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Arcade Talk 24/7/365

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  • Registered Users Posts: 34,956 ✭✭✭✭o1s1n
    Master of the Universe


    Ever keep putting off a task as it seems like it's going to be a lot of effort? Well that was me with the new Candy control panel.

    Finally got off my lazy ass and switched it around this evening.

    It's hard to see in the photos, but the old CP was grimey and had a good few marks on it. New one is brand new, looks like it's never been used! :)

    Off with the old:
    DSC_0481_zpsdb2224e2.jpg

    Almost there!

    DSC_0484_zps6af8cd3a.jpg

    Whey! Can actually play SNK fighters properly now. Last Blade parry here I come :D

    DSC_0485_zpsa7e3f0ca.jpg

    It's so new that you can still feel the textured finish to those little orangy lines

    DSC_0487_zpsabc967f7.jpg

    Hah! Was just putting the old CP back in the box and found the original instruction layout for it. Turns out it's the original shipping box it came in. Also noticed that the CP has it's original factory plastic film over it, definitely never been used

    DSC_0488_zps4ec51cb0.jpg

    DSC_0489_zps23e6abc2.jpg

    Gave it a quick blast, absolutely lovely. Much more comfortable to play with. If you look at the original panel, The main buttons were much closer to the edge (and your hand was hanging off)


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Computer Games Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 34,605 CMod ✭✭✭✭CiDeRmAn


    Glad you paid attention to your knob.
    The yellow one simply didn't look right.
    There's a lesson there for all of us I think.....


  • Registered Users Posts: 34,956 ✭✭✭✭o1s1n
    Master of the Universe


    Not sure if Ciderdude is making a dirty joke or genuinely doesn't like yellow ball tops... :D

    When I was mounting the new CP, I had to unscrew the sticks from the old control panel and screw them to the new CP without removing the wiring to the cab.

    For some reason the wire connects are absolutely jammed on. Sliced my finger trying to remove one, so thought it was best to leave them as they are for the moment. Cab doesn't seem to be ready to say bye to it's old sticks yet :D

    Had a benefit though, meant I could replace the remaining dodgy stick on my Pony with a functioning one and also use the old style mounting plate. Result! Save me the price of a new stick and mounting plate.


  • Registered Users Posts: 34,956 ✭✭✭✭o1s1n
    Master of the Universe


    From AO. Must be the ugliest cab I've ever seen.

    The Bezel!
    The Apple ****!
    The trackball mouse!
    The feckin sticks with buttons on them!

    Argh!!!!

    Completed.jpg


  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 10,408 Mod ✭✭✭✭Andrew76


    Those stickers on the bezel look like screenshots of Mac application windows complete with scroll bars?? :confused:

    I like the new CP you got btw, looks lovely and good that you can rest you hand on the cp now.


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  • Posts: 7,499 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Ah lads,
    Give him a break!

    Over 400 games is not to be sniffed at


  • Registered Users Posts: 34,956 ✭✭✭✭o1s1n
    Master of the Universe


    Ahhhh! That's what the little boxes are on the bezel. I didn't notice the scroll bars - thought they were just white pieces of paper. :D

    Cheers re the CP, that little bit of extra hand room makes all the difference!


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Computer Games Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 34,605 CMod ✭✭✭✭CiDeRmAn


    If that cab swapped out the sticks for proper ones, drilled out the buttons and fitted better ones and then replaced the lousy domestic trackball with an arcade one....
    new bezel art too... Could work ok, no?


  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 10,408 Mod ✭✭✭✭Andrew76


    CiDeRmAn wrote: »
    If that cab swapped out the sticks for proper ones, drilled out the buttons and fitted better ones and then replaced the lousy domestic trackball with an arcade one....
    new bezel art too... Could work ok, no?

    Ah yeah, the actual wooden cab itself looks grand. Just the strange artwork and control panel that needs changing imo. Hopefully there's some scanlines going on with that LCD too. :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 30,123 ✭✭✭✭Star Lord


    o1s1n wrote: »
    From AO. Must be the ugliest cab I've ever seen.

