Triton T90 si Showere - Keeps Cutting Out?

Chevy RV

Hello Folks,

Just wondering if any of you have come across this problem before or can identify it for me.

I have a Triton T90 SI shower that keeps cutting out while using it? If you pull the On/Off string and restart it, it continues to work away again for a while fine and then may repeat the tripping out again.

Any ideas what's causing it or what i need to do?


Regards,




Chevy RV

Effects

Worn brushes perhaps?

2011

It could be a number of things, such as low water pressure or blocked filter.
Is this a new install, or a shower that has been working well until recently?

Bruthal

Is it completely stopping, water and all? If it is then its likely a bad connection somewhere, or faulty switch.

If its cycling hot and cold, then its possibly limescaled elements, or a blocked filter or shower head, but these items usually make the shower noticeably hotter to use, especially the blocked filter, and likely too hot, which would be likely mentioned in your problem.

As 2011 asked, is it a new installation, which would rule out scale on elements, but not filter, or bad connections.

If it is indeed completely cutting out, its likely a connection/pullchord problem.

Chevy RV

Hello Folks,

Thanks for the replies.

The shower is there a few years and was working perfectly until recently.

I don'd think it could be a blocked filter as the water coming into the house is all filtered and thus there is no scale in the water.

How does one check the brushes? ( are these on the motor?)

Yes it stops completely and if you pull the cord and restart the shower, it works away again.


Your replies are much appreciated.



Regards,


Chevy RV

meercat

Chevy RV wrote: »

Yes it stops completely and if you pull the cord and restart the shower, it works away again.

Chevy RV

sounds like a loose connection in the switch
or perhaps the switch itself
there seems to be numerous faulty shower switches lately

Bruthal

Looks like the pull chord itself so, or the connections into it.

Its possible it can be a connection other than at the pullchord either, which fails under load after a time, then re-makes when the load is disconnected by the switch. But the switch is the first place to have checked, and is the likely problem spot.

It wont be brushes, limescale or filter etc once the shower is completely cutting out.

studdlymurphy

I know this is an old thread, I have the same problem with a triton t90si. I have removed the heating element and cleared allot of lime out of it. I have yet to clear the filter but I have my suspicions of the thermostat. I wonder how did this thread finish out what was the cause of the problem?
Im planning on cleaning the filter first then the pump as these could fix it for free. if that doesnt work I will get the thermostat changed (10-15 euro approx)

Bruthal

studdlymurphy wrote: »

I know this is an old thread, I have the same problem with a triton t90si. I have removed the heating element and cleared allot of lime out of it. I have yet to clear the filter but I have my suspicions of the thermostat. I wonder how did this thread finish out what was the cause of the problem?
Im planning on cleaning the filter first then the pump as these could fix it for free. if that doesnt work I will get the thermostat changed (10-15 euro approx)

Whats the symptoms though? The op one was completely shutting down which is likely due to interruption to electrical supply for whatever reason.

Changing elements or cleaning filters won't fix a shower that's totally dead.

There is no thermo stat in the t90si, only a pair of overheat cutout stats, one of which resets itself, but the shower keeps running but with one element out of circuit with that stat tripped. The other overheat stat cuts out entire shower and needs to be replaced if that's gone.

studdlymurphy

Bruthal wrote: »

Whats the symptoms though? The op one was completely shutting down which is likely due to interruption to electrical supply for whatever reason.

Changing elements or cleaning filters won't fix a shower that's totally dead.

There is no thermo stat in the t90si, only a pair of overheat cutout stats, one of which resets itself, but the shower keeps running but with one element out of circuit with that stat tripped. The other overheat stat cuts out entire shower and needs to be replaced if that's gone.

It cuts out after a period of time, by cut out I mean stops pumping and the water stops the shower makes no noise. If I turn it off and on again straight again it doesn't work it seems like it needs to cool down so it must be the overheat stat that is getting triggered. The water doesn't seem to change from what the normal temps should be from what I think.
The over heat stat may be triggering early (at a lower temp?) What else could cause this? I haven't had a chance to look at it since my initial post.

Bruthal

studdlymurphy wrote: »

It cuts out after a period of time, by cut out I mean stops pumping and the water stops the shower makes no noise. If I turn it off and on again straight again it doesn't work it seems like it needs to cool down so it must be the overheat stat that is getting triggered. The water doesn't seem to change from what the normal temps should be from what I think.
The over heat stat may be triggering early (at a lower temp?) What else could cause this? I haven't had a chance to look at it since my initial post.

The first overheat stat only cuts out one of the elements to allow cooling but the shower keeps running, and that stat resets itself. The main overheat stat completely cuts shower out and does not reset, assuming the proper stats are as they were originally.

If the shower completely stops dead, then works again, check if the power neon on the shower also goes out during the cutout time, as well as the pull chord neon if there is one. Usually this is caused by bad connection in the circuit somewhere. You could turn off the tripswitch for the shower and look at the connections in the pull chord for signs of burning or loose connections. Loose connection can be at the MCB board or in the shower itself also. But usually the puillchord is the place to look for them first.

studdlymurphy

The shower cuts out the LED on the shower itself stays on like everything is fine. The light on the pull cord also stays working. It must be the main overheat stat. Do you know which one that is? There is one on the heater at the top and one on the outlet of the heater.

