STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

Sanchez83

Triboro wrote: »

Just fitted the flue liner adapter to reduce 8 inch flue in chimney down to 6 inch...Is it ok to use a flexi flue to connect directly to back of stove and then onto the 6 inch flue adapter in chimney? Thanks!

No and if you have to ask,100% no.

Sanchez83

techie wrote: »

We have one of these in our garage and are looking to put a value on it.
It has all the pieces there for it, but it needs to be cleaned up.

The previous residents in our house said they used it until we moved in 11 years ago.

To be honest it has very little value.
Think you would find it hard to sell.

Triboro

Sanchez83 wrote: »

No and if you have to ask,100% no.

Ok thanks, what would be the best method for connecting the two?

Wegian

Good people,

I have a similar issue to the poster with the Hamco stove filling the room with smoke. It is a 4kW stove but unlike the previous poster it is connected via right angle flue pipe to the existing chimney.

We have issues trying to light the stove and then it will fill the room with smoke with smoke, billowing out when you open the door. I have removed the stove and swept the chimney but to no avail. It is pumping a certain amount of smoke out through the chimney but there doesnt seem to be sufficient draw to easily light and remove all smoke.

On reason could be that there is not external wall vent in the room but I am hesitant to drill a hole in the wall without advise from someone informed.

Any ideas / recommendations for someone in the Galway area who could have a look?

BarryD

Wegian wrote: »

Good people,

I have a similar issue to the poster with the Hamco stove filling the room with smoke. It is a 4kW stove but unlike the previous poster it is connected via right angle flue pipe to the existing chimney.

We have issues trying to light the stove and then it will fill the room with smoke with smoke, billowing out when you open the door. I have removed the stove and swept the chimney but to no avail. It is pumping a certain amount of smoke out through the chimney but there doesnt seem to be sufficient draw to easily light and remove all smoke.

On reason could be that there is not external wall vent in the room but I am hesitant to drill a hole in the wall without advise from someone informed.

Any ideas / recommendations for someone in the Galway area who could have a look?

Does it draw ok when the stove is running? Does this happen in all weather? Maybe downdraft from wind? Or cold air being sucked into the building down the chimney. If issue is just when lighting and partic in cold weather, you could try opening a nearby window. If the problem is cold air sinking down the chimney, then the open window or door should negate that substantially. Once the stove is burning and hot air rising, then close window/ door etc.

Wegian

BarryD wrote: »

Does it draw ok when the stove is running? Does this happen in all weather? Maybe downdraft from wind? Or cold air being sucked into the building down the chimney. If issue is just when lighting and partic in cold weather, you could try opening a nearby window. If the problem is cold air sinking down the chimney, then the open window or door should negate that substantially. Once the stove is burning and hot air rising, then close window/ door etc.

Thanks for the reply. It doesnt draw that well as if it did then we wouldnt have it smoking up the room and billowing out when we open the door. I have opened the window in the past when lighting and it hasnt helped an awful lot. The main issue seems to be lack of draw both lighting and during the burn....thoughts?

deandean

Wegian wrote: »

Thanks for the reply. It doesnt draw that well as if it did then we wouldnt have it smoking up the room and billowing out when we open the door. I have opened the window in the past when lighting and it hasnt helped an awful lot. The main issue seems to be lack of draw both lighting and during the burn....thoughts?

Have you removed the baffle(s) in the top of the stove and given them a good clean?

pippip

Not having an open vent in the room would definitely be hampering it.

What sort of cowl have you? You can get cowls to help get the perfect conditions.

Wegian

deandean wrote: »

Have you removed the baffle(s) in the top of the stove and given them a good clean?

No, will do, thanks for the suggestion.

pippip wrote: »

Not having an open vent in the room would definitely be hampering it.

What sort of cowl have you? You can get cowls to help get the perfect conditions.

No cowl in place, would this help create a draw?

pippip

They are expensive but they are designed to fix certain problems.

https://topcap.ie/chimney-cowls/

Robbie.G

Wegian wrote: »

No, will do, thanks for the suggestion.



