Detailing Thread

vectra

MetzgerMeister wrote: »

I thought all glazes had to be sealed as they are not a protective layer at all? If it doesn't need to be sealed, why are some companies selling sealant along with BL in a package?

That would be called Marketing

It is Suggested you put Hybrid V7 over.. Not Recommended
Though they DO Recommend it IF you are a shine fanatic

Taken from the CG website

Can you top it with a wax? Yes, you can! After about 30 minutes from when you’re finished wiping it down, you can top it if you like (not necessary, but you can if you want to).

Full write up here > CG Black Light

listermint

vectra wrote: »

That would be called Marketing

It is Suggested you put Hybrid V7 over.. Not Recommended
Though they DO Recommend it IF you are a shine fanatic

Taken from the CG website


Full write up here > CG Black Light

Marketing??

Why wouldnt you seal a glaze? What would you gain from not sealing it up effectively bar saving a few Euros...

id prefer to seal up my hard work and effort so it stays that way for a number of months.

MetzgerMeister

listermint wrote: »

Marketing??

Why wouldnt you seal a glaze? What would you gain from not sealing it up effectively bar saving a few Euros...

id prefer to seal up my hard work and effort so it stays that way for a number of months.

My point exactly. I can't see how a glaze can provide the same protection (if any) as a sealant or a wax since it's more of a polish (which is incapable of sealing) than it is a wax.

TomMc

Some glazes are acrylic based so both shine and protect, but they will have limited enough durability. In effect they still need a sealant or wax applied afterwards for real protection. Most sealants and waxes will bond well to an acrylic base. On the other hand, old-school glazes are full of fillers to disguise defects and boost looks (wetness etc) but they can also be quite oily and do not offer any protection. These need a wax on top for sure. And the oily nature of the glaze means that only a wax can be used afterwards to seal the paint. An oily glaze will compromise the bond wax will make with the surface, shortening its durability.

The only standalone glaze that will offer superior protection than acrylic or polymer paint sealants or carnauba waxes is something like Crystal Diamond Glaze polish, since it is a silane based (glassy) coating.

kiddums

Quick question guys.

There is something on my car that looks like old sparks from immulsion paint or something. Will I be able to remove that easy enough?
Will it come off when I detar the car? I'll just be using petrol, unless I get a good tar remover cheapish.

Voodoomelon

no1beemerfan wrote: »

Gorgeous car and gorgeous colour......some difference after the detail and I bet you thought your car was clean before you started!

Haha, so true. People always commented on the "cleanest car in the area", I too thought it was clean until I saw these results.

The bonnet is the worst, will have to get some before and after shots of it with a decent camera.

listermint

kiddums wrote: »

Quick question guys.

There is something on my car that looks like old sparks from immulsion paint or something. Will I be able to remove that easy enough?
Will it come off when I detar the car? I'll just be using petrol, unless I get a good tar remover cheapish.

They should come off but dont be too rough on them and just a good micro fibre cloth to minimise heavy localised rubbing.

You might not thing you are being hard on the area but chances are you are. (you will notice heavy laquer wear on the area when it drys) so be gentle.

kiddums

listermint wrote: »

They should come off but dont be too rough on them and just a good micro fibre cloth to minimise heavy localised rubbing.

You might not thing you are being hard on the area but chances are you are. (you will notice heavy laquer wear on the area when it drys) so be gentle.

I was thinking, would using a plant sprayer thing to spray the petrol on and leave it to soak for a minute tops and wipe off with a microfibre work?
Minimise rubbing and all that. Just take my time and try to soak it off rather than rub it off?

MetzgerMeister

kiddums wrote: »

I was thinking, would using a plant sprayer thing to spray the petrol on and leave it to soak for a minute tops and wipe off with a microfibre work?
Minimise rubbing and all that. Just take my time and try to soak it off rather than rub it off?

That's a good idea but you don't need to use a sprayer. Just get a cloth and dip it in a cap of petrol, dab it on, leave for a few seconds and start rubbing. As you know, petrol will evaporate quick enough!

kiddums

MetzgerMeister wrote: »

That's a good idea but you don't need to use a sprayer. Just get a cloth and dip it in a cap of petrol, dab it on, leave for a few seconds and start rubbing. As you know, petrol will evaporate quick enough!

