove and it is cheaper to run than oil for us as we use it a lot. We spend 650 euros on coal last winter and used it over 7 months. 105sqm detatched older style bungalow.
    I would never go back to oil but for the more elderly generation the convenience of a flick of a switch I would consider linking the old oil boiler and new boiler stove together. The best of both then:)

    I would try powerflushing and chemical cleaning as if it works great but at the worst case your going to have to do something anyway if it's starting to not heat up efficiently. You could have the stove installed at the same time.

    I would be tempted if flushing/cleaning doesn't work is to re pipe anyway surface mounted with pipework dropped down from the loft. This is how my house is plumbed.

    Stove Fan:)

    Thanks for the info, SF. Tell me, does the housing on the newer pipework look ok on the skirting? I've thought about a total replumb of the gunbarrel but have always considered it a less neat solution that way (but have no intention of taking a kango to the floor).

    The parents are well used to a stove as we already have one in the kitchen which heats the cylinder in winter (with solar in the summer). It knocks out some good heat and the water is piping hot, but it would only be big enough to heat about 3 rads (or so I remember the lad they bought it off saying). If I were to put in a new stove I would have the option of taking out the current one in the kitchen and replacing it with one in the living room with a high enough KW output to heat all rads and the cylinder, or leaving the current one in place and having the two going.

    What would your (expert, by the look of your answers on this thread!) opinion be?


  • Registered Users Posts: 40 doherta5


    (I should say also that we have our own supply of timber, hence the handiness of burning firewood).


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,423 ✭✭✭Avns1s


    Stove fan, just wondering what it would cost to fit a stove? We have the pipes but not the connection to the chimney flue. The installer has given me a price of €170 to supply and fit any connectors needed and seal the stove and connections properly.

    Just wondering if its a good price?

    Price will depend on the stove and whether you exit the rear or the top.

    For a rear exit in 5" you're looking at about €120 to €130 for the flue adaptors.

    To get everything supplied and fitted for €170 is not too bad methinks!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    Stove fan, just wondering what it would cost to fit a stove? We have the pipes but not the connection to the chimney flue. The installer has given me a price of €170 to supply and fit any connectors needed and seal the stove and connections properly.

    Just wondering if its a good price?

    It sounds fine too me. If over 5kw don't forget the need for ventilation:)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    dinkss wrote: »
    Hi Stove Fan,
    Can u help me with multifuel stove?

    I have 11 rads in my house:
    2 x double rads= W: 1500 H: 500
    4x small rads = W: 500 H: 500
    3x single rads = W: 1100 H: 500
    1x single rad = W: 1200 H: 500
    1x single rad = W: 1300 H: 500

    I was looking at:
    Stratford EB12i HE Boiler Stove
    Esse 350GS Greenswitch Boiler Inset Stove
    Carraig Mor 20kw Boiler Stove

    I'm confused now coz I rang few places and few plumbers and they told me that Stratford EB12i HE Boiler Stove will be the best and strong enough to heat all rads and have hot water and some of them told me to go with Carraig Mor 20kw Boiler Stove! As far as I checked most of the people says that
    Stratford EB12i HE Boiler Stove is far better than Esse 350GS Greenswitch Boiler Inset Stove. Who is right? Which stove of those three is the best for my house? Which one will heat all rads and give hot water properly? I don't want to spend money and be disappointed:(
    I like Stratford EB12i HE Boiler Stove and would like to buy it but will it heat all rads? Will it be good for my house? Thanks in advance for help!

    Hi:) I have calculated that you need a 13.7kw back boiler stove. I have took the 4 small rads as doubles? you can deduct 1.7kw off if they are singles.

    What fuel are you using, as using only wood reduces the output.

    What is your room size as some give off high heat to the room.


    Aarrow stratford EB12HE
    Output to boiler 9kw using wood
    12kw using coal.
    Room output 5kw



    Esse 350 greenswitch.

