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Detailing Thread

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  • Registered Users Posts: 19,854 ✭✭✭✭MetzgerMeister


    so this one will do http://www.cleancar.ie/kestreldas-6starterskit.html ? plus a few cleaning products and a snow foam lance?
    Think i'll have to be nice to the wife for a few weeks ;)

    Even if you're not you can always do the car with your new toys to get away from her :pac:


  • Registered Users Posts: 15,531 ✭✭✭✭vectra


    so this one will do http://www.cleancar.ie/kestreldas-6starterskit.html ? plus a few cleaning products and a snow foam lance?
    Think i'll have to be nice to the wife for a few weeks ;)

    Yes,
    They are a good piece of kit to have,

    Also snow foam lance and foam

    & Chemical Guys - Maxi Suds II

    Tardis. > To remove tar

    Clay bar?? Debatable, I never used one on my own car, but up to your self.

    Sealent/Wax?? Depends on what you want. I find waxing more time consuming. I now use sealants, My personal favourite at the moment is Wolf Chemicals Body Wrap.
    Simple to use and very durable., Currently no outlet here but apparently should be within the very near future.

    Wheels/Tyres > Car-Pro - Iron X & Very Cherry Acid Free Wheel Cleaner & Chemical Guys - New Look Trim/Tyre Gel

    Windows > Chemical Guys - Miracle Window - Glass Cleaner

    Interior > Mr. Proper APC diluted to wash/wipe everything down. I dont use pvc polishes.

    These are from my personal experiences and am more than happy with them. I am in no way saying they are the best.

    For my next car it will be a full stock of G Techinq products.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,081 ✭✭✭irelandspurs


    I just asked her there and went mad saying there more important things to be buying,looks like i'll have to lift the patio and dig a big hole.:mad:


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,593 ✭✭✭Northern Monkey


    vectra wrote: »
    Clay bar?? Debatable, I never used one on my own car, but up to your self.

    :eek:I would put claying as one of the most beneficial steps in cleaning the car.

    Like where you are going with the gtehniq stuff, that is next on my list once I use up some of my current stuff.


  • Registered Users Posts: 19,106 ✭✭✭✭TestTransmission


    Claying a car makes a huge difference imo


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,356 ✭✭✭Fiona


    I just asked her there and went mad saying there more important things to be buying,looks like i'll have to lift the patio and dig a big hole.:mad:

    Trust me buddy I feel your pain :p

    Curran on Boards is the owner of www.detailingshed.com :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,081 ✭✭✭irelandspurs


    I think I'll buy it for her as a mothers day present next week.:D


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,593 ✭✭✭Northern Monkey


    mrs crilly wrote: »
    Trust me buddy I feel your pain :p

    Curran on Boards is the owner of www.detailingshed.com :)

    You could get him to dig a hole for two Fi:p


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,356 ✭✭✭Fiona


    You could get him to dig a hole for two Fi:p

    Do you want me to wash your mouth out with a clay bar young man :D


  • Registered Users Posts: 15,531 ✭✭✭✭vectra


    :eek:I would put claying as one of the most beneficial steps in cleaning the car.

    Like where you are going with the gtehniq stuff, that is next on my list once I use up some of my current stuff.

    Never saw the point of claybar when I was going to use the DA anyway.

    GtechniQ products available from Here


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,616 ✭✭✭TomMc


    Claying will make polishing and waxing that bit easier, as surface is both cleaner and smoother.


  • Registered Users Posts: 582 ✭✭✭HJL


    +1 on G Techniq stuff, i used the P1 polish last summer by hand, and it gave really good results considering i didnt use a machine. I have close up pics that show the swirl removal i achieved from it if anyone is interested. Its on another forum so not sure if i can just link to it.

    I also got the trim restorer too, i havent used it yet though so cant comment on it, but if heard very good things about it. Expensive considering its the size of a bottle of tipex but it lasts years apparently.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,721 ✭✭✭E39MSport


    After you use the petals, is it just a matter of using a D/A and compound to remove any scratches?

    If this works for you I would consider getting that stuff too. I have loads of white marks on my bonnet and doors :(

    Apparently so. I haven't done it before myself. I'm following the Bora project technique posted on detailingworld.co.uk by stewie.

    You obviously need to be very careful with it and also have an idea of how much paint you have to play with in advance.