    The Bezel!
    The Apple ****!
    The trackball mouse!
    The feckin sticks with buttons on them!

    Argh!!!!

    http://www.patricklewis.net/mame/images/Completed.jpg

    If it's Mac... shouldn't it have just one button? :pac:


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  • Registered Users Posts: 34,956 ✭✭✭✭o1s1n
    Master of the Universe


    CiDeRmAn wrote: »
    If that cab swapped out the sticks for proper ones, drilled out the buttons and fitted better ones and then replaced the lousy domestic trackball with an arcade one....
    new bezel art too... Could work ok, no?

    Yep! If you look at the cab, there are tell tale signs that it's a mamed jamma cab. Which makes it even more obscene! :D

    If it's Mac... shouldn't it have just one button? :pac:

    One button titled 'self destruct' :pac:


  • Registered Users Posts: 34,956 ✭✭✭✭o1s1n
    Master of the Universe


    Check out the Neo 50 cab for sale over on UKvac! :eek:

    http://www.ukvac.com/forum/neo-50-arcade-machine_topic335142_page1.html


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,722 ✭✭✭The Last Bandit


    Not much chance of slipping that past the missus !!!


  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 10,408 Mod ✭✭✭✭Andrew76


    Not much chance of slipping that past the missus !!!

    Sure you're hardly going to bring it in through the kitchen are you? :p

    That's some cab he has, monster. Some great boards too.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,790 ✭✭✭Jack burton


    Thats a serious cab, central london aswell. £500 is what the first chap was saying, too bad the monitor has burn in. Still no way to fix that is there?


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,876 ✭✭✭Steve X2


    What games should I be playing on my new GNet?

    It should arrive today or tomorrow so i want to have a quick blast of the best ones before I head away for the weekend, to a wedding i don't want to go to, in a place i don't want to go to :0)
    G-Darius I know but are there other decent games worth playing right away?


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Computer Games Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 34,605 CMod ✭✭✭✭CiDeRmAn


    XII Stag is pretty great on the GNet.


  • Registered Users Posts: 34,956 ✭✭✭✭o1s1n
    Master of the Universe


    There was an E2 and Astro on AO for sale for £400 each :eek:

    http://forum.arcadeotaku.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=25426


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,876 ✭✭✭Steve X2


    So it seems I need to adjust the +5v on my Egret 3 psu to get my new GNet to work. I've not adjusted it before so anyone got any tips on doing so? Are there just some pots I need to turn or is there more to it?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 33,733 ✭✭✭✭Myrddin


    Should be just a pot labelled as 5v, hook up a multimeter to the 5v output & adjust it slowly until in range


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  • Registered Users Posts: 34,956 ✭✭✭✭o1s1n
    Master of the Universe


    Steve SI wrote: »
    So it seems I need to adjust the +5v on my Egret 3 psu to get my new GNet to work. I've not adjusted it before so anyone got any tips on doing so? Are there just some pots I need to turn or is there more to it?

    Depends on thr PSU. Some of those fancy after.market ones have a digital display with the reading.

    It not, you'll need to hook a multimeter up to the Gnet before you start twiddling knobs (if your PSU has knobs to twiddle! some dont)

    As far as I know there's also a bit of a voltage drop off when reading from the game board with a multimeter. So be careful in that regard. Dont want to cook the Gnet!


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,876 ✭✭✭Steve X2


    Cheers guys, I'll have a careful play with it later on this evening.

    Edit:
    Does this look accurate to you's?
    ixii.jpg


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 33,733 ✭✭✭✭Myrddin


    I've always checked the 5v directly from the output of the psu itself, rather than the game board.


  • Registered Users Posts: 34,956 ✭✭✭✭o1s1n
    Master of the Universe


    EnterNow wrote: »
    I've always checked the 5v directly from the output of the psu itself, rather than the game board.

