STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

BarryD

Cathellen wrote: »

Hi, was searching posts to see what I could get on the Lismore. I have one installed for 2 years and I am so disappointd with it. I get very little heat to the room and the radiators are just warm. I burn coal and wood. The stove itself never gets really hot...it's possible to put your hand on it. What could I be doing wrong. My room is a double room but even if you sit up close to the stove it's no warmer. I would love to get this sorted.

How much fuel are you burning in it?
You can only get out of a heating system what you put in the first place, minus what is lost in the process. So think about how much space you're trying to heat and what amount of fuel you're using, turn off some rads maybe.

How long do you have it lit each day?
As far as I can see, solid fuel heating works best when the house is occupied on a 24/7 basis or at least when the stove is lit and running in winter from early afternoon. If you are out all day and only lighting for a few hours in the evening, then oil or gas boiler may suit better?

Cathellen

I often light fire from early aftenoon and keep a good fire going...I never turn damper down. I turn on oil heating first to heat rads but stove mot able to keep them hot. Heating 10 single rads. Biggest dissapointment is that there's very little radiant heat from stove....no point sitting closer to it to be warm.

pippip

I had a disappointing year with my stove too the first year I had it. This year I'm much happier.

Things I'm doing different this year are -

Fill it with as much fuel as possible, I kept putting in what i "thought" was plenty of fuel.

Keep the top vents open as much as possible, last year I kept closing them as the stove felt cold when I opened them but once the fire gets going it overcomes this and its much hotter to touch. More air means more heat, you have to balance this with how quick the fuel is burning.

DONT buy cheap wood, this year I got a large order of hardwood and its much much better. I kept buying cheap logs from the local store last year which I know now are a waste of time. Also ovoids stove coals in with the wood.

Not sure if you have the option but I have mine set to start heating the rads at 60c. Had this at 55c before as that's what the installer left it at and was always too cold.

BarryD

Cathellen wrote: »

I often light fire from early aftenoon and keep a good fire going...I never turn damper down. I turn on oil heating first to heat rads but stove mot able to keep them hot. Heating 10 single rads. Biggest dissapointment is that there's very little radiant heat from stove....no point sitting closer to it to be warm.

The boiler takes away a proportion of the heat as it normally wraps around the firebox. But you should have a hot top and front throwing out heat.

If the priority is to have nice radiant heat being thrown out, perhaps consider replacing with a non boiler model. We have a small Waterford stove in a sitting room and it's very good.

Cathellen

Thanks for all that. I will experiment and hopefully I'll crack it otherwise I feel like taking it out and putting in an non boiler like I have in the sitting room....it's brilliant!

Cathellen

I too have small Stanley in sitting room and find it brilliant. I'm very tempted to change to non boiler in the other room but have to convince other half!!

bigdawg

Cathellen wrote: »

Thanks for all that. I will experiment and hopefully I'll crack it otherwise I feel like taking it out and putting in an non boiler like I have in the sitting room....it's brilliant!

We had a boiler stove which was a useless room heater. I knew we were doing everything right (dry fuel, good draw, insulated house, good plumbing) so it could only have been one thing - a sh*t stove. So i was determined to get it right and I put in an Inis Stove last March. An Inis Meain to be exact. And we havent looked back. Room is baking, plenty water, could not be happier. Wife had given up on the project. She now thinks its one of the best things we've ever done. Its so hot, she now goes around in a t-shirt - Im not complaining

There are plenty stoves out there that are just crap room heaters - too much heat drawn away from the combustion chamber by the cooler returning water. If you read Inis's website and brochures - they have thought about this and their stoves show it. Re-designed their stoves to achieve much better balance with a boiler area on the top but NOT wrap around. And the results are there to be seen.

Assuming you have everything else right, then its the stove. Check Inis out.

Macspower

I'm planning on installing a stanley oisín shortly and just working on placement. I have no choice but to come out through the wall using the rear flue option.

My question is what is the maximum distance I can install it from the wall. Don't forget on the outside it will be making a 90 bend and going up the wall. In other words . whats the max distance before the 90% bend.

rpmcs

150mm /6" by regs ....what I'd recommend is either out top and then out wall at 45° with tee piece
You could go out the back and do same but you get more heat out of some of the flue exposed in room.
But when you ask I'd strongly advise in getting some one that has some training to install solid fuel ..

funnyclub

Guys had my insert boiler stove fitted a few weeks ago and theres a pipe from the attic out through the back of the house, I think it comes off the overflow tank. Anyway it's nearly constantly dripping water when the stove is on, why would that be?