No cowl in place, would this help create a draw?

Look here it will gib you some tips

http://www.coaladvisoryservice.com/resources/files/yourguidetocuringchimneytroubles_low_res.pdf

Ruby2Shoes

Could someone explain the difference between an Insert stove and a Cassette stove please? I can't find an explanation online. Thanks

mick23

hi folks , just looking for recommendations please.

looking for a 5-7 kw cassette/insert type multi fuel stove.

there are so many out there , just looking for any advice/recommendation please..

thanks

BarryD

pippip wrote: »

Not having an open vent in the room would definitely be hampering it.

What sort of cowl have you? You can get cowls to help get the perfect conditions.

Well, opening a window is like having a large (temporary) vent. If that doesn't help, you could rule that as less an issue.

What height is the house - I suspect single storey? Is the chimney outlet excessively in the lee of other part of the building or tall trees etc. I think there are a number of factors that give poor chimney performance. Essentially a chimney is simple enough, the air in the house is normally warmer than it is outside. This warmer air is drawn in at the base of the chimney and as heat rises, there is an upflow up the chimney, pulling in more air at the base. Taller the chimney, better the pull. If you put your hand into the cold stove before lighting and feel a draft on the back of your hand, coming down the chimney, this flow is obviously reversed and you must defeat this by providing an alternative flow into the room, hence window or door. Once fire established, then hot air from combustion should cause chimney to function. Maybe it's partially blocked somewhere and/or has a series of bends in it, which might not help? Or not tall enough? Or some downdraft is being caused by nearby hedges/ building? Finally and stating the obvious, is there enough air going into the stove when your lighting/ running it. Obviously the fuel needs air coming in in order to allow combustion - usually more when you're lighting and getting it going.

Wegian

BarryD wrote: »

Well, opening a window is like having a large (temporary) vent. If that doesn't help, you could rule that as less an issue.

What height is the house - I suspect single storey? Is the chimney outlet excessively in the lee of other part of the building or tall trees etc. I think there are a number of factors that give poor chimney performance. Essentially a chimney is simple enough, the air in the house is normally warmer than it is outside. This warmer air is drawn in at the base of the chimney and as heat rises, there is an upflow up the chimney, pulling in more air at the base. Taller the chimney, better the pull. If you put your hand into the cold stove before lighting and feel a draft on the back of your hand, coming down the chimney, this flow is obviously reversed and you must defeat this by providing an alternative flow into the room, hence window or door. Once fire established, then hot air from combustion should cause chimney to function. Maybe it's partially blocked somewhere and/or has a series of bends in it, which might not help? Or not tall enough? Or some downdraft is being caused by nearby hedges/ building? Finally and stating the obvious, is there enough air going into the stove when your lighting/ running it. Obviously the fuel needs air coming in in order to allow combustion - usually more when you're lighting and getting it going.

Thanks for the comprehensive response. I will check for draft when unlit but I have never noticed a problem when lighting with a draft downwards. It is a 2 storey, simple straight chimney, with the stove connected via a right angle flue. There are no high trees or hedges nearby and it is in a row of identical houses, approx 200m from a inlet off Galway Bay. The stove vent is usually open to allow a burn in order to try create that draw upwards but the problem persists, unfortunately.

BarryD

Wegian wrote: »

Thanks for the comprehensive response. I will check for draft when unlit but I have never noticed a problem when lighting with a draft downwards. It is a 2 storey, simple straight chimney, with the stove connected via a right angle flue. There are no high trees or hedges nearby and it is in a row of identical houses, approx 200m from a inlet off Galway Bay. The stove vent is usually open to allow a burn in order to try create that draw upwards but the problem persists, unfortunately.

You'd think that a 2 storey chimney as you describe should draw well enough. A thought - you mention you have neighbours with similar houses, a terrace? Have you talked to them and enquired after their chimneys and see if they've any problems or have taken any particular remedies. If they don't and haven't, then I guess suspect some particular defect in yours?? Worth investigating before you go any further, if you haven't done so already.

