VW golf mk4 problems

Jaycornyn

Hey all,

Car details: 2002 GT TDI 115Bhp golf. First registered in Northern Ireland (not sure if that makes a diff)

Bought the car a few months back and since then I noticed the car has been going into limp mode at around 3000RPM ( thought it was at 80MPH but it seems now that it's at 3000RPM) I have looked all over forums and seen lots of possible causes, so, I have ordered a VAG-COM cable and will be checking the ECU for error codes at the weekend (hopefully). So error codes to come. Is there anything I can check/test before hand. I'm not very mech-savvy but I can follow a good guide or video.

Problem 2. One of the days last week I put some things in the boot, closed it and since then it refuses to open . The key doesn't fit in the full way, (believe the lock is set the wrong why for key opening) but the central locking on the key does take the lock off, I can tell because when the car id fully locked the boot handle is free moving and when I have the car fully unlocked there is some catching on the boot handle but still the boot doesn't open. I've seen that the lock assemble does go in golfs due to the back window washer leaking. I've looked around inside the boot and tried to take off the boot cover but it seems quite a bit of interior plastics will have to come off before I can get the boot cover off.

So my question is should I go ahead and remove the plastics and I'll get the boot lid off after? Is there an easier way to get to the boot latch?
Also what tools will I need, I've seen a kind of star shaped screw head holding on some of the plastics, are they torx heads?


Problem 3. OK, so both front doors don't register on the dash as open when they are, also the light doesn't come on when the doors are open and also the light 'buzzer' doesn't sound if i open the door with the lights on. The light comes on when the back doors are opened. I checked in around the door hinges for, emm, like what makes the light come on in the fridge when you open the door (sorry could think of how else to describe it) but it seems things aren't as simple as they used to be. The driver's door handle doesn't sit flush with the lock, it slightly sticks out. Could this be the problem?
Any info on this would be great.

I know some of ye are thinking just bring it to the garage, but being in college and tax up the end of the month I don't think I can afford it. And if it's a relatively easy fix I'm quite glad to do it my self.


Thanks very much for reading this.

Look forward to reading some reply's.

moodrater

As you say lots of things cause limp mode vacuum hoses loose, perished or damaged -replace with silicone, split/loose intake pipes, damaged intercooler, blocked cat, stuck solenoid, bad map sensor, stuck variable vane turbine.

My money would be on vnt and vacuum hoses, you'll narrow it down with vag com anyway and be able to fix all those issues yourself.

Take the lining off you'll be able to operate the mechanism manually, worth inspecting the wiper motor too before its too late. you can divert the water hose to a separate jet if you're keen. Screws are torx from memory, MAF for some reason is RIBE instead of torx.

Pull back the rubber gators between the doors and the body check for cracked or broken wires regarding the courtesy light: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1542461

You could always get a used lock if you're looking for parts sign up to http://www.vagcat.com/ and get the proper part number as the same lock could be in passat, skoda audi a4 etc. etc. search the german ebay by part number too if you can't find waht you want in ireland or the uk.

swhyte027

Jaycornyn wrote: »

Hey all,

Car details: 2002 GT TDI 115Bhp golf. First registered in Northern Ireland (not sure if that makes a diff)

Bought the car a few months back and since then I noticed the car has been going into limp mode at around 3000RPM ( thought it was at 80MPH but it seems now that it's at 3000RPM) I have looked all over forums and seen lots of possible causes, so, I have ordered a VAG-COM cable and will be checking the ECU for error codes at the weekend (hopefully). So error codes to come. Is there anything I can check/test before hand. I'm not very mech-savvy but I can follow a good guide or video.

Problem 2. One of the days last week I put some things in the boot, closed it and since then it refuses to open . The key doesn't fit in the full way, (believe the lock is set the wrong why for key opening) but the central locking on the key does take the lock off, I can tell because when the car id fully locked the boot handle is free moving and when I have the car fully unlocked there is some catching on the boot handle but still the boot doesn't open. I've seen that the lock assemble does go in golfs due to the back window washer leaking. I've looked around inside the boot and tried to take off the boot cover but it seems quite a bit of interior plastics will have to come off before I can get the boot cover off.