BarryD

funnyclub wrote: »

Guys had my insert boiler stove fitted a few weeks ago and theres a pipe from the attic out through the back of the house, I think it comes off the overflow tank. Anyway it's nearly constantly dripping water when the stove is on, why would that be?

Suggest you go look in the attic and figure exactly where the pipe is coming from and what it's connected to. Was it always there or part of new install? Did you have a solid fuel system before this install etc?

Systems vary, in our case we have two overflow pipes from the attic - one from the cold water storage tank and the other from the small header tank that supplies and allows for expansion etc. in the hot water system.

If the pipe connects to the cold water storage tank, then clean out/ fix the ball cock valve but a leak from that is very unlikely to be connected to running the stove.

If the pipe connects to a small header tank, I'd guess you suspect that the hot water in your system is expanding and running back into the header tank (which it should if the water gets too hot), which then overflows and would drip. However as far as I know this should only be a very occasional occurrence, I guess it depends on how much pipe height/ run there is for expansion before the tank is reached. Is it a bungalow?

Your system may well be different, either way shouldn't be happening as far as I know.

funnyclub

BarryD wrote: »

Suggest you go look in the attic and figure exactly where the pipe is coming from and what it's connected to. Was it always there or part of new install? Did you have a solid fuel system before this install etc?

Systems vary, in our case we have two overflow pipes from the attic - one from the cold water storage tank and the other from the small header tank that supplies and allows for expansion etc. in the hot water system.

If the pipe connects to the cold water storage tank, then clean out/ fix the ball cock valve but a leak from that is very unlikely to be connected to running the stove.

If the pipe connects to a small header tank, I'd guess you suspect that the hot water in your system is expanding and running back into the header tank (which it should if the water gets too hot), which then overflows and would drip. However as far as I know this should only be a very occasional occurrence, I guess it depends on how much pipe height/ run there is for expansion before the tank is reached. Is it a bungalow?

Your system may well be different, either way shouldn't be happening as far as I know.

Hey Barry its from the small header tank that was fitted as part of the stove upgrade. It starts dripping when ever the stove is lit.
The plumber is coming back one of the days to take a look anyway but I just wanted to know myself.

redoctober

Hi there. I've got a problem with a Yeoman Devon double sided. It's in a room that's 25 by 12 feet. It's set into chimney breast in centre of room. There's not much space above the canopy of the stove. That could be a factor.

There's good draught. Fire will burn well but for the size of room it should be toasty but isn't at all. There is heat when you really get it going but goes through a lot of fuel with poor return. If I open the doors there's plenty of heat. Thanks for any advice as it's frustrating and I've asked a few stove places but not convinced by suggestions. It's a second hand stove by the way.

k123456

Hi Folks, can anyone recommend a good cowl,

I find with the last few stormy nights , you can feel the wind "coming down the flue",

murph226

I just got a used Mazona Orlando 8KW stove for free and am looking for info and advice on whether or not its suitable for my needs.


Its in ok nick, the grate is burnt out, theres a couple of handles missing and some of the rope needs refitting/replacing.


The room I hope to use it in is around 21x21 feet with little or no insulation in the walls (2ft stone) with a 15ft vaulted ceiling.


There is a double sided fireplace in the centre of the room, I have cleaned the chimney and lit a test fire but the draw is very poor and I'm having problems with smoke.


The plan is to fit the stove into one side of the fireplace, it will only be a temporary measure for a year or too until I can afford to renovate the room, there is central heating in the rest of the house, I would just like to get some heat into this room as well.


So, can anyone tell me if 8KW is ok for this room?


Also, should I replace the burnt out grate with a genuine replacement or would I get away with welding something up myself?


TIA


Murph

Vote 4 Pedro

murph226 wrote: »

I just got a used Mazona Orlando 8KW stove for free and am looking for info and advice on whether or not its suitable for my needs.


Its in ok nick, the grate is burnt out, theres a couple of handles missing and some of the rope needs refitting/replacing.


The room I hope to use it in is around 21x21 feet with little or no insulation in the walls (2ft stone) with a 15ft vaulted ceiling.


