Aritech CS350 - Alarm triggering with interior lights switching on and off

davkav

Ok this is very strange. If I open any of the windows or tap the inertia sensors the loop reading does not change.

I double checked the zone in engineering mode and I am definitely checking the correct one.

zg3409

I am not sure on the CS350 but one loop is probably tamper (two of the wires) which stay closed even if the window is opened, and other loop for intruder detection.

Many "Window contacts" do not detect if the window is opened, just if there is vibration, then open for a fraction of a second.

In order to have a window contact every part that opens needs a seperate sensor.

You need to disconnect at the panel end before testing with a multimeter.

davkav

Yes I am disconnected at the panel end. No resistors in line either.

Every window has a contact fitted to it and an one inertia sensor. So for example the sitting room window which has two opening windows has two contacts and one inertia fitted.

I was just going through the engineering menu and checking the configuration of the zones.

Zone 1 the front door is Entry/Exit
Zone 2 - 6 are Alarm

Does anyone have and engineering manual handy?

KoolKid

Sent you the engineer manual.

davkav

KoolKid wrote: »

Sent you the engineer manual.

Thanks KoolKid



This gets better and better. Turns out neither of my panic switches are hooked up. I wonder did the original owner of the house wire the alarm himself...

The panic switch beside the front door has only one wire going to it, the second one is hanging loose in the keypad. And then when I traced those two wires up to the panel they aren't even connected to anything, there wrapped around the mains cable....

davkav

Ok quick question, I know Im getting side tracked to my original faulty zone issue but I may as well fix the panic buttons whilst I am at it.

Can the panic buttons be wired to a zone and that zone set to be a 'Tamper' Zone?
I have set it like this but the alarm does not seem to trigger when I press the panic button?

KoolKid

davkav wrote: »

Can the panic buttons be wired to a zone and that zone set to be a 'Tamper' Zone?
I have set it like this but the alarm does not seem to trigger when I press the panic button?

It can, but its not the right way to do it. Also it will only activate the internal bell if the system is not armed.
Change the zone type to Panic?

davkav

KoolKid wrote: »

It can, but its not the right way to do it. Also it will only activate the internal bell if the system is not armed.
Change the zone type to Panic?

I overlooked the PA attribute. Panic Alarm duh...

altor

Another option would be to activate the keypad panic in the miscellaneous menu, PA menu. What this does it when you press the the arrow up and arrow down key together it activates a panic alarm.

davkav

altor wrote: »

Another option would be to activate the keypad panic in the miscellaneous menu, PA menu. What this does it when you press the the arrow up and arrow down key together it activates a panic alarm.

Good to know Altor but the panic button is right beside the keypad and its much easier to explain to the other half

davkav

Sorry guys for all the questions.

Does the panic button loop need a resistor in line?

Also Im going to pick up a few more resistors during the week and wire all the loops with Dual EOL.

altor

davkav wrote: »

Good to know Altor but the panic button is right beside the keypad and its much easier to explain to the other half

Cant argue with that

altor

davkav wrote: »

Sorry guys for all the questions.

Does the panic button loop need a resistor in line?

Also Im going to pick up a few more resistors during the week and wire all the loops with Dual EOL.

Yes all zones either need 1 resistor if set up as alarm or 2 resistors if set up for duel.

KoolKid

Probably esier for you to go single EOL if you are looping 2 panic buttons.

davkav

OK jackpot.

I still cant get my head around it though.

One of the inertia sensors was the cause. When I last checked the loop resistance it was ~16 ohms. And then when I went to troubleshoot the inertia sensor the loop broke without me touching any wires, just by simply taking the cover off of the sensor.

I bypassed the inertia sensor and the loop resistance dropped to 2.5 ohms. Bingo.

So I swapped in a known good inertia sensor and the same thing happened?!?! The loop stayed broken. Bypassed the inertia sensor once again and the resistance dropped to 2.5 ohms...

KoolKid

Just get that replaced & your laughing (Or sleeping peacefully;))

davkav

Yeah will do.

The shopping list just got bigger, I found one faulty panic button and one faulty contact.

The contact doesn't effect the alarm whether it is closed or open...

Anyway hopefully the inertia sensor was the one and only cause of the false alarms.

Many thanks to KoolKid and the rest for all your help.

Hopefully I can sleep soundly tonight.

KoolKid

davkav wrote: »

The shopping list just got bigger, I found one faulty panic button and one faulty contact.

Yeah, I ment to say that earlier. Usually when you see a panic button disconnected, its been done for a reason.

davkav

New inertia sensor fitted last night and everythiing seems hunky dory. The loop resistance is nice and low.

Ive fitted the new panic buttons as well, just need to wire them into the panel this evening.

Quick question should the Zone attributes for a loop that has contacts and inertia sensors be In, La?

altor

davkav wrote: »

Quick question should the Zone attributes for a loop that has contacts and inertia sensors be In, La?

No LA and no LS will give a full activation for an activation on either the shock or contact. It can be set to give a local alarm for the shock activation and a full for the window being open, No LA and no LS would be the better option.

davkav

altor wrote: »

No LA and no LS will give a full activation for an activation on either the shock or contact. It can be set to give a local alarm for the shock activation and a full for the window being open, No LA and no LS would be the better option.

Great Stuff. Thanks Altor.

In other news the alarm went off twice last night.... Arrrghh

Time to check the other 2 inertia sensors in the Zone me thinks.

altor

davkav wrote: »

Great Stuff. Thanks Altor.

In other news the alarm went off twice last night.... Arrrghh

Time to check the other 2 inertia sensors in the Zone me thinks.

Your welcome,

When you find a faulty device it is best to disconnect the sensor and join the cable together to continue the loop and move onto the next device and test.
It can happen to have more than 1 faulty device on a loop.

davkav

I will do that next time for sure.

I replaced the other sensors in the loop last night and all seems good.

Ill give it a few days and if the alarm goes off again Im getting the hammer out

altor

davkav wrote: »

I will do that next time for sure.

I replaced the other sensors in the loop last night and all seems good.

Ill give it a few days and if the alarm goes off again Im getting the hammer out

Ha Ha, don't go that far

It is better to get all these issues sorted now before you do upgrade the system as you will still get the same faults if the sensors are faulty with any other control panel.

davkav

altor wrote: »

Ha Ha, don't go that far

It is better to get all these issues sorted now before you do upgrade the system as you will still get the same faults if the sensors are faulty with any other control panel.

The hammer will have two uses, smashing my present alarm and becoming my new anti-intruder device


That is the plan though, get everything up and running 100% before I upgrade anything. I ordered the new panel today but I reckon I will wait for two weeks before I fit it, just to be sure the Aritech is working without faults.

altor

davkav wrote: »

The hammer will have two uses, smashing my present alarm and becoming my new anti-intruder device


That is the plan though, get everything up and running 100% before I upgrade anything. I ordered the new panel today but I reckon I will wait for two weeks before I fit it, just to be sure the Aritech is working without faults.

That is the best thing to do.

davkav

So just a quick update.

The alarm is fully functional now and has not gone off once in error.

There are only 3 more inertia sensors in the house so I think I will update them with new HKC ones as well and replace the standalone contacts whilst Im at it. There all yellow as well from the previous owner smoking in the house aswell.

KoolKid

Easy enough to to source & do. Make noes of all connections & if you are unsure take photos as well.
Once thats done you ready for your new panel.

blue nile

Thank you DAVKAV i was able to fix the exact same problem you described on my CS350 by replacing the battery .....Your advice WORKED.

blue nile

I can confirm that a Battery change also fixed the same fault on my CS350 .