Finally converted my 35-80mm, great cheap macro lens

steve_

So i got a 35-80mm lens with a camera i bought a while ago. I didnt have any use for it as i already had a better lens to cover its focal range. I stumbled across an article online showing how you can convert this lens simply by removing the from element. So i went and did that and was blown away by the results. So now iv a macro lens that i got for free. Nice!!

Heres some shots i took about two minutes after the conversion


Master Chief 2" figure


Master Chief 2


Master Chief 3


My Watch


Playstation controller

dinneenp

can you share the link please?
is it easy to convert?
i want to explore the macro world...

11811

I've done this myself, tis pretty cool. Really all there is to it is removing the front element on the cheapo 35-80mm canon lens.

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=190428

dinneenp

any idea if this works with other lenses of just this?

11811

Im unsure to be honest and wouldn't want to mis-inform you about it. Im sure if you google it there might be some info. I've only come across it one the canon, but I wouldn't be looking at any thing else.

steve_

the process is very easy just remove the 3 screws holding the front element in place and your good to go. What i did was unscrew the front element and smash out the glass, leaving just the plastic casing behind. Then i reattached the plastic casing to the lens and put a filter on it to stop dust from getting in.

steve_

Heres a few more shots

Sharpener:



Screw on the sharpener:



Grains of salt on a salt shaker:



10 cent:



Zoomed 10 cent:




One thing i noticed is that light is key. Because you get so close to the subject you tend to cast it into shadow and the fact you need to stop down to about f16 or f22 in order to get increased DOF, a bright light source is essential. I used a bright desk lamp to illuminate the subject but ideally when im outside shooting id like to have a speedlight to better illuminate the subject

StopNotWorking

Jealous, going to eventually buy some cheap extension tubes for my 50mm f 1.8, I heard that's good with tubes. Either that or I'll try my 70-300mm sigma "macro" with a tube

steve_

The 35-80mm is very inexpensive. Cheaper then extension tubes id reckon

StopNotWorking

steve_ wrote: »

The 35-80mm is very inexpensive. Cheaper then extension tubes id reckon

Filthy cheap & dirty basic extension tubes

They get the job done so I hear, got some good scare stories about them getting stuck on bodies though :eek:

Kenny Logins

steve_ wrote: »

One thing i noticed is that light is key. Because you get so close to the subject you tend to cast it into shadow and the fact you need to stop down to about f16 or f22 in order to get increased DOF, a bright light source is essential. I used a bright desk lamp to illuminate the subject but ideally when im outside shooting id like to have a speedlight to better illuminate the subject

Have you tried the highest possible f-number, at 100 ISO with a tripod? Looooong exposure.

I'd be curious to see how that worked out.

steve_

i was shooting handheld as i dont own a tripod yet but im sure the results would be much better with long exposures and a tiny aperture

dinneenp

StopNotWorking wrote: »

Filthy cheap & dirty basic extension tubes

They get the job done so I hear, got some good scare stories about them getting stuck on bodies though :eek:

I bought a pair of extension tubes for almost as cheap as a pint. Tried to use them maybe 3 times. Each time they got stuck to the camera body.
I went through the same routine each time-
try casually to get them off
try not to panic while at the back of my mind thinking fcuk, they're stuck
try to take them off with force, then quickly tell myself to stop
pace the room thinking fcuk, fcuk what can I do
eventually get them off; gently and using a needle instead of one of the pins.
vow never to use them again.
They're now sitting at the back of a drawer....

bullpost

You can save more money by making a homemade snoot for a speedlight from a pringles box. Works really well for macro by isolating the subject , giving a nice vignette effect.

See instructions here:
http://youtu.be/wXh89cB5Puk

steve_ wrote: »

One thing i noticed is that light is key. Because you get so close to the subject you tend to cast it into shadow and the fact you need to stop down to about f16 or f22 in order to get increased DOF, a bright light source is essential. I used a bright desk lamp to illuminate the subject but ideally when im outside shooting id like to have a speedlight to better illuminate the subject

breadbin

wow, great stuff. can't wait to see some insects and the like with this:)

an alternative is to have a look on ebay for a reverse adapter ring. i got one for about 3quid and i use it now with an old 50mm lens that was gathering dust. its v. good. basically the 50mm lens goes onto the camera backwards. wasn't expecting much for 3 quid but wow!!