oil burner

thomand

my oil burner stopped working so i decided to have a look at it myself. I took it out changed the nozzle cleaned the electrodes, cleaned the photocell and put it back in. Turned it on but no joy. When you press the red button the fan comes on then the electrodes start sparking but no oil. I opened the return line on the oil pump when this was happening and oil came spraying out. This leads me to thinking its the solenoid valve ? would i be correct and how would i test it? Thanks

Billy Bunting

Depends on the burner but a simple all round test without a meter would be to remove the coil, place a screwdriver or allen key in the centre, fire the burner and see if the screwdriver/allen key lifts.

thomand

thanks billy its a riello burner. any idea how much a solenoid valve is? or the price of a new burner worst case scenario for a 50/90 ?

Billy Bunting

Depends where you buy and if your trade,

€15/30 for the coil, €20/40 for the stem.

thomand

sorry.. coil?.. stem?
Is the stem the bar that goes into the pump and the coil the piece that goes over it tied on with a nut with a wire going to the control box?

Billy Bunting

Thats it.

thomand

i had the coil off already il have to see how the stem comes out

Billy Bunting

Do you need both ? have you tested the coil ??

Billy Bunting

Do you need both ? have you tested the coil ??

Billy Bunting

Do you need both ? have you tested the coil ??

thomand

yea tested the coil and the srewdriver appeared to be moving

Billy Bunting

Then you shouldnt need the coil, put it back on, and crack open the nozzle supply tube on the back of the pump, any fuel when reset ??

Have you had a oil pressure gauge on this ?

thomand

i dont have a gauge i think it might be to the point to have it looked at now people are back working tomorrow. if their is oil coming out if i was to take the off would that mean the pump, coil are working then what would be the problem? its just a pipe from their to the nozzle from what i can tell and the nozzle is new?

Billy Bunting

If you have fuel there then your solenoid is fine and i would suspect the pump, you really need an oil pressure gauge to be sure of whats going on.

thomand

il check it tomorrow and if their is oil il get a gauge if it dosent cost a bomb if not il call someone. thanks for all your help billy and just one last question what pressure should the pump be at? Thanks again

Billy Bunting

Depends really on how it was commissioned but in general Kero is set at 8bar, Oil at 12.

DGOBS

I would never suggest to run the burner with the pump to nozzle pipework disconnected as this will lead to you or the area being soaked with fuel and possible fire risks ensuing.

If you are unsure about fuel supply, after trying to run the appliance, remove and look to see if the blast tube is wet. If so precede with caution as the boiler may have a lot of unburnt fuel in its base from the unsuccessful firing

If it's dry, the fuel supply needs checking along with solenoids, never use a screwdriver in an unmounted solenoid to check, if it is faulty, and the fault has led to a cracked casing you could be in for a nasty shock!

Assuming as you said it's 2 piped supply, then there should be no need to bleed the fuel line of air, but do try bleed any air by loosening the vacuum port of the pump and see if some fuel bubbles out. Or if the burner has a hydraulic air shutter on the RHS of the burner, look and see if it lifts to open durning the 12seconds of pre-purge (this is a good indicator of fuel supply and pump generating at least a 'wash' pressure) if not, the again, fuel or pump will generally be the issue

As the burner is a riello (assuming its an r40 / g series) remove the photocell for the control box, replace control box and try it, after 12 seconds if it fires briefly, replace the photocell

Come back, give as much detail as you can muster

Billy Bunting

DGOBS wrote: »

I would never suggest to run the burner with the pump to nozzle pipework disconnected

Too right, and neither did i, i suggested "cracking it open" far from disconnecting it, if you had a blocked nozzle and no oil pressure gauge how would you suggest the OP check if the solenoid is opening.

DGOBS

lol, call a service technician!
and check the solenoid for resistance, change the nozzle

Lol, I have suggested similar things to 'qualfied techs' who rang me back doused in fuel.......I SAID LOOSEN!

Billy Bunting

DGOBS wrote: »

lol, call a service technician!
and check the solenoid for resistance, change the nozzle

Lol, I have suggested similar things to 'qualfied techs' who rang me back doused in fuel.......I SAID LOOSEN!

"Qualified", right! chevron or metac

thomand

the technician called yesterday and said the oil pump was faulty and changed it with a second hand one, how true that is i dont know as i wasnt around at the time but working away for now anyway

gerjj123

my oil burner wont fire no spark at electrodes help

Billy Bunting

gerjj123 wrote: »

my oil burner wont fire no spark at electrodes help

A little more info ??

Make, Model, Boiler, lockout, is the reset button illuminated ??

corkplumber

ye solanide or stem. as billy states small allen key for solanide or a magnet to test the stem .

Dtp79

corkplumber wrote: »

ye solanide or stem. as billy states small allen key for solanide or a magnet to test the stem .

Small Allen key?

corkplumber

Dtp79 wrote: »

Small Allen key?

well a smally allen key as long as fits inside.

agusta

corkplumber wrote: »

ye solanide or stem. as billy states small allen key for solanide or a magnet to test the stem .

why not just check its resistance...,far safer

corkplumber

agusta wrote: »

why not just check its resistance...,far safer

well thats what id do. but i was giving advice to a diyer not a pro like meself.

Billy Bunting

agusta wrote: »

why not just check its resistance...,far safer

People seem to be jumping onto the tail end of an old thread, a thread that was the OP not having tools for testing and as the OP has since reported the problem cured replies to their problem are no longer required.

The question now is from Gerjj123
my oil burner wont fire no spark at electrodes help

corkplumber

Billy Bunting wrote: »

People seem to be jumping onto the tail end of an old thread, a thread that was the OP not having tools for testing and as the OP has since reported the problem cured replies to their problem are no longer required.

The question now is from Gerjj123
my oil burner wont fire no spark at electrodes help

sorry billy. electrical fault or transformer.

agusta multimeter for this one.

shane0007

Could be any number of things, from photocell, to coil, to oil pump to control box!
Ignition is the third last sequence of ignition. If any of the previous ones do not occur, it will not even try to spark.
So as Billy says, more info, lock out, burner type, etc required.

gerjj123

thanks for your reply its a bentone burner yes I can check out transformer.ect what I really wont to know is what sends the signal to start the electrodes is it the control box ,

crock!

Control box tells every thing to happen.its a bentone and it doesnt spark but you get oil?check if blastube is wet.i would check the electrodes for damage and the cap between them and where they are positioned to the nozzle.also check the leads at the electroids and transformer.check for a good conection.

gerjj123

crock! wrote: »

Control box tells every thing to happen.its a bentone and it doesnt spark but you get oil?check if blastube is wet.i would check the electrodes for damage and the cap between them and where they are positioned to the nozzle.also check the leads at the electroids and transformer.check for a good conection.

thanks ill check does tomorrow yes motor is starting up and im getting oil then its locking out