There is a double sided fireplace in the centre of the room, I have cleaned the chimney and lit a test fire but the draw is very poor and I'm having problems with smoke.


The plan is to fit the stove into one side of the fireplace, it will only be a temporary measure for a year or too until I can afford to renovate the room, there is central heating in the rest of the house, I would just like to get some heat into this room as well.


So, can anyone tell me if 8KW is ok for this room?


Also, should I replace the burnt out grate with a genuine replacement or would I get away with welding something up myself?


TIA


Murph

I have a 8kW room heater stove in a 18 x18 feet room with a 16 foot vaulted ceiling, I know it's not quite the same as yours but it's similar, the 8kW stove is fine in our room, can get to hot sometimes but just takes a a while, 20-25 mins or so to get the room nice and toasty.

murph226

Vote 4 Pedro wrote: »

I have a 8kW room heater stove in a 18 x18 feet room with a 16 foot vaulted ceiling, I know it's not quite the same as yours but it's similar, the 8kW stove is fine in our room, can get to hot sometimes but just takes a a while, 20-25 mins or so to get the room nice and toasty.

Thanks, is the room insulated?

Vote 4 Pedro

murph226 wrote: »

Thanks, is the room insulated?

Reasonably, house is 15 years old, but we have a window in the room which is about 8'6" x 13' high and it's really bad (MJ) and it's drafty as hell and so that loses a lot of heat, our stove is a Dru55mf, only had it in about a month and it's really transformed the room and also the house is warmer altogether.

tcif

murph226 wrote: »

I just got a used Mazona Orlando 8KW....

We actually had one of these in our last house, in a 6x4m room with probably medium insulation. Anyway, the heat out of it was incredible when it got going, it would have heated twice the space (and often did when we opened the doors into the kitchen) and we only ever used wood and turf. Not great vents so not the best stove for controlling the rate of burn but full marks for heat.

The rope is easily replaced, any shop selling stoves will have it and adhesive for it. Can't help you with the grate as never had to replace or repair one.

bogman

Looking for advice please, are the Blacksmith Anvil and the Stanley Oisin non boiler stoves reasonably similar or is there a reason to go for one rather than the other? thanks in anticipation

RebelButtMunch

Hi

The stove installers surrounded our inset stove with vermiculite 'Skamolex' board on the sides and back of the empty fireplace. Then somebody (not me ) painted the board with the same vinyl paint that's on the chimney breast.

Now when the stove gets hot, there is a horrible chemical tippex-like stink. I'm reasonably sure it's the paint. A:its not heat resistant, B: the smell never happened before it was painted.

Now Im wondering what to do. I already have bought three new skamolex boards, but I was thinking of my options

1: Get a heat gun and try to remove the paint from the skamolex board.
2: Get a stove installer in, and re-do the job. Problem with that is, the fireplace was plastered after the stove was installed. Replacing the board and touching up the plaster, just wouldnt look right

Advice appreciated!

Skippy along

The wife's at home now with new baby twins so chewing through the coal and blocks at an alarming rate the house is 3 bed semi 14 years old and want the stove to go in the existing fireplace so off i went to my local established stove shop with young kids a free standing stove is out of the question so i looked at the stovax riva 50 insert looks great i gave the guy in the store the details of my existing fireplace and he siad that the fire insert would have to be replaced with a new one which i had anticipated asked him if he could call to my home to give a quote sure no problem but he could give me a rough quote now grand says i
the stove is €1550 + fitting includes all materials and fully lined and replacement of fire insert at €1850 total = €3,400 now i fully realise that with two men and all materials for the day costs are incured but this to me seems expensive or does it?

BarryD

We'd have children and free standing stoves - they soon learnt not to touch them! Seriously though, that's learnt quickly but the main danger is a child stumbling against a lit stove. And it's just a matter of having a suitable guard in the same way as you'll protect your stairs with a gate. Your ordinary spark fireguard is no good but you can get a 'nursery guard' which will enclose a stove for around €30-40. Our kids are teenagers and older now but we still use the guard in the sitting room. So maybe this is of help.

tcif

€3,400 euro to supply and install a 7kw stove? That's beyond expensive, it's extortionate! I've no experience with cassette stoves (only freestanding and insert) and I don't know anything about your set up at home so maybe I'm missing something but that sounds crazy money to me.

