The Surfing Book Thread

keryl

Right

Well seeing as there is a Photo and Movie thread, I was thinking I would love to hear what people are reading and recommend in terms of books.

So here goes

I was traveling 'around' Australia earlier this year and picked up Nat Young's: Nats Nat and That's That

It's the biography of Sydney's Nat Young, World Champion Surfer and winner of various Australian comps. The book covers his early life growing up in middle class Australia when the baby boomers were in full motion. The stories of his youth as a Grom and the fierce and controversial competition he faced along the way with other Australian surfers. All the big names of Australian surfing appear in the book including Bob McTavish and Wayne Lynch. The struggle they faced with the Vietnam enrollment and the backlash against surfers during that period.
For those that are interested in the country folk movement that surfers were immersed in, this book goes into depth of that lifestyle.
He also talks of his son Beau and Joel Tudor and the various directions he went after surfing including his farm in Byron Bay and his attempts at Aviation and filmmaking.

Not the best review but defintely worth a read. I couldn't put it down, they led an amazing life.


:cool:

Low Pockets

keryl wrote: »

Right

Well seeing as there is a Photo and Movie thread, I was thinking I would love to hear what people are reading and recommend in terms of books.

So here goes

I was traveling 'around' Australia earlier this year and picked up Nat Young's: Nats Nat and That's That

It's the biography of Sydney's Nat Young, World Champion Surfer and winner of various Australian comps. The book covers his early life growing up in middle class Australia when the baby boomers were in full motion. The stories of his youth as a Grom and the fierce and controversial competition he faced along the way with other Australian surfers. All the big names of Australian surfing appear in the book including Bob McTavish and Wayne Lynch. The struggle they faced with the Vietnam enrollment and the backlash against surfers during that period.
For those that are interested in the country folk movement that surfers were immersed in, this book goes into depth of that lifestyle.
He also talks of his son Beau and Joel Tudor and the various directions he went after surfing including his farm in Byron Bay and his attempts at Aviation and filmmaking.

Not the best review but defintely worth a read. I couldn't put it down, they led an amazing life.


:cool:

West of Jesus is well worth a read.

rodento

Read all of George Martins A Song of Ice and Fire books on a three week boat trip in the maldives

xxyyzz

Surf is where you find it by Gerry Lopez. Just various stories from the great man's life back in the 70's. Some of it is very funny and some of the **** he paddled out in is downright terrifying. Well worth a read.

promethius

nice thread.
"In Search of Captain Zero"
This is right out there, a surfing dream that goes wrong with the author telling the story of going to find his friend that disappeared into south america. Ages since i read it but it's an engrossing read from what i remember.

"Riding the magic carpet"
True story of a welsh surfer who decides he wants to surf j bay in South Africa. He doesn't just book a flight and give it a lash he puts in some serious preparation by building up his surf skills and experience. Great read, well written and you're rooting for the guy to do it.

Low Pockets

promethius wrote: »

nice thread.
"In Search of Captain Zero"
This is right out there, a surfing dream that goes wrong with the author telling the story of going to find his friend that disappeared into south america. Ages since i read it but it's an engrossing read from what i remember.

His first book, cosmic banditios is one of the few I still laugh out loud when I read it.

The Eddie book is well worth the read.

The winter of frankie machine is worth picking up.

I thought you could really tell Nat Young was after suffering a brain injury reading that, some great stories but just WAY too all over the place for me.

The Lopez book is a fantastic one to read going to sleep (lots of short stories), beautiful writer and comes across like a really nice humble bloke.

The book on Dora, (I cant remember the name) is another great one, once you get over the first 1/4 or so of it, again, some epic stories of **** he got away with.

Let my people go surfing is a pretty inspirational read too.

I cant think of more, I know iv more round the house, just cant think.

Decos

The Miki Dora book, 'All for a few perfect waves' is well worth a read. As L.P. said, he got up to some crazy ****!

'Surf Rage' by Nat Young is a good read too, some great stories about the uglier side of surfing. Sounds pretty nasty what happened to Nat too.

I definitely have to read the lopez book, it always gets a mention. Also, is that book 'stealing the wave' any good?

OuterBombie

Good Thread,

Good Surf books few and far between but these are some of my favorites:

MP, The Life of Michael Peterson (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Life-Michael-Peterson-Sean-Doherty/dp/0732276098):

A great read, some very funny stories from Oz back in the day when MP ruled Kirra, before he went nuts and gave up surfing.

Mr. Sunset, The Jeff Hakman Story (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Mr-Sunset-Jeff-Hakman-Story/dp/1575440652/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1326707492&sr=1-1)

Another great read and some classic shots. How this lad pulled some of the crazy sh*te over the years and is still going, legend.

The Wave (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Wave-Pursuit-Oceans-Greatest-Furies/dp/0224082795/ref=sr_1_4?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1326707620&sr=1-4)

Read this recently on a flight to and from the States. Good laymans book on giant waves and the fruitcakes that ride them. The author (cute as she is) spend a couple of years with Laird and the Jaws crew which proves some interesting reading in the book.

OB.

keryl

Great books mentioned will be sure to check them out.

OldGuysRule

Gotta read Da Bull about Greg Noll, the early days of the Hawaiian invasion and big surf.

Also, as a story, Breath by Tim Winton is very good, an as above, All for a Few Good Waves is also good.

If you are interested in beautiful boards, then Drew Kampion's The Art of the Surfboard is really good, bit of a coffee table book, but good none the less (my own is signed by Greg Noll, to me!)

roberb

Just finished this book – great read – couldn't put it down.

The guy caught his first barrel age 10 and was skiing powder at age 6. His story is about growing up with his dad surfing and skiing and how he resented him and loved him for it. And aged 11 he is in a plane crash with his Dad who dies, but he survives by climbing down a huge mountain covered in Ice (not giving away the story btw)


Crazy For the Storm by Norman Ollestad

cue

Breath is a good read.

FlashD

'In Search of Captain Zero', 'Micky Dora story' as mentioned are favourites.

I recently read 'Kook', a really nice read about an older guy who discovers surfing and his 6 month camping trip to Mexico with his partner to try and perfect his skills.
It reminded me of all the feelings I first had when I started plus it inspired me to add some mexican pointbreaks to my list of places I should surf before I kick it.

I'd also recommend 'Stealing The Wave' about Ken Bradshaw and Mark Foo, gripping stuff about 2 professional surfers from opposite ends of the spectrum, their rivalary and how it all ends in tradegy.