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Spike not lifting silage bale

  • 27-11-2011 9:51pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 1,353 ✭✭✭


    I have a one prong spike which is not lifting the silage bales fully, the bale is inclined to drag on the ground.

    The bales would be 2nd cut and grass would have been soft and the bales in fairness would not be very firm.

    Will I have to live with the bales dragging the ground or is there a solution.


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,701 ✭✭✭moy83


    Are you putting the spike through the long part of the bale instead of the flat ? There is less chance of it dragging that way


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,828 ✭✭✭yellow50HX


    are you using a rear spike or a front loader spike. you should probably put a second spike on the unit, the bale is proably splitting as you lift it so that why its splitting. the second pin will stop the bale from twisting and a have a good long main pin.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,034 ✭✭✭Bizzum


    Shorten up the toplink as much as you can and it will aim the spike up higher. Stick the spike as low down the bale as you can then.
    We have a single spike bale lifter and that's how I use it, when I have to. Generally use the loader though!
    It's not simple with sloppy bales. You may need to stick on a second spike.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,552 ✭✭✭pakalasa


    Point the top-link down slightly as you go into the bale. Wind up the top-link then by hand before you lift it. If you lift it up and then put a flat plank under it at the back. Drop it down and wind up the top link again.
    A pain to do, but it will stop it dragging.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 962 ✭✭✭john mayo 10


    had the same problem last year with using a spike ,using a bale handler this year its so much easier , i knock the bale by tying a sling around the bale and to the handler ,them pick up the bale my heart was broke dragging bales last year :D


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  • Registered Users Posts: 141 ✭✭weefarmer


    I tip the bale over onto its flat then spike the bottom as low as I can and also use hydraulic top link, its a good job!


  • Registered Users Posts: 84 ✭✭wallycool


    Is the tractor not able to lift it ? Maybe ur tractor hydraulic filter and oil needs changing


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,174 ✭✭✭✭Muckit


    pakalasa wrote: »
    Point the top-link down slightly as you go into the bale. Wind up the top-link then by hand before you lift it. If you lift it up and then put a flat plank under it at the back. Drop it down and wind up the top link again.
    A pain to do, but it will stop it dragging.

    This is where a hydraulic toplink would come in handy! :D


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 521 ✭✭✭Atilathehun


    Muckit wrote: »
    This is where a hydraulic toplink would come in handy! :D

    Speaking of hydraulic top links, I bought one there a few years ago, but never got any reakl use out of it. Problem, is that it seems not to work properly on my tractor hydraulic set up.
    For example, if I put the rotary mower on it, in transport position, the ram of the top link, extends when I am driving along, this dropping down the mower:eek:
    What's the problem? Do I need some sort of check valve or restrictor on the return line to prevent this?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,174 ✭✭✭✭Muckit


    Speaking of hydraulic top links, I bought one there a few years ago, but never got any reakl use out of it. Problem, is that it seems not to work properly on my tractor hydraulic set up.
    For example, if I put the rotary mower on it, in transport position, the ram of the top link, extends when I am driving along, this dropping down the mower:eek:
    What's the problem? Do I need some sort of check valve or restrictor on the return line to prevent this?

    I don't know if this should be happening if everything was hunky dory,I stand corrected though.
    Did you buy it new? You didn't damage it by any chance...seals gone or piston slightly bent?


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,087 ✭✭✭vanderbadger


    Speaking of hydraulic top links, I bought one there a few years ago, but never got any reakl use out of it. Problem, is that it seems not to work properly on my tractor hydraulic set up.
    For example, if I put the rotary mower on it, in transport position, the ram of the top link, extends when I am driving along, this dropping down the mower:eek:
    What's the problem? Do I need some sort of check valve or restrictor on the return line to prevent this?

    I have one, its alright for bale lifter work say but not good enough to hold up 8 ft mower, in fact it just wont lift it, some of them have a type of valve that prevents them slipping, its like a little square block on the ram where one of the hoses is connected, probably a better job, that said a rotary mower should be no bother to it


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 521 ✭✭✭Atilathehun


    Muckit wrote: »
    I don't know if this should be happening if everything was hunky dory,I stand corrected though.
    Did you buy it new? You didn't damage it by any chance...seals gone or piston slightly bent?

    Bought new. Hardly ever used it to damage it, to be honest.
    I reckon I need a restrictor of some kind like a choke valve, on the return line to resolve this issue. Could be wrong though!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,552 ✭✭✭pakalasa


    It's obviously leaking, either internally in the seals of the piston, or in the hydraulic valve in the tractor.
    It does sound like it is leaking at the valve. You can either put on check valves on the top link or replace the seals in the valve.

    Here's an example of one with check valves built in.
    http://www.gkn-walterscheid.com/en/products/top-links/?PHPSESSID=c87e04ebb65482ae8a1a9cd4ed9fa3f4


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,025 ✭✭✭Tipp Man


    What kind of money for a decent hydraulic top link?

    could be handy on the mower


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,174 ✭✭✭✭Muckit


    Tipp Man wrote: »
    What kind of money for a decent hydraulic top link?

    Your talking around €160-180 for a half decent one. That's without hoses or fittings.

    Remember to compare like with like if your buying, ie make sure pistons are same thickness and have the same distance of travel. Buy to suit your tractor and the type of work you are doing.

    Also be careful the first couple of times you are using it so that you can check for clearance. It's easy to catch an elbow fitting off the backend and damage it, I'm speaking from experience!;)


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