For comparison, we have a Henley Achill 6.7kw insert and they're about €800 and it's a brilliant little stove. Paid about another €1,400 with it for a new fireplace and fitting of both last May.

Shop around, would be my advice.

kennyb3

We had tiwns - our gas bills were huge that winter €700 for 4 months (one 2 month bill was €400). 20 year old house - not the coldest or warmest. We just had it on an awful lot.

But it passes after 1 winter - winter bills back to sub €200 and probably sub €800 for the entire year.

So not really worth it.

For me get the stove if you love that open fire smell, the look, care about the environment but retrofitting one won't save you loads of money - as the costs are large, then you've to clean the flue regularly, buy wood etc.

I think it would be a different story if the house was really old and cold.

This is a fantastic stove guard btw

http://www.babydan.com/page1073.aspx?recordid1073=189

BeepBeep67

I had a stove fitted before Christmas and the advice and cost of fitting varied greatly. Shop around and get some recommendations locally for neighbours.

Skippy along

So much for shopping local going to have a shop around and see thanks

BeepBeep67

Skippy along wrote: »

So much for shopping local going to have a shop around and see thanks

To put it into context, we saved €400 on the stove and about another €400 versus the average cost of the quotes.

krahsrekop

Hi,
Just wonderimg if anyone can give me some advice on a pierce glas boiler insert stove. Had it installed a few months back. Supposed to be a 17kw output with 4 to the room.and 13 to the rads. We have a relatively small room so we didnt think we would need more than 4kw to the room (15ftx13ft) Problem we are having is the room is not being warmed by the stove at all. The rads are warm enough but not piping. Bunring good dry turf and theres a good flame in the fire when its burning. Also if we have it burning for the day the ash builds up and doesnt fall through the grate that well so by the time the evening comes the fire is a bit dampened and then the rads dont stay hot because there isnt a good flame going. Basically we are not getting much value heat wise from the stove but we reckon theres something not right with it. Any advice would be appreciated.

krahsrekop

Hi,
Just wonderimg if anyone can give me some advice on a pierce glas boiler insert stove. Had it installed a few months back. Supposed to be a 17kw output with 4 to the room.and 13 to the rads. We have a relatively small room so we didnt think we would need more than 4kw to the room (15ftx13ft) Problem we are having is the room is not being warmed by the stove at all. The rads are warm enough but not piping. Bunring good dry turf and theres a good flame in the fire when its burning. Also if we have it burning for the day the ash builds up and doesnt fall through the grate that well so by the time the evening comes the fire is a bit dampened and then the rads dont stay hot because there isnt a good flame going. Basically we are not getting much value heat wise from the stove but we reckon theres something not right with it. Any advice would be appreciated.

BarryD

krahsrekop wrote: »

Hi,
Just wonderimg if anyone can give me some advice on a pierce glas boiler insert stove. Had it installed a few months back. Supposed to be a 17kw output with 4 to the room.and 13 to the rads. We have a relatively small room so we didnt think we would need more than 4kw to the room (15ftx13ft) Problem we are having is the room is not being warmed by the stove at all. The rads are warm enough but not piping. Bunring good dry turf and theres a good flame in the fire when its burning. Also if we have it burning for the day the ash builds up and doesnt fall through the grate that well so by the time the evening comes the fire is a bit dampened and then the rads dont stay hot because there isnt a good flame going. Basically we are not getting much value heat wise from the stove but we reckon theres something not right with it. Any advice would be appreciated.

Try mixing coal and/or anthracite in with your turf and maybe the odd bit of firewood. It's all about carbon content I think - highest anthracite, to coal, to firewood, to turf which has the least. Put it another way, if you get a thick bog/ swamp and compress it under a huge weight of overlying rock, you'll eventually get coal

CHOPS01

krahsrekop wrote: »

Hi,
Just wonderimg if anyone can give me some advice on a pierce glas boiler insert stove. Had it installed a few months back. Supposed to be a 17kw output with 4 to the room.and 13 to the rads. We have a relatively small room so we didnt think we would need more than 4kw to the room (15ftx13ft) Problem we are having is the room is not being warmed by the stove at all. The rads are warm enough but not piping. Bunring good dry turf and theres a good flame in the fire when its burning. Also if we have it burning for the day the ash builds up and doesnt fall through the grate that well so by the time the evening comes the fire is a bit dampened and then the rads dont stay hot because there isnt a good flame going. Basically we are not getting much value heat wise from the stove but we reckon theres something not right with it. Any advice would be appreciated.

