Rolling a longboard under incoming waves

SuprSi

The surf was a bit big for a relative beginner today so I started practising other parts of using a longboard, such as rolling it under a wave. Is this the best way of getting past broken waves? I am able to roll the board fine, but am I supposed to be able to right it while still on the board, or is it expected that I just have to hop back on the board as if I've been knocked off it?

Cecil Mor

By rolling it under a wave I assume that you mean to Turtle Roll?
If so it'll all come with practice.

Essentially you invert yourself & your board prior to getting clobbered by an oncoming wave whilst pulling the front of the board downwards to prevent the wave from catching the board and pulling it from you.
Once the wave has washed over flip the board right way up, hopefully with yourself on it, and continue paddling so as not lose ground.

During the roll you should hold the board close to your chest with your hands firmly grasping the rails.
As you flip the board back over try to pull one rail downwards and under you while pushing the other rail upwards and over. Try to keep your chest/core as close to the deck whist doing so otherwise you just flip the board over while you remain in the water to one side requiring you to drag yourself up upon the uprighted board.

It does take practice but as you improve it'll become more of a singular fluid and efficient movement.
You'll need to use your shoulders & back muscles as well as your arms.

As always hold onto your board for safety sake, both your own and others.

SuprSi

Thanks, that's exactly what I was looking for. I keep getting hammered when trying to get out to the good stuff and if I eventually make it there I'm knackered! I'll give your advice a go next weekend.

promethius

and don't forget that sometimes the easiest way to get out past those waves is to go round them, especially if it's a reef break. with the extra paddling power of a longboard this is well worth it to avoid breaking waves. it also keeps you out of the critical zone of other surfers so it's win win. of course some breaks this won't work and and you have no way round it.
it's always worth taking a good look to see if there's any easy indirect way out even if it's longer. when you get more experience you can start using rips to get out back. u never stop learning with surfing :-)

rodento

Sometimes you'll find yourself stuck at in the impact zone, you'll find you keep getting bragged back to the same point. Its worth trying to swim past the breaking wave casue you can lose a lot of time trying to turn your board/paddling out of trouble

Also always leave plenty of space between yourself and anyone else paddling out back

tedshredsonfire

Good advice form all the lads the only other thing i woyuld add is to wait. You may feel like a twat just standing there but eventually you will get a lull between a set and then paddle like fck. once out the back relax and recover a bit before paddling for a wave. I dont get out as much as Id like so while I swim a lot paddle fitness is always down and I use this a lot. I am at the age where I dont care what the people on shore think of me. Also if you see another longboarder with a longer calf leash grab hold lower down on the board part and get a free ride out back.