    Output to boiler using wood 11.1kw.
    Output to boiler using coal Not quoted just higher output.
    Room output 3.6kw.



    Carraig Mor 20kw.
    Output to boiler 16kw. Guess this is on coal and less boiler output for wood
    Output to room 4KW.


    If you can state your room size and insulation levels and my rad query I can give you my opinion:) The only one that looks great for everything is the Carraig Mor 20kw. Reasonable output to room and larger boiler.

    They will all get the rads hottish but make sure you can use the 5kw room heat of the Stratford stove on full boiler output. I would say that Esse is better than Aarrow for quality but not sure for actual real life heating performance.

    The EB12 sounds quite good with the quicker heat up.

    The Carraig Mor looks good on the face of it but I know nothing about their quality:(

    Stove Fan:)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 542 ✭✭✭gomamochi1


    Hey how did you get on with the installation? Would you recommend a DIY job as I am fairly gandy or is it better to get reg installer to ensure no chimney fire and house insurance is not gone dodgy?


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3 dinkss


    Stove Fan wrote: »
    Hi:) I have calculated that you need a 13.7kw back boiler stove. I have took the 4 small rads as doubles? you can deduct 1.7kw off if they are singles.

    What fuel are you using, as using only wood reduces the output.

    What is your room size as some give off high heat to the room.


    Aarrow stratford EB12HE
    Output to boiler 9kw using wood
    12kw using coal.
    Room output 5kw



    Esse 350 greenswitch.

    Output to boiler using wood 11.1kw.
    Output to boiler using coal Not quoted just higher output.
    Room output 3.6kw.



    Carraig Mor 20kw.
    Output to boiler 16kw. Guess this is on coal and less boiler output for wood
    Output to room 4KW.


    If you can state your room size and insulation levels and my rad query I can give you my opinion:) The only one that looks great for everything is the Carraig Mor 20kw. Reasonable output to room and larger boiler.

    They will all get the rads hottish but make sure you can use the 5kw room heat of the Stratford stove on full boiler output. I would say that Esse is better than Aarrow for quality but not sure for actual real life heating performance.

    The EB12 sounds quite good with the quicker heat up.

    The Carraig Mor looks good on the face of it but I know nothing about their quality:(

    Stove Fan:)

    4 small rads are doubles, I'm using coal all the time, very rare using wood. My living room size is: 4.40m x 5.00m x 2.40m, kitchen is the same.
    House is 4 bed detached, rest of the rooms are: 3 bedrooms = 2.60m x 3.20m x 2.40m and masterbedroom = 3.80m x 4.40m x 2.40m.
    So which of the stoves will be the best? Stratford EB12i HE Boiler Inset Stove or Esse 350GS Greenswitch Boiler Inset Stove? I know that Carraig Mor 20kw Boiler Stove would be good for everything but I dont know if I will be able to get it quick enough. If you would have to chose between Stratford and Esse which one would be your choice and why? What u mean by using the 5kw room heat of the Stratford stove on full boiler output? How I can do that? I Have system link installed already for my new stove central heating.

    Just a small info:
    I had Warrior Olive 13 kw and it didnt heat at all my 2x double rads= W: 1500 H: 500 and 1x single rad = W: 1300 H: 500
    I calculated that I will need at least 16.4 KW stove. Am I wrong?

    I can see that u a professional so can u guarantee me that if I will get Stratford EB12i HE Boiler Inset Stove all my rads will be very hot?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    doherta5 wrote: »
    Thanks for the info, SF. Tell me, does the housing on the newer pipework look ok on the skirting? I've thought about a total replumb of the gunbarrel but have always considered it a less neat solution that way (but have no intention of taking a kango to the floor).

    The parents are well used to a stove as we already have one in the kitchen which heats the cylinder in winter (with solar in the summer). It knocks out some good heat and the water is piping hot, but it would only be big enough to heat about 3 rads (or so I remember the lad they bought it off saying). If I were to put in a new stove I would have the option of taking out the current one in the kitchen and replacing it with one in the living room with a high enough KW output to heat all rads and the cylinder, or leaving the current one in place and having the two going.