I was just worried that too much petrol would damage the paint, not that its in perfect nick or anything, but I'd like to keep it as it is at least.

I'll get a rag for that so. Rag on, clean rag/microfibre off.

listermint

kiddums wrote: »

I was just worried that too much petrol would damage the paint, not that its in perfect nick or anything, but I'd like to keep it as it is at least.

I'll get a rag for that so. Rag on, clean rag/microfibre off.

Microfibre on, microfibre off.

dont use a rag, use a clean microfibre. dip it rub on the body.

Then use another clean one to wipe off.

Microfibres are cheap.

throw them in the wash after and use them again.

kiddums

listermint wrote: »

Microfibre on, microfibre off.

dont use a rag, use a clean microfibre. dip it rub on the body.

Then use another clean one to wipe off.

Microfibres are cheap.

throw them in the wash after and use them again.

Thanks. I'll see how the weekend goes, might get at it if the weather holds.

DetailerCork

guys, glaze is only an extra option, basic stuff and protection is wax/sealant
I do not understand why people are so mad with use of glaze.
Some products are 3 in 1 AIO, All in One, polish cleaner-glaze-sealant, as a quick option, giving some good effect with rotary or DA polisher.

Blacklight and V7 is not a glaze, they are hybrid sealants with gloss enhancers
Good to use both, blacklight and V7 for final wipe.
Where is a point to buy for example BlackLight and do wax after that? If you need glaze then use pure glaze and then wax, otherwise it makes no sense.

ps. normal glaze do not give protection, need to be sealed after.

Nonoperational

kiddums wrote: »

Quick question guys.

There is something on my car that looks like old sparks from immulsion paint or something. Will I be able to remove that easy enough?
Will it come off when I detar the car? I'll just be using petrol, unless I get a good tar remover cheapish.

I used a clay bar to remove some tiny dots of paint recently. Worked a treat.

DetailerCork

kidums...... just a clay bar as gpf101 said
if is so bad then u will need extra pair of hands
ps. what is immulsion

listermint

DetailerCork wrote: »

guys, glaze is only an extra option, basic stuff and protection is wax/sealant
I do not understand why people are so mad with use of glaze.
Some products are 3 in 1 AIO, All in One, polish cleaner-glaze-sealant, as a quick option, giving some good effect with rotary or DA polisher.

Blacklight and V7 is not a glaze, they are hybrid sealants with gloss enhancers
Good to use both, blacklight and V7 for final wipe.
Where is a point to buy for example BlackLight and do wax after that? If you need glaze then use pure glaze and then wax, otherwise it makes no sense.

ps. normal glaze do not give protection, need to be sealed after.

So layering sealants is bad ?

News to me.

I thought smaller layers of sealant is better than 1 lump layer?

Ded_Zebra

DetailerCork wrote: »

kidums...... just a clay bar as gpf101 said
if is so bad then u will need extra pair of hands
ps. what is immulsion

Immultion paint is water based paint like you would paint walls with

DetailerCork

listermint wrote: »

So layering sealants is bad ?

News to me.

I thought smaller layers of sealant is better than 1 lump layer?

u mean layering wax on sealant?
if long lasting is your point then is not good
why do sealant and hybrid/natural wax after that, where is the point?
sealants like BL/V7 are for quick use, BL is giving good wet effect and Chemical Guys recommend BL before (for exemple 50/50) but this is only commercial talking.

Ded_Zebra wrote: »

Immultion paint is water based paint like you would paint walls with

that word does not exist i think, it will be emulsion paint

kiddums

gpf101 wrote: »

I used a clay bar to remove some tiny dots of paint recently. Worked a treat.

DetailerCork wrote: »

kidums...... just a clay bar as gpf101 said
if is so bad then u will need extra pair of hands
ps. what is immulsion

It's just the cost of the clay bar that would put me off.

