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Do insulated plaster board sheets have to be skim coated or will just paint do?

  • 26-10-2011 2:48pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 206 ✭✭


    Hello,
    I am going to insulate the gable end wall in my kids bedroom, coldest room in the house, i want quick & easy job (like everyone), the wall is 10ft x 8ft, i will stick up 2 and half sheets of insulated plasterboard, is there a tape one can buy to put over the joins so i can just paint it or will the joins show tru the paint?


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,842 ✭✭✭MicktheMan


    Where are you putting the vapour control layer?


  • Registered Users Posts: 206 ✭✭wall


    Hi Mick,
    if i knew what a 'vapour control layer' was i may be able to tell you where i would stick it. :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,842 ✭✭✭MicktheMan


    Start here


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,259 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    At the very least, you will need to joint and tape the boards to cover the joints properly.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 10,140 Mod ✭✭✭✭BryanF


    MicktheMan wrote: »
    Start here
    Mick,
    that's an interesting series of posts. so (slightly off topic, but probably relevant to the OP) should any dry-lining measures that are grant aided incorporate some sort of vapour barrier and if so, how does this work with insulated plasterboard?


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  • Registered Users Posts: 206 ✭✭wall


    So, without a vapour barrier, the wall is going to get mouldy? so are tens of thousands of houses that were built or revamped over the last ten or more years mouldy now?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,842 ✭✭✭MicktheMan


    BryanF wrote: »
    Mick,
    that's an interesting series of posts. so (slightly off topic, but probably relevant to the OP) should any dry-lining measures that are grant aided incorporate some sort of vapour barrier and if so, how does this work with insulated plasterboard?


    It doesn't. And in a few years there will be grants to remove the insulated plasterboards from the mould infested houses (that is if there's any money left!).
    I asked about the vcl to highlight the issue of trapped moisture.:)
    Insulated slabs have a foil back which in effect are moisture traps when installed.
    Imo, internal drylining is a bad idea but if no other way then breathable products should only be used, with breathability increasing from (cold) wall to internal room. This would include an intelligent vcl on the warm side of the insulation, counter batton and plasterboard. More space is taken up but healthier house.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,842 ✭✭✭MicktheMan


    wall wrote: »
    So, without a vapour barrier, the wall is going to get mouldy?

    No, there is still a very high risk because of the foil on the back of the insulated slabs.
    wall wrote: »
    so are tens of thousands of houses that were built or revamped over the last ten or more years mouldy now?

    You'd be surprised how many are!
    Ask yourself this. How many houses have some/severe condensation on windows after a cold night. The same level of moisture can form at the back of the insulated slabs where it cannot dryout easily.


  • Registered Users Posts: 206 ✭✭wall


    At the very least, you will need to joint and tape the boards to cover the joints properly.[/QUOTE]
    Has anyone tried this, will the paint hide the tape or is there a special heavier paint one can use for this?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,259 ✭✭✭Buford T Justice


    wall wrote: »
    At the very least, you will need to joint and tape the boards to cover the joints properly.
    Has anyone tried this, will the paint hide the tape or is there a special heavier paint one can use for this?

    The whole idea is that it leaves the wall smooth so it can just be painted.

    Check out some of these videos and see if it helps you're understanding, but its not something you want to consider doing yourself if you're not familiar with the process.


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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 10,140 Mod ✭✭✭✭BryanF


    MicktheMan wrote: »
    It doesn't. And in a few years there will be grants to remove the insulated plasterboards from the mould infested houses (that is if there's any money left!).
    I asked about the vcl to highlight the issue of trapped moisture.:)
    Insulated slabs have a foil back which in effect are moisture traps when installed.
    Imo, internal drylining is a bad idea but if no other way then breathable products should only be used, with breathability increasing from (cold) wall to internal room. This would include an intelligent vcl on the warm side of the insulation, counter batton and plasterboard. More space is taken up but healthier house.
    i totally agree, i generally spec a variation of that, whats interesting is the term VB required on all dry-lining something I've never heard mentioned from a builder with regards to the dry-lining grants!!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,939 ✭✭✭whizbang


    most of the insulated plasterboard has vapour barrier already built in.
    If you seal ends and edges correctly the vapour cannot get through the plasterboard to cause condensation. If its coming in thro the blockwork then arent you better off sealing off the interior from this???

    If you dont tape joints they will show thro paint after a few years. but the fixings will also, and you cant really do much about that.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,842 ✭✭✭MicktheMan


    whizbang wrote: »
    If you seal ends and edges correctly

    How do you do this such that it is vapour tight?
    whizbang wrote: »
    the vapour cannot get through the plasterboard to cause condensation.
    What about hanging pictures, shelves etc or installing electrical sockets. All these will puncture the vcl and allow moisture through. Once through its trapped.
    whizbang wrote: »
    If its coming in thro the blockwork then arent you better off sealing off the interior from this???
    Absolutely not. Concealing a water ingress problem with drylining of any kind is foolish in the extreme.


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