    What would your (expert, by the look of your answers on this thread!) opinion be?

    Hi:) Fitting the new pipework to the skirting board is an option:) But even then I would box it in for neatness, but if you dont mind pipes they can be painted to match the skirting boards. Don't forget you can only use copper piping for solid fuel heating as a solid fuel stove is a uncontrolled heat source and so could melt the plastic piping.

    If you are only having a boiler stove and no oil or other backup then linking the two is a good idea. The existing one as it is heating room and hot water and the new boiler stove in living room doing heating and hot water.

    As you have solar hot water you probably only have a twin coil cylinder. If this is the case and you get rid of the oil boiler totally you will have provision for a boiler stove but not able to fit two stoves unless you upgrade your cylinder to a triple coil or thermal store. If not wanting oil and dont want to replace the hot water cylinder your cheapest option is fitting just a new boiler stove.

    Complicated isn't it:)

    Stove Fan:)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    dinkss wrote: »
    4 small rads are doubles, I'm using coal all the time, very rare using wood. My living room size is: 4.40m x 5.00m x 2.40m, kitchen is the same.
    House is 4 bed detached, rest of the rooms are: 3 bedrooms = 2.60m x 3.20m x 2.40m and masterbedroom = 3.80m x 4.40m x 2.40m.
    So which of the stoves will be the best? Stratford EB12i HE Boiler Inset Stove or Esse 350GS Greenswitch Boiler Inset Stove? I know that Carraig Mor 20kw Boiler Stove would be good for everything but I dont know if I will be able to get it quick enough. If you would have to chose between Stratford and Esse which one would be your choice and why? What u mean by using the 5kw room heat of the Stratford stove on full boiler output? How I can do that? I Have system link installed already for my new stove central heating.

    Both will heat your house fine as I forgot that you had a radiator in your living room so this can be turned off so can use the extra heat to the other rads. The boiler stove would heat this room.

    My only concern with the aarrow is the 5kw room output as your living room requires around 3.77kw. As the house sounds more modern, so presumably good insulation I think the aarrow could over heat your living room. If this is the case then choose the esse.
    The 5kw heat output from the stove is the heat that will emit to the living room when the stove is at it's max boiler output, ie when burning flat out.

    If your insulation is very poor all over then it's the aarrow, as the extra room heat can convect to the other room with the door open:D

    Our insulation is good. We have a 4 inch cavity with 70mm aeroboard platinum insulation and 50mm kingspan lined interior and our room is 5.6m x 5.9m x 2.4. Our stove output is around 3kw and a small 1kw radiator and it heats the room very well. Most online output calculators quote 5.7kw!

    Just seen your other info. The warrior olive has a very small boiler and so would of only run a small nuber of rads. They quote 5-8 but this seems very optimistic. I can't quarantee anything but based on the information provided can only quide you. It's much better to have a home visit. But based on your info either would get the rads hot.




    Stove Fan:)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3 dinkss


    Stove Fan wrote: »
    Both will heat your house fine as I forgot that you had a radiator in your living room so this can be turned off so can use the extra heat to the other rads. The boiler stove would heat this room.

    My only concern with the aarrow is the 5kw room output as your living room requires around 3.77kw. As the house sounds more modern, so presumably good insulation I think the aarrow could over heat your living room. If this is the case then choose the esse.
    The 5kw heat output from the stove is the heat that will emit to the living room when the stove is at it's max boiler output, ie when burning flat out.

    If your insulation is very poor all over then it's the aarrow, as the extra room heat can convect to the other room with the door open:D

    Our insulation is good. We have a 4 inch cavity with 70mm aeroboard platinum insulation and 50mm kingspan lined interior and our room is 5.6m x 5.9m x 2.4. Our stove output is around 3kw and a small 1kw radiator and it heats the room very well. Most online output calculators quote 5.7kw!



