Looking for PS3 preservation tips...

Myrddin

I've a 60GB launch model PS3, which is still working somehow. Has anyone got any good tips/ideas in relation to keeping it that way? I've heard of peoeple replacing the thermal paste etc...

Cheers for any info

Reamer Fanny

EnterNow wrote: »

I've a 60GB launch model PS3, which is still working somehow. Has anyone got any good tips/ideas in relation to keeping it that way? I've heard of peoeple replacing the thermal paste etc...

Cheers for any info

Apply a fresh layer of arctic silver 5, remove the factory gunk Sony put on it. I've tried several different compounds arctic silver 5 is by far the best, it forms a good tight seal for great thermal transfer.

Myrddin

justryan wrote: »

Apply a fresh layer of arctic silver 5, remove the factory gunk Sony put on it. I've tried several different compounds arctic silver 5 is by far the best, it forms a good tight seal for great thermal transfer.

JR, your the new TV

Not to be too noobish but is there much involved in doing this? The most work I've ever done on a PS3's innards is replacing a laser unit...

Reamer Fanny

It's very easy with the syringe in hand, just spread a thin line of it across the top of the BGAs, then with a plastic card spread it downward keeping the card firmly pressed against the BGA this way you get a nice thin layer. Do a few passes until you can't see the BGA underneath, ideally you want it to look smooth.

Edit: When you have the case open it's probably a good time to get rid of all the dust too.

TouchingVirus

Don't put too much on, a thin layer is much better for conducting heat into the heatsink

Myrddin

Cheers lads, will look into sourcing some of that so.

Are there any other tips, like can we control the fan speed manually as in the case of jtags?

Has anyone ever reballed before a problem set in, as in preventative maintenance?

Stuxnet

justryan wrote: »

Apply a fresh layer of arctic silver 5, remove the factory gunk Sony put on it. I've tried several different compounds arctic silver 5 is by far the best, it forms a good tight seal for great thermal transfer.

cheers, ill be cracking open my ps soon, will do this also !
sound :pac:

Reamer Fanny

EnterNow wrote: »

Cheers lads, will look into sourcing some of that so.

Are there any other tips, like can we control the fan speed manually as in the case of jtags?

Has anyone ever reballed before a problem set in, as in preventative maintenance?

Reballing is overated it doesn't completely eliminate the possibility of ylod, if it ain't broken don't fix it

TouchingVirus

EnterNow wrote: »

Are there any other tips, like can we control the fan speed manually as in the case of jtags?

If the fan is not a PWM fan and is controlled by voltage then you can sit a potentiometer in the middle of the fan wire and mode the case so you can turn the potentiometer with the case sealed. Instant fan controls

Jimbobjoeyman

Arctic silver 5 is overrated imo.
It tends to break down after 6 months and takes ages to break in.
Use MX-2 instead it dosent have the long break in times that as5 has and dosn't need to be replaced every 6 months.

Keep the console dust free and well ventilated,
much the same as an xbox really.

Tefral

Is this all it takes to prevent the YLOD? I have an original PS lke the OP and i would do this if that was the cause?

Jimbobjoeyman

being honest it wont prevent it.
It may pro-long the life of the console but it wont save it.
Any xbox or ps3 you buy slim or fat will suffer from these problems its to do with the solder composition not being able to take the heat produced by the consoles.
This leads the solder to degrade,crack and break down.
Newer consoles make less heat and will last longer but will eventually get solder problems.

Its really up to you,
I say if it aint broke dont fix it

Myrddin

iPwnage wrote: »

cheers, ill be cracking open my ps soon, will do this also !
sound :pac:

Don't suppose you want to take a few snaps & document it for us? It'd make a nice practical type of log/repair we could all do with having knowledge of

Stuxnet

EnterNow wrote: »

Don't suppose you want to take a few snaps & document it for us? It'd make a nice practical type of log/repair we could all do with having knowledge of

ya for sure,

Reamer Fanny

How to apply Arctic Silver 5 thermal compound PS3

I have put together a little step-by-step for replacing the standard thermal gunk with Arctic Silver 5.

Prerequisites:

• Akasa TIM Clean - thermal compound remover

• Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Compound

• Isopropyl Alcohol - solvent for cleaning the heatsinks

• Cotten Buds

• Soft Cloth or Tissue Paper

• Plastic Card (hotel room key card is perfect for the job)

Step 1 - Cleaning the heatsinks

Take a cotton bud soaked in TIM cleaner, and remove the old thermal gunk. Break off any hardened thermal compound around the edges, and ensure that it doesn't get under the heatsinks. Dab the soft cloth or tissue paper in some IPA and scrub the heatsinks, repeat as necessary until the heatsinks are shiny and clean.

