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MrVestek

I did say that I didn't know what I was talking about!

Would there be a way of perhaps powering the PCB and all that stuff from a 220-240v PSU and then use a seperate supply with step down for the monitor?

At least that way the stepdown isn't trying to pull too much to power the cab entirely...

Casey120

CiDeRmAn wrote: »

Who needs the drama of a war in Syria when we have O1s1n and his Pony cab woes right here!
Send in the troops!

I don't think there is anything wrong with his cab but he is being so over protective with his fancy step downs and stuff that he might end up setting the cab on fire himself :pac:

Myrddin

Achilles wrote: »

I did say that I didn't know what I was talking about!

Defensive chappie arn't you, complete with exclamation mark. All I stated was my monitors were mains powered so it is a factor. Did I berate your post, did I laugh at it, was I out of line? No, no & no. Relax a little man, we're all friends here

Steve X2

EnterNow wrote: »

Defensive chappie arn't you, complete with exclamation mark. All I stated was my monitors were mains powered so it is a factor. Did I berate your post, did I laugh at it, was I out of line? No, no & no. Relax a little man, we're all friends here

Fight! fight! fight!



Edit:

Or, as this is A&R.

Wrestle! wrestle! wrestle!

o1s1n

Casey120 wrote: »

I don't think there is anything wrong with his cab but he is being so over protective with his fancy step downs and stuff that he might end up setting the cab on fire himself :pac:

Hahahaha! - That's what I get for trying to be careful :eek:

I should really have known when it wasn't turning the marquee lights on correctly.

The guy from Airlink has asked if I can post it back to them and they'll send a replacement. Decent enough, but the feckin postage on these monsters is insane. It's a shame you can't post out of Parcel Motel.

o1s1n

EnterNow wrote: »

Both my Ridge Racer cab & Tekken 3 cabs have Polo 25's that are mains powered, so yeah I think the monitor would need to be dual voltage o1s1n

Yeah it was the same when I blew a PSU in my first cab. Only had to wire up the jamma loom, the monitor continued to take power from the AC,

Actually this is how sad I was, I continued to use the existing plug for the monitor and then wired a separate plug to the new PSU as I didn't want to tamper with anything related to the monitor (it was a bit of a masking taped mess anyway)

So the cab had two plugs - still worked though

MrVestek

Wasn't being defensive there EnterNow... as my bretherin from my home town used to say: "Heyooorr..... relaxxx deeh caxxxx deer buuuhd!"

*edit*
HADOUKEN!

Myrddin

Achilles wrote: »

Wasn't being defensive there EnterNow... as my bretherin from my home town used to say: "Heyooorr..... relaxxx deeh caxxxx deer buuuhd!"

*edit*
HADOUKEN!

Ah grand, the internet seriously needs a way to convey tone. I thought you were giving out to me

Myrddin

o1s1n wrote: »

So the cab had two plugs - still worked though

In my Mame cab, there's:

1 plug for the pc
1 plug for the 2.1 speakers
1 plug for the monitor
1 plug for the marquee light

So I ran a quad adapter inside the cab. To switch it back to jamma functionality again, I only need to connect the monitor & marquee light back to the internal psu & plug that in

o1s1n

Just assume I'm always angry 100% of the time. :pac:

:pac: = I hate all of you.

:pac::pac::pac:

Myrddin

o1s1n wrote: »

Just assume I'm always angry 100% of the time. :pac:

:pac: = I hate all of you.

:pac::pac::pac:

But then you'd be Achilles

MrVestek

EnterNow wrote: »

But then you'd be Achilles

Nah he'll never be this sexy!

inb4 15 year old pic of me with my thumbs up.

o1s1n

EnterNow wrote: »

In my Mame cab, there's:

1 plug for the pc
1 plug for the 2.1 speakers
1 plug for the monitor
1 plug for the marquee light

So I ran a quad adapter inside the cab. To switch it back to jamma functionality again, I only need to connect the monitor & marquee light back to the internal psu & plug that in

Ah jaysus! Hahaha. I thought a man like yourself would have them all running off one plug

Actually, that first cab I had with the two plugs - it had a third for a brief while for the marquee light.

And I use the term 'marquee light' very loosely. There was none. So I took the plexiglass off, got one of those outside garden lights, lashed it in and ran the cable out the back of the cab.

EnterNow wrote: »

But then you'd be Achilles

Perish the thought! :eek:

Myrddin

o1s1n wrote: »

Ah jaysus! Hahaha. I thought a man like yourself would have them all running off one plug

Nah, the quad adapter takes care of things better for surge protection etc. At least everything is fused separately then, rather than having one huge fuse for it all.

