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LEE ENFIELD OWNERS - please read

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  • 09-12-2011 6:24pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 311 ✭✭


    Hi guys,

    I am an experienced shooter, and I am going to buy a lee enfield no1 mk 3 in the new year.

    I am asking a favor. Can any of you that own a camera, and an enfield in good nick, upload a photograph of the bore so I can get a look at what an enfield barrel in good condition should look like.

    Any tips on inspecting an enfield rifle are also welcome (Here or in my other thread - http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2056471392 )

    Cheers


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 5,500 ✭✭✭tac foley


    Hi guys,

    I am an experienced shooter, and I am going to buy a lee enfield no1 mk 3 in the new year.

    I am asking a favor. Can any of you that own a camera, and an enfield in good nick, upload a photograph of the bore so I can get a look at what an enfield barrel in good condition should look like.

    Any tips on inspecting an enfield rifle are also welcome (Here or in my other thread - http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=2056471392 )

    Cheers

    Sir - Unless you have any reservations about posting on another board, can I ask you to either -

    a. Repost your request on www.vcrai.com - where most of the members there have a L-E of one kind or another.

    b. Agree to let me do it on your behalf.

    BTW, is it a III or a III*?

    You should also be aware that IF it is a plain III then not will not only be pretty well-used, unless it has been re-barrelled, but may have many non-matching parts by now. Parts that MUST match are the receiver, barrel [see above] and bolt. Look for the number on the head of the bolt - it may be 1,2,or 3, but that does not mean, if is IS a 3, that it is shot out of headspace - it simply means that THAT was the head that fitted best. Do not be put off by the letters FTR - Factory Through Repair - that just means that it has had a thorough overhaul at some time. Be aware also that the bores on the older guns can vary from .311 right up to .316 - a fact of life in a wartime production run.

    When you get it, let's see it, please.

    Best

    tac



    Thanks

    tac


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,616 ✭✭✭FISMA


    KickStart,
    You're likely to receive few useful responses as the bore is difficult to image, the shot needs to be closeup, and high res. Many people just don't take good enough images.

    I have seen what you are looking for on an American webSite, kind of the ebay of guns - gunbroker.com

    Have a look at this link and you'll see such an image. Click on "view seller's other items" and they will probably have more images.
    http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=263181177

    If I were you I would look at the image and compare to the description of the seller, even if the rifle is different. Don't be afraid to email them questions. At least you will have a starting point.

    Slan


  • Registered Users Posts: 311 ✭✭KickstartHeart


    tac foley wrote: »
    Sir - Unless you have any reservations about posting on another board, can I ask you to either -

    a. Repost your request on www.vcrai.com - where most of the members there have a L-E of one kind or another.

    b. Agree to let me do it on your behalf.

    BTW, is it a III or a III*?

    You should also be aware that IF it is a plain III then not will not only be pretty well-used, unless it has been re-barrelled, but may have many non-matching parts by now. Parts that MUST match are the receiver, barrel [see above] and bolt. Look for the number on the head of the bolt - it may be 1,2,or 3, but that does not mean, if is IS a 3, that it is shot out of headspace - it simply means that THAT was the head that fitted best. Do not be put off by the letters FTR - Factory Through Repair - that just means that it has had a thorough overhaul at some time. Be aware also that the bores on the older guns can vary from .311 right up to .316 - a fact of life in a wartime production run.

    When you get it, let's see it, please.

    Best

    tac



    Thanks

    tac


    I am afraid I dont actually know the difference between a III and a III*. Could you explain it to me? And yes I'd be delighted if you could post that for me on the vcrai site. I am not reluctant, just time constrained at the moment with college exams and dont have the time to go setting up another forum account etc. as I am rarely on the computer lately

    Thanks for those photo's there mate!


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,500 ✭✭✭tac foley


    Sir - consider the post done.

    To counter any ire from the mods about posting details of older guns [this is not a vintage firearms forum and the VCRAI is], I'll send you a pm about the important differences between a III and a III*.

    Best

    tac


  • Registered Users Posts: 83 ✭✭palo


    Hello.

    It is also worth mentioning that when you go looking that you try to get one with all the serial No's matching, the No on the bolt should be the same as the No on the reciver of the rifle itself. A lot of them are not matching not a huge deal but could be awkerd if having a detailed weapon inspection sometime. You no the way we Irish like inspections. All the best. I could not get a good pic of the bore in mine Slan.

    Palo.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 5,500 ✭✭✭tac foley


    @Palo - didn't I say that?

    Quoting my post - 'Parts that MUST match are the receiver, barrel [see above] and bolt.'

    Sure, you'll get us both in the dwang, now, making the post longer like that...:=/

    tac


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,296 ✭✭✭rowa


    It should be said that the no.4 and its derivitives are a redesigned no.1. The no.4 has a heavier action and barrel and are a lot easier to work on , the lee enfield can have finiky bedding but less so with the no.4. The no.4's are also much younger then the no.1's and if you have pockets deep enough you might even come across an unissued no.4 still in its factory grease and wrapping.
    Collectors also look out for a no.5 , this is the jungle carbine , its a lot lighter and has a distinctive cone shaped muzzle flash hider, along with a cut down stock.


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