Aritech cs 250m fault

altor

Had to be a fault with something, pity he did not just change the internal first to see if that stopped the humming.

KoolKid

With that feedback it can be either.
A resistor or switching outputs would have probably sorted it as well.

altor

KoolKid wrote: »

With that feedback it can be either.
A resistor or switching outputs would have probably sorted it as well.

We will never know

vwt

Just to clear things up Altor...
When I replaced the internal bell,the strange humming sound had disappeared but I still had a system fault and bus fault.I reinstalled the rf expander in the peripherals menu and that seemed to sort it.I wired up the outside bell with the bho terminals supplied with a constant 12v unswitched.I wired a 4k7 resistor across these terminals in the panel.I think the original problem was definitely caused by one of the sounders,and for some reason the rf expander was giving the sys/bus fault

KoolKid

Happy days & hopefully many peaceful nights. What external bell did you get?

vwt

Yeh hope so,I've gained a few grey hairs but learned a lot in the process...
I think it's an Aritech as 195,not the prettiest but I got it for nothing,and it has the constant red and green leds as a deterrent!

KoolKid

Well long may it last. Any hassles you know where we are...;)

altor

vwt wrote: »

Just to clear things up Altor...
When I replaced the internal bell,the strange humming sound had disappeared but I still had a system fault and bus fault.I reinstalled the rf expander in the peripherals menu and that seemed to sort it.I wired up the outside bell with the bho terminals supplied with a constant 12v unswitched.I wired a 4k7 resistor across these terminals in the panel.I think the original problem was definitely caused by one of the sounders,and for some reason the rf expander was giving the sys/bus fault

Thanks vwt,

Would of expected it to be the internal bell since that's where the humming was coming from. Ken was very good to you, he is one of the good ones

vwt

Yeh Ken is a sound bloke indeed....
This was my last stab at it before I threw in the towel....,
You were nearly getting a phone call :rolleyes:

altor

vwt wrote: »

Yeh Ken is a sound bloke indeed....
This was my last stab at it before I threw in the towel....,
You were nearly getting a phone call :rolleyes:

Always happy to help if I can, just like Ken is

vwt

altor wrote: »

vwt wrote: »

Yeh Ken is a sound bloke indeed....
This was my last stab at it before I threw in the towel....,
You were nearly getting a phone call :rolleyes:

Always happy to help if I can, just like Ken is

Success didn't last long!!!
Last three nights in a row,alarm goes off for no reason!!!!.It happens when system is in part arm,and key pad says bus fault full!
When I check all zones and system tamps there is no fault!
Ever come across this?
Head wrecked!

altor

vwt wrote: »

Success didn't last long!!!
Last three nights in a row,alarm goes off for no reason!!!!.It happens when system is in part arm,and key pad says bus fault full!
When I check all zones and system tamps there is no fault!
Ever come across this?
Head wrecked!

The bus fault is related to devices added to the system. Down power and power the system back up again. Did you say you have the engineer code off the system?

vwt

altor wrote: »

vwt wrote: »

Success didn't last long!!!
Last three nights in a row,alarm goes off for no reason!!!!.It happens when system is in part arm,and key pad says bus fault full!
When I check all zones and system tamps there is no fault!
Ever come across this?
Head wrecked!

The bus fault is related to devices added to the system. Down power and power the system back up again. Did you say you have the engineer code off the system?

Engineer code is the standard 4 digit code.The only stuff added to the system is key fob and rf expander.Its strange because the systems lets you arm it no probs and when it alarms you can re-arm it straight away with no problems

altor

vwt wrote: »

Engineer code is the standard 4 digit code.The only stuff added to the system is key fob and rf expander.Its strange because the systems lets you arm it no probs and when it alarms you can re-arm it straight away with no problems

Since it is not picking up on the fault all the time it may be a loose connection in the RF expander or the control panel. Have you added a new keypad or a different RF expander to the system?

vwt

altor wrote: »

vwt wrote: »

Engineer code is the standard 4 digit code.The only stuff added to the system is key fob and rf expander.Its strange because the systems lets you arm it no probs and when it alarms you can re-arm it straight away with no problems

Since it is not picking up on the fault all the time it may be a loose connection in the RF expander or the control panel. Have you added a new keypad or a different RF expander to the system?

I think connections are good..
I have a new expander and keypad at home,which is more likely?
Seems to be one thing after another!

altor

vwt wrote: »

I think connections are good..
I have a new expander and keypad at home,which is more likely?
Seems to be one thing after another!

The reason I asked was if you add a new device without taking the other device out of the system then it can give a bus fault. If not then powering down the system and powering it back up should clear the fault. Otherwise you will need to go into installation, peripherals menu and re-enroll the device. More than likely an issue with the receiver.

fred funk }{

Does it activate at exactly the same time every night?

D rog

Hello,

We have a 5 year old CS250 Panel in one room which was intermittantly rattling for about the last 3 weeks. It's now rattling quite a lot!
I was just wondering if anyone has any knowledge of this, is it a known fault or any ideas even where to start?
There are no errors or messages or were no power outages or unusual circumstances when it started.

KoolKid

I'm not sure I understand what you mean. What's rattling ?

D rog

It sounds like something inside the keypad.
Click, click, then a faster maybe 5 clicks, then nothing for 5 mins.
Then starts for 2 mins...you get the idea

altor

D rog wrote: »

It sounds like something inside the keypad.
Click, click, then a faster maybe 5 clicks, then nothing for 5 mins.
Then starts for 2 mins...you get the idea

Sounds the the speaker in the keypad is gone faulty.

D rog

Anything we can easily do to fix?
So the installer changed engineering code from the standard and now cannot recall it, is there a way of resetting the engineer code to open it up and resolder the speaker?

altor

D rog wrote: »

Anything we can easily do to fix?
So the installer changed engineering code from the standard and now cannot recall it, is there a way of resetting the engineer code to open it up and resolder the speaker?

Not really, you could break off the speaker if it is not needed. Otherwise you would need to replace the keypad. Only an engineer will be able to reset the CS250, there is no quick default if not engineer locked like on other panels.

KoolKid

You could try turning down the volume on the keypad.
Press the 1 & # together for 2 seconds
The will get the keypad to enter audio level setting mode.
The keypad will beep.
Press arrow up or down to adjust the volume.
When done press OK.
You can open the keypad without the engineer code & try disconnect the speaker. But be careful , if you need to add a new keypad you will need engineer access.

Thunderbird2

There is a faint clicking noise when the keypad is lit up but it happens when the back up battery is faulty or disconnected. Its lights dim and you can hear a click then the screen lights up and is normal again for a few seconds . It's noticed more when in engineer mode . I'm not saying this is 100% but it happens on the panel I have here + the secure wave when no back up battery is present or if it's gone faulty

KoolKid

The CS250 should display a low battery or battery fault on the keypad though.
I know the situation you refer to but I agree that only seems to happen when in engineer mode.

Thunderbird2

Maybe the systems not being used ? Anyway it's no harm to check the battery since it could be 5 years old

KoolKid

Always worth a check ofcourse. It reminds me one of the things I hate about the CS250 is its so finicky re the battery. There is also a bug on a lot of them where the battery charge voltage drops after a few years. I've had a few that wouldn't go about 11 volts.

altor

A firmware upgrade will sort that..

Thunderbird2

Theyre a great panel . Once they get going there pretty reliable . I did have a problem where the battery fault wouldn't clear for a few hours but once that was sorted it was great