    Stove Fan:)

    Thank you very much Stove Fan! That's a real help!
    I have another question - if I will go with Carraig Mor 20kw Boiler Stove will it be too strong or will be very good with good heat backup for more rads? Will the system overheat? Or can I go with that stove ahead? Coz I don't really want to have situation where lets say Stratford EB12i HE Boiler Inset Stove wont be able to heat all rads properly and the house will be cold:( House is only 3 years old with good insulation.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    dinkss wrote: »
    Thank you very much Stove Fan! That's a real help!
    I have another question - if I will go with Carraig Mor 20kw Boiler Stove will it be too strong or will be very good with good heat backup for more rads? Will the system overheat? Or can I go with that stove ahead? Coz I don't really want to have situation where lets say Stratford EB12i HE Boiler Inset Stove wont be able to heat all rads properly and the house will be cold:( House is only 3 years old with good insulation.

    Hi:) The carraig mor wouldn't be too strong as the boiler water temperature its thermostatically controled, ie the thermostat automatically controls the burn rate to the thermostat temperature setting.

    The room output is acceptable as your room needs 3.77kw to heat it so seems well suited:)

    The other boiler stoves would be working at their max heat outputs and so wouldn't have anything in reserve if you wanted to add more rads.

    I think the boru could be the best suited for your house but still think that given your house has good insulation then the aarrow or esse would heat it enough, but its best to have a bit too much heat than too little:)

    The boru would heat 2 extra 500x 1200single radiators:).

    See if you can find reviews on boru as I have never seen one before.



    Stove Fan:)


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,100 ✭✭✭whitelightrider


    Stove Fan wrote: »
    It sounds fine too me. If over 5kw don't forget the need for ventilation:)

    Its a Dovre 250 multifuel and its exiting out the rear. I can try and haggle the guy down to €150 and see how I get on. But with a baby on the way in 3 weeks Id be happy just to get it installed and working properly ;)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    Its a Dovre 250 multifuel and its exiting out the rear. I can try and haggle the guy down to €150 and see how I get on. But with a baby on the way in 3 weeks Id be happy just to get it installed and working properly ;)

    Hi the best way to install it is to fit a 45 degree bend on the rear flue exit and a short bit of pipe and then another 45 degree bend and a short vertical length and use a clay adapter to join to the clay liner.
    Any soot would then fall down the flue into the stove and would make the sweeping of the flue easy. Use no horizontal runs over 150mm otherwise it affects the draw and blocks up with soot.

    If the installer justs fits a steel plate over the fireplace opening and just flues through it without connecting into the clay liner any soot would fall into the void and become a fire hazard. This is not good and to clean the chimney and void the stove would have to be removed to clean the build up of soot in the void and to sweep the flue.

    The Dovre 250 is a 5kw stove so doesn't need any permanent ventilation, unless your house is very airtight. (Built to passive house specification) Your installer will advice.

    Please buy a carbon monoxide alarm and fit it in the same room as the stove. You cant be too careful:)

    All the best with the birth and new baby:)

    Stove Fan:)


  • Registered Users Posts: 52 ✭✭torres3011


    Reyman wrote: »
    Hi Torres,
    If you check back a couple of weeks you'll see that JMSE has installed the large Esse stove (350GS) recently - it might be a good idea to see how he's getting on with it, before you make a decision


    Nice one Rayman :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 52 ✭✭torres3011


    JMSE wrote: »
    Esse 350GS up and running in '83 3 bed semi with v good downstairs insulation and very poor upstairs insulation, and the result..............amazing.

    edit...
    <snip> Cant get over how good it is, am burning timber only, oh lots of nails too but they dont burn well. Its highly adjustable with the thermostatic 1-10 setting, and then the circular damper to override the thermoswitch is very effective. With the fire up and running you can practically control it like a gas fire, but maybe thats the way with all stoves. We never used the upstairs rads coz I'm a scab but we have the whole lot on now and the house is really warm. Ten out of ten, and as Ross O'C might say, 'fair focks in fairness'.