So my question is should I go ahead and remove the plastics and I'll get the boot lid off after? Is there an easier way to get to the boot latch?
Also what tools will I need, I've seen a kind of star shaped screw head holding on some of the plastics, are they torx heads?


Problem 3. OK, so both front doors don't register on the dash as open when they are, also the light doesn't come on when the doors are open and also the light 'buzzer' doesn't sound if i open the door with the lights on. The light comes on when the back doors are opened. I checked in around the door hinges for, emm, like what makes the light come on in the fridge when you open the door (sorry could think of how else to describe it) but it seems things aren't as simple as they used to be. The driver's door handle doesn't sit flush with the lock, it slightly sticks out. Could this be the problem?
Any info on this would be great.

I know some of ye are thinking just bring it to the garage, but being in college and tax up the end of the month I don't think I can afford it. And if it's a relatively easy fix I'm quite glad to do it my self.


Thanks very much for reading this.

Look forward to reading some reply's.

The joys of motoring.i wouldn't go messing about with vag com if u don't no what ur at
Just friendly advice

Jaycornyn

I thought I could plug it in and do an auto-scan for fault codes? Doesn't seem to hard. I'm not planing on doing anything more then that.

Also, moodrater, do you know if i need to take of much plastics from around the boot cover before it will come loose? I removed the screws from the boot cover handles, the cover pops out from middle-top but seem to be held in around the edges?

Cheers for the replies.

moodrater

Jaycornyn wrote: »

I thought I could plug it in and do an auto-scan for fault codes? Doesn't seem to hard. I'm not planing on doing anything more then that.

Also, moodrater, do you know if i need to take of much plastics from around the boot cover before it will come loose? I removed the screws from the boot cover handles, the cover pops out from middle-top but seem to be held in around the edges?

Cheers for the replies.

Don't worry about vagcom you have to enter the pin to make any adaptations can't see you accidentally entering a 5 digit code :P

Once all the screws are out of the tailgate liner you should be able to carefully lever it in at the top and reach the rod to pull and unlock the boot then you can have a proper gander, watch out for a falling spring when you lift the bootlid, bad thing about vw they keep putting the same known faulty products into their cars for years rather than fixing the design. Replacement lock will probably be equally rubbish.

Jaycornyn

Cheers,

Hand the liner off around the top, never thought of trying to reach it.

Jaycornyn

Only got the cable yesterday and done the scan to day..

Showed up a few things which is good i supose..

Results:

Address 01: Engine

2 Faults found:
17965 - Charge Pressure Control: Positive Deviation
p1557 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17552 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70): Open or Short to Ground
P1144 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
Readiness: N/A

=============================================

Address 46: Central Conv.

2 Faults Found:
00928 - Locking Module for Central Locking: Front Driver Side (F220)
27_10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
00929 - Locking Module for Central Locking: Front Passenger Side (F221)
27_o0 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent

=============================================

Address 56: Radio

1 Fault Found:
00852 - Loudspeaker(s): Front
36_10 - Open Circuit - Intermittent

=============================================


So I'm guessing I'll need and Air Flow Sensor, might this be causing the Charge Pressure Control fault?

Also, it's showing the door locking problem I have, searching the code it seems it a wirering problem.

Any advise from people who have had or have dealt with these problem would be great.

Thanks


*Edit* Got the boot lid not opening problem fixed. I got into the boot, undone the screws in the handle and pulled back the boot lid cover as far s i could. I then slid my hand down to the lock and moved the mechcanisim while getting someone else to try the handle on the outside. It poped open and I give it a good spray of WD40. Not 100% sure what caused the problem, must have been a bit stiff or something. It working grand now for the last week or so.

Cheers.

moodrater

Pull back the rubber gators between the doors and chassis you'll almost certainly find cracked/broken wires thats the third and fourth faults.

I wouldn't replace the maf just clear the fault and see if it comes up again, intermittant could just be mechanic or previous owner running with it disconnected to check. Is there an aftermarket induction kit or stupid filter in it, the oil in the aftermarket stuff is blamed for lots of maf problems .