Bebop

I have a wood burner and I have been trying some of the Eco logs sold at Woodies DIY and also Aldi, they burn well but produce a lot of ash, has anybody any suggestions? its a built-in glass front stove and does not have a fire grate,

pippip

Bebop wrote: »

I have a wood burner and I have been trying some of the Eco logs sold at Woodies DIY and also Aldi, they burn well but produce a lot of ash, has anybody any suggestions? its a built-in glass front stove and does not have a fire grate,

I think that is just how they are. Any review I've read, along with when I tried them myself, all say how you are left with loads of ash. Don't think there's anything you're doing wrong.

j timber

I have a new stanley lismore non boiler stove in the sitting room. The problem is the unbearable smell which is coming from stove when lit. It has been lit six times now increasing the size of the fire each time. I know the enamel paint has to cure but we have to open all windows each time its lit. Has anyone had the same experience and if so how long does it last?
I rang stanley on the issue and was asked what fire cement was used..they said the one in the tube could cause smells if its silicone based.

blackbox

If it is silicone sealant causing the smell it will have a distinctive smell of vinegar. If it doesn't smell of vinegar, the smell is from something else.

major deegan

Have a similar problem myself, thinking it might be the tar deposits melting and running down stove fluepipe, so as the chimney is sealed with flue adapter/ reducer the smell is coming into the room, ... Stinks!!

j timber

The fire cement used was evo stik 1200 and as far as i can find out its not silicone based.
The flue is new and i have a reducer from 8 to 6 inch.
I hope its just the "new" smell and not something else

maynooth_rules

Strange question this but stick with me. In our living room we have a fireplace for a gasfire and a very small chimney breast for said gas fire. This breast was not completed and doesn't come out toe roof of our house (we have no chimney). I really want to get a solid fuel stove in the fireplace but it looks like it may be a monumental job. We have the attic converted so I think we will have to extend the breast in the living room and create a box for the flue on the 2nd and 3rd floor before it exits on the roof. How big a task is this? We are an end of terrace house but unfortunately there is no option to put stove on the end of the house not connected with the neighbours

BarryD

maynooth_rules wrote: »

Strange question this but stick with me. In our living room we have a fireplace for a gasfire and a very small chimney breast for said gas fire. This breast was not completed and doesn't come out toe roof of our house (we have no chimney). I really want to get a solid fuel stove in the fireplace but it looks like it may be a monumental job. We have the attic converted so I think we will have to extend the breast in the living room and create a box for the flue on the 2nd and 3rd floor before it exits on the roof. How big a task is this? We are an end of terrace house but unfortunately there is no option to put stove on the end of the house not connected with the neighbours

More trouble than it's worth?? Unless you have plenty of funds and want to have this chimney. How does the gas fire discharge it's gases to the exterior. Is there some sort of flue pipe going to an exterior wall? You can get a double walled flue for exterior use that would rise up but maybe you are precluded from this by planning.

maynooth_rules

BarryD wrote: »

More trouble than it's worth?? Unless you have plenty of funds and want to have this chimney. How does the gas fire discharge it's gases to the exterior. Is there some sort of flue pipe going to an exterior wall? You can get a double walled flue for exterior use that would rise up but maybe you are precluded from this by planning.

The gas can't be discharged. When the houses were built they designed it for gas fires but then never finished off the breast so we were left with an empty chimney breast

BarryD

maynooth_rules wrote: »

The gas can't be discharged. When the houses were built they designed it for gas fires but then never finished off the breast so we were left with an empty chimney breast

So there's no gas fire? How do you heat the rest of the house? Is it oil or electric?

maynooth_rules

BarryD wrote: »

So there's no gas fire? How do you heat the rest of the house? Is it oil or electric?