If your burning turf only I would see that being your problem.Any stove or insert is quoting output values based on coal and seasoned dry wood.
Turf is fine but doesn't have the calorific value of timber and coal it also produces a lot more ash.
I'd suggest you get a bag of good smokeless coal and some hardwood blocks and see how it goes then.

RebelButtMunch

krahsrekop wrote: »

Hi,
Just wonderimg if anyone can give me some advice on a pierce glas boiler insert stove. Had it installed a few months back. Supposed to be a 17kw output with 4 to the room.and 13 to the rads. We have a relatively small room so we didnt think we would need more than 4kw to the room (15ftx13ft) Problem we are having is the room is not being warmed by the stove at all. The rads are warm enough but not piping. Bunring good dry turf and theres a good flame in the fire when its burning. Also if we have it burning for the day the ash builds up and doesnt fall through the grate that well so by the time the evening comes the fire is a bit dampened and then the rads dont stay hot because there isnt a good flame going. Basically we are not getting much value heat wise from the stove but we reckon theres something not right with it. Any advice would be appreciated.

Is there a device that moves the grate to let the ash fall through?
Also, maybe try coal, it burns hotter and depending on the type, it can have a lot less ash.

dathi

krahsrekop wrote: »

Hi,
Just wonderimg if anyone can give me some advice on a pierce glas boiler insert stove. Had it installed a few months back. Supposed to be a 17kw output . Bunring good dry turf.

your stove is 17 kw and your burning turf your pierce stove is 75% effecient

turf has 3.6 kwh per kilo so 3.6kwh x 0.75 (effeciency) =2.7. devide the 17 kw output of your stove by 2.7 to change it into kilos of turf =6.29kg so to reach the 17 kwh output of your stove you would have to burn 6.29 kg of turf per hour
wood has 5.3kwh per kilo so 17 / (5.3x0.75) =4.25kg of wood per hour
coal has 7.5 kwh per kilo so 17 / (7.5 x0.75) =3 kg of coal per hour

RebelButtMunch

dathi wrote: »

your stove is 17 kw and your burning turf your pierce stove is 75% effecient

turf has 3.6 kwh per kilo so 3.6kwh x 0.75 (effeciency) =2.7. devide the 17 kw output of your stove by 2.7 to change it into kilos of turf =6.29kg so to reach the 17 kwh output of your stove you would have to burn 6.29 kg of turf per hour
wood has 5.3kwh per kilo so 17 / (5.3x0.75) =4.25kg of wood per hour
coal has 7.5 kwh per kilo so 17 / (7.5 x0.75) =3 kg of coal per hour

Great explanation! I suppose I never thought about it that the stated output of the stove is for when its burning 'to the max' whatever is in there.

RebelButtMunch

RebelButtMunch wrote: »

Hi

The stove installers surrounded our inset stove with vermiculite 'Skamolex' board on the sides and back of the empty fireplace. Then somebody (not me ) painted the board with the same vinyl paint that's on the chimney breast.

Now when the stove gets hot, there is a horrible chemical tippex-like stink. I'm reasonably sure it's the paint. A:its not heat resistant, B: the smell never happened before it was painted.

Now Im wondering what to do. I already have bought three new skamolex boards, but I was thinking of my options

1: Get a heat gun and try to remove the paint from the skamolex board.
2: Get a stove installer in, and re-do the job. Problem with that is, the fireplace was plastered after the stove was installed. Replacing the board and touching up the plaster, just wouldnt look right

Advice appreciated!

To follow up on this one. I got a heat gun from Argos and softened the paint. Then used a scraper to scrape it off, along with a good couple of milimeters of the skamolex board. I couldnt get all the way around the back with the gun but the smell has gone now thankfully

Lucyfur

I have questions. And I know NOTHING about stoves. At all.

I am hoping to put in a double sided stove and back boiler to heat a sitting room that is 18x15 and an open plan kitchen/diner that is 14x27sunroom that is 12x12.

There are 12 radiators in the house. What kind of outage? wattage? Stove would I need? Will it heat the whole house? And, can anyone tell me how horribly messy it will be to put in a back boiler? The hot water tank is upstairs but pipes lead down to a little cloakroom downstairs.