    Good stuff. :)

    Would you mind if i ask where you picked it up?

    Does it heat the room the stove is in well enough for you to take the rad that was in their out?

    My room's about 14 x 14 foot.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 6 I_am_an_angel


    Bought a stove with a crowd called Western Stoves in Cloonfad just outside Williamstown. Were not nice to deal with. They are unreliable and I would not recommend. Better value elsewhere


  • Registered Users Posts: 902 ✭✭✭JMSE


    torres3011 wrote: »
    Good stuff. :)

    Would you mind if i ask where you picked it up?

    Does it heat the room the stove is in well enough for you to take the rad that was in their out?

    My room's about 14 x 14 foot.

    Got it in Carlow in http://www.stovescentre.ie/ (Flame).
    They had them in stock 3 weeks ago. Wouldnt take the rad out, we turn the rad on and off to suit as the 10 yr old danfoss thermostatic valve on it isnt doing its job.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4 arran7


    We recently installed a Blacksmith Forge Boiler Stove. All is going well except sometimes , black water- which smells of soot- drips out of the ashpan area. It is baffling everyone that I have asked about it. Any suggestions?:confused:


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,654 ✭✭✭Noreen1


    Check your boiler, when the stove is unlit, but preferably still warm...


  • Registered Users Posts: 150 ✭✭ccmp


    Raimater entering at top of chimney pot and running down to pan??
    Is there a cowl installed?


  • Registered Users Posts: 52 ✭✭torres3011


    JMSE wrote: »
    Got it in Carlow in http://www.stovescentre.ie/ (Flame).
    They had them in stock 3 weeks ago. Wouldnt take the rad out, we turn the rad on and off to suit as the 10 yr old danfoss thermostatic valve on it isnt doing its job.

    Thanks allot,

    Will give them a buz. I'm down in Cork but will price around and see how i go.

    Thanks again


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4 arran7


    Noreen1 wrote: »
    Check your boiler, when the stove is unlit, but preferably still warm...
    Did that and it's sticky but theres no water:(


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,021 ✭✭✭Coles


    Discodog wrote: »
    I have seen some small Stanley's in the DIY sheds for around €400. My concern is to get a proper multifuel with a decent coal grate. I had a big stove with back boiler years ago & I managed to bend the grate bars :eek:
    I have a Stanley Oisin with back boiler and it's brilliant with coal. In 8 years I've replaced 2 grate bars and the door fire rope once. The rest is holding up absolutely perfect. The grate bars are only expensive if you buy them in Ireland, but they can be posted from the UK for about £5 each. If anyone has a similar priced source in Ireland post it up.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4 arran7


    ccmp wrote: »
    Raimater entering at top of chimney pot and running down to pan??
    Is there a cowl installed?
    We are using a stainless steel flue-specially designed for homes without a proper chimney and bought with the stove by their recomendations. There is a 'chinaman's hat' type of cowl on it, yes. Plumber has double checked everything and so has the electrician who wired the pump!! Also, so far this only seems to happen when the stove hasn't been lit for very long and I have to leave the house, so I close the dampers in case the fire gets out of control and theres nobody there to close the dampers down. :(


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,021 ✭✭✭Coles


    arran7 wrote: »
    We recently installed a Blacksmith Forge Boiler Stove. All is going well except sometimes , black water- which smells of soot- drips out of the ashpan area. It is baffling everyone that I have asked about it. Any suggestions?:confused:
    It could be rainwater, but it could also be a leak in the boiler or pipe connections. It shouldn't be too difficult to determine which it is and I'm inclined to think it's not rainwater particularly if the stove is in use every few days. The heat of the flue/chimney would probably evaporate off any rainwater.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4 arran7


