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chainsaw mill

  • 28-12-2011 2:40pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 19


    does anybody use a small chainsawmill to mill logs
    im thinking of geting one to mill a bit of ash and other stuf and make small table tops and outdoor benches as a hobby
    the thing is i have a ms290 56cc with a 20" bar and i dont think its strong enough id be happy with 9" boards
    i was looking at a 24" alaskan mill
    im very tempted


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    You need more power to rip through end grain, I would go for something around 100cc, or 85cc minimum. Stihl MS660 would be one option.
    Have a look at the Logosol site, they do a great range of mills.


  • Registered Users Posts: 19 091chippy


    id love the 660 but to much money€1100 for the amount i would use it


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,894 ✭✭✭Odelay


    If you use the right type of chain it is easier on the machine and you will not need as much horse power. This is my experience from sawing with circular saws, number of teeth, hook angle, rake angle etc make the job easier. A rip chain compared to a regular chain should make it 10x easier, just make sure to buy at least two of them and don't ever force it. If you need to force the saw, stop, smack your lazy ass and take it off to be sharpened!
    Certain saws are for crosscut and certain saws are for ripping. The same will apply with chains. Ask your dealer about rip chains. Just make sure you are using "chain and bar oil" not something out of the two stroke can.

    http://www.oregonchain.com/pro/products/chain/ripping_95R.htm

    As for your venture, make sure you have your sums done. In hardwood the best yield I would expect for 10M3 of log in is 4.5M3 out, or 45%. That is if you are sawing 3 inch timber with good sideboards (1 outside and 2 inch inside) and all timber is edged (wane cut off and straight, ends trimmed to length). You will do better selling with wane or not edged but some furniture makers want one straight edge to run through their saw.

    If you have the cash and are interested in it go ahead as a hobby, it you want to test the market for your furniture, buy some timber off the guys on done deal and try your luck first.
    Hope this helps (and mind your sums!), best of luck, let me know how it goes.
    Odelay


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    Ripping chain is usually 10deg on one tooth and then 0 deg on the next, keep the rakers high so the saw doesn't bog.
    TBH it doesn't matter what you use milling with saws you need power, and increased oiling as well. Lots of guys put an auxiliary oiler to help with lubing.
    Logosol do bars and chains for ripping but its easy to make one yourself with a bit of time.


  • Registered Users Posts: 19 091chippy


    thanks for the help I was going to get a riping chain with the alaskan mill but im afarid I will have to buy a new saw when I test it out:eek:
    I cut alot of ash as firewood clearing land its an awfull waist burning lovely
    timber . thought id try and do something usefull with it


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,121 ✭✭✭TomOnBoard


    I've also thought it a waste to cut up otherwise apparently good logs like Ash and Sycamore just for firewood.

    From looking at a lot of YouTube videos and US sites, I'd go along with the advice to get a ripping chain rather than a whole new saw. Take it easy while ripping and, unless you're going to be working for hours every day, you should be ok with a 290 for a while at least.

    Please keep us posted.


  • Registered Users Posts: 19 091chippy


    thanks tom
    I have also been looking into buying a good bandsaw insted because ill probally only mill timber no longer than 6 foot
    I wonder what size bandsaw would I need :confused:


  • Registered Users Posts: 83 ✭✭dipper.meath16


    Hi OP, Where abouts are you from? We use an alaskin mill with a 66, its the only job, anything less and you be pissing against the wind, power wise! Or if you know of anybody with a woodmiser, some job! if not i might be able to help ya out with a few contacts!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 267 ✭✭teepee


    091chippy wrote: »
    id love the 660 but to much money€1100 for the amount i would use it
    When i both my MS 660 and started up for the first time with full trotal , you really feel the power in your hands , great saw would cut through any thing , i had got a four ft dia. Beech tree to cut up for fire woood knocked for 3 years the ms 660 when through it like a hot knife through butter .
    A big fan of the Ms 660 .


  • Registered Users Posts: 45 hplp


    try an ms880.........:cool:


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1 Colin Dorgan


    Hi OP, Where abouts are you from? We use an alaskin mill with a 66, its the only job, anything less and you be pissing against the wind, power wise! Or if you know of anybody with a woodmiser, some job! if not i might be able to help ya out with a few contacts!

    Do you happen to know anyone in cork who might have a chainsaw mill?
    I'm in the Fermoy area.


  • Registered Users Posts: 167 ✭✭junospider


    made a mill for the 660 myself,works a treat,look it up on youtube.A mate of mine in cork mills a lot of timber with a 660,I will pm you his number.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,079 ✭✭✭Reindeer


    The good news is if you want to destroy a saw milling, an MS290 is a good choice. The bad news is you will destroy that 290 if you mill with it. The MS290 is designed for occasional firewood use. It is unable to deal with the heat, and the chore of milling, nor will it oil nearly enough for anything besides the smallest of logs. There really is no compromise in milling if you plan to do any real volume. You will need ripping/chipper chain, and you will need CC's.

    Some older stihls are ported well for torque. An 041 in good order would do OK in small volumes and save you a lot of dough. 041's seem to be everywhere nowadays. If you can get an 056 or 076, even better.


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