STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

fred funk }{

Anyone got any recommendations for some plumbers with experience installing boiler stoves in the Wicklow area? Thanks.

MiskyBoyy

Hey there.

Haven't a clue what I'm to look at, or where to go in regards choosing a stove and someone to fit it. Hoping you guys can help here.

Based in the New Ross area of Wexford. I'm hoping to get a new boiler stove to heat a large open sittingroom as well as 6 radiators;(2 large radiators, 4 medium radiators). 1 of the large radiators is also in the sittingroom where the stove would be if this matters.

When I say open sittingroom, I mean the stairs to the upstairs landing is in the same room.

How many KW boiler stove would I need thereabouts and any recommendations where to get it?

Cheers.

eibhlin1106

Looks like a lot of us are in the same boat.

I'm fed up looking at stoves and getting different opinions from stockists so am looking for advice from people who already have what I'm looking for!

Our house is a bungalow with 14 single rads (and they are not big might I add!). Our sitting room (where the stove will be) measures 23x14 feet and 8 foot high.

I am particularly interested in the Henley Achill 21kw or the Brightfire (Yola) 17KW (my main preference) but my concern is that with the Brightfire Stove that it won't heat the room as the output is 3kw. I did the room calculation and it says that I need an output of approx. 4.6 KW but the room has 2 double radiators in it already so would 3kw to room suffice?

All recommendations welcome :-)

Many thanks.

Sanchez83

lovehathi wrote: »

Hi we have a riva 55 installed in dec 2014, i have noticed our glass becomes black every time we use, we can't see clean burn working properly, we use seasoned wood .

Secondly we can hear air noise from out side in the stove when its not lit . also too much smokes comes in when we refuel it. what should we do or is it normal.

It sounds like you have a down draft problem with your chimney.
An anti down fraught cowl or lining your chimney may help.

Sanchez83

MiskyBoyy wrote: »

Hey there.

Haven't a clue what I'm to look at, or where to go in regards choosing a stove and someone to fit it. Hoping you guys can help here.

Based in the New Ross area of Wexford. I'm hoping to get a new boiler stove to heat a large open sittingroom as well as 6 radiators;(2 large radiators, 4 medium radiators). 1 of the large radiators is also in the sittingroom where the stove would be if this matters.

When I say open sittingroom, I mean the stairs to the upstairs landing is in the same room.

How many KW boiler stove would I need thereabouts and any recommendations where to get it?

Cheers.

Hi,
If single rads you will need 9kw to water.The most a boiler stove will generally give to the room is 4/5kw so 14kw total.
If double rads you will need 14kw to water so 18/21kw total.
These are rough estimates.

MiskyBoyy

Sanchez83 wrote: »

Hi,
If single rads you will need 9kw to water.The most a boiler stove will generally give to the room is 4/5kw so 14kw total.
If double rads you will need 14kw to water so 18/21kw total.
These are rough estimates.

My livingroom is 18' long x 14' wide x 7.5' high & has 1 double radiator sized 160cm x 50cm.

Other radiators include:

Kitchen: 100cm x 50cm double
Office: 95cm x 43cm single
Bedroom 1: 80cm x 31cm single
Bedroom 2: 111cm x 31cm single
Bathroom: 62cm x 42cm single

A local stove shop recommended this as the best solution for me,

€1249 excluding fitting costs.

Would this be around the best option, is there any other stoves, insert or free standing that might be cheaper whilst just as good?

Sanchez83

MiskyBoyy wrote: »

My livingroom is 18' long x 14' wide x 7.5' high & has 1 double radiator sized 160cm x 50cm.

Other radiators include:

Kitchen: 100cm x 50cm double
Office: 95cm x 43cm single
Bedroom 1: 80cm x 31cm single
Bedroom 2: 111cm x 31cm single
Bathroom: 62cm x 42cm single

A local stove shop recommended this as the best solution for me,

€1249 excluding fitting costs.

Would this be around the best option, is there any other stoves, insert or free standing that might be cheaper whilst just as good?

