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Fitting a multifuel stove.

  • 12-12-2011 4:24pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,901 ✭✭✭✭


    I am considering getting a small 3kw multifuel stove to burn coal. The fireplace is very small & it would be very difficult to fit a register plate - there is barely enough width for a flue. I plan to fit a sheet of steel over the front of the fireplace to completely seal the opening. Then I would have a hole for the flue pipe & a removable panel for soot removal. I would use the rear flue exit on the stove, go horizontally through the plate, fit a 90 degree & have about a metre of pipe up into the chimney.

    So the stove would be freestanding in front of the old fireplace. As I would only be burning coal I can't see any issues with condensation or low temperatures. The only concern might be the void behind the plate filling with smoke if there is a backdraft. But once the fire is hot convection would take over.

    Will this work & can anyone see any other possible problems ?


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 789 ✭✭✭650gs


    100% what your doing but 3kw is very very very small even if it is a small room go bigger better to have to open the doors than have a small stove that is a waste of time


  • Registered Users Posts: 81 ✭✭inovo


    Had a 6kw fitted last week. Same setup with thecast iron plate however if your fire never had an issue with down draughts before a 90 degree bend and 1m pipe into the chimney is not required. Slot the flue from the stove through the plate and any smoke will go up the chimney as the smoke is going into a natural fire place.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,901 ✭✭✭✭Discodog


    650gs wrote: »
    100% what your doing but 3kw is very very very small even if it is a small room go bigger better to have to open the doors than have a small stove that is a waste of time

    I agree that it will probably be a 5kw - they seem to be cheaper as it is a more common size.

    inovo wrote: »
    Had a 6kw fitted last week. Same setup with thecast iron plate however if your fire never had an issue with down draughts before a 90 degree bend and 1m pipe into the chimney is not required. Slot the flue from the stove through the plate and any smoke will go up the chimney as the smoke is going into a natural fire place.

    The argument is that the fireplace is a dead space & that smoke can eddy rather than going up the chimney. The interesting thing is that none of the online info mentions this method & everyone recommends a register plate. The big advantage to this method is it's much easier to sweep the chimney.

    Did your stove installer recommend this or did you do it yourself ?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,389 ✭✭✭Carlow52


    Apart from looking pretty ugly and requires the hearth to be enlarged, the main reason this method is not mentioned is that it may not meet with Part J under the requirement for the appliance to vent into a flue or a chimney and that bends should not exceed 37.5 degrees
    http://www.environ.ie/en/TGD/


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,901 ✭✭✭✭Discodog


    I can't envisage it as ugly at all. The stove will be nearly as tall as the fireplace so it will cover most of the plate. Also there is no reason why one couldn't come out at a shallower angle than 90 degrees. Another benefit is that it is much easier to achieve a smoke seal when one can see & access the joints rather than with a plate up the chimney.

    Just a thought but I have seen loads of flues especially for wood stoves that have a 90 degree bend. They are usually a "curved" 90 rather than a direct 90 but they are still 90 degrees & run through the exterior wall & then to an up pipe.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 789 ✭✭✭650gs


    I would still use the mtr of flue pipe remember with these stoves trow out amazing heat and nearly always crack the old flue we always recommend at least 1 mtr of flue pipe


  • Registered Users Posts: 81 ✭✭inovo


    Discodog wrote: »
    I agree that it will probably be a 5kw - they seem to be cheaper as it is a more common size.




    The argument is that the fireplace is a dead space & that smoke can eddy rather than going up the chimney. The interesting thing is that none of the online info mentions this method & everyone recommends a register plate. The big advantage to this method is it's much easier to sweep the chimney.

    Did your stove installer recommend this or did you do it yourself ?

    Installer recommended it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,161 ✭✭✭cubix


    Is it not a case that a flue liner needs to be run from the stove to chimney pot. Have been thinking of putting in a stove for while, house is 2 storey 10yr old with clay liners (8" i think). Was thinking a 4/5kw multi fuel job, due to fireplace being small I was going to sit stove onto a temporary hearth in front and remove come summer. So do I need to run a flue liner (316/904) top to bottom?

    Thanks


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 7 insulation monkey


    Most fitters use an adapter to connect to the existing clay liner which will create a smoke seal from the stove to the flue
    Register plate to close fireplace is best for looks only and not a good or easy location to create a smoke seal as it moves with heat and over a year the fire cement will fallout.

    Remember soot is flammable and can cause chimney fires so dont just worry about smoke getting out, you must prevent soot building up behind register plates or on top of rockwool around pipes stuffed up chimneys.

    A stove fitter would never recommend pushing 1 meter of pipe up a chimney so maybe get another fitters advice



    Checkout link below or google clay adapter

    http://www.miflues.ie/Departments/Clay-Adaptors/Clay-Adaptor-Kit.aspx


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