    Coles wrote: »
    It could be rainwater, but it could also be a leak in the boiler or pipe connections. It shouldn't be too difficult to determine which it is and I'm inclined to think it's not rainwater particularly if the stove is in use every few days. The heat of the flue/chimney would probably evaporate off any rainwater.
    It only ever leaks when the stove is warm. Proving that it is leaking from the boiler isn't going to be easy. I have taken pictures to show the supplier/engineer from where I bought it, as some people said I should insist on a replacement as it sounds like it's faulty. Only bought it 4 weeks ago and it's been installed by a plumber for about 10 days now. Soooo fed up with all this!!!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,423 ✭✭✭Avns1s


    arran7 wrote: »
    It only ever leaks when the stove is warm. Proving that it is leaking from the boiler isn't going to be easy. I have taken pictures to show the supplier/engineer from where I bought it, as some people said I should insist on a replacement as it sounds like it's faulty. Only bought it 4 weeks ago and it's been installed by a plumber for about 10 days now. Soooo fed up with all this!!!

    What are you burning? Sounds to me like its condensation from whatever you are burning condensing on the inside of the flue when its cool. Also, if you have a sootbox or other means of getting to clean the flue, make sure it's sealed totally and not drawing in humid air that is condensing on the flue.


  • Registered Users Posts: 332 ✭✭Theimprover


    My gas fire stove cuts out after about an hr from been turned on and about 10-20 mins everytime after that. Anyone know what the problem is?


  • Registered Users Posts: 232 ✭✭kryan1


    I am proposing on putting in a Stove with back boiler as the open fire i have has a back boiler, But i was looking and i could buy a Fire door. Despite costs, what would the advantage be in putting in the fire door instead of the insert stove? Any advise would be appreciated.
    Many thanks
    Kevin


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,021 ✭✭✭Coles


    Avns1s wrote: »
    What are you burning? Sounds to me like its condensation from whatever you are burning condensing on the inside of the flue when its cool. Also, if you have a sootbox or other means of getting to clean the flue, make sure it's sealed totally and not drawing in humid air that is condensing on the flue.
    A plumber could do a pressure test on the boiler. Very straight forward and any problem would show up. I think the supplier/manufacturer should cover the cost if it shows up a fault, and it'll definitely show up a problem with the plumbing fittings if the plumber made a mistake.

    @avns1s, that sounds unlikely to cause enough run off to be so noticeable.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,654 ✭✭✭Noreen1


    arran7 wrote: »
    Did that and it's sticky but theres no water:(

    It shouldn't be sticky, unless your fuel is wet enough to cause a lot of condensation, and/or there's a problem with your flue.

    If it is a fault in your boiler, then a pressure test by a plumber should show it.
    Before you go to the expense of hiring a plumber, though, you could try lighting a fire with coal or peat briquettes. I mention them because it can be hard to judge moisture content in turf or logs. Unseasoned wood being burned can sometimes cause "sticky" residue inside your stove.

    Let your fire out, and while the boiler is still hot,(the hotter, the better, since any leak will expand with heat). check the same area again.
    No stickiness, and your boiler is probably fine.
    If there is, and you're certain your fuel was completely dry, you need to get it checked by a plumber.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,632 ✭✭✭heinbloed


    Arran7 wrote
    Also, so far this only seems to happen when the stove hasn't been lit for very long and I have to leave the house, so I close the dampers in case the fire gets out of control and theres nobody there to close the dampers down.

    concerning black residues leaching from the stove.

    What is described here is exactly how a creosote destillation works. You are creating hazardous material (the condensate) by an uncomplete combustion in combination with a cold surface. The fumes will condense along the surface of the flue gas pipe.
    Learn how to run a fire.
    Use dry fuel, let the fire get hot, always work with a surplus of oxigen. Let the fire burn out completly before closing any flaps.

    If the flue gases don't reach a minimum temperature at the outlet of the flue gas pipe (the top of the chimney) you are creating a health and safety risk.
    Note that this stuff is carcinogenic and that it poses a high fire risk material.