Jack burton

OK I redid my speaker connections, sound is better but still a little off, anything else it could be?

MrVestek

Sure the cab I built has two gang thingy inside it. I wouldn't worry about it too much!

KeRbDoG

EnterNow wrote: »

Was going to suggest this myself. Is it expensive to convert a cab to 220v?

Depends on the components in the cab;

• Monitor - biggest power draw, if your lucky the monitor might be a already have a 100~240VAC switching PSU like the original monitor in the AtomiswaveSD cabs. If your not lucky, then you might need to replace the monitor which is crazy money and madness.
• PSU for the game boards - if its stock its most likely not a 100~240VAC switching PSU but they are easily replaced with a switching PSU which will even give you a -5V rail. Someone already hacked one into Ciderman's cab (not very well I might add, will fit it up better when I get time) so its easily done.
• Marquee light - these are normally a 100~110V AC fluorescent ballast unit. The ballast could be replaced (never done this though) OR the whole fluorescent light tube with a 220V~ (with transformer) LED unit instead

OR you do what Jeff the UK guy selling cabs does. The Universal Naomi cabs are all 100~110V units. The JAP/US and even the EU ones. The EU one have a massive step-down transformer stuffed in the base unit which you can clearly see when you open one up. You could just find one of those stepdowns and hard wire it directly into your cab. Its a bit of a monister of a stepdown but specificially for running a JAP cab on 220V~.
The AtomiswaveSD cab I got for my work place had this mod done...but there is a problem. The bottom of the picture on the monitor wobbles Why? The EU Universal Naomi cab bottom box where these stepdowns live, act as a Faraday Cage so the magnetic field generated by the transformer never reaches the 'sensitive to magnetic fields' monitor. An AtomiswaveSD and many other Candy cabs have no cage between the open box at the bottom of the cab to the monitors tube. If you have a standard Candy cab, you will prob note that the JAMMA PSU might be in its down box/cage? Thats to stop the interference getting to the monitor.

MrVestek

Need a cheap faraday cage? Chicken wire!

KeRbDoG

Achilles wrote: »

Need a cheap faraday cage? Chicken wire!

You would really need a better cage than that I'd say

CiDeRmAn

KeRbDoG wrote: »

You would really need a better cage than that I'd say

A Nicolas Cage perhaps?

Myrddin

CiDeRmAn wrote: »

A Nicolas Cage perhaps?

MrVestek

How about a farandaway cage?

The Last Bandit

I have to sort myself one of these !!

MrVestek

That looks like a barrel of laughs!

Andrew76

Looks like I missed some handbags at dawn. :pac: (<-- standard, non-o1s1n meaning)

o1s1n wrote: »

I've measured voltage on boards with a multimeter, but have no clue how to do it on a step down. Any ideas?

Set your multimeter to measure voltage, insert the black probe into the top (ground) hole in the stepdown and the red probe into either of the bottom holes.

o1s1n

Andrew76 wrote: »

Looks like I missed some handbags at dawn. :pac: (<-- standard, non-o1s1n meaning)



Set your multimeter to measure voltage, insert the black probe into the top (ground) hole in the stepdown and the red probe into either of the bottom holes.

Cheers man. I find the idea of probing the 'scary power holes*' terrifying :eek:




*awaits Ciderman's double entendre

Andrew76

o1s1n wrote: »

Cheers man. I find the idea of probing the 'scary power holes*' terrifying :eek:




*awaits Ciderman's double entendre

Nah you can't kill yourself doing that. Sure it's only half the voltage coming out of the wall itself and don't all kids jam forks in there and live to tell the tale. Worst you can do is set the multimeter to read something other than Voltage and blow it up.

I did it myself a while back to check the voltage coming out of my original stepdown, was 115V or something.

o1s1n

I guess if I jam the probes in before switching anything on the worst that can happen is I'll be picking pieces of a melted multimeter out of my face.

Will give that a go. The guys over on AO reckon it could be the mains under supplying -

markedkiller78 wrote:

Yep, you need to check your mains voltage. I've heard of people having 247v at the plug :problem:

From Yahoo answers of all places:

Some while ago, the specifications were changed (230V +10%, -6%) to allow harmonisation across Europe.

So, 216.2 v to 253v! is acceptable in the UK.

The Last Bandit

:eek:

CathalDublin

The Last Bandit wrote: »

I have to sort myself one of these !!

That is mental, no excuse for using an LCD though!