17965 is probably the vanes in the turbo sticking, could also be N75 valve, you can swap the n75 and n18 valves on the mkIV I think to check. People go to all sorts of lengths to avoid dealing with the stuck vane problem changing maf, map, n75, vaccuum tubing but unfortunately its usually the vanes sticking.

Jaycornyn

Thanks again moodrater.

And vanes sticking means a reconditioned turbo, right?

I will have a look at the doors in the morning a report back.

The filter and induction kit are standard as far as I know. I didn't change them anyway and I bought the car of a middle aged woman so don't think she would have changed them. I will check this tomorrow aswell just to be sure to be sure.

Thanks.

Slidey

I had one and it used to only stick when the engine was cold.

There was a step hill a few hundred yards from the house and half way up no matter how gentle you tried to go at it the car would go into limp mode.

I took the actuator off and spent a while moving it over and back and it freed it out for a good while after that

moodrater

Check the movement of the vanes you may be able to free up the vanes easily enough as mentioned, if they're really gummed up you can get a cleaner kit to dissolve the gunk I was sceptical but my brother freed his up with the cleaner and a scream up to dublin on the motorway pulsing the throttle every now and then.

Middle aged lady makes sticking vnt much more lightly as the car probably never had a good run in its life egr, intake, turbo and exhaust probably all sooted up too.

Hang onto the turbo you have and get it unstuck its probably had an easier life than anything you'd get to replace it.

Jaycornyn

Cheers lads.

Will make a burst at everything in the morning and clear the fault codes and see what happens on the spin down to Galway on the N17.

The lady also lived in sligo town which makes it worse I spose.

Is there anything I should do to 'de-soot' the EGR, intake and exhaust?

Thanks very much. Great help.


Just out of interest, what would i be charge in a garage for this sort of thing to be fixed? If ye know

Chimaera

Positive deviation means the car is overboosting - almost certainly stuck vanes. The fix here is to take the turbo off the car and clean the soot out of the vanes. It's a good few hours work.

The problem with the locks is probably cracked solder joints in the electronic part of the lock module. It's a relatively simple fix - pull out the lock, open up the electronic module and resolder the joints. In rarer cases, the microswitch inside the lock can fail. You can check that easily enough with a continuity tester. Probably 2 hours work to do all 4 doors.

Regarding how much a garage will charge, take the time estimates above and multiply them by garage labour rates.

Jaycornyn

I cleared the faults last weekend, and after scanning again there and none of the engine faults have come back. I was driving at the speed/revs that the car had entered limp mode before but not now. A bit of excessive revving must have cleared the vanes?

Check the wires in the door hinge area and they are grand. Just waiting on a soldering iron and I'll tackle that door locking module.

2012 Rio

swhyte027 wrote: »

The joys of motoring.i wouldn't go messing about with vag com if u don't no what ur at
Just friendly advice

The joys of VW motoring more like. The cack that VAG are producing in the last 10 or so years is scandalous. The whole German reliability marketing thing is a bad joke at this stage.

Anyway, I've heard of most of these problems before. I'd never get a VAG car even if I got it for free. Nothing but trouble.

Slidey

Well that's a nice balanced post.

tossy

Slidey wrote: »

Well that's a nice balanced post.

Don't feed the troll

nogoodnamesleft

Chimaera wrote: »

Positive deviation means the car is overboosting - almost certainly stuck vanes. The fix here is to take the turbo off the car and clean the soot out of the vanes. It's a good few hours work.

The problem with the locks is probably cracked solder joints in the electronic part of the lock module. It's a relatively simple fix - pull out the lock, open up the electronic module and resolder the joints. In rarer cases, the microswitch inside the lock can fail. You can check that easily enough with a continuity tester. Probably 2 hours work to do all 4 doors.

Regarding how much a garage will charge, take the time estimates above and multiply them by garage labour rates.

There is no way stripping down the door, disassembling the lock module and replacing the microswitch on all four doors could be done in 2hours.

From my experience of replacing the microswitch on the door lock module on a Passat it took a little over 2.5 hours to do the drivers door alone.