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Tikka T3 mounts?

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  • 15-03-2012 10:52pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 1,188 ✭✭✭


    I'm looking for advice on whats the best set-up for mounting a scope on a T3.

    I know there is sako optilocks made for them but warne also do mounts for them at a fraction of the cost..

    Are the warne mounts good or are the sakos worth the extra money?

    Lastly I don't want to go down the route of putting a rail on it as its a stalking rifle so no need for extra weight! :cool:


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 258 ✭✭silverfox1


    I use warne mounts on both my tikkas. They are way better than the optilock in my opinion. Never had any bother with them coming loose or loss of zero. You won't regret buying them.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,188 ✭✭✭patsat


    Thanks for the info? Why do you think they are netter than the sako ones??

    Anyone have any experience with the talley lightweight rings??


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,279 ✭✭✭4200fps


    I bought a Tikka t3 and i'd to buy Tikka mounts and Picatinny rail as the rail wasn't standard with the T3 Lite.
    For both rail and mounts it cost 200euro new. Well as far as i'm aware you cant get away without the rail. It's a really good rail and weighs very little. You wont notice the weight of the mounts or rail. Warne are very good as I had them on my last rifle


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,279 ✭✭✭4200fps


    silverfox1 wrote: »
    I use warne mounts on both my tikkas. They are way better than the optilock in my opinion. Never had any bother with them coming loose or loss of zero. You won't regret buying them.
    Did you find the Tikka mounts ok?


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,102 ✭✭✭Hibrion


    G for the warne mounts. There is a screw in the base of the sako optilocks that has been know to come loose and will throw the zero off with recoil. You can't tell if the screw is loose unless you remove the rings too.
    Definitely go with warne. You will have no problems with them. I've had super expensive mounts before, and they were no better than warne.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 258 ✭✭silverfox1


    I found the optilock were grand if you were putting them on and leaving them on. The screws in the rings are very soft and tend to ring off if you try to change scope. A Friend had problems with the optilock bases coming loose too and changed to warne.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 965 ✭✭✭lb1981


    Warne tend to pull your scope slightly off because of the way they come together,i have had 3 different brand of rings and mounts on my T3 but i can safely say that the optilocks i have now are the best, i didnt have the money before but saved and got them ,180 euro for the rings and mounts in stainless= pricey little ****ers :eek: and the inner ring saves the scope from getting marked, just put a drop of thread lock on the screws and they will NEVER come loose.
    If you can afford them get them


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 258 ✭✭silverfox1


    lb1981 wrote: »
    Warne tend to pull your scope slightly off because of the way they come together,i have had 3 different brand of rings and mounts on my T3 but i can safely say that the optilocks i have now are the best, i didnt have the money before but saved and got them ,180 euro for the rings and mounts in stainless= pricey little ****ers :eek: and the inner ring saves the scope from getting marked, just put a drop of thread lock on the screws and they will NEVER come loose.
    If you can afford them get them

    That's grand like i said if you want to mount a scope and never touch it again. If you want to change scope in the future i would stay well away from thread lock because like i said they aren't the worlds strongest screws.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 965 ✭✭✭lb1981


    silverfox1 wrote: »
    That's grand like i said if you want to mount a scope and never touch it again. If you want to change scope in the future i would stay well away from thread lock because like i said they aren't the worlds strongest screws.
    The stainless ones are grand but i know what your talking about with the normal steel ones ,you have to be carefull when locking them up ,bit by bit and slow or else you have a problem when opening them up.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 258 ✭✭silverfox1


    lb1981 wrote: »
    silverfox1 wrote: »
    That's grand like i said if you want to mount a scope and never touch it again. If you want to change scope in the future i would stay well away from thread lock because like i said they aren't the worlds strongest screws.
    The stainless ones are grand but i know what your talking about with the normal steel ones ,you have to be carefull when locking them up ,bit by bit and slow or else you have a problem when opening them up.

    Yep it was the normal steel ones i had. I can't comment on the stainless. I still think thread lock is a bad idea though.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,279 ✭✭✭4200fps


    silverfox1 wrote: »
    Yep it was the normal steel ones i had. I can't comment on the stainless. I still think thread lock is a bad idea though.

