Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie

Possible First WC Build

Options
  • 07-03-2012 3:35am
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 1,185 ✭✭✭


    Been building comps for best part of 5 years now but never got the chance to ever build a water cooling system.
    Been thinking about it as a possible upgrade after I get my SSD but I have no idea how much it's going to cost or where even to buy aswell also as what makes one block better then another etc.
    So I just need your guys help on pricing it out aswell as the components I may want to go for.
    The case I have is a CM 692 and I'll be cooling a Phenom 960T but might upgrade to Ivybridge near then end of the year so I'll need a waterblock compatible with both AM3+ and 1155 (if it's possible) also I'm going with a blue colour scheme so I'll need blue coolant aswell as a x2 120 rad and fans to go with it (no need for led fans as I'll be using cathodes)
    I'm only going to be cooling to CPU for now and upgrade to cool the GPU eventually so gpu block isn't need altho I need the flexiblity to upgrade.

    So to summarise what I need:
    CPU Block Compatible with both AM3 and 1155 (if possible, if not just AM3)
    Clear Tubing,
    Reservoir,
    Pump,
    Blue Coolant,
    2 120 Radiator,
    x2 120mm Fans & everything else I'm gonna need.

    I've seen some impressive WC systems on here so I know alot of you guys know your stuff so I'm completely trusting of any info you have to give.
    Thanks in advanced =]


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 7,180 ✭✭✭Serephucus


    One point that sticks out at me: You're much better going with blue tubing and distilled water, rather than clear tubing and blue crap. The stuff they put in pre-mixes will usually gunk up your blocks after a few months, depending on what brand it is, etc.

    If you're wanting to cool your GPU as well, you're going to need a good 360 rad. As far as I can tell, you case can house two 240 rads, which actually works out really well. You can just buy the one 240 for now, and get a second later one when you want to involve your GPU. I actually did a parts list for someone else a few days ago...

    *sifts through PMs*

    Pump

    Pump top

    CPU block

    AMD Mounting kit (CPU block)

    Radiator

    ( Fittings (compression) ) OR ( Barbs and clamps )

    T-line (needs three fittings. If you're getting a reservoir ignore this)

    Reservoir (If you're getting a T-line, ignore this)

    Or, if you like, a reservoir that will actually house the MCP655 (don't get the top if you get this)

    Tubing (whatever colour you like)

    Coolant:
    Buy distilled water from a chemist, or certain Tesco shops will do it. DO NOT used pre-mixed crap.

    Oh, and you'll want to chuck one of these in too. It prevents stuff growing in your loop

    II haven't done prices or quantities, so we can work on that later, but this should get you started. 99% of things don't come with their own fittings, so you'll need to add them up. If you're doing compression fittings, it's just the one per fitting. If it's barbs/clamps, you'll need one barb and one clamp per fitting. So your CPU block for example would take two compressions, or two barbs and two clamps. Same with the rad, pump, GPU block, and res. If you're using a T-line, it's 2+1.


    If that's a bit messy, I apologise, it was done fairly quickly. Hopefully that gives you a start though.


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,182 ✭✭✭Genghiz Cohen


    [total watercooling noob]
    Anything to be said for UV lights in a loop?
    For to kill things.
    [/total watercooling noob]


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,180 ✭✭✭Serephucus


    I've never used UVs myself, so I can't say, but from how I understand it, there are a few common frequencies of UV light, and not all are harmful to bacteria. I'm also pretty sure the UV light used in cold cathodes is the non-harmful type (which would make sense, given that people would be looking at them) so it would probably do jack **** in terms of stopping loop growth. Your best bet is silver (be it using silver plated fittings or a kill coil) or some kind of biocide like PT Nuke.


Advertisement