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Arcade Talk 24/7/365

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  • Registered Users Posts: 5,790 ✭✭✭Jack burton


    Went through a few more fuses tonight and no more progress.

    I'm almost sure it's a monitor chassis issue so I'll take it out tomorrow and give it a clean, use a slow blow fuse and see what's what then.


  • Registered Users Posts: 9,027 ✭✭✭Doge


    Inside Fukushima's red zone: Eerie photos show abandoned SEGA arcade 'covered in radioactive dust' in off-limits area near nuclear power plant

    https://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-6751071/Inside-Fukushimas-red-zone-Abandoned-SEGA-arcade-covered-radioactive-dust.html


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,482 ✭✭✭Kidchameleon


    Jesus that is amazing, probably a few treasures there worth getting cancer for :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 9,027 ✭✭✭Doge


    Jesus that is amazing, probably a few treasures there worth getting cancer for :)

    Looks like ,I was beaten to it by Cosmic Smash:

    https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=109545067&postcount=554

    He even went to the effort of posting pictures!


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,671 ✭✭✭Inviere


    There's an episode of Dark Tourist, not sure exactly which one, but he goes into that arcade for a few moments, pretty cool.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 34,930 ✭✭✭✭o1s1n
    Master of the Universe


    Would love to go in there with a drill and crack open all those cabs, am sure there are some amazing PCBs inside.

    Quick run through a dishwasher to get rid of the fallout dust.. :pac:


  • Registered Users Posts: 34,930 ✭✭✭✭o1s1n
    Master of the Universe


    Anyone ever come across a quick change gate for an arcade stick? I've one on my Micomsoft stick but haven't seen one for a cab before.

    I've my Pony set up with a 4 way gate on player 1 and an 8 way on player 2.

    Means I can play the classics vertical multiboard properly with a 4 way stick and then the rest of my shmups as player 2 with an 8 way. (Kinda works as the player 2 position is more central when playing vertical shmups)

    Problem is, when someone pops over we want to play 2 player Mercs or something similar, one gate is 4 way and really awkward and almost unplayable! Would be great to be able to twist the player 1 stick or something to change it to an 8 way gate.


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,671 ✭✭✭Inviere


    o1s1n wrote: »
    Anyone ever come across a quick change gate for an arcade stick? I've one on my Micomsoft stick but haven't seen one for a cab before.

    I've my Pony set up with a 4 way gate on player 1 and an 8 way on player 2.

    Means I can play the classics vertical multiboard properly with a 4 way stick and then the rest of my shmups as player 2 with an 8 way. (Kinda works as the player 2 position is more central when playing vertical shmups)

    Problem is, when someone pops over we want to play 2 player Mercs or something similar, one gate is 4 way and really awkward and almost unplayable! Would be great to be able to twist the player 1 stick or something to change it to an 8 way gate.

    No links for you, but I’m certain I’ve seen ones that were electrically switched before, so you don’t even have to open up the cp to change gates.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,722 ✭✭✭The Last Bandit


    This is what you're looking for, I think I saw a Mame frontend plugin for it that automatically changes the gate depending on the game.

    http://www.ultimarc.com/servostik.html


  • Registered Users Posts: 9,027 ✭✭✭Doge


    There is also the less fancier Mag Stick Plus which allows you to change the gate by pulling up and rotating the joystick as you said.


    http://www.ultimarc.com/controls.htm

    I was very close to buying 2 of these for my cab but wasn't sold by the magnetic centering stick. Sounded a bit more clunky than the Sanwas.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 5,790 ✭✭✭Jack burton


    I didn't get a chance to take out that chassis in the Cyberlead, probably won't over the weekend either, I'm pretty busy.

    I do have a fluke multimeter on the way to me though from a fried so I'll be able to get accurate readings with that. I'm sure I'll sort it out.

    Real question is how do I approach it with Ronnie? I paid him with PayPal so at least theres that. But not to be a dickhead but I bought it working and it's not


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,802 ✭✭✭geotrig


    The problem is he can say the same. I.e that he shipped it working and that same was caused by end user plugging it in incorrectly. So just be mindful on wording. This is why I've always hated selling pcbs on eBay.
    My advice would be to determine what is causing it to shortout 1st,things get loosened and jolted about in shipping if a "repair "is needed see will he will cover the fix, he has offered different things in the past to sort things so may not be unreasonable.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,790 ✭✭✭Jack burton


    geotrig wrote: »
    The problem is he can say the same. I.e that he shipped it working and that same was caused by end user plugging it in incorrectly. So just be mindful on wording. This is why I've always hated selling pcbs on eBay.
    My advice would be to determine what is causing it to shortout 1st,things get loosened and jolted about in shipping if a "repair "is needed see will he will cover the fix, he has offered different things in the past to sort things so may not be unreasonable.

    Yeah I'll have to get it sorted out first off, I'll get the chassis off tomorrow night hopefully and get it washed.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,920 ✭✭✭TechnoFreek


    Ronnie clearly sells a lot of cabs and I'm sure many of those to customers that have far less technical troubleshooting shooting skills than you Jack. Plus these cabs are 10 to 20 years old and have seen plenty of action.

    I can only imagine the f*ckery from absolute dopes he's had to deal with.