Note:
At this stage you should also clean the fan assembly with the same method.

Step 2 - applying Arctic Silver 5 to the heatsink

Spread a thin streak of Arctic Silver 5 along the top of each of the heatsinks.







Step 3 - spreading the thermal compound

Take your plastic card and spread the thermal compound downward, keep the card pressed firmly against the heatsink on each pass. Repeat as necessary until the entire heatsink is covered and rotate the motherboard if you need to, you don't need to add any more thermal compound at this stage this amount will suffice.












Ideally the surface will be smooth with no roughness or ridges, the heatsink should not be visible through the thermal compound. Reassemble your PS3, and test if it boots and a flashing red light follows shortly after then the thermal compound has not been spread properly repeat the steps above.

Congratulations you have successfully prolonged the life of your PS3.

Jimbobjoeyman

justryan wrote: »

How to apply Arctic Silver 5 thermal compound PS3

I have put together a little step-by-step for replacing the standard thermal gunk with Arctic Silver 5.

Prerequisites:

• Akasa TIM Clean - thermal compound remover

• Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Compound

• Isopropyl Alcohol - solvent for cleaning the heatsinks

• Cotten Buds

• Soft Cloth or Tissue Paper

• Plastic Card (hotel room key card is perfect for the job)

Step 1 - Cleaning the heatsinks

Take a cotton bud soaked in TIM cleaner, and remove the old thermal gunk. Break off any hardened thermal compound around the edges, and ensure that it doesn't get under the heatsinks. Dab the soft cloth or tissue paper in some IPA and scrub the heatsinks, repeat as necessary until the heatsinks are shiny and clean.

Note:
At this stage you should also clean the fan assembly with the same method.

Step 2 - applying Arctic Silver 5 to the heatsink

Spread a thin streak of Arctic Silver 5 along the top of each of the heatsinks.







Step 3 - spreading the thermal compound

Take your plastic card and spread the thermal compound downward, keep the card pressed firmly against the heatsink on each pass. Repeat as necessary until the entire heatsink is covered and rotate the motherboard if you need to, you don't need to add any more thermal compound at this stage this amount will suffice.












Ideally the surface will be smooth with no roughness or ridges, the heatsink should not be visible through the thermal compound. Reassemble your PS3, and test if it boots and a flashing red light follows shortly after then the thermal compound has not been spread properly repeat the steps above.

Congratulations you have successfully prolonged the life of your PS3.

Pretty fool proof guide right there.

Just one question will toothpaste do instead of thermal paste :P lol i joke, i joke :P

Myrddin

Thanks Justryan, excellent stuff there :cool:

Jimbobjoeyman

a good preservation tip I just heard of now is.
Have your ps3 positioned upright,
Your mainboard actually sits upside down in the case and when the console heats up the heat rises up (away from the fan) and gets caught in the system.

having it standing upright lessens the problem

Myrddin

Jimbobjoeyman wrote: »

a good preservation tip I just heard of now is.
Have your ps3 positioned upright,
Your mainboard actually sits upside down in the case and when the console heats up the heat rises up (away from the fan) and gets caught in the system.

having it standing upright lessens the problem

Can anyone back that up? It makes sense, mine is positioned flat though & I always wondered if a certain orientation affected cooling...

weeder

i seen(cant remember where) a thermal image of the ps3 vertical and horizontal at some point, ill have a look

edit: the original is gone from the internets but the concensus is that horizontal is a bit better.

http://www.psu.com/forums/threads/181949-PS3-Breathing-Room theres several forum threads all over the internets using the images but the original is gone.

Jimbobjoeyman

weeder wrote: »

i seen(cant remember where) a thermal image of the ps3 vertical and horizontal at some point, ill have a look

edit: the original is gone from the internets but the concensus is that horizontal is a bit better.

http://www.psu.com/forums/threads/181949-PS3-Breathing-Room theres several forum threads all over the internets using the images but the original is gone.

Thats just the heat of the case,
The hot area is where the air is coming out from
Inside the console is a completely different story, the hottest part of the console is slap bang in the middle cpu/gpu area.
Those thermal cameras used only measured the heat of the outside but not inside.

http://forums.cvxgameconsolerepair.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=60&t=3401