    Get the flue gas pipes cleaned.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 822 ✭✭✭Mutz


    Hi Stovefan,

    We want to replace our gas fire in the sitting room with a non boiler stove. The sitting room is 18' x 13'. The house has Gas central heating however we would like to install the stove for the evening in winter. The house is timber frame but there are blocks behind the fireplace and the chimney is flued with pots.

    We are choosing between two Stoves, namely the San Remo Insert Stove and the Firefox NON-Insert Stove. They are around the same price.

    I have attached three pics below of our fireplace and of the two stoves we are choosing from.

    Our questions to you is, which in your opinion would be our best option given our fireplace set up? Which one would give out the best heat How could we set up the Firefox stove if we were to choose it? (Would we have to close up the fireplace and have the stove sitting on the hearth?)

    We got quotes from Clane Fireplaces of:
    1. 680euro for the San Remo + installation (no mention of flue lining)
    2. 750euro for the Firefox + installation (no mention of flue lining)

    Has anyone had any dealings with Clane Fireplaces that they would like to share?

    All comments welcome :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    Mutz wrote: »
    Hi Stovefan,

    We want to replace our gas fire in the sitting room with a non boiler stove. The sitting room is 18' x 13'. The house has Gas central heating however we would like to install the stove for the evening in winter. The house is timber frame but there are blocks behind the fireplace and the chimney is flued with pots.

    We are choosing between two Stoves, namely the San Remo Insert Stove and the Firefox NON-Insert Stove. They are around the same price.

    I have attached three pics below of our fireplace and of the two stoves we are choosing from.

    Our questions to you is, which in your opinion would be our best option given our fireplace set up? Which one would give out the best heat How could we set up the Firefox stove if we were to choose it? (Would we have to close up the fireplace and have the stove sitting on the hearth?)

    We got quotes from Clane Fireplaces of:
    1. 680euro for the San Remo + installation (no mention of flue lining)
    2. 750euro for the Firefox + installation (no mention of flue lining)

    Has anyone had any dealings with Clane Fireplaces that they would like to share?

    All comments welcome :)

    Hi:) I would definately install an inset stove as if you install a freestanding stove it would have to sit on the hearth. The hearth would need to be extended forward to give 300mm in front of the stove. The other issue that will be a problem is the wooden surround being too near the freestanding stove.

    The inset stove would be much simpler to install and need the least alterations :)

    If your clay lined flue passes the smoke pellet test then the chimney won't need to be lined. Most inserts don't require a flue liner and just slot into the fireplace and backfilled with a vermiculite/sand/cement mix.

    Have a look at this insert
    http://www.stovesareus.co.uk/catalog/aarrow-ecoburn-5-inset-multifuel-woodburning-stove-p-6423.html

    Or my favourite if you can go the extra. Around £900 in the Uk or the enigma 3.5 £750. 3.9kw
    http://www.woodwarmstoves.co.uk/products/fireview-range/4kwinsetfireview.ashx

    http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=woodwarm+stoves&oq=woodwarm+stoves&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&gs_sm=s&gs_upl=31015l37073l0l39104l15l15l0l5l5l0l486l2220l3.2.3.0.2l10l0

    I calculated your room needs 4kw to heat it or less depending on the level of insulation.

    Stove Fan:)


  • Registered Users Posts: 332 ✭✭Theimprover


    My gas fire stove cuts out after about an hr from been turned on and about 10-20 mins everytime after that. Anyone know what the problem is?

    bump


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    bump

    I would say a safety device on the fire is cutting in to make it safe is a distinct possibility:eek:

    Do not use it and get an engineer in to check it over and service it. Get the chimney checked for a blockage and get it swept.

    Carbon monoxide is lethal.