We have a gas boiler that heats the all the rads. The estate has its own gas supply so its pricey enough and we want different options for heating them. We both always wanted a solid fuel stove but I don't see anyway that it is possible without massive expense

BarryD

maynooth_rules wrote: »

We have a gas boiler that heats the all the rads. The estate has its own gas supply so its pricey enough and we want different options for heating them. We both always wanted a solid fuel stove but I don't see anyway that it is possible without massive expense

Sounds like you may do your calculations and figure how much extra you'd pay extra per year in gas over solid fuel and multiply by how long you intend to live there. The double walled flue pipe that exits an exterior wall and is fixed up the outside is a cheaper solution though not as good as a proper chimney and may be planning issues?

bringitdown

Just had an inset stove fitted with a marble back into an old open fireplace.

There is an existing wooden, painted white, mantel, above the fire, which is about 60CM away.

The fitter said it would be ok but I find it very hot to touch when running the stove.

Am going to give the fitter a call back but just wondering if anyone has had a similar issue and what the resolution?

BarryD

bringitdown wrote: »

Just had an inset stove fitted with a marble back into an old open fireplace.

There is an existing wooden, painted white, mantel, above the fire, which is about 60CM away.

The fitter said it would be ok but I find it very hot to touch when running the stove.

Am going to give the fitter a call back but just wondering if anyone has had a similar issue and what the resolution?

A thought - if concerned, you might be able to fix some sort of decorative metal canopy between the stove and the mantelpiece - to deflect the heat out into the room and shield the heat from the timber?

k123456

bringitdown wrote: »

Just had an inset stove fitted with a marble back into an old open fireplace.

There is an existing wooden, painted white, mantel, above the fire, which is about 60CM away.

The fitter said it would be ok but I find it very hot to touch when running the stove.

Am going to give the fitter a call back but just wondering if anyone has had a similar issue and what the resolution?

Sounds dangerous, you may need to replace the mantel, with something fireproof

A mantle in white granite (same a as a white granite kitchen worktop) might work

as your mantle is presumably less deep than a worktop which is 60cm, Im sure a piece could be cut from an off cut , fairly cheaply

wilser

Have recently fitted a four pipe stove, one pair of connections for a cylinder and one pair for radiators.
Is it ok to feed the system from the header tank into the rad circuit?
Can't see any problems with doing it that way but one advantage would be that their would be no chance of hot water creeping back into the header tank by gravity circulation.
I can easily pipe it either way but am just a bit wary in case their is a good reason why I should feed it into the hot water side.
Also should I fit a non return valve on the cold feed to the system?

BarryD

wilser wrote: »

Have recently fitted a four pipe stove, one pair of connections for a cylinder and one pair for radiators.
Is it ok to feed the system from the header tank into the rad circuit?
Can't see any problems with doing it that way but one advantage would be that their would be no chance of hot water creeping back into the header tank by gravity circulation.
I can easily pipe it either way but am just a bit wary in case their is a good reason why I should feed it into the hot water side.
Also should I fit a non return valve on the cold feed to the system?

Probably above my 'pay grade' but reads like you're describing an 'open system' for the heating circuit, with a header tank and expansion pipe to same? Sounds normal enough. But what's this separate circuit to the cylinder? Is that completely separate circuit just running between stove and cylinder? Or is it connected in some way to the rad circuit? I presume they maybe linked somewhere, perhaps in the boiler on the stove and so the header tank/ expansion would cater for it as well? Can't quite figure the advantage of such a system i.e. does it make much difference compared to a primary circuit to cylinder and a branch off that to the rads but but I'm sure there's a good reason!

wilser

It is all one circuit, two pipes from the stove are feeding the rads and the other two pipes are feeding the hot water coil.