Going by those measurements you need 11kw to the water and approx 4/5kw to the room.So a stove around 16kw total.
The Pierce is a decent stove.Hamco Morgan would be a decent one two.Most popular in that size would be a Henley Achill 17.
Others to consider would be a Straftford EB12 and Boru Chieftan.

fred funk }{

Anyone else having trouble trying to get some quotes for installing a boiler stove?

Anyone got any recommendations?

fro9etb8j5qsl2

Just had a fella out to see about installing a freestanding room heater stove, he said that first off he would need to do a camera inspection which will cost €150. He said that provided it's a straightforward job, it would be €150 per square meter for labour and parts and around €400 for the stove itself. And then an extra €200 for the heat preotective rendering and plaster over the existing chimney breast. So thats €1950 all in. Is that an ok price? Seems a bit expensive to me.

Edit to add: He is one of only a few certified and registered installers in my area. He says a lot of his jobs involve taking out and repairing stoves that have not been put in properly and have caused damage or problems as a result.

Sanchez83

Musa CoolS Gunrunner wrote: »

Just had a fella out to see about installing a freestanding room heater stove, he said that first off he would need to do a camera inspection which will cost €150. He said that provided it's a straightforward job, it would be €150 per square meter for labour and parts and around €400 for the stove itself. And then an extra €200 for the heat preotective rendering and plaster over the existing chimney breast. So thats €1950 all in. Is that an ok price? Seems a bit expensive to me.

Edit to add: He is one of only a few certified and registered installers in my area. He says a lot of his jobs involve taking out and repairing stoves that have not been put in properly and have caused damage or problems as a result.

Rendering and plastering is reasonable.
Everything else is over priced.
But good fitters are in huge demand at this time of year so they can charge more.
It's why people should really fit a stove during the summer rather than the winter.

GS2K

Hi, looking for advice. I am planning on putting in an inset stove but the opening is fairly shallow only 27cm from the front to the concrete blocks at the back of the fire.
I have found a stove, the Henley Apollo that is 27cm in depth but was wondering if you need to leave a gap at the back of the stove so it's not up against the concrete.
If so, how much of a gap is needed?

Sanchez83

GS2K wrote: »

Hi, looking for advice. I am planning on putting in an inset stove but the opening is fairly shallow only 27cm from the front to the concrete blocks at the back of the fire.
I have found a stove, the Henley Apollo that is 27cm in depth but was wondering if you need to leave a gap at the back of the stove so it's not up against the concrete.
If so, how much of a gap is needed?

The Apollo does not require an air gap as its a convection stove.
The air circulates between the back of the stove and the convection box.
As there is no room to insulate you may lose a small portion of heat to the wall from conduction.

Calahonda52

Looking for suppliers of the "fire resistant silicon sealer" that I hear some guys talk about or is there any such thing.
Am in North Co Dublin.
Thanks, as always

SeanMacEoin

Hi Guys,
Hope im not hijacking someone elses thread here but seems like theres a bit of everything on this one.
Im looking for some advice on woodburning stoves. I plan to install one in my sunroom (otherwise known as the fridge during winter). I'm looking at the Contura 850 convection stove. Its expensive so would value any feedback or if you have any model of contura like to hear what you think of it.
Thanks a mil.
Sean

GS2K

I am Planning on getting an inset stove and a liscannor stone slab for a hearth at the front.
My question is, is the rear of inset stoves on legs or is the hearth supposed to go to the back of the opening in the fireplace?
The front of the stove will be resting on the slab but i can't find any slabs that extend back into the fireplace.

Or what do people put in the back of the fireplace so that the stove will sit level?

The stove i am going for is the Henley Apollo as i have a shallow depth of 270mm.

Thanks

cocoman

GS2K wrote: »

I am Planning on getting an inset stove and a liscannor stone slab for a hearth at the front.
My question is, is the rear of inset stoves on legs or is the hearth supposed to go to the back of the opening in the fireplace?
The front of the stove will be resting on the slab but i can't find any slabs that extend back into the fireplace.

Or what do people put in the back of the fireplace so that the stove will sit level?

The stove i am going for is the Henley Apollo as i have a shallow depth of 270mm.