    Aa mentioned, a carefully worded letter documenting your genuine attempts to fault find will hopefully yield a positive outcome.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,802 ✭✭✭geotrig


    I'd personally hold off washing it, I'm not o fan of it TBH( and even when I worked in an electronics place before compressed air and brushes was all we used to clean boards) I'd pull the chassis dust clean off check for any blown chips and any wire cable ghat got disconnected ,abajillion pics and connect it all back up and see how that goes


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,920 ✭✭✭TechnoFreek


    geotrig wrote: »
    I'd personally hold off washing it, I'm not o fan of it TBH( and even when I worked in an electronics place before compressed air and brushes was all we used to clean boards)

    Yeah, I'd be the same. Just wouldn't chance it and Ronnie would likely take a dim view of it if you decide to go back to him on it


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,781 ✭✭✭eddhorse


    Doge wrote: »
    There is also the less fancier Mag Stick Plus which allows you to change the gate by pulling up and rotating the joystick as you said.


    http://www.ultimarc.com/controls.htm

    I was very close to buying 2 of these for my cab but wasn't sold by the magnetic centering stick. Sounded a bit more clunky than the Sanwas.

    Also the Servo stick.
    https://www.ultimarc.com/servostik.html

    servostik_base.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 9,027 ✭✭✭Doge


    eddhorse wrote: »

    Yeah that's the one The Last Bandit linked to originally.

    Tis a clever little device.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,790 ✭✭✭Jack burton


    Got the chassis out anyway.

    What's the verdict?

    IZY7lSX.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,802 ✭✭✭geotrig


    looks ok for the back of a chassis :pac: give it a good dusting off removing any debris check all wiring and if it has continuity ,especiall because of the tape ,check the other wiring internally to make sure noting is loose etc, check the chassis parts side for any burnt out chips . after that hook it back up and recheck all wiring to make sure nothing shorting or causing it to trip.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 5,790 ✭✭✭Jack burton


    geotrig wrote: »
    looks ok for the back of a chassis :pac: give it a good dusting off removing any debris check all wiring and if it has continuity ,especiall because of the tape ,check the other wiring internally to make sure noting is loose etc, check the chassis parts side for any burnt out chips . after that hook it back up and recheck all wiring to make sure nothing shorting or causing it to trip.
    I gave it a clean last night, did a few checks. I never copped the tape could be hiding something so I'll check that out too.

    I already emailed Ronnie to see if he has a replacement chassis or if I'll get this repaired and he covers the cost. Because my soldering skills are pretty basic, not to mention that my time is pretty limited, and I'll probably need to get it sent away for anything that really needs to be done to it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,790 ✭✭✭Jack burton


    geotrig wrote: »
    looks ok for the back of a chassis :pac: give it a good dusting off removing any debris check all wiring and if it has continuity ,especiall because of the tape ,check the other wiring internally to make sure noting is loose etc, check the chassis parts side for any burnt out chips . after that hook it back up and recheck all wiring to make sure nothing shorting or causing it to trip.
    I gave it a clean last night, did a few checks. I never copped the tape could be hiding something so I'll check that out too.

    I already emailed Ronnie to see if he has a replacement chassis or if I'll get this repaired and he covers the cost. Because my soldering skills are pretty basic, not to mention that my time is pretty limited, and I'll probably need to get it sent away for anything that really needs to be done to it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,802 ✭✭✭geotrig


    I gave it a clean last night, did a few checks. I never copped the tape could be hiding something so I'll check that out too.

    I already emailed Ronnie to see if he has a replacement chassis or if I'll get this repaired and he covers the cost. Because my soldering skills are pretty basic, not to mention that my time is pretty limited, and I'll probably need to get it sent away for anything that really needs to be done to it.

    perfect course of action at least this way it leaves the ball in his court, might be worth a reconnect to to do one final test as things can get jiggled around when being transported and knocked out of place.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,790 ✭✭✭Jack burton


    geotrig wrote: »
    perfect course of action at least this way it leaves the ball in his court, might be worth a reconnect to to do one final test as things can get jiggled around when being transported and knocked out of place.

    That's my plan for today, want to just get a bit of compressed air and blast off thelast bit of crud from through pcb


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,790 ✭✭✭Jack burton


    Still didn't get a chance to hook up the monitor.

    The chassis is being send to Grant anyway and Ronnie is paying for it so hopefully that will sort it all out.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,920 ✭✭✭TechnoFreek


    Still didn't get a chance to hook up the monitor.

    The chassis is being send to Grant anyway and Ronnie is paying for it so hopefully that will sort it all out.

    Great news


  • Posts: 7,499 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    When I bought my Blast city it arrived DOA.
    It was from that chance bag not ronnie.
    Cant remember his name.
    sent the chassis to grant also.
    Good result.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,920 ✭✭✭TechnoFreek


    When I bought my Blast city it arrived DOA.
    It was from that chace bag not ronnie.
    Cant remember his name

    Jeff?


  • Posts: 7,499 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Jeff?

    Thats him!


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  • Registered Users Posts: 34,930 ✭✭✭✭o1s1n
    Master of the Universe


    Ah yes, good oul Digitalsystemsdesign - from what I heard the cabs weren't really cleaned up at all before shipping and you were absolutely screwed if anything went wrong.


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