Skippy along

Any thoughts on the Arizona tucson insert stove can't find much info on it i have a price got which suits my budget any advice thanks

http://www.bpmsupplies.ie/tusconstove.html

Basq

Father got some dried wood from DoneDeal and they turned out to be far more moist than expected.. he's learned his lesson and picked up a Wood Moisture Meter but the build up of thick black creosote inside the stove is pretty dreadful.

Anyone recommend something which may help lift this? There seems to be a few things like those firelogs but they're more aimed at build up in the flue etc.

leanbh

This post has been deleted.

MenloPete

I have a N-M Harmony stove with boiler. I am trying to clean out the soot internally. Just wondering if any of you are familiar with this model and can offer advice.
Access is through a lid on the top and then a plate can be removed. The back of the boiler is revealed, but it slopes down into a quite narrow V shape which is closed at the bottom. It appears to have an opening on either side at the bottom of this V, but I can't figure out how this is accessed.
The only option appears to be hoovering it out from the top, but I would have thought there would be access to the back of the boiler from underneath.
Even cleaning the sides of the boiler is extremely difficult. Are there special tools for this?
Any help anyone?

ondarack

would anyone have any ideas/pictures of a stone or modern fireplace to replace this? The fireplace is behind the timber on the left,I would like to fit a stove in there and a cavity to the right to store timber. Its a small room and im thinking of retrofitting to suit a back boiler stove to disperse the heat as i've been in small rooms before and found them too warm even though the stove was small and throttled down

murph226

Can someone please advise on what way to have the stove vents once it's up and going?

I have vents on the lower parts of the doors and more vents on the top just under the lid.

I'm not 100% sure whether I should have them both open?

RebelButtMunch

murph226 wrote: »

Can someone please advise on what way to have the stove vents once it's up and going?

I have vents on the lower parts of the doors and more vents on the top just under the lid.

I'm not 100% sure whether I should have them both open?

Depends on what blaze level you want.
Once my fire is established I close both vents to reduce the flame and reduce the amount of warm air being lost up the chimney

Bigcheeze

murph226 wrote: »

Can someone please advise on what way to have the stove vents once it's up and going?

I have vents on the lower parts of the doors and more vents on the top just under the lid.

I'm not 100% sure whether I should have them both open?

what's the stove and what do the instructions say ?

I have a Stovax wood burner and once it's hot, I close the bottom air vents and keep the top "air wash" vents more or less fully open.

Reedsie

Stove is getting through a lot of fuel when it's very windy. Even with the vents closed there seems to be a fairly strong 'pull' on it. When it's not windy the fuel just sits there burning nice and calmly for hours (with vents closed).

Any ideas? Is a cowl the solution?

Reedsie

Stove is getting through a lot of fuel when it's very windy. Even with the vents closed there seems to be a fairly strong 'pull' on it. When it's not windy the fuel just sits there burning nice and calmly for hours (with vents closed).

Any ideas? Is a cowl the solution?

ondarack

Hello I hope someone can advise me, I'm just after getting a quote to fit a lentil,open up a fireplace,centre it and fit stove and liner, it is itemised below. To be honest I got a shock with the price if it, is it me or does it seem a bit much?


Modern Dublin Fireplace €1450
Stovax Stockton 5 €790
Chamber Granite €250
Fitting €550
High Grade Chimney Pack & Pipe €740
Stone Cladding €150
1 Vent 2 Alarms €160
Remove existing chimney structure
dugout for stove and reinstall structural
lentils including material €1200

Total €5290

rpmcs

To be honest taking out a lintel is a big job.
So in my opinion the quote looks about right.

Bigcheeze

ondarack wrote: »

Hello I hope someone can advise me, I'm just after getting a quote to fit a lentil,open up a fireplace,centre it and fit stove and liner, it is itemised below. To be honest I got a shock with the price if it, is it me or does it seem a bit much?


Modern Dublin Fireplace €1450
Stovax Stockton 5 €790
Chamber Granite €250
Fitting €550
High Grade Chimney Pack & Pipe €740
Stone Cladding €150
1 Vent 2 Alarms €160
Remove existing chimney structure
dugout for stove and reinstall structural
lentils including material €1200

Total €5290

It's a lot of work. Liner sounds expensive and it's debatable if you need it but some suppliers always fit them and some test if they are needed. Is it an option to design the opening without the fireplace surround?