Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie

strippin'...

  • 24-09-2011 5:06pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,882 ✭✭✭


    Ok so I got most of the wallpaper stripped and made some horrible discoveries. Anyway, the horrible discovery that's really annoying me at the moment is behind the radiator. The radiator is old and hangs from two brackets as the gun-metal pipes just run along the skirting, so there's no support at the base.

    Behind the radiator is some old pressed card stuff that is supposed to look like tiles. This stuff was around in the 1960s. It's thick card and I can't cut through it with a stanley knife. I'm not sure how to take the radiator off. Any ideas?


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,555 ✭✭✭antiskeptic


    Ok so I got most of the wallpaper stripped and made some horrible discoveries. Anyway, the horrible discovery that's really annoying me at the moment is behind the radiator. The radiator is old and hangs from two brackets as the gun-metal pipes just run along the skirting, so there's no support at the base.

    Behind the radiator is some old pressed card stuff that is supposed to look like tiles. This stuff was around in the 1960s. It's thick card and I can't cut through it with a stanley knife. I'm not sure how to take the radiator off. Any ideas?

    The photo linked here shows a typical radiator valve. The threaded portion pointing to 9 o'clock goes into the rad and the vertical portion connects to the pipework (in this case to copper piping). In your case, the gun barrel joint into the valve shouldn't be disturbed as it's likely to be seized in position and requires a bit of skill to remake properly anyway.

    You can disconnect the valve from the rad by undoing the large nut on the 9 o'clock bit though. First close both valves to stop water from the system emptying out, then open the nut using a properly fitting spanner/adjustable wrench. It might take a bit of leaning on to open given it's size and the fact it could be stuck with sealant.

    When the nut is undone, pull the pipe/valve away from the rad a bit and the rad water will empty out. You might need to tap the valve away lightly (after the nut is undone) in the case the joint is a bit stuck.

    To remake the joint, clean both mating faces and smear a little Boss White (Chadwicks plumbing dept) on them, then tighten up the nut and refill the rad

    http://yhjushui.en.made-in-china.com/product/UEJxZfQAWmCi/China-Brass-Radiator-Valve-JS-E1301-.html

    Once the pipes are dropped away, you'll probably find that the rad simply lifts up off the bracket.


Advertisement