I can't see any problem with connecting the cold feed to the rad side of the stove as opposed to the return of the coil, but said id ask here just to be sure.
Also wasn't sure what was best practise as regards to a non return valve fitted on the cold feed.
Thanks

funnyclub

Hey guys I am looking to get a inset boiler stove fitted either a stanley cara plus or a stratford eco boiler and I have had 2 plumbers price the job for me. I currently have lpg gas with a baxi boiler.
They have bought said they would do it differently.
They both will come obviously come out the side of the chimney with the 2 pipes up into the bed room above and across to the hot press.
I am having a bigger immersion tank fitted by both and a extra tank fitted to the attic.
One has quoted me for a 14kw heat ex changer and 2 circulating pumps and the other guy said i didnt need a heat ex changer as the gas boiler was low pressure.

Which is right? Advice appreciated.

Maysa07

Hi,

I got an insert stove installed a two weeks ago and after gradually building up the fire i noticed a leak at the corner of the heart. Thinking i had a leak under the floor i called the company who installed the stove to get it removed.

When we removed the stove and lifted the hearth there was a large amount of condensation? The installer said he never seen the like.

Question - Should the installer/expert know how to prevent condensation?

I wonder if they will bill me for the removal and reinstall ?

Thanks

Pat

Dtp1979

wilser wrote: »

It is all one circuit, two pipes from the stove are feeding the rads and the other two pipes are feeding the hot water coil.

I can't see any problem with connecting the cold feed to the rad side of the stove as opposed to the return of the coil, but said id ask here just to be sure.
Also wasn't sure what was best practise as regards to a non return valve fitted on the cold feed.
Thanks

No how can you fit a vent and expansion off a pumped circuit?? It must be off the gravity side of things. The cold feed as you describe it isn't a cold feed, it's the expansion pipe, and in no way should it have a non return valve or any type of valve on it.
You should really get a plumber in to do this as it can be extremely dangerous if done wrong

BarryD

wilser wrote: »

It is all one circuit, two pipes from the stove are feeding the rads and the other two pipes are feeding the hot water coil.

I can't see any problem with connecting the cold feed to the rad side of the stove as opposed to the return of the coil, but said id ask here just to be sure.
Also wasn't sure what was best practise as regards to a non return valve fitted on the cold feed.
Thanks

I just have one primary circuit in 1" copper going from the stove to the cylinder and back to the stove with a take off to the rads in 1/2" etc. IIRC, the cold feed and expansion are connected (via separate pipes!) to the return side of the primary circuit. No non return valves, safety pressure valve on primary circuit. Not same as your system but maybe helps.

Odyssey 2005

Maysa07 wrote: »

Hi,

I got an insert stove installed a two weeks ago and after gradually building up the fire i noticed a leak at the corner of the heart. Thinking i had a leak under the floor i called the company who installed the stove to get it removed.

When we removed the stove and lifted the hearth there was a large amount of condensation? The installer said he never seen the like.

Question - Should the installer/expert know how to prevent condensation?

I wonder if they will bill me for the removal and reinstall ?

Thanks
I had the exact same thing happen about 4 weeks ago. Installer said the same thing to me. Lots of water under the hearth and LOTS leaked out. They lifted the hearth,cut away some of the floor under it and refitted. No problems since and no charge..hope this helpes you

solid 5

Hi folks - what's the best finish around an insert stove to minimise the risk of the plaster cracking? We are looking at puttin a new insert in, sitting on block, some block around it, and the pink fire resistant board encasing the stove. Do we need specialist skim cost (Victas??) or does it make much of a difference?

If we leave the regular skim coat to dry properly over a couple of months will this be sufficient to avoid cracking around the insert?

Really welcome suggestions to minimise cracking. Won't be puttin in granite above the stove / around the frame.

Vote 4 Pedro

Stove finally getting fitted tomorrow....

blindside88

Got my stove in about 9 days ago and am delighted with it. We haven't had the heating on in the house since it went in. This thread has been a great source of info when I was looking and I just want to thank everyone for their input. Pic attached of it installed, am going to look at replacing the fire place surround at some stage.

wilser

Dtp1979 wrote: »

No how can you fit a vent and expansion off a pumped circuit?? It must be off the gravity side of things.

