Couple of insulation questions

TheBazman

Hi all

Like a lot of people I had quite a bit of trouble keeping the house warm over the past month or two (detached bungalow c 2200 sq feet, built 1998).

Just looking for some advice

1/ There is insulation in the attic but I guess not enough. There are also a lot of pipes, wires, holders for spotlights etc (as well as the usual crap stored up there). I will need to get the spot lights sorted with the flowerpot type things around them first but is it likely that if I get someone in to do the attic insulation they will lay it out manually or blow it in? Given that either way it will be above the beams is it likely that I would be able to get them to floor it for me (proper floor and not just access to the tank)?

2/ Is it agreed that pumping the walls with beading is the best option?

3/ There are a lot of draughts from all the windows (wooden frame). Ultimately I will have to get them replaced but is getting them sealed a decent fix in the meantime

4/ Finally, before any of that should I get someone in to do an air tightness test?

Cheers

MicktheMan

TheBazman wrote: »

Hi all

Like a lot of people I had quite a bit of trouble keeping the house warm over the past month or two (detached bungalow c 2200 sq feet, built 1998).

Just looking for some advice

1/ There is insulation in the attic but I guess not enough. There are also a lot of pipes, wires, holders for spotlights etc (as well as the usual crap stored up there). I will need to get the spot lights sorted with the flowerpot type things around them first but is it likely that if I get someone in to do the attic insulation they will lay it out manually or blow it in? Given that either way it will be above the beams is it likely that I would be able to get them to floor it for me (proper floor and not just access to the tank)?

2/ Is it agreed that pumping the walls with beading is the best option?

3/ There are a lot of draughts from all the windows (wooden frame). Ultimately I will have to get them replaced but is getting them sealed a decent fix in the meantime

4/ Finally, before any of that should I get someone in to do an air tightness test?

Cheers

Get a air tightness test done (maybe combined with a thermal imaging survey) first as, based on what you posted, lack of airtightness may well be the significant heat loss mechanism in your house.

TheBazman

Cheers Mick - any idea what the rough cost of that test would be?

MicktheMan

Rough cost would be somewhere between 250 & 350 euro.

TheBazman

Thanks for that

Joe10000

I have very similar problems to the OP and will also get that test done. My concern with making the house air tight is that it was built without any vents in the walls.

TheBazman

Also if anyone has any recommendations for any of the work above in the Kildare area could they pm me? Cheers

muffler

Just to add that if you intend getting an air tightness test carried out you should try to get obvious problems sorted out first such as gaps around waste pipes exiting through the walls, sealing around trap door, weather seals fitted to doors etc etc etc.

Carlow52

TheBazman wrote: »

Given that either way it will be above the beams is it likely that I would be able to get them to floor it for me (proper floor and not just access to the tank)?

will the existing ceiling joists take the load u have in mind for a proper floor?

how is the roof space ventilated, assuming there is black felt or similar non breathable stuff inside the roof tiles/slates?

if the soffit boards are the source of the ventilation then make sure they dont get blocked, especially if going blown

TheBazman

Carlow52 wrote: »

will the existing ceiling joists take the load u have in mind for a proper floor?

how is the roof space ventilated, assuming there is black felt or similar non breathable stuff inside the roof tiles/slates?

if the soffit boards are the source of the ventilation then make sure they dont get blocked, especially if going blown

Cheers - When I say proper floor I mean something that will give me decent storage space - it will never be a proper room with regular access.

Yeah think it is pretty standard with regard to the inside of the roof

Good point re the soffit boards - pretty important to leave enough ventilation

TheBazman

muffler wrote: »

Just to add that if you intend getting an air tightness test carried out you should try to get obvious problems sorted out first such as gaps around waste pipes exiting through the walls, sealing around trap door, weather seals fitted to doors etc etc etc.

Thanks - I do have a stira which doesnt have any sealing around it so I support I need to get something to cover that over?

I'll be doing a fair bit of investigation over the next few weeks to try and sort out any obvious problems as you say but I think a real problem for me are the windows and the draughts. I thought I would get the air tightness test done first and that would point me as to the priorities to get sorted. However do you think I should get the windows sorted first? What/Where is the best place to look at getting these sorted/Can they be resealed?

wex13

Hi all, first time post. Would anyone be able to help me with the following queries?
I live in a 3 bed semi built at the height of the boom. Its a traditional cavity wall construction with rigid insulation and insulated plasterboard on all external walls.
1. Is it possible to fill the rest of the cavity and if so would it be any addition and what product should be used
2. There is a terrible draft coming from the bottom of the walls which is particularly noticeable in the kitchen from behind the presses.This isn't good for the 2 young kids playing on the floor. I presume this sicoming from the attic down the void between the insulated plasterboard and blockwork. I have tried sealing it in the attic with foam but no joy. Any suggestions or solutions?

MicktheMan

wex13 wrote: »

Hi all, first time post. Would anyone be able to help me with the following queries?
I live in a 3 bed semi built at the height of the boom. Its a traditional cavity wall construction with rigid insulation and insulated plasterboard on all external walls.
1. Is it possible to fill the rest of the cavity and if so would it be any addition and what product should be used
2. There is a terrible draft coming from the bottom of the walls which is particularly noticeable in the kitchen from behind the presses.This isn't good for the 2 young kids playing on the floor. I presume this sicoming from the attic down the void between the insulated plasterboard and blockwork. I have tried sealing it in the attic with foam but no joy. Any suggestions or solutions?

Imo you problem is more to do with lack of airtightness than insulation weakness. Unfortunately this is not easily rectified without major remedial work.

1. What depth is the residual cavity? Assuming that the depth is appropriate, I have my doubts whether filling it will have much of an effect based on your post. But it shouldn't do any harm if done in compliance with it's iab cert.
2. Behind your internal insulated plasterboard are more than likely bare concrete blocks which are porous and thus not airtight. This is more than likely the cause of your draughts between floor and walls. This is a major flaw in the insulated plasterboard builds and cannot be easily properly rectified. Removing skirting and applying an air tightness tape between floor and walls may ease the symtoms somewhat. Also check under the kitchen sink and bath for any penetrations of inner leaf by piping and make sure these are sealed. Btw, foam isn't airtight.