Thanks

Mix a bit of concrete and fill it to the level of the stone hearth.

bazbrady

Just a few questions,hope yous can help.im looking at installing a charnwood island room heater only stove in my sitting room.the only concern i have is i want to recess it so it looks neater and meant to be there instead of in front of the existing fireplace thats currently there,what im wondering is do you loose much heat(kw figure?) from recessing a stove rather than leaving it in front of the fire.i imagine i wont have a huge amount of room around the sides when i pull out the existing fireplace,i know theres regs regarding 30cm or more,but my question is more do you loose considerable heat,i would also be installing one of those fans you place on top of the stove so that should help.

shugy

Another one here looking information on a stove. I have a house that has 15 rads and its heated by a kerosene burner and an open fire in living room. My house is plumed in hep with push fittings apart from 1 m away from boiler and hot press cylinder.

What I'm basically wanting to know is how much would a decent stove be and I think I'll need a double coil cylinder as well. The cylinder is about 17m of pipe run away from the stove (35-40 meters of copper pipe return and flow) .

I'm wanting a stove that'll burn coal,turf and timber.

So in a nutshell, can someone give me a rough price that I'll need to spend on a decent stove and other materials needed. I've searched the net and there's just to much info to take it so thought I'd ask here where people would know what their talking about.

fro9etb8j5qsl2

Looking for recommendations for someone in Limerick to fit a freestanding stove? We've had awful trouble trying to find someone. One fella left us down 2 nights in a row to come and size the job up. Another told us we would be waiting 14 weeks. Third fella called to the house within 20 minutes of me ringing him and told me I'd need a cctv survey done before he could give a quote. He booked me in for the next day, spent 20 minutes with a camera up my chimney, charged me €150 and told me he would get back to me the nex day with a quote before riding into the sunset, never to be seen or heard from again :mad:

We have ordered all the materials ourselves and the only thing putting my OH off doing it himself is the amount of money he would have to fork out on a ladder. So any recommendations of good honest workers would be greatly appreciated. Pm me with any names

VandC

Sorry if this has been asked somewhere before but this sticky is huge! We got a multi fuel insert stove and marble fireplace installed in May and have just got around to lighting it now. A fire had never been lit in the house before (circa 18yo) but we did get chimney checked by 2 different ppl to make sure that the chimney was for real fires just not gas. Initially there was an open fire and wooden/tile fireplace with marble hearth.

So we started with small fires and we have started to make them bigger and lit for a few hours max so far.

Today I notice that the paint on the chimney breast (to the side of the fireplace, not above where chimney is) has started to crack. Loads of little hairline cracks no more than a cm long, some paint has started to discolour (minimal but from light grey to darker) and then I noticed a sticky substance in two areas (I def didn't spray anything on the wall) that I don't recall being there yesterday. Saturday evening was the last night we lit a fire.

Is this the sign of a bigger problem? Or is it all part of the "breaking in"?

Mods if you feel this would be best placed elsewhere please move.

BarryD

I guess the basic questions might be; when was the house built and if relatively modern, were clay liners installed etc. Why was a fire 'never lit' in this chimney before? And are you sure? Did you check it for soot/ tarry deposits etc? Who installed the stove and what assurances did they give you?

If all is in order, one would assume that there is a drying out process at play and that is causing the plaster to dry and paint to crack. If however, a 'sticky substance' is appearing - that might well mean that there is no liner and that the mortar between the blocks/ brick/ stonework is a bit skimpy. Is there a smell off the chimney in the room? You might well need to get someone in to take a closer look at it, particularly if you suspect there is leakage from the chimney to the interior of the house. My two cents

MiskyBoyy

Please make sure you have a carbon monoxide alarm fitted somewhere in the room. Goes for everyone with a stove or fire.

VandC

I am trying to respond to your posts but it won't let me!! Either via the app or webpage!!! Grrr. Bet it will let this up!

VandC

MiskyBoyy wrote:

Please make sure you have a carbon monoxide alarm fitted somewhere in the room. Goes for everyone with a stove or fire.

Yep have one installed in the room where the stove is

VandC

1 of 2

BarryD: House built 97 so I would consider relatively modern. But don't know re clay liners - how would that be checked?