    Also, theres an intersting post a page or so back about some chip fixing kit. Interested to see the results from that.

    edit: your white marks may just be embedded wax/polish. That can be a problem on dark colours.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,538 ✭✭✭btkm8unsl0w5r4


    Vectra no Claybar....:eek:. I find it the most beneficial part of detailing. Do it about twice a year. Clay strips all the old wax and polish that your prewash or shampoo did not get, and most importantly the bonded contaminants. You would be amazed what comes off a perfectly clean car. It gives a much better finish to the car when you wax or seal. Also a sealant of wax lasts a lot longer as there are not a bunch of areas where there is a hole in the surface where some bonded contamanant is sticking up.

    http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=4829

    claying4mg.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 15,531 ✭✭✭✭vectra


    TomMc wrote: »
    Claying will make polishing and waxing that bit easier, as surface is both cleaner and smoother.

    Agreed. But I would never just wax my car. I would always prep it with a cleaning polish first Such as CG P40 ;)
    Vectra no Claybar....:eek:. I find it the most beneficial part of detailing. Do it about twice a year. Clay strips all the old wax and polish that your prewash or shampoo did not get, and most importantly the bonded contaminants. You would be amazed what comes off a perfectly clean car. It gives a much better finish to the car when you wax or seal. Also a sealant of wax lasts a lot longer as there are not a bunch of areas where there is a hole in the surface where some bonded contamanant is sticking up.

    http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=4829

    http://img166.imageshack.us/img166/9926/claying4mg.jpg

    I don't see the point of a claybar when either Stripping all the old protectant off with a mix of Fairy liquid and APC mix followed by either the P40 mentioned above or a run of a DA. It just seems an unnecessary step to be honest


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,538 ✭✭✭btkm8unsl0w5r4


    Until you see what it pulls off the car you might say that. If it hasn't been done in the last 6 months its an essential step. Here is a 50:50 from DW of just claying a car. I get a ton of stuff when claying even though the car is mostly corrected, and I strip with citrus pre clean, APC and Shampoo. Its the fact that the contaminants are bonded means your wash mitt just won't lift them.

    IMG_1144.jpg
    http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=208332&highlight=claying+important


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,356 ✭✭✭Fiona



    claying4mg.jpg


    And now for the science bit..........


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 9,538 ✭✭✭btkm8unsl0w5r4


    Oh BTW lidl have some car cleaning products on Tuesday see here

    http://www.lidl.ie/cps/rde/xchg/SID-FCBDCEC1-106A7585/lidl_ri_ie/hs.xsl/offerdate.htm?offerdate=18887

    Wheel cleaner for less than 2 euro and wax for 5 euro, these are great for when a friend wants you to do their car or your parents. Saves the good stuff for somebody that would care.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,616 ✭✭✭TomMc


    A clay bar shaves the head off contaminants bonded to the surface. It doesn't really pull the entire contaminant out, just what is proud of the surface. But it is still better than nothing as it leaves the paint much cleaner and smoother. A polish, sealant or wax is easier to apply, spread out and remove once the surface is really clean first.

    If you think about the contaminants a clay bar removes, it is that much less crap been worked across the paint finish with a high speed polisher. So polishing is more effective. It will also prevent your polishing pads getting contaminated as quickly, not to mention prolong lifespan.

    Using a good insect, tar and industrial fallout remover would still be preferable to a clay bar, even though they can all be used in sequence for maximum effect.


  • Registered Users Posts: 15,531 ✭✭✭✭vectra


    I agree 100%, A clay bar is good in its own rights. The reason I never bothered with them is because I always prep my paintwork before waxing/sealing them with Cleaner polish or the DA.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 3,721 ✭✭✭E39MSport


    Howdy, are you not progressively cutting back the surface though?

    imo - the DA should only be rolled out once a year if that ?


  • Registered Users Posts: 17,875 ✭✭✭✭MugMugs


    Looking for a bit of advice.

    I wash my motor with Turtle Wax "Wax and Clean" and then wax her up with "T Cut, Wax and restore"

    It's a black car so I find the wax covers any unsightly chips on the paint work.

    Now if the above is way out, please let me know.

    Also, thinking of running a clay bar over the car next week. Any suggestions on the best make I should get and where you'd recommend?

