Screws for mounting picatinny rail to tikka T3

E. Fudd

Hi lads,

Badly stuck for the four screws to fix a picatinny rail to a tikka t3. I'm told they're a 6-48 thread.

I'm in a bit of a rush for these so if there's anybody in Kildare or Dublin willing to part with four of them or a shop that would stock them I'd really appreciate it.

Cheers lads.

Cass

This will be of no help, but did you not get them with the rail?

I was stuck myself for two a few months back, and just before i bought another rail just for the screws, i got two from a friend at the range. You're right about the size so maybe try a few precision engineering shops, or local RFDs. They usually keep a small supply of spares.

Also Fergal White may have some as he fits, and makes a lot of rails for rifles so a call to him could sort you out.

Sorry i couldn't be more helpful.

E. Fudd

Thanks for that Ezridax, believe it or not I just got my rifle back off Fergal tonight after he shortened, recrowned and threaded it for me. He also got me a third eye tactical rail, but I got my own rings. Fergal couldn't believe it that the rings didn't come with screws! He has offered to drive (150 mile return journey! There's customer service for you!!) up to me this weekend with 4 screws, but I really don't want to put him out. I'm gonna try mcarthys in Prosperous tomorrow afternoon and see how I go.

Cass

E. Fudd wrote: »

............. but I got my own rings. Fergal couldn't believe it that the rings didn't come with screws!

Just to be clear here. Is it the screws for the rail or the rings? I have spare rings here, and surely one of them will have the same size screws. If its the rail then you need the specific screws.

He has offered to drive (150 mile return journey! There's customer service for you!!) up to me this weekend with 4 screws, but I really don't want to put him out. I'm gonna try mcarthys in Prosperous tomorrow afternoon and see how I go.

Couldn't ask for much more.

E. Fudd

It's the screws for mounting the rail to the rifle. The screws didn't come with the rail! Fergal handed me the rail this evening in its sealed packet!

Cass

I got that 2 years ago with a Warne rail. Opened the packet, and the recess for the screws was empty. In fairness the dealer offered to replace the entire kit, but it would have been two weeks or more until the same rail was back in stock.

If he has spare screws could they not be posted to you. Would be there by Tuesday. Failing that take him up on his offer, or meet him halfway. 40 minutes each for you, and you're guaranteed to have them tomorrow.

E. Fudd

Believe it or not there wasnt even a place for the screws in the pack so I don't think they supply them! €70 for a rail with no screws!!!
I'm itching to get out with the new setup, new mod and zeiss scope!
Hopefully I'll get some from mcarthys tomorrow afternoon. If worst comes to worst ill buy a cheap rail to get the screws out of it!
By the way, any idea how to setup a scope without the aid of a bore sight so that I'm at least on paper with the first couple of shots?

Cass

E. Fudd wrote: »

By the way, any idea how to setup a scope without the aid of a bore sight so that I'm at least on paper with the first couple of shots?

There are a couple of methods, but the easiest to do, and with best results is below. It will get you not only on paper, but on the money within 3 shots if done correctly.

If installing the scope the quick way would be to place the rifle in a gun clamp or very steady front rest and back bag. Place a spirit level on a flat section of the rifle. If none can be got or trusted take the rings apart and screw on the bottom section of the rings leaving the top piece of. Tighten these down. Now place a level across these rings and straighten the rifle. Once your happy, place the scope into the rings and place the top section of the rings on the bootom section over the scope and screw in the screws but DO NOT tighten.

Have a heavy string/line hanging from the ceiling of your hall (at the end of the hall). Weigh it down if necessary. This will give you a dead straight vertical line. Have the rifle pointing towards the string and adjust the position of the scope forward and back in the rings until your eye relief is good (that there is no black when you look into the scope) Twist/turn the scope until the vertical line of the crosshair tallies with the string/line hanging in your hall. Once happy tighten the screws on the rings but do so in an alternating fashion as if you tighten one side fully it will twist the scope in the rings. Problem i find with some lads is even though the crosshairs are perfectly straight everyone holds the rifle at a slight cant and so when they put it to their eye they think the crosshair is leaning. Its not. Resist the temptation to adjust it as canting the crosshair to suit your hold will mean any clicking to zero the scope will result in angled adjustments rather than perfectly up/down or left/right adjustments.

Go to a range or find a fixed spot at home. Somewhere around the 50yd mark is grand. Have the elevation of your scope turned down to zero. Have the windage adjustments centralised. As in if there is 50 minutes (moa) of adjustment have it set for 25moa. Have the bolt removed and with the rifle unclamped adjust the rifle until you can see the target down the barrel. The muzzle of the gun will appear as a circle and must sit perfectly "central" in the circle created by the breach. Once this is done make sure the target is central in the circles created by the muzzle and breach. Have the rifle reclamped making sure the target is still central in the bore/barrel.

Now without moving the rifle look through the scope and see where the crosshairs are in relation to the target. Adjust the crosshairs up to and left/right until they meet the target. Now once more check the bore/barrel sight and scope sight. If you are happy both are pointing at the same target time to replace the bolt and fire a shot (this is why i recommend doing this at a range). Find where the shot impacted. Measure the distance from your point of impact to the target bull and adjust your scope as necessary. gain fire another shot. You should be either in or very close to the bull. Make one more adjustment if you are not in the bull and fire one more round. You should be zeroed at this point.

An extra piece of advice. If you do not have access to a range, etc there is a method i use at home until i can get to the range.

Take a piece of A4 paper. Draw a cross. A line vertically down through the centre of the page, and one through the centre, horizontally. In the "crosshair draw a 1" circle. Fill it in until it is completely black. Under the circle, 18mm from the Crosshair, draw a line horizontally, and parallell to the main horizontal line. You should end up with this;


Set up your rifle on a table in a vice or frontrest & back bag. Place the target above at exactly 25yards from your rifle. Use the bore sighting method above, and the scope adjustments methods above, however what you are looking for with the above target is the bore should have the black circle sitting perfectly square in the bore when you look down it, and the crosshairs should be adjusted onto the smaller horizontal line. This will give a perfect 100 yd zero for a .308 (155gr) and should be very close for a .223. Without firing a shot.

I use the same target for my .22, but i place the small horizontal line 1.25" above the circle.