Bruthal

The one on the top is the main cutout stat which cuts out the entire shower, but that should be a non reset one when it goes.

But when the main stat cuts out, the neon will go off as well. When the stat at the tank heater outlet trips, only one element disconnects, but the shower keeps running.

The neon is directly connected to the pump and solenoid water inlet valve, so when the start button is pressed, if that brings the neon on then the pump and solenoid should come on. That's according to t90si internal wiring diagram I have here anyway. I thought myself that the neon comes on once the shower has power to it.

studdlymurphy

Bruthal wrote: »

The one on the top is the main cutout stat which cuts out the entire shower, but that should be a non reset one when it goes.

But when the main stat cuts out, the neon will go off as well. When the stat at the tank heater outlet trips, only one element disconnects, but the shower keeps running.

The neon is directly connected to the pump and solenoid water inlet valve, so when the start button is pressed, if that brings the neon on then the pump and solenoid should come on. That's according to t90si internal wiring diagram I have here anyway. I thought myself that the neon comes on once the shower has power to it.

So the shower cut out again this morning, The light on the shower does go out (my mistake in saying that it didnt but I had not taking in all the info the first time it happened. If I turn it off at the unit and let it cool for 20-30 seconds it comes back on again.
I mailed Triton and they got back to me today saying it could be a solenoid valve (which sounds wring to me).

Bruthal

studdlymurphy wrote: »

So the shower cut out again this morning, The light on the shower does go out (my mistake in saying that it didnt but I had not taking in all the info the first time it happened. If I turn it off at the unit and let it cool for 20-30 seconds it comes back on again.
I mailed Triton and they got back to me today saying it could be a solenoid valve (which sounds wring to me).

Yea the solenoid valve not working will stop water coming in, and stop elements coming on, but the pump will still run with a higher pitch sound, and the shower neon will still be on.

If the shower is cutting out without actually getting scalding hot, then its likely a bad connection, often at the pull chord switch, or the switch itself has a bad contact. Very easy to test for someone experienced in such matters, but from here, can only suggest.

As I said, the main overheat cutout which kills entire shower when it trips, does not reset, assuming the correct cutout device is in place. It is the last line of defence in the event all else fails and elements are on with little or no water flow.

Pull chord is the first thing to check, with trip switch off. Bad connections can get very hot and fail with the heavy load, then start working again after the connection itself cools.

studdlymurphy

Nice one Ill try that tonight.
Ill open the pull cord switch to check for loose or damaged connections, check for continuity across the switch and tighten all up if there is nothing obvious. I will then try to test the over temp switch

drunkmonkey

I have this shower, if you have the Temperate past half way on the dial the shower will keep cutting out, the temp dial should be kept to the left of half way mark and the shower power on II. It will cut out and blow hot and cold if it's not used like this.

Bruthal

drunkmonkey wrote: »

I have this shower, if you have the Temperate past half way on the dial the shower will keep cutting out, the temp dial should be kept to the left of half way mark and the shower power on II. It will cut out and blow hot and cold if it's not used like this.

Well the definition of cutting out is all important. Do you mean the shower goes cold, but keeps running?

That`s what they are supposed to do if the water flow is too low and the incoming water temperature is already quite warm in the attic storage tank.

Turning up the temperature dial on these showers simply reduces the actual water flow rate. In summer the flow rate needs to be higher as the start temperature of the water is warmer going into the shower. If its very warm, the power on the highest setting will cause the output water to be very hot at anything but the lowest temperature dial setting, and sometimes the heat selector has to be turned down.

It can also depend if it is an 8.5kw or 9.5kw model.

But the problem with the posters shower seems to be a complete shut down of the shower, due to power interruption.

If having the shower on a colder setting stops the problem of complete shutdown, then it could be a thermal cutout thing, although as said earlier, the master thermal cutout permanently cuts out and needs to be replaced when it goes, and it shuts the shower completely off. The blowing hot and cold thing, is caused by the secondary thermal cutout, which does reset when the water cools it, as it simply turns off half the element, as an anti scald protection.

A lower heat selector setting can also put less load on a possible bad connection, so it works until the higher load is put on. But without being at the shower to do tests, its all suggestions from here.

adrian92

Suggest trying the following:

Select minimum temperature on the control panel of your shower ( or just cold, if an option).

Switch on the shower and see if the same thing happens.

(This test may help in identifying possible problem)

studdlymurphy

Bruthal wrote: »

You could turn off the tripswitch for the shower and look at the connections in the pull chord for signs of burning or loose connections. Loose connection can be at the MCB board or in the shower itself also. But usually the puillchord is the place to look for them first.

Looks like you were right Bruthal, I opened the switch and all looks fine but if I run the shower until it cuts out and fiddle with the isolation switch the shower flickers on and off. Ill e get a new switch today. Cheers for the help.

studdlymurphy

Changed switch and shower runs like a champ. cheers for the help