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Chain length/new cassette

  • 13-11-2011 1:09pm
    #1
    Morrisseeee
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,146 ✭✭✭


    So.........I'm about to go Xmas shopping, I'm getting a new cassette and chain, I'm going from a 11-26 to an 11-21 (50/34 chainrings), should the new chain be that little bit shorter (maybe one/two links) ?? and will I see any problems with this set-up ??!! Help/info much appreciated.


Comments

  • #2
    victorcarrera
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,059 ✭✭✭victorcarrera


    The new chain will have more links than you will need. So to establish the correct length put the chain on the big ring and smallest sprocket. Pull the chain ends together until the rear mech arm is vertical (or near vertical). then remove the spare links. Doing it this way ensures the chain is long enough for the highest gear and the rear mech arm should take up the slack for the lowest gear. So the old and new chain length should be the same.


  • #3
    Morrisseeee
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,146 ✭✭✭Morrisseeee


    ^^ Cheers Victor, just to re-iterate (as I haven't broken/fixed a chain yet), the new chain length (for an 11-21) should work out the same length as the old chain length even tho the old chain supported an 11-26 cassette ?! I'm getting an SRAM chain, so I presume I can use the power-link to put it back together ?


  • #4
    Lemag
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,508 ✭✭✭Lemag


    Morrisseeee wrote: »
    ^^ Cheers Victor, just to re-iterate (as I haven't broken/fixed a chain yet), the new chain length (for an 11-21) should work out the same length as the old chain length even tho the old chain supported an 11-26 cassette ?! I'm getting an SRAM chain, so I presume I can use the power-link to put it back together ?
    It probably won't shift as well as the RD will be taking up more slack than it ought to. If your current chain is sized correctly then going from 26t to 21t at the back should mean removing 5 links.


  • #5
    Morrisseeee
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,146 ✭✭✭Morrisseeee


    going from 26t to 21t at the back should mean removing 5 links
    wow, I didn't think it would be 5 links, I thought 1 or 2 at the most.

    I think I'll try the method above & also the one where you wrap your chain around the largest sprocket on the rear cassette and the largest front chainring (ignoring the deraileur). Bring the ends together on the front chainring until they can be just connected, then add one extra link to the length, and see what this gives me.


  • #6
    victorcarrera
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,059 ✭✭✭victorcarrera


    You are not increasing the tooth range so the new chain will not need to be longer than the old one. The new 11-21 is within the range of the old 11-26 so it doesn't need to be shorter.(Remember you were already shifting 11-21+ OK) The shifting quality won't be adversely affected because the 'B adjustment is designed to keep the top pulley wheel close to the sprockets. If anything the shifting will be smoother because the jumps will be smaller. (That's assuming the new parts are HG, the same or better.
    Depending on your chain stay length the chain should be 52 to 53 links long.
    According to the manufacturers instructions the power link/lock is not supposed to be reused. Many think this is due to a patent constraint that is soon to run out. I reuse my 9 speeds power links for as long as the chain lasts but no more. I think it is just as strong as an ordinary link.
    @Lemag. Just in case you were thinking this was a fixed gear query. the chain only engages with half the teeth of the chain wheel and sprockets. (think about it and recalculate).


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  • #7
    Morrisseeee
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,146 ✭✭✭Morrisseeee


    victorcarrera wrote: »
    According to the manufacturers instructions the power link/lock is not supposed to be reused. Many think this is due to a patent constraint that is soon to run out. I reuse my 9 speeds power links for as long as the chain lasts but no more. I think it is just as strong as an ordinary link.
    After a bit of goooogling I'm suddenly knowledgeable :pac:, are you sure you're not confusing power-lock on 10 speed chains with power-link on 9 speed chains, the power-lock can only be used once, something to do with narrow 10 speed chains.


  • #8
    victorcarrera
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,059 ✭✭✭victorcarrera


    Morrisseeee wrote: »
    After a bit of goooogling I'm suddenly knowledgeable :pac:, are you sure you're not confusing power-lock on 10 speed chains with power-link on 9 speed chains, the power-lock can only be used once, something to do with narrow 10 speed chains.

    No because I have used/reused both. I referred to both since you did not specify whether you had 9 or 10 sp. The 9 sp can be opened and closed easily without tools but the first time you open a 10 sp you will need a suitable pliers they loosen up after that. As I said earlier I think the reason Sram can't declare the 10sp is reusable is due to patent which I think Wipperman or others may have. There are other 10sp reusable links which are easier to open/close but I would not recommend reuse past the life of one chain.


  • #9
    Lemag
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,508 ✭✭✭Lemag


    Morrisseeee wrote: »
    wow, I didn't think it would be 5 links, I thought 1 or 2 at the most.
    Oops! I'd intended to type 5/2 with 5 being the tooth count difference between the largest sprocket on each cassette. Of course you'd have to add in an even number of links so 2 or 4.
    victorcarrera wrote: »
    @Lemag. Just in case you were thinking this was a fixed gear query. the chain only engages with half the teeth of the chain wheel and sprockets. (think about it and recalculate).
    Bingo!


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