The expansion pipe is off the hot water side, it is the cold feed that I could pipe into the rad side.
I was having cup of tea and was looking at the pipework and then had a brainwave that the cold feed might be better going into the rad side.
Note to self... Never Drink and Think

jaffa20

Is it true that there are insets stoves that do no require having the chimney lined or fireback removed?.I would only be looking for a small 4-5kw stove. This is and old house though.

BarryD

blindside88 wrote: »

Got my stove in about 9 days ago and am delighted with it. We haven't had the heating on in the house since it went in. This thread has been a great source of info when I was looking and I just want to thank everyone for their input. Pic attached of it installed, am going to look at replacing the fire place surround at some stage.

We have same type Stanley stove, throws out lots of heat into the room. Keep a fireguard ('nursery' type) in front most of time, partly as when kids were small they could accidentally come into contact with and secondly have timber flooring adjacent, similar to your location.

Walter Becket

wilser wrote: »

The expansion pipe is off the hot water side, it is the cold feed that I could pipe into the rad side.
I was having cup of tea and was looking at the pipework and then had a brainwave that the cold feed might be better going into the rad side.
Note to self... Never Drink and Think

When you say cold feed are you talking about the pipe from the feed and expansion tank in the attic if you are then this pipe has a duel purpose it fills the system and allows for expansion it's traditionally attached to the return pipe at the boiler but modern practice is to fit it 6" away from where the vent pipe is on a horizontal pipe run the highest point in the system this is usually where the flow pipe goes into the copper cylinder. The fill and expansion pipe should be nearer to the cylinder than the vent pipe. To reduce the likelihood of hot water flowing up to the feed and expansion tank the pipe can be bent into a hockey stick shape and enter the tee from below. I hope this makes sense

Dtp1979

wilser wrote: »

The expansion pipe is off the hot water side, it is the cold feed that I could pipe into the rad side.
I was having cup of tea and was looking at the pipework and then had a brainwave that the cold feed might be better going into the rad side.
Note to self... Never Drink and Think

If you don't understand that the so called cold feed as you wrongly call it, is actually the expansion pipe, then you've no business playing around with solid fuel pipework. The pipe that goes over the tank is the vent.

Maysa07

Odyssey 2005 wrote: »

Maysa07 wrote: »

Hi,

I got an insert stove installed a two weeks ago and after gradually building up the fire i noticed a leak at the corner of the heart. Thinking i had a leak under the floor i called the company who installed the stove to get it removed.

When we removed the stove and lifted the hearth there was a large amount of condensation? The installer said he never seen the like.

Question - Should the installer/expert know how to prevent condensation?

I wonder if they will bill me for the removal and reinstall ?

Thanks

I had the exact same thing happen about 4 weeks ago. Installer said the same thing to me. Lots of water under the hearth and LOTS leaked out. They lifted the hearth,cut away some of the floor under it and refitted. No problems since and no charge..hope this helpes you

That was one of the suggestions i got, might just do that later on before they reinstall the stove. Thank you

funnyclub

Hey guys I am looking to get a inset boiler stove fitted either a stanley cara plus or a stratford eco boiler and I have had 2 plumbers price the job for me. I currently have lpg gas with a baxi boiler.
They have both said they would do it differently.
They both will come obviously come out the side of the chimney with the 2 pipes up into the bed room above and across to the hot press.
I am having a bigger immersion tank fitted by both and a extra tank fitted to the attic.
One has quoted me for a 14kw heat ex changer and 2 circulating pumps and the other guy said i didnt need a heat ex changer as the gas boiler was low pressure.

Which is right? Advice appreciated.

flutered

i got a stove which i intend to put it into a large old open cottage fireplace, the fireplace will be mankey, as it has been blocked up for years, it has concrete walls, can somebody offer an idea as to the best way of cheaply dressing the walls, they are not even so painting is out, it is i think 6ft at the front 6ft deep, at the back it is roughly 3ft wide, as it is not as yet reopened i am unsure of the exact measurements