Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie

Socket from immersion?

Options
  • 01-10-2011 10:57am
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 8


    I was just wondering if it was possible to wire a socket up from an immersion, easy or a tough job? I'm sure I'd have to get an electrician to do a proper job.


«1

Comments

  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,592 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    I was just wondering if it was possible to wire a socket up from an immersion, easy or a tough job? I'm sure I'd have to get an electrician to do a proper job.
    Not permitted as it is against regulations!

    Remember, this circuit already has a loading of 2 to 3 kW on it.

    My advice would be not to do it.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,431 ✭✭✭M cebee


    yes it's not allowed-a sparkie won't do it


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    I agree,, its not permitted, nor should it be, although i dont think putting a socket on the circuit would be a major risk just because it has a 3kw load on it, but it is a factor alright, but the fact it does have a fixed 2/3kw load on it, and is a circuit supplying a fixed appliance, even if the rules did allow it, it would be very bad practice, and change the simple clean installation into a potentially messy one. We had a discussion on this very thing 2 years ago here.

    Where are you looking to put the extra socket? If you do get an electrician to do it, which you should, it would be a bit of a cowboy job to come from the immersion circuit anyway.

    Any new work should be kept away from inside the hot press as well i would say, unless its something associated with water based appliances.

    So my advice also, would be not to do it from the immersion circuit.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    M cebee wrote: »
    yes it's not allowed-a sparkie won't do it

    Some of them would though, its definitely one of them real cowboy jobs.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,431 ✭✭✭M cebee


    nothing bad will happen probably

    permanently connected heating appliances greater than 10amp have dedicated circuit


  • Advertisement
  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,592 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    You are probabely right :D:D


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,431 ✭✭✭M cebee


    not sure of the exact definition of 'hot press' but a lot of new builds

    the room containing the cylinder is more like a 'plant room' and contains no clothes so i assume rules on equipment don't apply


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    M cebee wrote: »
    not sure of the exact definition of 'hot press' but a lot of new builds

    the room containing the cylinder is more like a 'plant room' and contains no clothes so i assume rules on equipment don't apply


    When i mentioned new work, i meant any new items installed in an existing house rather than an actual new house being built, i would keep away from connections in the cylinder press completely unless its something associated with it.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 15,858 ✭✭✭✭paddy147


    Its like the whole "you cant have an alarmpanel in a hotpress" debate.

    The regs do seem to state that you shouldnt do it,but yet so many people have their house alarm panels there.

    I had mine moved to another parts of the house,due to safety concerns.

    I wouldnt put a socket in a hotpress for safety reasons aswell.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    paddy147 wrote: »
    Its like the whole "you cant have an alarmpanel in a hotpress" debate.

    The regs do seem to state that you shouldnt do it,but yet so many people have their house alarm panels there.

    I had mine moved to another parts of the house,due to safety concerns.

    I wouldnt put a socket in a hotpress for safety reasons aswell.

    Not much to do with that paddy, i doubt the OP was putting the socket in the hot press, although anything`s possible. The main rule in this instance is, no spur from the immersion circuit, even if the immersion switch is outside the hot press.

    I just mentioned the hotpress thing because i wouldnt do any connecting of anything in it which has nothing to do with the heating or control of the hot water.


  • Advertisement
  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,431 ✭✭✭M cebee


    yes the question isn't related to having equipment in hot press really


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    Had that microcontroller chip controlled push button timer i put together up and goin properly today, just switching 60w bulbs on with press of the button and then they went off after the allotted time. Definitely be a handy yoke for the immersion. Goin to possibly make a dimmer switch that can be controlled with the tv remote as well probably.


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,715 ✭✭✭✭altor


    robbie7730 wrote: »
    Had that microcontroller chip controlled push button timer i put together up and goin properly today, just switching 60w bulbs on with press of the button and then they went off after the allotted time. Definitely be a handy yoke for the immersion. Goin to possibly make a dimmer switch that can be controlled with the tv remote as well probably.

    Is it something like this ?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    altor wrote: »
    Is it something like this ?

    Its actually a pic12f675 chip im using, its just a stand alone chip which im using a pickit2 usb programmer to write code to from a pc, then just connect n/o push buttons from the +5v to the input pins in series with resistors, and higher value resistors between 0v and the input pins to keep the pins at 0v when the push buttons are not being pressed.

    That particuar chip im using is just an 8 pin one, 2 pins for 5 volts, and the rest can be inputs or outputs, acording to the program you compile onto it. For the push button timer i have 2 inputs for 2 push buttons, one to start the timing period, and another to stop it if needs be. But 3 or 4 inputs could be used for various routines in the program, such as 30 minutes, 60 minutes etc from the same timer.

    Then 2 outputs, one for a flashing led to show its timing, and the other output is into a mosfet transistor to bring on a relay when the chip outputs onto the output pins when the push button is pressed to start the cycle, according to the program written for the application. The chip itself can only switch about 20 miliamps.