Both people who were out to inspect the chimney both said that it had never been used. (They were from different companies that do these installations). They commented on how "clean" the chimney was so guessing they checked for soot and tar. And I had my suspicions from the look of the open fire. It just didn't look used. And the pieces of it didnt look new so it wasn't a case of them being replaced. If that makes sense. God only knows why it wasn't lit before. Neighbour has open fire so chimneys were def built for fires. Or is that a silly assumption?

I won't name companies but it was done by a longstanding company. I suppose I could ring them. But are there particular types of assurances I should have gotten?

VandC

2 of 2
What does a chimney smell like? There was a plastic type smell when we lit the fire which seems to be lessening which I thought was the paint curing on the stove given that its just had it's first few lightings.

The leak I would best describe as like coke. You know if you spill some on a table say and leave it a couple of hours? Could a leak take a few days to appear (fire lit sat night only appearing today).

Should I get the same crowd out again to check or someone else for independent opinion?

If no liner is it a big job? I would have thought that after 18 years that all the drying out would be done. Or is it a case of the extra heat further dries it out?

Sorry for all the (stupid) questions.

TIA

BarryD

Hi VandC, I can only comment of what chimneys I've seen in houses we've lived in. If build was 1997, the chimney should be properly lined with fireclay liners (a column of short pipes that slot into each other) - from what I recall these fit inside the rectangle of blockwork comprising the rising chimney and the space between the liner and block is backfilled to insulate and support the liner. Once the smoke enters this column it shouldn't leak back to the inside unless there is a crack or deficiency of some sort. I presume your stoves flue is connected up into the chimney proper?

Chimneys get damp, particularly over summer/ early autumn months when fires are not lit. Partic if there is no raincowl on the chimney pot - rain comes down and is absorbed into the chimney. So you might get a slightly heavy damp smell at first but after chimney is used for a week or so this dissipates.

The leak you describe sounds like a tarry substance, you can get this from burning firewood etc. But it shouldn't be appearing through your wall, unless there is a way through? Crack? Stove flue pipe not connected properly? Sometimes plaster gets blotches when drying etc., but you'd think this should have sorted itself out over the past 15 years or so.

Does the chimney get particularly warm to touch where the paint is flaking/ substance appearing?

Go get someone to look at it.

VandC

Thanks barryd. Not sure if it gets warm where the chimney is. I'll check that out next time I light it. I'm hoping where the sticky stuff is has nothing to do with chimney maybe just coincidental and drying up, maybe something to do with installation of fireplace. Will have to get It checked. Ugh, hope it doesn't turn out to be big and expensive. :-/ thanks for your help

The lips

Hi guys looking for a little help here.

I had a Stanley Cara dry stove fitted this week.

The clay liners were cleaned and inspected prior to installation, the rotating brush went all the way to the top, hitting the crow stopper cone.

The provided reducer and piping was used to connect it to the existing chimney.

It is like there is no draw on the chimney now, the stove fills with smoke and starts to pour out the primary air vent and everywhere else.

We had great success with the open fire here the last two winters so I was confident of a great draw.

The room has a vent and stove does the same with both windows open.

Could a back draught suddenly appear? There is no change in exterior of house or neighbours, no high trees etc

bootser

The lips wrote:

The provided reducer and piping was used to connect it to the existing chimney.

The lips wrote:

The clay liners were cleaned and inspected prior to installation, the rotating brush went all the way to the top, hitting the crow stopper cone.

The lips wrote:

I had a Stanley Cara dry stove fitted this week.

The lips wrote:

Hi guys looking for a little help here.

The lips wrote:

It is like there is no draw on the chimney now, the stove fills with smoke and starts to pour out the primary air vent and everywhere else.

The lips wrote:

We had great success with the open fire here the last two winters so I was confident of a great draw.

The lips wrote:

The room has a vent and stove does the same with both windows open.

The lips wrote:

Could a back draught suddenly appear? There is no change in exterior of house or neighbours, no high trees etc

Hi I have a cara fitted bout 3 years, worked brilliant till last year, went to light it on a cold morning and something fairly similar to your problem happened. Didn't have any coal on so closed vents and let it burn out then retried, same result! Got installer out to look at it, turned out that "snots of mortar" had fallen down from between the liners and partially covered the flue outlet! Easily fixed with a chimney clean. This may not b ur prob but don't panic get ur installer to look at it. Cara is a mighty stove only regret i have is not getting a boiler type!