Immulsion paint is paint for someone who plays to much gears of war.:pac:

Ded_Zebra wrote: »

Immultion paint is water based paint like you would paint walls with

DetailerCork wrote: »

that word does not exist i think, it will be emulsion paint

That would be the paint I ment.:cool:

DetailerCork

kiddums wrote: »

It's just the cost of the clay bar that would put me off.

clay bar is 200gr for about 12-15E
you use 20gr at the time, sometimes I do even 2 cars with it
200gr will give you years of play if is not so bad with this emulsion

btkm8unsl0w5r4

V07 hybrid is IMHO a underrated product. As a way to add some protection and a nice shine after washing its great. Take me about 3 minutes do an entire car, mostly you don't even need to buff it off. Its great, it beads but its not long lasting. I use it after my standard wash to "top up" the sealant.

For the full monty, I would clean and polish the paint, then seal or wax or both. Personally I like the finnish of sealants, its more matt than wax and give a more metallic look. I use jet seal and that stuff lasts for months and months if you give it two coats.

Recently tried extra gloss protection as I was give a bottle in a valeting kit. Have to say was impressed with the results although it was arm ache to buff it off. Jetseal is expensive but my favorite product. A layer of 50/50 or AG HD over it give the mirror look if thats what your after. However in this weather wax is a dust magnet,.

If the paint is not corrected, all the results are short term as the fillers in the polish break down on washing. Even 50% correction adds so much depth, metallic flake, and shine to the surface. Recently go a DA and I am working on 100% correction panel by panel, however its a long and probably unachievable goal.

Curran

Nayeli Shaggy Summer wrote: »

Recently tried extra gloss protection as I was give a bottle in a valeting kit. Have to say was impressed with the results although it was arm ache to buff it off.

EGP is a good sealant! But I think it should come with a spray head. I recently emptied the bottle into one with a sprayer head and using a microfibre applicator, spray the EGP onto the applicator and spread.
I find with the bottle the applicator gets soaked, as you end up tipping out too much due to the viscosity of it and then it goes on too thick onto the car! Which of course results in the difficult removal. A good buffing towel will help also.
The combo of the two should result in you being a much happier bunny!

Nonoperational

Agreed. I use the Chemical Guys V7 between major cleaning sessions. Wash the car, give it a dry, spray some V7 and buff off. Dress the tyres and you have a great inbetween routine. I do this once a week or so and do the full monty every 2 months or so.

DetailerCork

However in this weather wax is a dust magnet,.

its because carnuba waxes are "sweating", on another day you can wipe wax with microfibre, also for this process can use QD, if is warn and sunny get car to the sun for a day then wipe.

professional detailers warm wax after applying up to 45-50 oC for 10-15min. , then you leave to could and after that you wipe again with MF

Voodoomelon

Last update I swear, because its done!

Before:


Before:


Half and half (few stone chips and polish residue):


Half and half:


Finished:


Thats the whole car done, will seal it at the weekend!
About 12 long hours in total i'd say. Wheel refurb and respray of the trim will bring it back to like new.

vectra

^^ Super looking job. I bet you are one happy camper

Voodoomelon

Thanks v, sure am.
Pics dont do it justice, the colour is incredibly deep and rich and varies between light blue, dark blue and outright purple depending on the light. I only hope a good wax makes it better again.

vectra

Voodoomelon wrote: »

Thanks v, sure am.
Pics dont do it justice, the deep is incredibly deep and rich and varies between light blue, dark blue and outright purple depending on the light. I only hope a good wax makes it better again.

Yes.
A decent wax will enhance the depth even further.

A Nano product ( ie. Body wrap that I use ) will give a more metallic appearance to it.


As mentioned a wax especially in this weather is a bit of a dust magnet, This is one main reason I use body wrap.

Voodoomelon

That's interesting about the dust, my car seems to attract dust as it is, even after 24 hours.

I can't really be arsed waiting for any wax or wrap bought online, is there anything you'd recommend from Halfords, like Autoglym HD wax?

http://www.halfords.ie/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_11101_catalogId_15551_productId_539009_langId_-1_categoryId_212371

vectra

AG HD wax has got good reviews.
I cannot say how it is as I never used it.