    Purple low strength Loctite would be sound. It will open easy enough but still will hold screws in place no bother at all and causes no damage


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 965 ✭✭✭lb1981


    silverfox1 wrote: »
    Yep it was the normal steel ones i had. I can't comment on the stainless. I still think thread lock is a bad idea though.
    You dont put it on the small 3.5 screws just the larger screw under the mount and the clamping one they are the only ones that come loose


  • Registered Users Posts: 877 ✭✭✭zeissman


    If your T3 has the light barrel you could use the tikka optilock ringmounts.
    They are lighter than the tikka bases and rings and still have the plastic inserts to protect your scope.
    I have them on my sako with a 50mm scope and they are very neat.
    They can be hard to get though.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,279 ✭✭✭4200fps


    zeissman wrote: »
    If your T3 has the light barrel you could use the tikka optilock ringmounts.
    They are lighter than the tikka bases and rings and still have the plastic inserts to protect your scope.
    I have them on my sako with a 50mm scope and they are very neat.
    They can be hard to get though.
    sent you a pm lad


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,102 ✭✭✭Hibrion


    patsat wrote: »
    Anyone have any experience with the talley lightweight rings??

    Had them on a Remington 700, to be honest, they are no better than warne mounts, but much more expensive.
    I just bought warnes for my new tikka.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 965 ✭✭✭lb1981


    zeissman wrote: »
    If your T3 has the light barrel you could use the tikka optilock ringmounts.
    They are lighter than the tikka bases and rings and still have the plastic inserts to protect your scope.
    I have them on my sako with a 50mm scope and they are very neat.
    They can be hard to get though.
    Griffen Hawe has them and they are great to deal with.


  • Registered Users Posts: 79 ✭✭Cupid__Stunt


    I intended getting Tally light weight weight mounts for my Tikka, I put warne cz mounts on it over a year ago, didn't have warne tikka mounts but the cz are lower and fitted grand.. close to 400 shots, 4 plane trips and dogs abuse later I've never lost zero by even a click so I'm sticking with them! Not a fan of optilocks, had trouble with them before coming loose.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,188 ✭✭✭patsat


    Seems from ppl here that the warne are good and no need to spend the extra money on the optilocks? :cool:


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 258 ✭✭silverfox1


    You won't have a bother if you go with the warne pat. They are a great job.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,500 ✭✭✭tac foley


    I don't have a Tikka or a SAKO, but I do have six rifles/carbines over in Oregon - all of which have Warne mounts of one kind or another, and three here in yUK with Warne mounts.

    The oldest are about fourteen years old, and are of the quick-release style so that the scope can quickly be changed for another to do a different job.

    I LIKE Warne stuff - add to that that a pal of mine works in the Tualatin factory....not, of course, that that little snippet has anything to do with it.

    Warne are great value for money, but it is my opinion [only] that when you have a gun that only takes one type and style of mounts, like the Tikka or SAKO, and the factory makes them, they are always going to have a premium price. I was looking at the cost of rings and mounts for another rifle [that I don't have] in last month's 'Gun Mart' - the Sauer 202 GTI - and was horrifed to see that the mounts alone cost over £500.

    tac


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 965 ✭✭✭lb1981


    That really is getting up on your back Tac :eek:,good thread this one with plenty of different experiences and opinions


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,500 ✭✭✭tac foley


    lb1981 wrote: »
    That really is getting up on your back Tac :eek:,good thread this one with plenty of different experiences and opinions

    Huh?

    What did I say?

    tac


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 965 ✭✭✭lb1981


    tac foley wrote: »
    Huh?



    500 notes for a set of mounts,off the wall some lads scopes dont cost that much


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,188 ✭✭✭patsat


    So I am gonna go with the warne mounts, they seem to keep everyone happy!

    Next question is what height? It's a t3 lite and I will be mounting a 30mm tube with a 50 mm objective??


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 258 ✭✭silverfox1


    medium should do you grand.


  • Registered Users Posts: 83 ✭✭palo


    Hello Patsat.

    Have a look at the One pice DNZ mount I have one on my T3 and find them very good also I have a DNZ 30mm high mount matt black for sale if you are intrested.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,188 ✭✭✭patsat


    Palo what height is your dmz mount and what scope have you mounted? Could you post a pic of what you have mounted for me to see the clearance??


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,279 ✭✭✭4200fps


    Well patsat, not many do it as they don't have the tool or know its advised but its supposed to be best to torque the base and rings to 25inch-lbs which is specification for most mounts depending on metals used instead of applying your own force. Its supposed to be best practice as it will give the best performance from your rifle also it only applies the correct amount of force to tighten and wont allow you to over tighten. Torque heads are well worth their money. Most mount manufactures sell them


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,188 ✭✭✭patsat


    Well thanks for all your advice, I eventually went with a DNZ one piece aluminium mount.

    Came across one for sale on here and did a fair bit of research on the mount through the internet and couldn't find a user on any forum that wasn't happy with them.

    That and the fact that they aluminium so keeping with the light weight nature of the rifle :cool:

    Scope mounted now but college commitments means no shooting for another month or 2 :(


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