BarryD

The lips wrote: »

It is like there is no draw on the chimney now, the stove fills with smoke and starts to pour out the primary air vent and everywhere else.

We had great success with the open fire here the last two winters so I was confident of a great draw.

Ditto - try lighting the stove and look at the chimney from the outside. Is any smoke emerging? If there is, is there more smoke in the room than coming out the chimney? Possible blockage in chimney left accidentally by cleaners or installers etc.

If the problem only occurs when the stove is being lit and disappears when it's burning properly, then maybe suspect a draw or downdraft problem.

chubbs2011

Hi all, just Looking for some advice. I'm probably being a bit paranoid but here goes.

I have a cara insert non boiler 2 years old. I bought a ton of stove coal which is a mixture of coal and ovoids not realising it isn't smokeless. It's really dirty and the smoke coming out of the chimney which it's lit or a fresh load is put on the fire is unreal. I have played around with the airflow settings and have figured out how to get it just right so after the initial 'burst' of flames when starting and putting on fresh coal I can get it to a nice simmer and the glass becomes clear. However I'm worried that using this smokey stuff will a) damage my stove and b) set my chimney on fire. We had a chimney fire a few years ago just before putting in the stove and had the chimney professionally cleaned a few weeks ago so maybe I'm just a little paranoid. Also I was cleaning the mantle piece this morning and the chimney breast is still hot even though the last load of load was put on about 7 last night. Is this normal? Thanks in advance

bombs away

Had a guy in to take a look at our fireplace with the intention of replacing our old gas fire with a new free-standing stove (Stanley Tara) and a new fireplace and alcove for it. Unfortunately our fireplace is too small and the flue gatherer would need to be raised about 10 inches to accommodate it which apparently is quite a large and expensive job. He suggested that if I knew any builders that could do it cheaper then try and get them.

Anyone recommend a builder or fireplace installer that would do this for a good price?

cocoman

bombs away wrote: »

Had a guy in to take a look at our fireplace with the intention of replacing our old gas fire with a new free-standing stove (Stanley Tara) and a new fireplace and alcove for it. Unfortunately our fireplace is too small and the flue gatherer would need to be raised about 10 inches to accommodate it which apparently is quite a large and expensive job. He suggested that if I knew any builders that could do it cheaper then try and get them.

Anyone recommend a builder or fireplace installer that would do this for a good price?

Would it work by using the rear flue outlet from the stove? Ideally a free standing stove shouldn't be in an alcove. Would work much better if out in the open.
I'd say raising the gather would be a fairly big (and messy) job .

bombs away

cocoman wrote: »

Would it work by using the rear flue outlet from the stove? Ideally a free standing stove shouldn't be in an alcove. Would work much better if out in the open.
I'd say raising the gather would be a fairly big (and messy) job .

Hi coco man,

http://www.colwynfireplacecentre.com/images/products-large/Stokesay-chamber-fireplace-limestone.jpg

This was kinda what I had in mind, the stove would probably be only half way in as opposed to the full way. The flue gatherer would need to be lifted and repositioned to accommodate it though. I was quoted 1000 euro just to do that alone. Does this seem reasonable?

BarryD

bombs away wrote: »

Hi coco man,

http://www.colwynfireplacecentre.com/images/products-large/Stokesay-chamber-fireplace-limestone.jpg

This was kinda what I had in mind, the stove would probably be only half way in as opposed to the full way. The flue gatherer would need to be lifted and repositioned to accommodate it though. I was quoted 1000 euro just to do that alone. Does this seem reasonable?

We have a little Stanley stove like that - think they used to call it the Shire? Great heat off it and economical on fuel.

Cocoman is suggesting that you can use the rear flue connection as opposed to the top connector, I think. The flue exits at the back, goes through a right angle bend and up to connect to the chimney proper. This might mean you can fit it in existing space but it will sit more out into the room as the flue pipework at rear takes up a little space. Might not be as aesthetic to you and perhaps more of a hazard in terms of children falling against it but it would also throw more heat into the room proper.