    Its all written in basic, straight forward enough, and compiled into hex code to the chip. Takes seconds then to change anything. A timer is just one application for them. DIP switches like in the board you linked could easily be used in this setup as inputs to vary the time length when the push button is pressed, if its reflected in the program written.

    The circuit can be powered from a simple capacitive transformerless circuit for using in 230v applications.

    All these type timers can be got easy enough, but its interesting the applications that can be done based around a single chip.

    Im going to look at making infra red controlled switches as well with them as mentionened in last post, they can learn the codes from unused buttons on a tv remote. Have not tried that yet, waiting for some infra red receiver diodes to arrive for that.


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,715 ✭✭✭✭altor


    Handy when you know what your doing robbie :D
    It is very interesting and hopefully the remote will work out. I am sure you will get it working. Just got one of these the other day to mess around with and then seen your reference to a type your working on.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    Yea its interesting to connect the chip up to the pc and program in a little routine, then plug the chip into the prototype breadboard with a few components and press the button, lights on for an hour and then off, then add another input in the pc program, reprogram the chip, so now one push button for an hour, one for half hour, modified in seconds. Its very similar to the basic programming language of computers years ago for anyone familar with that. It could be set from milli seconds to years. Not sure a year or more timer would be needed though:D

    It could have applications in alarms too id say. You could have 2 or 3 outputs do different things depending on what input is triggered. What you have the output do would be down to what you want to happen, and program the chip accordingly. Similar to the board you got there.


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,715 ✭✭✭✭altor


    Yes very similar, It is like using the cause and effect on the signet. If you have the time it is a good little project your working on.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    altor wrote: »
    Yes very similar, It is like using the cause and effect on the signet. If you have the time it is a good little project your working on.

    Yes its an interesting one alright. Getting the 20ma switching that the chip can do, up to switching on and off an immersion in itself is an intersting project, although not too difficult. After the infra red switch which i want to make for an audio switching thing a made a while back, which i switch manually at present, an infra red controlled dimmer can be made. That certainly would be an interesting one.

    Are you going to use the board you got in some of your own work?


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,715 ✭✭✭✭altor


    I just got it to mess with and see what it can do, no real project in mind. The infra red control would be a nice feature to add to your device.
    You wont have to get out of the chair when you go home with all your controls if you keep going at it :D


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    Yea i was thinking that myself:)

    Have a look at them yourself, pic microcontrollers, its the pic12f675 im using at the moment, a few of them i got. And pickit2 to program it. Not too difficult to use.


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 11,715 ✭✭✭✭altor


    You will have to make some up for fellow boards users ;)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    It was actually somones post here a few weeks ago showing a push button to run the immersion for an hour, a useful idea for use with already fitted mechanical clocks, that put the idea of making one in my mind. More curiosity than anything. I only have a mechancal timecock on my boiler, and its not working right, so thats the first place its going, a 1,2 and 4 hour button one id say. I could just buy one but wheres the fun in that.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    Put the tv remote control operated switch together. Worked perfect. Set it up switching on and off a 60 watt bulb using a spare button on the tv remote. Although thats not what my use will be for it. Handy device though.


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,715 ✭✭✭✭altor


    Very good, You will have to build something that uses blue tooth or a wire free switch to control other objects now. Strike while the iron is hot :D


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    Yea that can be done alright.


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,715 ✭✭✭✭altor


    robbie7730 wrote: »
    Yea that can be done alright.

    Just reading this, very interesting what can be done with the right know how :D


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    Yea its endless alright, there are a lot of project sites to look at.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,379 ✭✭✭DublinDilbert


    That's good going Robbie, if your using a triac to drive the light, bring in the zero crossing of the mains via an opto coupler and you can dim it too.

    I've spent a lot of time working with pic processors, shoot over any questions, I should be able to help.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    Yes thats next, an opto isolator triac driver with zero crossing to drive a triac for a dimmer version soon. With a little capacitive transformerless power suppy for it.

    The one i threw together today is just using a small transistor switching a relay.


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 5,379 ✭✭✭DublinDilbert


    robbie7730 wrote: »
    Yes thats next, an opto isolator triac driver with zero crossing to drive a triac for a dimmer version soon. With a little capacitive transformerless power suppy for it.

    The one i threw together today is just using a small transistor switching a relay.

    As your going non-isolated with the cap dropper circuit, you could just use a 1MOhm resistor for your zero cross detector :eek: Its done quite often in some designs from the far east. I prefer to use an opto to bring in the zero cross, then on the output side use drive an optical triac to drive the main triac.

    I remember about 15 years ago writing the assembly software for a college project, it was a triac based variable speed drive for a motor. I had run the software and it worked fine with a signal generator as the zero cross input. But when we hooked up all the hardware in the lab the thing would just go crazy. After about 10 mins I coped that the lab had more than one phase, the zero cross was on one phase and the load on another. Plugged the zero cross out of one socked and into the same as the load and it ran away perfect!


Advertisement