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TechnoFreek

[Deleted User] wrote: »

Thanks guys, plenty of spares around too so another Naomi on the way, going tate on the next one while the chop process and disassemble/reassemble is fresh in my head

Mozie, have you or were you looking in to a Naomi mobo and net dimm setup?

Hoping to do the same myself. Have a few bits in the way over from Japan. Want it mostly to run atomiswave games on my atomiswave cab. Cheaper option than getting atomiswave mobo and carts.

TechnoFreek

TechnoFreek wrote: »

Mozie, have you or were you looking in to a Naomi mobo and net dimm setup?

Hoping to do the same myself. Have a few bits in the way over from Japan. Want it mostly to run atomiswave games on my atomiswave cab. Cheaper option than getting atomiswave mobo and carts.

This one has a non-net dimm flashed with the 4.02 firmware so it can support a cf drive in place of the gdrom, theres guides on building the adapter online and then its only a matter of using a program called NaomiCF to transfer the bin files to the cards. You do need an ID number off the cf cards though which is unique to each card and can only be read through an IDE connection, so I nabbed an old pc from recycling centre. Once you get the number you can write it on the back of the card and just use a standard memory card reader for transferring bins from there on in. I've had a couple of netdimm setups before, they work great particularly if you run them off a pi, just make sure the firmware is 4.02 or can be updated to it, anything below 3.17 firmware on the netdimm cant be updated without removing a chip to flash it, anything after can be via a network cable

TechnoFreek

Thanks. I have a mobo, net dimm with 3.17 supposedly on the way. Two separate purchases.

I also took a punt on an untested "junk" Capcom io. It was less than half the usual selling price, hopefully it pays off. I figured not too much can go wrong with one of those compared to mobo or pcb say.

o1s1n

Question for any sparks out there..

I'm messing about with Wemo wireless switches and the Amazon Echo/Alexa.

So far I've the stereo and an electric stove switching on with voice commands.

I'd love to do the same with my cabs, but am not too sure if a Wemo plug could handle two machines booting simultaneously.

Apparently they can handle 1800 watts. What do you reckon?

I can't really have them both on separate plugs as both machines are powered from one Airlink step down.

The Last Bandit

I'd be more concerned with switching on an electric cooker than the cabs with one of those !!
1800 watts isn't a lot for a cooker and they are more of an inductive load which don't work well with crappy little relays.

o1s1n

The Last Bandit wrote: »

I'd be more concerned with switching on an electric cooker than the cabs with one of those !!
1800 watts isn't a lot for a cooker and they are more of an inductive load which don't work well with crappy little relays.

Electric heating stove, not cooking stove!

Not sure if automation is quite at 'alexa, make me my dinner!' yet.

o1s1n

o1s1n wrote: »

Electric heating stove, not cooking stove!

I'd still be worried about fire.
That sort off stuff is not meant to be used with high load appliances.
Imagine you out and that came on by fault and was pointed at you couch or something?

You should never use plug in timers/switches,watt meters ,extension leads etc with anything whit a heating element.

Optimus Prime

I've elgato eve plugs and use them with Apple home.

I turn on my two pins with one and 3 cabs with the other. I've philips hue bulbs all over my house so have themes setup. Like if I select the pinball theme all lights in the kitchen go to 5% brightness , some go red some go blue , lights strips over the kitchen counters go red and blue and the pins power on.

The plugs never had an issue turning on the 3 cabs in an extension block in one plug.

o1s1n

BrownFinger wrote: »

I'd still be worried about fire.
That sort off stuff is not meant to be used with high load appliances.
Imagine you out and that came on by fault and was pointed at you couch or something?

You should never use plug in timers/switches,watt meters ,extension leads etc with anything whit a heating element.

Noted! There goes my 'Alexa, play some smooth Barry White, light the fire and set some mood lighting' voice control

Optimus Prime wrote: »

I've elgato eve plugs and use them with Apple home.

I turn on my two pins with one and 3 cabs with the other. I've philips hue bulbs all over my house so have themes setup. Like if I select the pinball theme all lights in the kitchen go to 5% brightness , some go red some go blue , lights strips over the kitchen counters go red and blue and the pins power on.

The plugs never had an issue turning on the 3 cabs in an extension block in one plug.

Cheers man! That's kind of what I'm looking to do, want to set up an arcade theme with some hue bulbs and link in the machines too.