€1000 doesn't sound unreasonable to me for the work you describe, if it's done properly. Remember a chimney is constructed from the ground up and there is weight bearing down, so to remove and raise the flue gatherer would require some temporary propping etc., as far as I'd know.

GatsbyGal

Would anyone be able to tell me if it's standard practice to pull out the entire fireplace to put in an insert stove which will fit perfectly into the existing fireplace. I had a stove fitter at my house recently who said this would need to be done to install the stove. Thanks.

pippip

Does the current fireplace have a back boiler?

GatsbyGal

pippip wrote: »

Does the current fireplace have a back boiler?

Hi. No it doesn't. It is a period fireplace so it has a row of tiles along the side but I didn't think that would make any difference to installing it.

lovehathi

hi everyone we have riva55 inset, but why does airwash control makes my glass back every time we use seasoned wood, before next use we have clean again. when we close the door after 15 min of starting fire we can see smoke build up and it swirls back on glass from top, so two side of glass are black and centre part is little less black. i have seen people in shop there glass always clean while burning??

lovehathi

how much to expect to pay for insulating chimney with vermiculite its a double story building, and we have flue liner already in place.

also any recommendation for good hetas or any good stove installer to check our installation of riva 55 , dublin 12 area

thanks

pippip

lovehathi wrote: »

hi everyone we have riva55 inset, but why does airwash control makes my glass back every time we use seasoned wood, before next use we have clean again. when we close the door after 15 min of starting fire we can see smoke build up and it swirls back on glass from top, so two side of glass are black and centre part is little less black. i have seen people in shop there glass always clean while burning??

The air wash only works if the top vent is open, the more the better. The glass will always go black if this is ever closed. If you have it open and it's still happening then it might be blocked.

pippip

GatsbyGal wrote: »

Hi. No it doesn't. It is a period fireplace so it has a row of tiles along the side but I didn't think that would make any difference to installing it.

How snug a fit is it? At the top would there be room to line up the flue with the chimney without removing anything?

If you really feel it shouldn't the original guy was making too much work just get a second opinion. Maybe post a few photos here.

GatsbyGal

pippip wrote: »

How snug a fit is it? At the top would there be room to line up the flue with the chimney without removing anything?

If you really feel it shouldn't the original guy was making too much work just get a second opinion. Maybe post a few photos here.

I think there would be room but I'm not for certain. There is a hood that will have to go is all I know. Here is a picture of it.

Vote 4 Pedro

Finally made a decision on the stove and got an installer booked.
We went for the Dru 55MF in the end, the installer was highly recommended so I'm hoping for a pain free job, 2 weeks until he can do it but I'm so relived the searching is over.
Really looking forward to this now and been warm this winter for the first time in years.

Cass007

Hi all,

Just wondering if anyone can recommend a boiler stove that will heat a living room (approx. 5kw required) and 10 rads totalling approx. 14kw?

gotthebug

New to the world of stove so sorry for probably a stupid question. Have a solid fuel stove with a backboiler. Have it lighting the last few nights and it's burning very hot. There is a knob on the side numbered 1-8 and it is turned to eight just wondering would adjusting this know on the side turn down the air flow the vent at the front is closed thanks for any help

BarryD

gotthebug wrote: »

New to the world of stove so sorry for probably a stupid question. Have a solid fuel stove with a backboiler. Have it lighting the last few nights and it's burning very hot. There is a knob on the side numbered 1-8 and it is turned to eight just wondering would adjusting this know on the side turn down the air flow the vent at the front is closed thanks for any help

Might help if you say what stove model it is! But more than likely, the knob numbered 1-8 controls a damper that lets more or less air in. More air flow, more combustion, more heat, more fuel used etc.

techie

We have one of these in our garage and are looking to put a value on it.
It has all the pieces there for it, but it needs to be cleaned up.

The previous residents in our house said they used it until we moved in 11 years ago.

Triboro

Just fitted the flue liner adapter to reduce 8 inch flue in chimney down to 6 inch...Is it ok to use a flexi flue to connect directly to back of stove and then onto the 6 inch flue adapter in chimney? Thanks!