    Also, any other black car owners any tips with respect to waxing ?


  • Registered Users Posts: 33,898 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    vectra wrote: »
    I agree 100%, A clay bar is good in its own rights. The reason I never bothered with them is because I always prep my paintwork before waxing/sealing them with Cleaner polish or the DA.

    Im still perplexed how you dont use claybars, Ive been using them now for 3 years and I cant say there is 1 other item that makes the surface as smooth pre polishing.

    Have you clay barred versus your standard method or never compared the two?


  • Registered Users Posts: 19,854 ✭✭✭✭MetzgerMeister


    MugMugs wrote: »
    Looking for a bit of advice.

    I wash my motor with Turtle Wax "Wax and Clean" and then wax her up with "T Cut, Wax and restore"

    It's a black car so I find the wax covers any unsightly chips on the paint work.

    Now if the above is way out, please let me know.

    Also, thinking of running a clay bar over the car next week. Any suggestions on the best make I should get and where you'd recommend?

    Also, any other black car owners any tips with respect to waxing ?

    Using these 2 in 1 products is a joke. You're much better off to use a dedicated product for each step.

    I've always used Meguiar's clay bars. You can get either the bars on their own or a "Smooth Surface Clay Kit".

    Tips for waxing black - I use Meguiar's polish followed by Gold Class wax to deepen the black and give it a wet look. That's then followed with Megs NXT wax. This gives it a great shine along with being ultra hydrophobic and gives unreal beading and great protection.

    It's time consuming but well worth it ;)


  • Registered Users Posts: 17,875 ✭✭✭✭MugMugs


    Using these 2 in 1 products is a joke. You're much better off to use a dedicated product for each step.

    I've always used Meguiar's clay bars. You can get either the bars on their own or a "Smooth Surface Clay Kit".

    Tips for waxing black - I use Meguiar's polish followed by Gold Class wax to deepen the black and give it a wet look. That's then followed with Megs NXT wax. This gives it a great shine along with being ultra hydrophobic and gives unreal beading and great protection.

    It's time consuming but well worth it ;)

    Cheers for that. Bit on retail theraphy later so :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 19,106 ✭✭✭✭TestTransmission


    Using these 2 in 1 products is a joke. You're much better off to use a dedicated product for each step.

    I've always used Meguiar's clay bars. You can get either the bars on their own or a "Smooth Surface Clay Kit".

    Tips for waxing black - I use Meguiar's polish followed by Gold Class wax to deepen the black and give it a wet look. That's then followed with Megs NXT wax. This gives it a great shine along with being ultra hydrophobic and gives unreal beading and great protection.

    It's time consuming but well worth it ;)
    MugMugs wrote: »
    Cheers for that. Bit on retail theraphy later so :)

    I've gotten great results with Poorboys Black Hole Glaze recently aswell, very much well worth it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 19,854 ✭✭✭✭MetzgerMeister


    +1 for the glaze. I have never used it myself but it is great from what i've read.


  • Registered Users Posts: 15,531 ✭✭✭✭vectra


    E39MSport wrote: »
    Howdy, are you not progressively cutting back the surface though?

    imo - the DA should only be rolled out once a year if that ?
    I hand polished with Chemical Guys P40 and topped it off with whatever product I want to try then.


    Only used the DA on my octy for the first time 2 weeks ago. ( Car is 1.5 yr. old )
    Prior to this
    listermint wrote: »
    Im still perplexed how you dont use claybars, Ive been using them now for 3 years and I cant say there is 1 other item that makes the surface as smooth pre polishing.

    Have you clay barred versus your standard method or never compared the two?

    did use a claybar on my last car ( Black Cordoba )
    While it was smooth afterwards i really did not feel/see the difference between that and giving it a good polish with something like the above ( P40 )

    But hey, Thats just me probably being too lazy :D


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,721 ✭✭✭E39MSport


    Just ordered a Karcher WD3.200 from Amazon :D


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  • Registered Users Posts: 19,106 ✭✭✭✭TestTransmission


    E39MSport wrote: »
    Just ordered a Karcher WD3.200 from Amazon :D

    Looks the job, I need a new power washer myself.Co-Op in Limerick is selling the Karcher 2.21 for 99 yoyo.Good price?


This discussion has been closed.
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