Maybe have the stereo turn on too and pump out Separate Ways by Journey

Optimus Prime

Yeh works great for arcade themes etc. I've hue bulbs and motion sensors all over my house now. Been buying them gradually the last two years. The hue go lights are great as well and the light strips.

eddhorse

Optimus Prime wrote: »

Yeh works great for arcade themes etc. I've hue bulbs and motion sensors all over my house now. Been buying them gradually the last two years. The hue go lights are great as well and the light strips.

Sounds great, got any links to where you got them or is it "shop around".
Every time i looked into it, it was a minefield of different ones

Optimus Prime

I bought them on amazon. You need a hub for the lights. There are starter packs you can get with three bulbs and a hub. I've bought them in sales over the years. Like prime day a couple of weeks ago the starter packs where reduced to 89 sterling from the normal 149. Just keep checking amazon for reductions. They go down in price regularly.

The elgato eve plugs are 45 each but are Apple HomeKit compatible which is what I use as my main control for everything. You use an iPad that's always in your house as the home thing then can talk to Siri to turn stuff on and off if you want but to be honest I never do. Most of my lights come on with motion sensors now in each room when you walk in and are programmed to go off after 15 minutes.

The bedrooms don't have motion sensors though as you don't want the lights coming on while you roll over in bed at night ! So I've remotes on the walls in those rooms , or anyone can use their phone to do them.

eddhorse

Impressive, thanks for the info.

BGOllie

I'm looking for a router bit for cutting t moulding grooves , anyone know a good brand/type ?

I think groovey game gear works out the best even with shipping from USA

BGOllie

thanks . just ordered one.

CathalDublin

Bit late now but
http://www.joystick-arcade.com/fr/outils-pour-aplication-t-molding/344-fraise-circulaire-a-rainurer-2mm-pour-installation-de-t-molding.html

BGOllie

Donkey kong cab progress : structure pretty much done, cut a whole and made a box to light up the marquee (not in the original) , grooves cut, cut a piece of metal for the panel .

The Last Bandit

You're lucky in not a Pacman cab you're building !!

http://m.sfgate.com/crime/article/Prosecutors-6-charged-with-making-fake-Pac-Man-11749616.php

BGOllie

wow . that's messed up. I feel there's more to the story though than a bunch of diyers making replica cabs for themselves

BGOllie

Still got tons of cosmetic work to do (marquee light, wood laminate sides, t molding, speaker and coin door holes & monitor bezel area) but it's functional

BGOllie

scratchg build update... just needs a coin door now

Mitchomagic

I have coin doors if you need any ?

BGOllie

looking for a nintendo coin door for this one if you have any

...now that I think of it I was supposed to pick up a couple of monitors from ya wasn't I ?

BGOllie

...and FINALY!!
got this guy to finally boot up. Bad fujitsu RAM on the cpu board :
now I can start the restore

moonlighting

how did you figure out it was the ram

BGOllie

So I had already tested voltages at all connectors and ground mod had already been done. So I assumed the issue wasn't coming from that.
I also ruled out the display as I got to test it fine on another pin.

The display control board had a blown zener dione so I replaced it a while back but still no boot.

So my last call was on the cpu board.
The battery had already been socketed and tested fine.
I replaced and socketed the U11 chip which can fail and cause booting issues ... still no boot

So I took the board thinking I was going to probe each chip starting from the CPUs.
I saw that the ram was a fujitsu equivalent of the required 6264LP mentioned on the schematics. I've had bad experience with fujitsu chips (multiplexers mostly but also other types) and they seem to be known for their high failure rate.
So before I even go at the board with an IC probe I decided to take the ram our and replace it with a Hyundai 6264LP, socketed it and it's now booting fine. yay!!

... it's been a few emotional months

but now the fun part of the restoration begins

Mitchomagic

BGOllie wrote: »

looking for a nintendo coin door for this one if you have any

...now that I think of it I was supposed to pick up a couple of monitors from ya wasn't I ?

Don't think I have a Nintendo coin door,will have s look and yes the monitors are here looking lost waiting on there new owner!!! Also have the board you wanted

o1s1n

Anyone see this from Ronnie the other day?

Always wanted an Aero Table...but that price :eek:

SEGA AERO Table



Wiring : Jamma
Original screen 26 inch (nanao/tishiba) ,good condition no visible burn-in
All Original parts
Condition : Overall good, some paintchips and scratches
Price : 2295 euro

Links for photos :

http://www.rklok.nl/pics/Stock/2908Aerotable%20(1).jpg
http://www.rklok.nl/pics/Stock/2908Aerotable%20(2).jpg
http://www.rklok.nl/pics/Stock/2908Aerotable%20(3).jpg

airmax87

^^ They look cool but I always wondered if your back/neck would be knackered after playing a tabletop setups for a while