    Makes sense to go for the source :)

    The only time I needed to do it was when my 6 slot MVS board wasn't getting enough juice (power hungry monsters so they are!)

    I put one probe on the +5v from the harness and the other on a ground point on the 6 slot. Turns out it wasn't getting the correct +5v at all.

    Raised the voltage to a point where the board started working. I think it came to about +5.1v or +5.2v.


  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 10,408 Mod ✭✭✭✭Andrew76


    @Steve - iirc you're still using the original Wei-Ya style PSU in the candy and there was no cage covering it? There'll be 3 green dials on the front of it: +3v, +12v and +5v. (Think the +3v is for JVS but you don't need to worry about that obv). I can't remember which position the +5v is at but they're marked anyway - just need to get out the magnifying glass. Philips head screwdriver to adjust it by very small amounts. That's what I did with mne anyway.

    I think I did the opposite of EnterNow and measured under load (with a board connected). Different boards pull different amounts from memory so bang on +5v for one PCB might not be the same for another. Those G-Nets are picky feckers from what I've heard too. Just adjust in tiny increments and you'll be fine.

    Yes that Jamma pinout is fine for the +5v position.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,722 ✭✭✭The Last Bandit


    As above, measure the voltage with the board connected and at the 5V pins on the boards Jamma connector.

    You'd be surprised how much of a voltage you'll get across the cables & connectors if they're old or corroded in any way.


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,876 ✭✭✭Steve X2


    Andrew76 wrote: »
    @Steve - iirc you're still using the original Wei-Ya style PSU in the candy and there was no cage covering it? There'll be 3 green dials on the front of it: +3v, +12v and +5v. (Think the +3v is for JVS but you don't need to worry about that obv). I can't remember which position the +5v is at but they're marked anyway - just need to get out the magnifying glass. Philips head screwdriver to adjust it by very small amounts. That's what I did with mne anyway.

    I think I did the opposite of EnterNow and measured under load (with a board connected). Different boards pull different amounts from memory so bang on +5v for one PCB might not be the same for another. Those G-Nets are picky feckers from what I've heard too. Just adjust in tiny increments and you'll be fine.

    Yes that Jamma pinout is fine for the +5v position.

    I've found this old pic on my iPhone, but its the same psu as I've not changed it yet.
    3 green dials at the front as you said. So I just connect the multimeter (any ideas which settings on that?) and adjust the dial slowly and test the GNet until it powers up?

    Thanks for the help guys, don't want to kill my new GNet, it would be a sin as its Pyongys old modded one :)

    dhxf.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 34,956 ✭✭✭✭o1s1n
    Master of the Universe


    Have a read through this tutorial or one of the videos before you do anything.

    Try reading the voltage on a battery first :)

    https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/how-to-use-a-multimeter/parts-of-a-multimeter


  • Registered Users Posts: 9,216 ✭✭✭MrVestek


    Don't take care when adjusting the pot just go mental with it.

    Nothing will go wrong. At all. Ever.

    Nothing will go on fire... probably.


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  • Moderators, Computer Games Moderators Posts: 10,408 Mod ✭✭✭✭Andrew76


    Yep those are the dials.

    I'm assuming here that your cab is working fine with another board plugged in? As in the +5v voltage is in and around 5 or there abouts (mine is above irrc).

    If so then plug the G-Net into the Jamma loom as normal, turn on the cab. Turn on the multi-meter and set it to 20V setting (or closest to it), black cable should be plugged into the 'COM' port, red into the other. Touch the end of the black probe to a GND pin on the G-Net's jamma edge, put the red one on the +5v. Check the voltage. (Doesn't matter if you put black on +5 and red on GND, you'll just get a negative reading.)

    Adjust the +5v green dial by a very small amount, check voltage to see if it's changed by much. Rinse and repeat til you get it working.

    Just remember - if/when you plug back in another board - you might need to re-adjust the voltage if the G-Net is a good bit off the +5v.

    Similar to o1s1n's link, this is a great video on multimeter use:



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