    Stove Fan:)


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,297 ✭✭✭Reyman


    Stove Fan wrote: »
    Hi:) I would definately install an inset stove as if you install a freestanding stove it would have to sit on the hearth. The hearth would need to be extended forward to give 300mm in front of the stove. The other issue that will be a problem is the wooden surround being too near the freestanding stove.

    The inset stove would be much simpler to install and need the least alterations :)

    If your clay lined flue passes the smoke pellet test then the chimney won't need to be lined. Most inserts don't require a flue liner and just slot into the fireplace and backfilled with a vermiculite/sand/cement mix.

    Have a look at this insert
    http://www.stovesareus.co.uk/catalog/aarrow-ecoburn-5-inset-multifuel-woodburning-stove-p-6423.html

    Or my favourite if you can go the extra. Around £900 in the Uk or the enigma 3.5 £750. 3.9kw
    http://www.woodwarmstoves.co.uk/products/fireview-range/4kwinsetfireview.ashx

    http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=woodwarm+stoves&oq=woodwarm+stoves&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&gs_sm=s&gs_upl=31015l37073l0l39104l15l15l0l5l5l0l486l2220l3.2.3.0.2l10l0

    I calculated your room needs 4kw to heat it or less depending on the level of insulation.

    Stove Fan:)

    Hi Stovefan,

    Any idea where it might be possible to see those Fireview inset stoves around Dublin? They seem to be pretty unknown in most of the fireplace shops!
    Thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    Reyman wrote: »
    Hi Stovefan,

    Any idea where it might be possible to see those Fireview inset stoves around Dublin? They seem to be pretty unknown in most of the fireplace shops!
    Thanks

    Woodwarm have retailers here in Dublin, Galway and Co Cork. See; http://www.woodwarmstoves.co.uk/dealer-locator.ashx#top
    Glorneys
    42 Sundrive Road,
    Kimmage,
    Dublin 12
    Ireland

    Tel: 00353 1492 1355 Fax :- 00353 1492 1732


    You could view and may be cheaper then to import from the UK?

    Woodwarm are a very good brand up there with Clearview stoves for quality and performance. Well known in the UK and a premium quality product all hand built in the UK.

    See here for owners reviews for Woodwarm.
    http://www.whatstove.co.uk/reviews/stoves/stove-reviews/_c73.html

    Stove Fan:)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,307 ✭✭✭stephendevlin


    I would like to install a stove on the rear of the open fire in the kitchen

    Are there any issues with that type of instillation?

    We have Oil at the moment on both floors the cylinder tank is 750mm x 450mm

    I presume its a vented system can provide pics necessary.

    The hotpress is right above where I would like to install the stove.

    I know the pipework is the major issue is it only a matter of a hot and cold feed from the hotpress (directions wise)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,081 ✭✭✭Stove Fan


    I would like to install a stove on the rear of the open fire in the kitchen

    Are there any issues with that type of instillation?

    We have Oil at the moment on both floors the cylinder tank is 750mm x 450mm

    I presume its a vented system can provide pics necessary.

    The hotpress is right above where I would like to install the stove.

    I know the pipework is the major issue is it only a matter of a hot and cold feed from the hotpress (directions wise)

    Hi:) To use the chimney of the open fire in the kitchen this fireplace would need to be bricked/blocked up so the new stove uses this chimney. You can't have two fires sharing one chimney. The fires have to have seperate flues.

    The other sounds fine. The hot water cylinder will need to be a twin coil. One coil connected to existing boiler the other coil to the solid fuel stove.

    Any plumber will install it for you and link it to your open vented heating system safely. I would get some quotes.

    Stove Fan:)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 10 troutfeet


    hi I'm getting a freestanding multiburner installed and i was talking to the guy who is installing it earlier. I asked him about the single wall flue and how to stop the smoke escaping into the room. he says that you just stack the flues on top of each other. I find that hard to believe would there not be some sort of sealent required @ the joints? I don't really trust this guy but if what he says is true grand i just want to make sure.


    thanks in advance


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