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Katana Sword Rusting

  • 06-01-2012 10:24pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 645 ✭✭✭


    Hope I'm posting this in the right forum, posting on behalf of my OH.


    He has his Katana Sword for the past 8 years and for the past year- year half,both sides of the sword have started rusting. One side is particularly worse than the other.

    He uses Duraglit once every two months to polish it but it is still tarnished from the rust.

    Has anyone ever experienced this before?

    He is wondering is there anything else he could use to restore it to its former glory? :)


    Thanks in advance
    Tagged:


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,158 ✭✭✭Chris89


    The only true way to cleanse the blade is to draw blood on the battlefield.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 23,246 ✭✭✭✭Dyr


    ehh..blood is really corrosive so don't do that. :rolleyes:


    Presuming this thing isn't actually worth a few bob:

    there's a few commercial products that you can use to remove rust ( I can't remember the one i've used) but if its badly rusted then the damage is done and the former glory is staying former, you might have to also use something like a wire brush to try get it all out, it will pit and mark the blade though.

    Try to figure out why its only rusted in the last few years...there's has to be a change in its environment if it had gone that long without corroding.

    Also, I've no idea what duragilt is but assuming its a polish (ie wears off steel) he should lay off it a bit and try oiling it regularly instead ( i.e protect the steel )


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 645 ✭✭✭buzsywuzsy


    Bambi wrote: »
    ehh..blood is really corrosive so don't do that. :rolleyes:


    Presuming this thing isn't actually worth a few bob:

    there's a few commercial products that you can use to remove rust ( I can't remember the one i've used) but if its badly rusted then the damage is done and the former glory is staying former, you might have to also use something like a wire brush to try get it all out, it will pit and mark the blade though.

    Try to figure out why its only rusted in the last few years...there's has to be a change in its environment if it had gone that long without corroding.

    Also, I've no idea what duragilt is but assuming its a polish (ie wears off steel) he should lay off it a bit and try oiling it regularly instead ( i.e protect the steel )

    Thanks for your reply..

    He paid $300 for it in the States.. is that dear?

    We were trying to figure out why one side is worse than the other. Considering maybe the 'holder' (don't know it's proper name) is damaged inside????

    Ya, Duraglit is metal wadding polish.

    This is probably a stupid question but what type of oil are you suggesting?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 23,246 ✭✭✭✭Dyr


    It ain't cheap but it ain't a family heirloom I guess

    look for mineral oil.. traditional japanese method is mineral oil with some clove oil added, called choji. I've used stuff like wd 40 in the past, seemed okay :pac: Oiling is preventative though so it won't fix rust. It's possible its the scabbard.. scabbards were supposedly avoided for long term storage because leather/wood will retain moisture.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 622 ✭✭✭Deise Musashi


    Sounds like a carbon steel doing what nature wants it to do :(

    Polish off the rust (I'm guessing spots and streaks rather than full on red coating?) and oil the blade with mineral oil, ren wax or 3in1 oil. Protect it from the moist air really.

    If the duraglit isn't getting it done, he'll need some micromesh abrasive for a "ghetto polish". That's plenty good enough for a Chenness or Paul Chen PPK sword ;)

    Check under the handle also, the rust may be worse where the eye hasn't been for a while?

    Store the sword on a stand on the mantle or similar, the sheath was for taking to battle, everyday she sat out in full view with a nice airy atmosphere around to prevent condensation.

    Does he use the sword for cutting or patterns? What make is it (ignore my guesses above) and if known what steel are we talking about?

    If it's not really used other than taking it out for a fondle then Ren. Wax is the Daddy! It's what museums use to preserve exhibits, so will do no harm at all.

    Let us know how ye get on either way.

    Cheers ;)


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,029 ✭✭✭HammerHeadGym


    I'd have said clean the rust, use powdered lime and cheese cloth to polish it up again and a liberal coating of oil of cloves, although if it's only cost 200 yo yo's 8 years ago, I doubt there's much need to source those and just go for the wax option.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 282 ✭✭maguffin


    You might have a look at this link:

    http://www.chenessinc.com/cleaning.htm

    and here's a link with descriptions of the different parts of the sword:

    http://www.trueswords.com/art_of_katana.php


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 645 ✭✭✭buzsywuzsy


    Thanks for all the info..

    I'll give it to him and let ye know how it goes.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,270 ✭✭✭deegs


    Does he have a reason to keep such a sword?
    Isn't it illegal?

    I doubt very much you could get a katana for 300 dollars, I'd be leaning more towards the 'wallhanger' type sword. And at that its composition is anyone's guess...

    There are sword care kits that should be used, the oils mentioned above are perfect, but you'd also use a like powder with an oiling.

    For a decent sword.... NEVER EVER touch it with a wire brish or similiar ;)

    You need specific stones of varying grades to get a correct polish that would remove the layers of metal that have become oxidised.

    You're talking thousands to get that done by someone who knows what they are doing...

    Prob best to bin it tbh... the rust is within the metal now and preventative measures won't work any more, you will need it repaired.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 622 ✭✭✭Deise Musashi


    I doubt very much you could get a katana for 300 dollars
    boxkaze.jpg

    [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Differentially Hardened 9260 - "Kaze" Katana [/FONT]
    [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] Sale Price: $299.99 [/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]


    HW6000XPF-practical-xl-katana.jpg
    [/FONT]Practical XL Katana OUR PRICE: £150.52 / €180.62 (Including VAT at 20%)


    Decent cutting swords are available, traditionally made and suitable for cutting practice in martial arts. His sword may not be a "sword like object", a picture or two especially with the handle removed would clear that up.
    You need specific stones of varying grades to get a correct polish that would remove the layers of metal that have become oxidised.
    If you were talking antique or very high grade production swords, then a classic polish is the way to go. For a competition cutter I would use the hybrid polish method using micro mesh abrasives.
    Prob best to bin it tbh... the rust is within the metal now and preventative measures won't work any more, you will need it repaired.
    Again that would depend on the sword and level of damage that's occured. I would not bin it without someone taking a look. Any Aikido or Kendo schools local to you OP? Or any Korean sword schools, Haidong Gumdo or that? Someone there probably should be able to judge the sword and if it's worth restoring. Can't hurt to ask.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 645 ✭✭✭buzsywuzsy


    He now has it out of the scabbard and resting on its stand so we might start seeing some inprovement.

    Dumping isn't an option for him, he loves it too much :D

    His Sensei gave it to him when he was living in San Francisco and we don't know where he sourced it..

    I'll try and take a few photos tonight and upload them..Just so ye can see the damage


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12 dipti


    Try "Noxxon" , a commercial metal polish available at Home Depot. Also the rust/stains will come off with a metal polish but do take care as they are abrasive and if you have a sword with an etched hamon, it could take that off as well.To avoid it happening again, keep a cloth impregnated with oil handy and wipe the blade down between targets, if not between cuts.


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