front loader / 2wd wheel upgrade?

josephsoap

Hi my first post so hopefully ye will go easy on me and hopefully I can get some advice here


Ive recently bought an old MF 165 with a front loader on it



It is the same loader as in this picture

I have lifted the 1 tonne bags of sand with it of a car trailer and that so happy days.

The thing is with such a heavy load on the front it the pressure on the front tyres will go down.

So I was just thinking could I buy front wheels off say a MF 290 and fit them to the 165 ? would it help spread the weight a bit more evenly as I do plan to stack silage bales with it(Krone bales and unchopped) .

Would this be a good idea to upgrade the wheels on it and what would be the biggest/wides tyre I could fit?

thanks for your views.

Joseph

49801

you need a counter weight on the back
500kg should be plenty for what you want.

josephsoap

49801 wrote: »

you need a counter weight on the back
500kg should be plenty for what you want.

ah yes I do have a concrete counterwight for it, it came with the tractor luckly enough

It's just the front wheels are fairly narrow on it like..

all my loading and stacking will be done on a concrete yard too.

vanderbadger

ya a chap over the road from me has 290 with loader and he has wider than normal front wheels, dont know what he got them off now but they look a better job for a loader

yellow50HX

its not just the tyres, i have seen a few people putting on the front axel from a massey digger on too to take the weight. hope the loader can take it too, remember those loaders were built in the 70's and never built to take a tonne

josephsoap

vanderbadger wrote: »

ya a chap over the road from me has 290 with loader and he has wider than normal front wheels, dont know what he got them off now but they look a better job for a loader

Thanks vander

think I will have to upgrade them so

Them wheels sound the business.....now where to get a set of them is going to be the problem

josephsoap

yellow50HX wrote: »

its not just the tyres, i have seen a few people putting on the front axel from a massey digger on too to take the weight. hope the loader can take it too, remember those loaders were built in the 70's and never built to take a tonne

An axel upgrade would be the bees knees but, I don't want to spend a load of money on this tractor as it will only be stacking around 200 to 250 bales of silage a year, stacking hay etc.

what does an unchopped bale weight ? that would be heavest/ hardest work I would be doing with it ...so I don't think it would make economic sense to upgrade the axel.

I have lifted a tonne with it a few times but they were just once offs and had not far to move it.

Thank you very much for your views

JohnBoy

if you're only working on concrete then imho the best job is gonna be a bigger counterweight.

the bulging wheels is a symptom of the load on the front axle.

bigger tyres will cope better with that load, but the front axle will still be taking that load. they'd be of great benefit if loading off hard standing, but you say you'll never be doing that.

a heavier front axle from a digger would definitely work, but isnt ten minutes work, and how much will it cost to recondition a used one?


A heavier counterweight will be relatively cheap and simple and will take that load off the axle in the first place.

josephsoap

JohnBoy wrote: »

if you're only working on concrete then imho the best job is gonna be a bigger counterweight.

the bulging wheels is a symptom of the load on the front axle.

bigger tyres will cope better with that load, but the front axle will still be taking that load. they'd be of great benefit if loading off hard standing, but you say you'll never be doing that.

a heavier front axle from a digger would definitely work, but isnt ten minutes work, and how much will it cost to recondition a used one?


A heavier counterweight will be relatively cheap and simple and will take that load off the axle in the first place.

Thanks johnboy for the very informative post.

Ah I see now that makes sence now when you think about it.

Maybe I should start using a bale of silage as a counterweight from now on

JohnBoy

They're bulky, but cheap.

Attie

josephsoap wrote: »

Thanks vander

think I will have to upgrade them so

Them wheels sound the business.....now where to get a set of them is going to be the problem

Personally I'd check out the barrings and pins in front axle.
You can get wheels here http://www.sylvanparts.com/

josephsoap

Attie wrote: »

Personally I'd check out the barrings and pins in front axle.
You can get wheels here http://www.kells-on-line.com/conat.htm

Thanks attie
Just checked the tyres size there and they are 7.5 16

so that means they are 7.5 inches wide I think ....so I'd imagine a 10 wide wheel just do the job lovely?

lakill Farm

put a loader on the 7740

(in response to another tread)

josephsoap

lakill Farm wrote: »

put a loader on the 7740

49801

josephsoap wrote: »

ah yes I do have a concrete counterwight for it, it came with the tractor luckly enough

It's just the front wheels are fairly narrow on it like..

all my loading and stacking will be done on a concrete yard too.

how many kg's is your counter weight?
the silage bale probably has a good bit more weight than it so not a bad start.

mechanic alway told me 32/35 psi for front wheels of loader tractor.

bbam

49801 wrote: »

mechanic alway told me 32/35 psi for front wheels of loader tractor.

wow, were running on 50psi for as long as I remember. All yard work. Or stoned ground at least.

pakalasa

On the counter-weight, the further back from the back axle you go the better. If you want to take weight off the front wheels, then the pivot point is the back axle, if you know what I mean. So say 500Kgs at 3ft from the back axle, will have the same effect as 250Kgs at 6ft.
We have a loader on a small 2 wd tractor and to be honest it is very severe on the bearings, stub axles etc. It is worth keeping everything well greased and any wear on the bearings tightened up. Get a spare bearing kit, because Murphy's Law it will go someday when you're right busy.

josephsoap

pakalasa wrote: »

On the counter-weight, the further back from the back axle you go the better. If you want to take weight off the front wheels, then the pivot point is the back axle, if you know what I mean. So say 500Kgs at 3ft from the back axle, will have the same effect as 250Kgs at 6ft.
We have a loader on a small 2 wd tractor and to be honest it is very severe on the bearings, stub axles etc. It is worth keeping everything well greased and any wear on the bearings tightened up. Get a spare bearing kit, because Murphy's Law it will go someday when you're right busy.

Thanks pakalasa

Are the front wheel bearings easy to change?
are they expensive too?
And how would one know when they are gone ?

Sorry never had a tractor with a loader before

redzerologhlen

josephsoap wrote: »

pakalasa wrote: »

On the counter-weight, the further back from the back axle you go the better. If you want to take weight off the front wheels, then the pivot point is the back axle, if you know what I mean. So say 500Kgs at 3ft from the back axle, will have the same effect as 250Kgs at 6ft.
We have a loader on a small 2 wd tractor and to be honest it is very severe on the bearings, stub axles etc. It is worth keeping everything well greased and any wear on the bearings tightened up. Get a spare bearing kit, because Murphy's Law it will go someday when you're right busy.

Thanks pakalasa

Are the front wheel bearings easy to change?
are they expensive too?
And how would one know when they are gone ?

Sorry never had a tractor with a loader before

You'll know when the wheel falls off there will be a wobble in the wheel when your driving and if you go out and give the wheels a shake you will notice the play in it. They are not that expensive and are fairly easy to change but a nuisance nonetheless.

pakalasa

A nuisance alright. The hardest part is getting out all the old bearing from the inside of the hub. If you leave any piece of metal in there, it will break up the new bearing. There's an inner and outer taper roller bearing and an inner dirt seal. Each bearing in turn, has an inner and outer race. It's better to take them all off and put in the new ones. Use a bit of timber or hard plastic too to hit them on and off.

josephsoap

redzerologhlen wrote: »

You'll know when the wheel falls off

LOL Thanks guys great site here